Newsletter
January 19, 2025 – February 14, 2025
Many Flavors of France
Winter is the time to cook some of the rich and winey stews of France and beyond. Here are some fun wines to lead the way.
Brocard Chablis
2023 Chablis ‘Sainte Claire’ (Jean-Marc Brocard)
Sale Price $22.99 – $234.50 case of twelve
Our best-value Chablis has returned. Brocard reliably produces delicious, well-priced Chablis, and this iteration is no exception. Somewhat of a ripe vintage, the 2023 may satisfy fans of textured, unoaked Bourgogne Blanc more than Chablis-purists who are after the thrill of a lean and racy wine, but Brocard deftly maintains enough acidity, minerality, and zesty citrus to balance the ripe peach fruit and keep the finish fresh and lively. A great match for lemon butter baked cod with garlicky greens.
Frizant de Daumas Gassac
2022 Extra Brut Rosé Frizant (Mas de Daumas Gassac)
Sale Price $19.99 – $215.89 case of twelve
Mas de Daumas Gassac has been titled ‘the Lafite of the Languedoc’ for their serious and age-worthy red wine, but they also fool around in the cellar making this lively frizant rosé. Curiously, this is made mostly from Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s made with the Charmat method of fermenting in stainless steel boxes and bottling it while sparkling to preserve its freshness. Despite the froth we consider it a serious food wine. It is Extra Brut, meaning it’s drier than expected, and carries some sneaky tannins. Try this with a seafood stew and a side of garlic and chili-braised winter greens.
Le Domaine Baudry
2022 Chinon ‘Le Domaine’ (Domaine Bernard Baudry)
Sale Price $21.99 – $224.30 case of twelve
The Baudry family is unarguably one of the best producers of Chinon. Like many Chinon producers they make some wines for early drinking and a couple of site-specific wines that reward aging. While capable of both, their ‘Le Domaine’ cuvée is best to drink within 3 to 5 years of vintage. The 2022 is an earthy, savory delight with the barest of fruit and the gentlest of tannins. A lovely wine to have with a mushroom bourguignon.
Lalande de Pomerol
2019 Lalande de Pomerol 'Plaisir de Siaurac'
(Château Siaurac)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
The pricy Bordeaux appellation of Pomerol is more talked about than consumed. Those looking for a Pomerol experience to drink with their steak frites are much more likely to pull the cork out of a bottle of its satellite appellation, Lalande de Pomerol. Plaisir de Siaurac is pure Merlot, grown on the same chalky plateau that extends into Pomerol. Their 2019 is juicy and fresh with glorious tannins and a cool, dry finish.
Janasse Janasse
2023 Principauté d’Orange Viognier
(Domaine de la Janasse)
Sale Price $29.99 – $305.90 case of twelve
Here is a wine that knocked our heads and minds back. The vines Janasse uses for its Viognier were sourced years ago from Condrieu. The past couple of vintages of this have been incredible. This is a super-rich white wine that impresses with its power and finesse. The exotic peachy and floral aromas of Viognier arrive with force. The palate has amazing fruit, body, and a lengthy, ripe finish. Try this with spicy scallops in a Thai-style broth.
2021 Côtes du Rhône Villages ‘Terre d’Argile’
(Domaine de la Janasse)
Sale Price $29.99 – $305.90 case of twelve
Our long-time favorite Côtes du Rhône from Janasse has been the Terre d’Argile. This vineyard is a stone’s throw from one of their Châteauneuf-du-Pape sites. This cuvée differs in that it is not a Grenache-dominant red. Instead, it’s equal parts Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Carignan. While still on the young side the 2021 is beginning to open up. Serve this with lamb chops.
Listed prices are honored through February 14th, 2025. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 49, No. 2
Speziale
2023 Verduno Pelaverga (Fratelli Alessandria)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
Alessandria is one of only ten producers who make Verduno Pelaverga, a resurrected old variety native to northern Barolo. Wine made from Pelaverga needs no aging and is enjoyed for its fresh and spicy flavor. This 2023 is gorgeous stuff, with lovely raspberry fruit and a delightfully spicy finish. Great with a mushroom risotto.
Red Sauce Southern Italy
2022 Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Rosso (Mastroberardino)
Regular Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Red Sauce Price $15.99 – $163.10 case of twelve
The best Italian tomatoes grow in volcanic soil, so what better red wine to have with red sauce than one made from grapes grown around Mount Vesuvius? Mastroberardino’s Vesuvian red is made of the native Piedirosso grape, and it delivers a darkly fruited and ripely tannic red that is ideal for pizza and pasta.
2021 Primitivo ‘Pilùna’ (Castello Monaci)
Regular Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Red Sauce Price $15.99 – $163.10 case of twelve
Moving further down the peninsula is the heel of Italy, where Primitivo thrives. Castello Monaci’s Pilùna is a full-bodied, fruity red that is perfect for stuffed shells or manicotti with sauteéd broccoli rabe doused in a warm tomato sauce.
2021 Aglianico del Vulture (Grifalco)
Regular Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Red Sauce Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Aglianico seems to have everything except marketability. This incredible grape beautifully expresses its volcanic soil and delivers full-flavored roasted fruit and inspired tannins. In Grifalco’s case, maybe they should just call it Aglianico and leave off the Vulture. Nonetheless, a great wine. Wonderful for a lasagna.
Dolcetto Duet
2023 Dolcetto d’Alba ‘Coste & Fossati’
(G.D. Vajra)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
Dolcetto doesn’t pay the bills in a Piedmontese winery (that would be Barolo), but it is an insurance policy. Dolcetto thrives in cooler higher elevation vineyards where it ripens a full month earlier than Nebbiolo. So, if the Nebbiolo harvest is compromised, producers still have something to sell. Vajra does make a basic-level Dolcetto, but they take the grape seriously enough to produce this deeply colored, refined blend from two superior vineyards. One vineyard provides a fruity component and the other delivers the tannic structure. The result is a gorgeous Dolcetto with aromatic richness and a mouth-filling vigor of deep, dark fruit. This is a superbly versatile food wine.
Heritage Zin
2021 Zinfandel ‘Heritage’ (Dry Creek Vineyard)
Sale Price $23.99 – $244.70 of twelve
One of our favorite producers in Sonoma also happens to have a personal connection to us. Dry Creek Vineyard’s founder David Stare grew up in Boston and attended MIT in the 60s, and he supposedly did a brief stint here in our early days. But it was his travels to Europe, especially the Loire Valley, that inspired him to make a career in the wine industry. He moved his family to Sonoma and founded Dry Creek Vineyard in 1972. They are considered pioneers in the Dry Creek Valley appellation, and are now one of the few remaining family-owned and operated wineries in the area. Their Zinfandel, complemented by small amounts of Petit Sirah and Carignan, is rich, dark, and spicy. We stocked up before a price increase, so this will be the last chance to enjoy this excellent Zinfandel for under $25.
Wine Cask Discount Policy
These are our EVERYDAY discounts.
15% off of a whole case. This reflects the case price listed for still wines on the first three pages of the newsletter.
10% off of a mixed case. This applies to all wines
except 1.5L and 3L sizes.
Wines of the Month (four on last page), sparkling wines,
and fortified wines (Port, Sherry, Vermouth, etc.)
receive a 10% discount.
Trocken January
2021 Riesling Trocken (Rebholz)
Sale Price $21.99 – $224.30 case of twelve
Dry January means only drinking dry wines, right? So this is a good time to remind you that not all Riesling is sweet. Rebholz’ Trocken (meaning ‘dry’ in German winespeak) is a fine example of the capability of the grape to make elegant and very dry white wine. With just 2 grams per Liter of residual sugar, this organically grown Riesling from the Pfalz is taut and zippy, with flavors and aromas of grapefruit, lime, and minerals. This is a stellar price for one of our favorite German producers, and a great wine for sushi.
Sweet Jurançon
2021 Jurançon Moelleux (Clos Lapeyre)
Sale Price $9.99 per 375mL – $101.90 case of twelve
Loosely translated from the label, this delicious sweet white wine from Jurançon is a product of the foot of the Pyrénées, grown in stony clay and silex soils in a hot and humid climate. Still, it is organic and biodynamic. The late-harvested Gros et Petit Manseng reach super maturity from the sun and the winds from the south. Thanks to its exotic fruity aromas it is ideal as an apéritif, but don’t forget to serve it with fruit-based desserts or for any moment of conviviality. We agree wholeheartedly, plus it’s a totally delicious value in dessert wine. Salut.
Specialty Foods
Raclette: It Sounds Fancier Than It Is
Raclette de Savoie $21 per lb
Paccard – Haut Savoie, France
Whitney $26 per lb
Jasper Hill – Greensboro, Vermont
Black Truffle $32 per lb
Jumi – Bern, Switzerland
Melted cheese is the best. It is always the best part of any dish graced by its presence. Without cheese, pizza is just bread and macaroni & cheese is, well, just macaroni. If only there was a meal that sounded fancy, but was just an excuse to cut out all the other junk and enjoy an unabashed pile of hot, melted cheese.… Fortunately for us all, raclette comes to the rescue!
This traditional alpine cheese has a high moisture content, making it perfect for melting. The name raclette comes from the French racler (“to scrape”), as a half wheel is traditionally melted on a specialized grill and the melted portion scraped directly onto a plate piled with accompaniments. Even if you don’t have a raclette grill, you can still make a meal of raclette at home.
Melt slices in the oven (a cast-iron pan works great, but a baking sheet will do) over roasted potatoes, cruciferous vegetables, gherkins, charcuterie, and/or toasted bread. Frankly all that stuff is optional; you could just eat the cheese! We recommend at least a half pound per person, but you may want to err on the side of a little extra. The cheese is the main course, after all.
Paccard’s Raclette de Savoie is a staple with its classic rich and creamy flavor profile. Whitney, the local entry from Vermont’s Jasper Hill Farm,
is nutty and has a sweeter, creamy finish. Finally, Jumi’s black truffle raclette is generously packed with slices of earthy and aromatic black truffle, flavors which work wonderfully with the cheese. All are cut to order at the deli, with a one pound minimum per order. We can even slice it for you so it’s ready to melt!
Wines of the Month — January 19, 2025 through February 14, 2025
2023 Périgord Rouge (Mary Taylor/Fabien Castaing)
Sale Price $11.99 – $129.49 case of twelve
This zesty organic red from southwest France exudes generous warmth. Perfect for burgers and pizza.
2023 Picpoul de Pinet (Saint-Peyre)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
Picpoul de Pinet makes fine, underappreciated whites from the Languedoc. The 2023 Saint-Peyre is a steal.
2023 Nero d’Avola (La Calla)
Sale Price $10.99 – $118.69 case of twelve
This Sicilian red is made from a combination of fresh and semi-dried grapes. Its hearty flavors make it ideal for a bean stew with chorizo.
2022 Côtes du Rhône Réserve (Famille Perrin)
Sale Price $11.99 – $129.49 case of twelve
Perrin’s 2022 Côtes du Rhône rouge is a terrific value blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Syrah. Have this hearty Southern French red with a lamb stew.
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