Newsletter
February 18, 2025 – March 17, 2025
Les Contours
2021 Collines Rhodaniennes Blanc ‘Les Contours de Mairlant’ (François Villard)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
White Rhônes are a rare treat. François Villard is famed for his Condrieu, but also makes this great value blend of Marsanne and Roussanne. Its golden color indicates sweet, but on the palate it is crisp, minerally, and dry. A great match for scallops.
Small Bunches
2021 Côtes du Roussillon ‘Petites Grappes’ (Domaine d’Ansignan)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
This wine estate is brand new to the Massachusetts market and is a welcome addition. Roussillon, in the far southwest of France’s Mediterranean coast, is a rugged, mountainous landscape with plenty of old vines. Here the blend of 50/50 Carignan & Grenache is sourced from vines averaging 50 years old, with some over 100, which are dry farmed and in transition to organic viticulture. The altitude of the vineyards plus a carefully timed harvest help keep the alcohol levels at a moderate 12.5%. Whole-cluster fermentation tames Carignan’s rustic tannins, but leaves juiciness, texture, and spice, while the Grenache brings cherry and strawberry fruit. This fresh and lively red will be a good choice for grilled chicken and roasted vegetables.
Tenacious Tannat
2017 Madiran (Château Bouscassé)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
Madiran was nearly extinct in the 1950s and it wasn’t until the 1970s that the revived Tannat grape variety brought it back to commercial viability. Back in the 80s, one exuberant scribe referred to these dark wines as “no country boy, but a courtier of character.” But most Madiran needs at least five years of bottle age. Luckily, we just happen to have one here. The 2017 Château Bouscassé has the ripe tannins of Tannat but is provided with grace and perfume by Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. This is a beauty of a wine when paired with cassoulet, confit de canard, and a hearty slab of roquefort.
En Terrasses…
2022 Ventoux ‘En Terrasses’ (Domaine Durieu)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Like its next-door neighbor Gigondas, Ventoux was a breakaway subregion of the Côtes du Rhône appellation that eventually received its own AOC status. While both received their classification in the early 1970s, Gigondas quickly outpaced Ventoux in both reputation and price. But in recent years, Ventoux’s high altitude and microclimatic diversity has encouraged investment and fresh talent to continue the winemaking tradition that can be traced back to the 1st century. For now, wines from Ventoux are ridiculously affordable with Domaine Durieu’s En Terrasses as a prime example. It’s a Grenache (70%) and Syrah blend that exemplifies the juicy freshness of Ventoux. Plum-scented with black cherry fruit, this red has a charming spicy finish with whispers of licorice. At its easy price, you can add a cup into your braised short ribs and drink the rest with the dish.
Saint-Damien
2022 Gigondas ‘Vieilles Vignes’ (Saint-Damien)
Sale Price $41.99 – $428.30 case of twelve
Wine has been made in Gigondas since Roman times. The name of the village derives from the Latin Jocunditas, denoting a ’merry city.’ Sounds like a pleasant place to spend a few centuries. Gigondas was once one of the Southern Rhône’s best values, but as the wines became better known and better made, prices have risen. One producer whose wines have not skyrocketed in price is Saint-Damien. Their Vieilles Vignes blend of Grenache and Mourvèdre is a benchmark Gigondas. The 2022 is sturdy yet graceful with lovely aromas of wild herbs and a stony, dry finish. Great with a steaming skillet of shepherd’s pie.
Wicked Old Vines
2022 Châteauneuf-du-Pape ‘Cuvée Impériale’ (Domaine Raymond Usseglio)
Sale Price $84.99 – $866.90 case of twelve
The Usseglios are old timers in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and so are their vines. Father Raymond has turned over the reins to son Stéphane, whose name adorns his Lirac. This month we grabbed a few cases of their stupendous Cuvée Impériale. Only made in the best vintages from vines that are now 120 years old, this Châteauneuf-du-Pape is rich in plum and cherry fruit and powerful in tannin, yielding an incredible long finish. Keep for a decade, or, if you want to enjoy it in its youth, decant for a couple of hours and serve with a roast leg of lamb.
