Newsletter
September 18, 2026 – October 17, 2026
The Roving Rhône
The Rhône Valley is a very generous agricultural region. Before Saint-Joseph and Châteauneuf-du-Pape became lucrative appellations, growers cultivated orchards as well as vines to supplement their income. Today, the Rhône Valley’s great grape varieties are exported and planted all over the world, producing world class bottles from a complex array of grapes.

Saint-Joseph
2022 Saint-Joseph ‘La Gloriette/Vieilles Vignes’
(Lionel Faury)
Sale Price $44.99 – $458.90 case of twelve
Producers in the Northern Rhône have staged an impressive revival in the last decade. Reds from Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage have always impressed, and Cornas now commands some of the highest prices. Comparatively, the extra acreage in Saint-Joseph provides a more accessible Northern Rhône Syrah. Even though all red Saint-Joseph is made with Syrah, it is best to find a producer with old vines within the original boundaries of the appellation. The vines in Lionel Faury’s La Gloriette were planted between 1937 and 1976. His 2022 has glorious plum and stone aromas along with a smooth ripeness and gorgeous tannins. Try this great Syrah with a grilled leg of lamb studded with garlic.

Tablas Creek
2023 Patelin de Tablas Rouge (Tablas Creek Vineyard)
Sale Price $23.99 – $244.70 case of twelve
One of the crown jewels in importer Robert Haas’ portfolio is the great Southern Rhône selections from the Perrin family’s Château de Beaucastel, which is well known for cultivating all 13 of the allowable grape varieties that can go into Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Together they birthed an idea to start a winery in California with cuttings from Beaucastel. It took longer than expected due to quarantines of the vines, but when they were lifted the vines thrived in Paso Robles, and so did a lively nursery business for these top-quality Rhône vines. This month we luckily received a price break on their entry-level Rhône blend Patelin de Tablas. This 2023 mix of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Counoise is a generous beefy red that will be excellent with BBQ and strong cheeses.
Presqu’ile
2022 Santa Barbara Syrah (Presqu’ile)
Sale Price $21.99 – $224.30 case of twelve
One quality that we like about Syrah is that in the right hands it can produce a wine of character with relatively low alcohol. The Saint-Joseph on this page is a full 13.5%, but Presqu’ile’s 2022 Santa Barbara Syrah is a spry 12.2%. This leads to charming aromas, lively fruit, and mild tannins. This lovely red will benefit from a slight chill and can be enjoyed with fish.

Mégaphone
2023 Ventoux Rouge ‘Mégaphone’ (Famille Brunier)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
Another great family in Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the Bruniers of Vieux-Télégraphe. Instead of heading to California they have expanded into Ventoux and the Vaucluse. Their Mégaphone red is a hearty Grenache and Syrah blend that rivals many a Châteauneuf. The 2023 is a ripe and ready wine that will pair well with a Middle Eastern spread of skewers, dips, and olives.

Vaucluse
2023 Vaucluse Rouge ‘Pigeoulet’ (Famille Brunier)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Pigeoulet Rouge is a tour of Southern Rhône red grapes. This spicy blend of Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Cinsault, and Mourvèdre is a great wine for burgers and late summer’s ripe tomatoes.
2023 Vaucluse Blanc ‘Pigeoulet’ (Famille Brunier)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 per bottle
While we have a history with the Pigeoulet Rouge, this is our first foray into the Blanc. This blend hinges on the Clairette variety which translates into ‘light white.’ Its freshness is augmented by the weightier Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, and Vermentino. All in all a delicious blend with floral aromas plus pear fruit and a crisp, lively finish.
Listed prices are honored through October 17th, 2026. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 50, No. 10
Riesling-Roter-Grüner-Muscat Repeat
2025 Wagram Gemischter Satz (Soellner)
Sale Price $21.99 – $224.30 case of twelve
Gemischter Satz originated as an easygoing white blend made within Vienna to be served in its taverns. The Soellner winery is in Wagram just to the west of Vienna. They are biodynamic and are known as something of a specialist of Roter Veltliner. This month we have their incredibly fresh single vineyard Gemischter Satz. The grapes for this wine were all harvested, pressed, and vinified together on the same day. It’s light, fruity, spicy, and delicious. Have with a sautéed sole and new potatoes.

