Newsletter
June 17, 2024 – July 18, 2024
E-Span-Ya
Rioja. Catalonia. Galicia. Euskadi.
Coonay Monopole Clásico
2018 Rioja Blanco ‘Monopole Clásico’ (C.V.N.E.)
Sale Price $21.99 – $224.30 case of twelve
This is the second time we have featured Cune’s 2018 Monopole Clásico, but it’s a wine worth returning to. A solid reduction in price is an added bonus. This white Rioja starts its life like any other, but one key difference—a small amount of Manzanilla sherry is added during maturation—reveals whole other facets of flavor. Be patient as it may take a little time to open up, but once it does you’ll be rewarded with a deep and savory white with flavors of apple, walnuts, dried herbs, and a lingering salty finish. A fine match for a roasted swordfish with olives.
Coonay Reserva
2017 Rioja Reserva (C.V.N.E.)
Sale Price $21.99 – $224.30 case of twelve
Cune’s 2017 Reserva is another wine we just can’t let go of. This is classic, old-school red Rioja from a vintage Cune rated as ‘excellent’. Made with 85% Tempranillo, the rest is a blend of Garnacha, Graciano, and Mazuelo. Two years of maturation in both French and American oak followed by a few years resting in bottle have brought this wine to its peak. The fine cherry and pomegranate fruit are complemented by aromas of sandalwood, earth, and spice, while supple tannins carry through the finish with thrilling precision. Excellent alongside a grilled rack of lamb.
Muga’s Crianza
2018 Rioja Crianza ‘El Andén de la Estación’ (Muga)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
The Rioja train continues. After our earlier feature of Muga’s excellent 2019 Rioja Crianza we had the opportunity to buy the previous vintage for an even better price, a deal we took without hesitation. The blend of 70% Tempranillo and 30% Garnacha spends 14 months in neutral oak, enhancing the lively plum and black cherry fruit with espresso and savory spices. Great with burgers and other grilled meats.
The Sparkling Heart of Penedès
2018 Brut Reserva ‘Corpinnat’ (Llopart)
Sale Price $21.99 – $237.49 case of twelve
Nearly all Spanish sparkling wine is called Cava and is produced in Catalonia. For decades millions of cases of cheap government-subsidized Cava flooded export markets. Eventually eight small producers of quality Catalan sparkling wine banded together, rose up against the industrial producers, and replaced the designation Cava with Corpinnat, an amalgamation of Catalan words meaning ‘heart of Penedès’. These producers use native grapes from their own vineyards, age their wines longer, and farm organically. Llopart’s 2018 Brut Reserva is a gorgeous sparkling wine with zesty stone fruit and a long, crisp, dry flavor. This clearly stands out from the Cava crowd and is still great value in its category. Salut!
Albariño
2023 Viño da Terra de Barbanza e Iria Albariño (Boal de Arousa)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
It’s becoming difficult to find Galician Albariño that excites, but this month we succeeded. The 2023 Boal de Arousa is flinty and fresh with peachy fruit and a dry finish. A treat with scallops.
Just Say Txakolina
2023 Getariako Txakolina (Txomin Etxaniz)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Txakoli is having a moment. Despite the region, producer names, and grape varieties (in this case Hondarrabi Zuri with a splash of Hondarrabi Beltza) all being rather difficult to pronounce, demand continues to rise for the spritzy whites and rosés from Spain’s northern Basque country. Txomin Etxaniz’ 2023 white is lively, zesty, and seriously refreshing. The flavors of crisp green apple, lime leaf, and salt coupled with subtle effervescence make this a perfect aperitif on a hot day, and a no-brainer to pair with oysters, ceviche, or anchovies.
Listed prices are honored through July 18th, 2024. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 48, No. 7
Organic Southern French Rosés
It’s no surprise that our favorite rosés come from sun-soaked Southern France. This month we have a new favorite from Nîmes and a classic from beautiful Les Baux.
2023 Costières de Nîmes Rosé (Château L’Ermite d’Auzan)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
L’Ermite d’Auzan is an organic and biodynamic property in Costières de Nîmes. This zesty, dry blend of Cinsault and Grenache is perfect for couscous and salad.
2023 Les Baux de Provence Rosé (Mas de Gourgonnier)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Mas de Gourgonnier is a picture-perfect estate in Les Baux, one of Provence’s most beautiful valleys. They were a pioneer in organic viticulture in France and have made consistently delicious wines for decades. Their 2023 is a full-flavored, textured rosé with peachy fruit and a peppery finish. Great with grilled fish and a fennel salad.
Valmaggiore
2020 Nebbiolo d’Alba ‘Valmaggiore’ (Sandrone)
Sale Price $41.99 – $428.30 case of twelve
Just 15 miles south of Barolo in the Roero district is the Valmaggiore vineyard, a steep sandy hill planted exclusively to Nebbiolo. Several great Barolo producers have competed for years to secure parcels of Valmaggiore. Sandrone negotiated over eight years with 40 different owners to secure enough of this vineyard to be able to produce enough to market commercially. They did not do this to make a Barolo clone or a second wine. This south-facing vineyard produces its own style of Nebbiolo with exquisite perfume, lovely cherry and strawberry fruit, and smooth, youthful tannins. 2020 is a beauty. An excellent choice with mushroom risotto.
Really Rosso
2020 Rosso di Montalcino (Podere Brizio)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Brunello di Montalcino from an excellent vintage is a rare treat that should be at least ten years old. But a good Rosso di Montalcino, which uses the exact same grapes from the exact same vineyard area, can provide a delicious wine for a fraction of the cost and which can be enjoyed much earlier. Podere Brizio’s 2020 Rosso is one such great value. This has ripeness and depth with gentle tannins framing the generous fruit. Have this lovely Tuscan red with a pork roast, polenta, and asparagus.
Rebholz
2021 Pfalz Weisser Burgunder Trocken (Ökonomierat Rebholz)
Sale Price $29.99 – $305.90 case of twelve
There are dozens of great Riesling producers in Germany, some whose bottles soar into prices over a hundred dollars. Rebholz is one of these producers. But we have become enchanted by their Weisser Burgunder, which like other Rebholz wines is so sleek, long, and dry that we wonder how they achieve this obvious house style. The answer is in their organic vineyards, where they work to produce pristine grapes and harvest at perfect physiological ripeness. We have returned to the 2021 because it sold out once before, it was still available, and it’s truly memorable and delicious. A great wine for shellfish.
Occhipinti
2022 Terre Siciliane Bianco ‘SP68’ (Occhipinti)
Sale Price $29.99 – $305.90 case of twelve
Arianna Occhipinti is an autograph-signing star of Sicilian viticulture. Her wines grace wine lists all over the world and we lucky retailers grab whatever crumbs are left behind. Fortunately, the crumbs are delicious too. This month we have a few cases of her 2022 SP68 Bianco. This wholeheartedly natural blend of Muscat and Albanello is a charmingly light (just 11%) white and will be a lively aromatic match with grilled fish or a pasta with anchovies.
Le Grand St. Vincent
2023 Touraine Sauvignon ‘Le Grand St. Vincent’ (Les Vignerons des Coteaux Romanais)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
The hilltop Loire Valley village of Sancerre is literally in the catbird seat of the Sauvignon Blanc-crazy world. Fortunately, there are pleasing and less expensive alternatives. The Cave Cooperative in the village of St. Romain sur Cher makes our best-selling French Sauvignon. The 2023 is a textbook aromatic, citrusy, and dry Sauvignon. Perfect for a spring salad with asparagus and chèvre.
Solar but Satisfying
2022 Mâcon-Charnay ‘Franclieu’ (Jean Manciat)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Jean Manciat works his vineyard like it is his garden. It helps when it is directly behind his house and winery. This meticulous grower crafts exquisite Chardonnay that defies the modest appellation of Mâcon-Charnay. Jean calls this warm 2022 vintage “solar but satisfying.” We call his Franclieu rich, round, and delicious.
Specialty Foods
Hot Deals for Hot Days
Boy howdy, it’s warming up pretty fast out there, but don’t worry: we’ve got some great deals to keep your cheese budget cool. The sheer magnitude of the deals on offer is simply too great to fully explore in this limited space, but here are some highlights that aren’t to be missed.
Blackwood and Anthill (4 oz) – $19 each
(Regular Price $24)
Kris Lloyd – Australia
These fresh Australian chèvres are true works of art. Blackwood is coated with vegetable ash and wildflowers and comes with a vial of honey to pour over before serving. Anthill, perhaps Kris Lloyd’s best-known cheese, is packed with native Australian ants.
The ants have a flavor of cracked pepper and citrus fruit that pairs beautifully with the soft and creamy goat’s milk.
Brie with Black Truffle and Mascarpone – $38 per lb (Regular Price $48)
Maison de la Truffe – Paris, France
This cheese is truly packed with truffle at three percent black truffle by weight (that’s a lot). For serious truffle lovers only!
Gruyère AOP – $20 per lb (Regular Price $28)
Michael Spycher – Switzerland
This cheese has won so many awards that it should be awarded a separate award for simply having won so many awards.
Cachalot Cheddar – $18 per lb (Regular Price $28)
Mystic Cheese – Groton, CT
The whimsically whale-themed Mystic Cheese Company names all of their cheeses after these greatest of seafaring mammals. In this case, they have wisely chosen to use the French name of this noble beast and thus avoid any vulgar comparisons that the English name would have invited.
Halloumi DOC (8 oz) – $6 each
(Regular Price $8)
Dodoni – Cyprus
Get the grill out from under the porch and clean out the mess that you left for yourself from last summer, because it’s Halloumi time. This classic Mediterranean cheese for the grill is an excellent vegetarian addition to your barbecue rotation. Don’t forget a squeeze of fresh lemon on top.
Wines of the Month — June 17, 2024 through July 18, 2024
2020 Douro Red (Broadbent)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
We’ve long been fans of Broadbent’s Portuguese selections. The 2020 Douro is a hearty and smooth red that is terrific with grilled fare and strong cheeses.
2022 Chianti 'Fattoria di Scannano' (Rocca di Castagnoli)
Sale Price $11.99 – $129.49 case of twelve
This dark and flavorful Chianti is perfect for pasta dishes with ripe summer tomatoes and spicy peppers.
2023 Vinho Verde (Navalheira)
Sale Price $7.99 – $86.29 case of twelve
This new Vinho Verde is summer personified. It’s fizzy and fresh at just 10.5%. Bring on the steamers and corn.
2022 Coteaux de Béziers Blanc (Domaine Preignes
Le Vieux)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
Preignes Le Vieux is a fine dry white blend from Languedoc. This aromatic, crisp, dry wine is perfect for a seared salmon filet with lentils.
Click here to subscribe