Listed prices are honored through March 17th, 2025. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 49, No. 3
Of the 10 Beaujolais Crus, Chiroubles claims the highest elevation. This leads to a later harvest than the other Crus and a surprisingly delicate yet complex expression of Gamay. Arnaud Combier captured plenty of charm and perfume in his 2020 Chiroubles, with raspberry, blood orange, and an ever-so-slight earthy funk. The fine dusty tannins become rounded and silky by the second glass as it continues to evolve and allure. Gorgeous with a slight chill alongside a tarte à la tomate.
It’s no coincidence that our favorite Rioja producers all seem to be located in the western part of Rioja, in a high altitude region fittingly named Rioja Alta. Here the climate is relatively cooler and the growing season shorter, resulting in bright and elegant wines that age well. Because Bodegas Sonsierra is a cooperative, their Cibeles Reserva, despite its esteemed pedigree, is available for under $20. Even more impressive is the fact that this Rioja is a Reserva, a designation that requires the wine to be aged a minimum of three years with at least a year in expensive oak barrels. At nearly a decade old, this Tempranillo has had plenty of time to integrate its tannins with its dark-berried fruit. We cannot find a Rioja Reserva that is as rich and deep for this price. It’s perfect as a glass at the end of the night or with a blue cheese lamb burger.
Rebholz is a thoroughly uncompromising organic and biodynamic winery in the Pfalz region of Germany. Almost all their wines are completely dry, a style line that runs throughout their portfolio. Their key is analyzing the grapes’ condition in each vintage and harvesting by hand only the ripest and healthiest bunches. This could mean that a wine may vary in weight from vintage to vintage, but it will still be in the Rebholz dry style. As much as we like Rebholz’s Rieslings, it is their Pinot Blancs that we consume more of. This month we negotiated a better price for this amazing mineral-driven Pinot Blanc. The 2021 Vom Muschelkalk is a wine that rivals fine French White Burgundy. Grown on a chalky soil, its subtle but persistent orchard fruit leads to a salty crispness and a long, cool, dry, flinty finish. A terrific wine for crab cakes and aioli.
2023 Terre di Chieti Pecorino (Jasci)
Look closely at this label and you’ll see a familiar name at the bottom: Hofstätter, the Alto Adige vignerons that we have featured multiple times in the last year. Looking to branch out, and inspired by a love for Riesling, they purchased and revived the Mosel’s historic Dr. Fischer estate in 2014. The Bockstein vineyard in the village of Ockfen produces aromatic and spicy Riesling with pronounced minerality thanks to the rocky blue slate soils. In the case of this delicious 2021 Kabinett, floral notes accompany the lush palate of orchard fruit and spice. The medium sweetness is quickly resolved by brisk acidity. Delicious with a spicy Thai shrimp curry. 
It’s no secret we love Dolcetto here. Much can be said about the high potential for the grape when given proper attention. That is, when it’s not treated as an afterthought next to Nebbiolo and Barbera; indeed it is often only planted in the sites where the more finicky—but also much more prized—Nebbiolo won’t ripen. While Anna Maria Abbona’s Dogliani, a DOCG unequivocally regarded as Dolcetto’s best expression, makes the case for serious, structured, and complex Dolcetto, this Langhe Dolcetto reminds us of the immense pleasures that can be found in humble and inexpensive wines made from Dolcetto. With its juicy plum fruit, violet aromas, gentle tannins, and earthy finish, it’s a great choice for just about any meal, but particularly mushroom pizza. 
We remember Marc Ollivier describing the Gras Moutons vineyard as being cold. We later learned that he meant that the Melon grapes in this vineyard took a little longer to ripen. Given the recent warm growing seasons, this has become a plus for Les Gras Moutons. The last few vintages have been delightfully energetic and crisp. The 2023 is a wonderful Muscadet with aromas of quince and mint. The finish is long and lean with a nice suggestion of sea spray. Have with oysters if you’ve got them, but superb with anything from the sea.
2024 Navarra Rosado (Azul y Garanza)
2024 Chenin Blanc ‘Petit’ (Ken Forrester)
2023 Toscana Rosso (Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona)
2023 Rioja Blanco (El Coto)