The Heart of the Cheverny
2022 Cour-Cheverny (Le Petit Chambord/
François Cazin)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Greater Cheverny is allowed to plant a wide array of Loire Valley red and white grapes, but in 11 communes at the heart of Cheverny an old grape called Romorantin makes an interesting white called Cour-Cheverny. As a young wine it’s relatively neutral, but after a few years it develops into a rich and textured wine with real character. This 2022 from Cazin soaks the palate with ripe fruits and a ton of mouthfeel. A lovely wine for grilled swordfish and roasted leeks.
The Mysterious Abruzzese
2024 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo (Tiberio)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Riccardo Tiberio was working as the export manager for another winery when he came upon a vineyard of 60-year-old Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. This vineyard made him decide to start his own winery. He knew that true Trebbiano d’Abruzzo was a rarity and should not be confused with other grapes named Trebbiano, of which there are several. He bought the vineyard in 2000 and his first vintage was 2004. The accolades rolled in. The family continued to plant more vines and is now also known for Pecorino and Montepulciano, but it is this Trebbiano that made the winery. The 2024 has a sharp penetrating aroma and crisp concentration, making it perfect for a spicy seafood stew.

Marie Colombard
2025 Pays d’Oc Colombard ‘Marie’ (Maison Ventenac)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
Colombard has received almost every backhanded compliment a grape can. It’s a workhorse (i.e. high yields)… it’s good in a blend… you can distill it... but when planted in the right spot and with yields kept low, Colombard can produce a pleasantly fruity Sauvignon Blanc-like white with a lively salty finish. The 2025 from Maison Ventenac delivers this with a bit of citrusy fruit and a gentle aroma. A lovely salad and chèvre white.

After More than 40 Harvests Jean-Paul Brun is Un-retired
2022 Fleurie (Jean-Paul Brun/Terres Dorées)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
2022 Morgon Côte du Py ‘Javernières’
Sale Price $21.99 – $224.30 case of twelve
When we met Jean-Paul Brun he was making some of the best Beaujolais from vineyards in the Bas-Beaujolais, an area left off most maps of the region because it was not considered good enough to be a Beaujolais Village. He always favored a traditional Burgundian vinification rather than the quicker carbonic style of regular Beaujolais. Eventually he had enough money to buy vineyards in some of the best Cru of Beaujolais.
We had heard that Jean-Paul was bought out as he neared mandatory retirement age in France. But we just found out that he is still at it in the vines and the winery advising the new owners. This just as we found two great 2022 wines from the 40th harvest of his adored Terres Dorées.
The Fleurie is a charmer with its violet pastille aroma and its berry fruit. The Morgon is a larger wine with grip, tannin, and structure. Both would be superb with a roast chicken and a gratin.

