Newsletter
October 15, 2019 – November 14, 2019
Verdicchio
2018 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi (Andrea Felici)
Sale Price $15.99 – $163.10 case of twelve
Vernaccia
2017 Vernaccia di San Gimignano ‘Fiore’ (Montenidoli)
Sale Price $21.99 – $224.30 case of twelve
Barbera
2017 Barbera d’Asti ‘Tre Vigne’ (Vietti)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
With its stable of excellent Barolo vineyards, Vietti is good as it gets in Piedmont. But they are also consumer-friendly with their lovely Barberas. The 2017 Barbera d’Asti has surprising power and terrific crushed blackberry and juniper flavors.
Pelaverga
2018 Verduno Pelaverga (Burlotto)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Another Piedmont winery with excellent wines but small quantities is Burlotto. The rare Pelaverga is a deep, spicy red with juicy fruit and lively tannins. Have this with a braised brisket.
Aglianico
2016 Campania Aglianico (Terredora di Paolo)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Dolcetto
2018 Dolcetto d’Alba (Marengo)
Sale Price $15.99 – $163.10 case of twelve
Listed prices are honored through November 14th, 2019. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 43, No. 11
To stand at the base of the Monts Damnés vineyard in Chavignol is a eureka moment. This steep vineyard with its perfect exposure to the sun and excellent drainage allows great wines to be produced nearly every year. Thomas-Labaille has been in Chavignol for generations and makes this terrific Sauvignon Blanc for a price that is not too dear. The 2018 is ripe, rich, and round yet laden with flinty minerality buried in its long finish. 
The Chasselas grape is treated like royalty in Switzerland, while acreage in France is in severe decline. The one Loire Valley outpost for Chasselas is in the appellation of Pouilly-sur-Loire. In the 1800s growers made fortunes shipping the grapes by rail to Paris to be consumed as a table grape. The Dagueneau family still makes La Centenaire from their tiny plot of now 109-year-old Chasselas vines. The 2018 is a beauty with its spicy perfume, gorgeous mouthfeel, and long, rich finish. A great bottle for halibut and roasted squash.
We’re going to say it again: the Cuvée Prestige from Lamé Delisle Boucard is one of the best values in red wine from anywhere. At our first encounter, they poured the 1976. When we visited the winery they opened bottles from the 40s, 50s, and 60s. Almost needless to say, they drink well young and old. Every red wine lover should have stacks of this wine in the cellar. Fantastic with a roast chicken.
The rise of Languedoc wines continues apace. Various terroirs have been delineated and superior sub-regions have been isolated. Pic Saint-Loup is perhaps the top cru of the region. Terrasses du Larzac is certainly an up-and-comer. Located in the hilly western end of Languedoc, Sainte Pauline’s Clos du Serres is a smoky and peppery blend of Syrah, Cinsault, and Carignan. This is a red that will match well with a full-on cassoulet or with a simple garlicky pork roast and brussels sprouts. 
The 2017 Burgundies are now arriving and it appears to be a very good vintage for red wines and an excellent vintage for white wines. The 2017 Réserve Bourgogne Blanc from Bouchard is a classic earthy, dry French Chardonnay with a stony dryness and a hint of butterscotch in its ripe finish. Wonderful with scallops.
An hour north of Lisbon lies the appellation of Óbidos, where the two Emidio brothers have restored their family farm and winery, producing exciting wines unique to the region. Although the Arinto grape is usually seen in dry white blends throughout Portugal, they felt that the quality of their grapes warranted its own varietal wine. The result is this smooth-bodied white full of minerals, sweet ripe citrus, and grapefruit pith. Its lemony tang of a finish brings to mind a whole roasted branzino on a bed of shaved fennel.
The Côtes du Blaye lies directly across the Gironde from the Médoc, but it seems much farther away. This area was producing wine when the Médoc was still a marsh. There are actual Côtes or hillsides. Even today wines from estates like Roland La Garde have an earthy, wild flavor to them. Perhaps helped by its conversion to biodynamic winemaking, this 2015 is a hearty, structured Bordeaux with ripe, spicy tannins and a subtle yet lengthy fruitiness. This 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon blend is perfect for lamb chops and a potato gratin. 
Scheurebe is a cross between Riesling and an unknown variety developed in Germany in the early 20th century. Its popularity has (sadly) been in decline the last few decades, but through no fault of Theo Minges. His delightful Feinherb has barely perceptible sugar that delivers an aromatic and incredibly refreshing white. Flavors of grapefruit, white tea, and ginger are driven by brisk acidity to a gentle, salty-mineral finish that is quite literally lip-smacking. Perfect with fiery dandan noodles. 
The mission at Neal’s Yard Dairy is straightforward: improve British cheese. Their business model is to select, mature, and sell traditional farmhouse cheeses from the UK and Ireland. Their drive to get the best cheese possible to the consumer holds their producers to the highest possible standards. They work closely with each farm, regularly visiting to select cheeses of desired flavor profiles to bring back to London for aging. As the cheeses age, they monitor how each cheese develops over time under carefully controlled conditions. Further tastings identify batches that have the flavor profiles ideal for each international market. 
2017 Mâcon-Villages ‘La Côte Blanche’ (Cave de Lugny) 
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve