Newsletter
April 15, 2018 – May 14, 2018
Pinks, Orange, and Green
We boldly predict that Spring will have arrived by the time you receive this newsletter (even in Maine). Hence we have forged ahead with Rosé from France and Spain and Bulgaria! And a Semi-Sparkling Orange Wine from Greece!! And our favorite Vinho Verde from Portugal!!! Welcome to Spring, New England style.
Rosado
2017 Navarra Rosado (Viña Zorzal)
Sale Price $8.99 – $91.70 case of twelve
Garnacha Rosado from Navarro in Northern Spain has had a long history well before the recent fashion for rosé from all over. Zorzal’s version is dry and full-flavored and it finishes smooth. Cherry and plum fruit combine with subtle spice and tannin. Terrific for spicy seafood and vegetable-laden rice dishes.
The Greek Freak
2016 Paleokerisio ‘Joannina’ (Domaine Glinavos)
Sale Price $15.99 per 500ml – $163.10 case of twelve
An easy way to describe ‘orange’ wine is: white wine that is macerated and fermented similarly to red wine. But when you add in a bit of effervescence, you enter into even newer (or maybe older) territory. Paleokerisio is a traditional Semi-Sparkling Orange wine, with a lively spritz and a complex mix of fruit and spice. This Greek Freak is a good bet with spinach pie, shrimp and pasta, or a dish involving bottarga.
Alexandra of Thrace
2017 Thracian Valley Rosé (Alexandra)
Sale Price $9.99 – $101.90 case of twelve
This was a surprise hit last year. Who knew that Bulgarian rosé was ready to challenge Provence’s Bandol? The 2017 Alexandra of Thrace Rosé is a spicy mix of Mourvàdre and Grenache that will fare well with grilled meats and Greek-style salads with olives and feta.
Armas de Guerra
2017 Bierzo Rosado (Armas de Guerra)
Sale Price $9.99 – $101.90 case of twelve
This is now firmly established as a Wine Cask favorite rosé. Armas de Guerra’s dry Mencia Rosado is a perfect match with spring vegetables like asparagus and even better when shellfish is involved. This watermelon and peach scented rosé is brisk and friendly.
Le Poussin Rose
2017 Vin de France Rosé ‘Le Poussin Rose’ (Caves d’Esclans/Sacha Lichine)
Sale Price $9.99 – $101.90 case of twelve case of twelve
Little embellishment is needed to promote this eminently popular pink. Once again the Poussin Rose is a delicate dry rosé with freshness and verve.
Verde
2016 Vinho Verde (Muralhas de Moncao)
Sale Price $8.99 – $91.70 case of twelve
Without a doubt this is our favorite Vinho Verde. The Muralhas de Moncao is made from Alvarinho on the Minho River in Northern Portugal. With its extra dose of concentration and an added level of dryness (for Vinho Verde), this wine enters the realm of the serious at a price that is absurd. Ginger-laced fruit and mineral dryness are hallmark contributors to this lean and long dry white.
Listed prices are honored through May 14th, 2018. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 42, No. 5
Beaune Cyclone
2015 Beaune Ier Cru ‘Gràves’ (Louis Jadot) Sale
Price $50.00 NET – $300.00 case of six
2015 Beaune Ier Cru ‘Bressandes’ (Louis Jadot)
Sale Price $50.00 NET – $300.00 case of six
2015 Beaune Ier Cru ‘Theurons’ (Louis Jadot)
Sale Price $50.00 NET – $300.00 case of six
2015 Beaune Ier Cru ‘Toussaints’ (Louis Jadot)
Sale Price $50.00 NET – $300.00 case of six
2015 Beaune Ier Cru ‘Vignes Franches’ (Louis Jadot)
Sale Price $50.00 NET – $300.00 case of six
2015 Beaune Ier Cru ‘Boucherottes’ (Louis Jadot)
Sale Price $50.00 NET – $300.00 case of six
2015 Beaune Ier Cru ‘Chouacheux’ (Louis Jadot)
Sale Price $50.00 NET – $300.00 case of six
We went a little crazy with the Louis Jadot Beaunes, but when an excellent vintage comes along Jadot reliably delivers impressive, ageworthy red Burgundies. All of these 2015s feature gorgeous fruit, ripe tannins, rocky minerality, and lively finishes. What is available is what we have in stock. First come first served.
Le Couroulu
2015 Vacqueyras (Domaine Le Couroulu)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
We really like the 2015 vintage in the Rhone Valley, and the periodicals have announced that the 2016s are even better. But the problem is that, due to currency issues, the 2016s are going to be more expensive. So we are looking to secure our favorite 2015s while we can. The Le Couroulu Vacqueyras is a delicious and graceful wine with the herbal delight of garrigue, plums, and nicely framed tannins. Just right for a long-braised lamb stew.
Kraft Vouvray
2015 Vouvray (Laurent Kraft)
Sale Price $15.99 – $163.10 case of twelve
The vignerons of Vouvray have been pummeled of late with all manner of poor weather. 2015 gave some respite as they were able to harvest a decent-sized crop of ripe Chenin Blanc. A little time in bottle does a world of good for Vouvray, and this tenderly dry 2015 from Laurent Kraft is now showing beautifully. Spring-like aromas of linden flowers along with nicely weighted pear fruit lead to the classic earthy, dry Vouvray finish. Chenin and salmon is a sublime match.
Siro Pacenti Rosso
2015 Rosso di Montalcino (Siro Pacenti)
Sale Price $27.99 – $285.50 case of twelve
Montalcino has emerged as the pinnacle of Tuscan wine. Sure, Bolgheri has its cachet with the ‘international’ varietals, but Montalcino captures the soul of Sangiovese and concentrates it into an earthly essence. Siro Pacenti produces a modern version of Montalcino. The tannins are ripe not rustic; the wines have marvelous texture and lengthy fruit and mineral flavors. The 2015 Rosso di Montalcino is a silken Sangiovese with a lovely plum color and a fine line of tannins. Superb with a veal roast and mushrooms.
Gros Roussillon
2015 Còtes du Roussillon ‘GSM’ (Tessellae)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Want Big? This old vine Grenache- Syrah-Mourvàdre blend from Roussillon is a full-bodied, nicely balanced Mediterranean red with gusto. Its ripe, round fruit and spicy palate are perfect for smoky, spicy ribs and red beans.
Hilly Siena
2015 Chianti Colli Senesi (Fattoria del Cerro)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
The area around Siena and San Gimignano is as pretty as Tuscany gets. It is remarkable that this pricy real estate continues to make delicious affordable wines for us homebound tourists. The 2015 Fattoria del Cerro is a food-friendly Chianti that has ripe, cherry-scented fruit and an earthy, dry finish. Great with pappardelle and Bolognese.
Etna Bianco
2016 Etna Bianco (Pietradolce)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
That Mt. Etna is one of the most active volcanoes in the world and is in an almost constant state of activity may be a fitting analogy for today’s Italian wine scene. Etna is the place to be. Here, long under-appreciated grapes have now emerged as stars enriched by the high-elevation volcanic soils of the mountain. Those who have tried the reds made from Nerello Mascalese cannot deny their elegance and strength. This wine shows off the superb qualities of the white Carricante’s ability to drink up the volcano’s power and deliver an earthy underpinning for delicious orange and fennel flavors. Amazing with shellfish.
Birds and Flowers of Fronton
2013 Fronton ‘Cuvée Jeanne’ (Chateau Flotis)
Sale Price $14.99 - $152.90 case of twelve
If you’ve had red wine while in Toulouse, you’ve most likely drunk the wines of Fronton, the appellation only 17 miles north of the city. Perhaps you’ve even enjoyed the organic and wildly aromatic wines of Katia Garrouste at Chateau Flotis. Her ‘Cuvée Jeanne’ is made from 100 percent Negrette, the indigenous grape dominant in Fronton. Katia named the wine after her friend Jeanne Lacombe, from whom she commissioned a painting for the label. Jeanne presented six paintings. Rather than picking one, Katia decided to use all six, leaving it to us to choose. As lovely as the labels, the dark concentrated wine inside is silken in texture with blackberry fruit and brambly spice. By using ambient yeasts and foregoing fining and filtering, Katia allows the wine to express aromas that are ever shifting, one minute reminiscent of musk and soil, the next of dried roses and crushed raspberries. A great companion for seared duck breast and sautéed wild mushrooms.
Viré-Clessé
2012 Viré-Clessé ‘Cuvée E.J. Thevenet’ (Domaine de la Bongran)
Sale Price $39.99 – $407.90 case of twelve
Quite simply, this is one of the world’s best and most idiosyncratic Chardonnays. Some vintages are dry; some have a little residual sugar. They take years to ferment and they have amazing aromatics and a beautiful gold color. The 2012 Bongran is drier and richer than the equally delicious 2011, which is a tribute to the Thevenets for following the cycles of each individual vintage and guiding this wine to its fascinating destination.