Good Old Aligoté
2023 Bourgogne Aligoté (François Carillon)
Sale Price $27.99 – $285.50 case of twelve
In the early 1800s growers in Burgundy were advised to rip out their Aligoté. Given that so little remains this advice must have been taken. Yet now Aligoté has almost achieved respectability. Why else would growers like Jobard and Carillon persist in producing it? Last month’s insanely expensive Aligoté from Jobard was also insanely good. This month we have a moderately expensive version from François Carillon, who truly makes his living producing Puligny-Montrachet. The Carillons cultivate the superior Jaune doré clone of Aligoté whose vines are over 50 years old. Some of the vines are in Puligny-Montrachet along with some in the neighboring village of Corpeau. They treat this wine just like a Premier Cru Puligny with some aging in barrel. In 2023 the results were excellent. This crisp, lively wine has beautiful lime and peach fruit and a refreshing finish.
Pagani
2021 Zinfandel ‘Pagani Ranch’ (Ridge)
Sale Price $39.99 – $407.90 case of twelve
Zinfandel master Ridge has produced a wine from Pagani Ranch fruit every vintage since 1991, but the vineyard itself is much older. First planted around the turn of the 20th century, it’s still in the hands of the fourth generation of the Pagani family. Though mostly planted to Zinfandel, the vineyard also has small amounts of Petite Sirah and Alicante Bouschet, a blend which is reflected in the wine. Pagani is further south than Ridge’s acclaimed Geyserville and Lytton Springs vineyards, but it is actually a much cooler site thanks to the fog that lingers well into the day. This allows them to harvest quite late (typically well into October), giving an exceptional balance of ripe fruit, fresh acidity, and complex flavor development. Though the 2022 and 2023 vintages are now sold out at the winery, they had a little extra of the excellent 2021 which made its way to Massachusetts and into our hands for a great price. Packed with brambly fruit, dark chocolate, and spice, it’s not lacking in structure; Zinfandel’s lavish fruit is matched by fresh acidity, silky tannins, and a long lingering finish. Excellent with steak au poivre.
Specialty Foods
Serious Cheeses are Back!
It’s that time of year when all of our favorite alpine cheeses emerge from their protective caves, spread their wings and… travel by ship to Boston. We are always excited to see these first seasonal cheeses knowing that Raclette and baked Vacherin follow closely behind!
Rahmtaler Reserve
(Gourmino) – $26 per lb
Rahmtaler is a unique cheese from the Gourmino collective and master cheesemakers Marlies Zaugg and Bernhard Meier. A variation on traditional Emmentaler, this is made with full-fat milk rather than skim and aged for eighteen months in the Reichenbach Mountain bunkers. It is full-bodied, rich, and buttery.
Beaufort 2 year Alpage AOC
(Rodolphe Le Meunier) – $48 per lb
Renowned French affineur Rodolphe Le Meunier brings us this benchmark example of the most noble of alpine cheeses. Made exclusively with raw, summer milk from cows that graze above 1,500 meters, Rodolphe ages this version for two years to bring out its intensity and complexity. This bold cheese begins with a deep, brothy flavor and moves into a briny finish.

Comté 36 month AOC
(Rodolphe Le Meunier) – $46 per lb
France’s most famous alpine cheese is commonly sold as a young version aged between 6 months and a year. Two years of aging is a treat, bringing out a savory side to match the creaminess and fruitiness. But after three years of aging, Comté develops incredible layers of intensity and complexity not found in the younger versions. Dense and intense, nutty and fudgy, and with the satisfying crunch and texture of tyrosine crystals.
Wines of the Month — September 18, 2026 through October 17, 2026
2024 Cabernet Sauvignon (Les Jamelles)
Sale Price $10.99 – $118.69 case of twelve
This southern French Cabernet is a textbook example with smooth dark fruit and ripe round tannins. Great for burgers and tacos.

2024 Jongieux Blanc (Carrel & Senger)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
Fondue season is on the way and this dry white from Savoie will be ideal with melted cheese and pickles. Made from Jacquère from the cru village of Jongieux, this is an excellent value. Also fine with charcuterie and salads.
2025 Douro Branco ‘Lavra’ (Lavradores de Feitoria)
Sale Price $10.99 – $118.69 case of twelve
Portugal continues to make fascinating wines. This dry white from the Douro is mostly Malvasia blended with some Gouveio and Síria. Its lovely perfume and crisp fruit are great with cod.

2023 Douro Tinto ‘Lavra’ (Lavradores de Feitoria)
Sale Price $10.99 – $118.69 case of twelve
The tinto from Lavradores is a ‘greatest hits’ blend of Portuguese Douro grapes. Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, and Touriga Nacional comprise this smooth dense red. Excellent with a braised lamb dish.

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