Aligoté
2014 Bourgogne Aligoté (Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Rooting for the underdog has always been a delicious pursuit of ours. And Aligoté may be the ultimate underdog in Burgundy. There have been notable champions like Aubert de Villaine, whose beautiful Bouzeron increases in price every vintage. When a new vintage passes our palate, we remember that we truly enjoy the crisp yet concentrated version from Dureuil-Janthial. The 2104 is a delirious mix of flint, beeswax, quince, and apricot. Recommended with all manner of clams, cod, and haddock.
Specialty Foods
Wilde Weide Gouda $27.99 per lb
(Regular Price $29.99)
Wilde Weide is a Dutch Boerenkaas (Farmhouse Gouda) made with raw cow’s milk and aged for 15 months. Though it has plenty of rich flavors to satisfy fans of aged Gouda – brown butter, whiskey, and caramelized nuts come to mind – the finish is light, grassy, and fruity, with a subtle sweetness akin to candied pineapple. The texture is just as complex; though mildly dry and crumbly with a slight crunch from amino acid crystals, the cheese is still creamy enough to melt on the tongue. The name appropriately translates from the Dutch to “wild meadow,” evoking the lush pastures on which the farm’s cows graze, an element of terroir which is clearly expressed in the flavors and aromas.
Couët Farm Fran de Maquis $14.99 per lb
(Regular Price $15.99)
Couët Farm and Fromagerie, located in Dudley, MA, offers a range of handmade cow’s and sheep’s milk cheeses using milk from small New England family farms. Fran de Maquis is made with pasteurized cow’s milk, and each 8-ounce piece is coated in rosemary, savory, fennel seeds, and juniper berries. When young, the cheese is moist and fluffy enough to be spread. The name references its inspiration, Fleur de Maquis, which is encrusted with a similar blend of herbs that are native to the Mediterranean island of Corsica where it originated.
Gruyàre Reserve Belfaux $18.99 per lb
(Regular Price $19.99)
Gruyàre may not typify spring cheese like the previous entries, but this new offering had us too excited to leave out. Laiterie de Belfaux in the Canton of Fribourg in Switzerland is a dairy that goes above and beyond the AOP requirements for Gruyàre production by using exclusively house-produced cultures and rennet. After the traditional step of brining, the wheels are dry salted for 48 hours to encourage extra flavor development and optimum moisture levels for aging. Wheels spend around 6 weeks at the dairy before being aged for at least 10 months under the care of an expert affineur at a central aging facility. The result is a stellar example of the delicious complexity of high-quality Gruyàre, with sweet, roasty, fruity, and creamy characteristics all in perfect harmony.
Blue Ledge Farm Crottina $23.99 per lb
(Regular Price $25.99)
Blue Ledge Farm of Salisbury, VT claims that Crottina, a small bloomy rind goat’s milk cheese, is the one that first put them on the map, and that it continues to gain fans for its “classic simplicity.” The recipe allows the pure flavors of the milk to be clearly expressed in the final product. Straightforward and bright, it is a tribute to the high quality of the milk this time of year. The rind adds just a touch of earthiness and a pleasant contrast in texture to the silky interior. When ripe, this one will ooze across the plate! Each individually wrapped piece weighs about 3–4 ounces, so you won’t have a problem consuming in one sitting.
Wines of the Month — April 15, 2018 through May 14, 2018
2015 Blaye – Côtes de Bordeaux (Chateau Maine Blanc)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
Maine Blanc is not from Maine and it is not Blanc. Instead it is a dry red Bordeaux from Blaye, where in 2015 the Merlot delivered rich concentration of fruit and a firm dry finish. And it’s organic.
2017 Côtes de Thau Blanc (Le Montalus)
Sale Price $6.99 – $75.49 case of twelve
Le Montalus has returned, and once again it’s dry and delicious. This sun-soaked French white is great for a roast chicken or a seafood stew.
2016 Pays d’Hérault Rouge ‘Guilhem’ (Moulin de Gassac)
Sale Price $7.99 – $86.29 case of twelve
Moulin de Gassac is the value line from the venerable Languedoc house of Mas de Daumas Gassac. This 2016 ‘country red’ is a fresh, lively blend of Syrah, Grenache, and Carignan.
2016 Rosso Piceno ‘Tolenus’ (Cantina Numa)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
This cooperative winery in Italy’s Le Marche has produced an
amazing value in 2016. The Sangiovese/Montalcino blend has ripe, round fruit and a full, long finish. And it’s organic. Have with anything eggplant.