Newsletter
June 15, 2020 – July 14, 2020
Pinot Noir and Proximity
Once centered in Burgundy, Pinot Noir has proven successful in many other locations, but one might argue that the Burgundian notion of bottling wines from a single vineyard has become as influential as the grape itself. Indeed, other grapes with Pinot Noir-like qualities, planted in specific sites, are now making wines with wonderful aromas, pretty fruit and real structure.
Willamette Pinot Noir
2017 Willamette Pinot Noir (Ken Wright Cellars)
Sale Price $21.99 – $224.30 case of twelve
Ken Wright’s most highly regarded wines are his numerous single vineyard Pinot Noirs, which showcase with stunning clarity the differences that site and soil can have on the grape when the quality is high and the winemaking is decidedly hands off. But his much more affordable Willamette Valley cuvée, blended from a number of select vineyard sites within the Willamette Valley AVA, is as fine a representative of its place as any. Deep yet graceful, the elegant fruit is blanketed in foresty spice, the signature of Oregon Pinot.
Corvina’s Time
2017 Valpolicella Classico Superiore ‘Casal Vegri’
(Ca’ La Bionda)
Sale Price $21.99 – $224.30 case of twelve
We wonder what would have happened in Valpolicella if the Corvina grape variety had not been subjected to the drying process that leads to Ripasso and Amarone wines. Those deep, dark, strong wines have their obvious appeal, but when a single vineyard Casal Vegri from Ca’ La Bionda is opened we lose interest in its dried-grape cousins. The 2017 has such gorgeous floral aromas and subtle berry fruit that we love to imagine it with a roasted sea bass stuffed with fennel. For us this compares to a Premier Cru Burgundy from the Côte de Beaune.
Côte de Nuits
2016 Bourgogne Pinot Noir (Mongeard-Mugneret)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
The 2016 Bourgogne Rouge from Mongeard-Mugneret gives a terrific snapshot of the vintage and a look into the Côte de Nuits style of the producer. This Pinot Noir has a fine stony aroma, ample fruit and an earthy mushroom finish. Real Burgundy for
a fair price.
Bird Song Bourgueil
2017 Bourgueil ‘Cuvée Beauvais’ (Domaine de la Chanteleuserie)
Sale Price $17.99 –– $183.50 case of twelve
In the Loire Valley they take Cabernet Franc, a Bordeaux grape, and give it a Burgundian treatment. Instead of just extracting more tannins, skilled producers like Chanteleuserie create a balance of fruit and structure. While yields have been down in recent vintages, the wines have been qualitatively successful. Beauvais is a renowned vineyard in Bourgueil, and the 2017 is a superb value. This has charm in spades, with its ripe fruit and dry, peppery finish.
Pinot Pfalz
2017 Pinot Noir (Koehler-Ruprecht)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of four
The Pfalz district is like Burgundy in Germany. Koehler-Ruprecht makes some excellent Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc here, but the real surprise is their Pinot Noir. The 2017 is a lively, juicy plum and berry fruited wine with a crisp, dry finish. A slight chill will enhance its attributes.
An Island in Tuscany
2016 Chianti Classico (Isole e Olena)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
Perhaps it’s a stretch to call Isole e Olena’s Chianti Classico a single vineyard wine, but a few years back proprietor Paolo de Marchi did have his property fenced in to prevent the devastation being caused by wild boars and deer. He also spent $110,000 dollars on laurel and evergreen shrubs to disguise the fence, preserving the Tuscan landscape. Long one of our favorite Tuscan producers, Isole has made a fabulous 2016 Chianti Classico. This is a full-flavored Sangiovese with bright cherry fruit and hints of bay leaf and thyme.
Listed prices are honored through July 14th, 2020. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 44, No. 7
Cru Communale Muscadet
2015 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine ‘Château-Thébaud’ (Domaine de la Pépière)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
We were mildly shocked to learn that Marc Ollivier had retired. Our Muscadet epiphany was Marc’s single-vineyard old vine Clos des Briords. With his children uninterested in viticulture, Marc forged a plan to keep the Domaine alive: he hired and eventually made partners two talented young vignerons. In recent years the Muscadet authorities have designated some vineyard areas as Cru Communale, a higher grade of Muscadet. The Cru of Château-Thébaud shares the same fissured granite soil as Briords. The wine is given extended lees contact (30 months in the case of the 2015) which makes a richer, creamier style of Muscadet that still maintains its fine minerality. This is a gastronomic style of Muscadet that would be great with crab or lobster. Happy retirement to Marc; the future of La Pépière sounds, looks and tastes great.
Corsican Vermentinu
2017 Vin de France ‘Cuvée Faustine’ (Domaine Comte Abbatucci)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
Corsica is an island of intense aromas and dramatic beauty. The land is mostly mountainous and covered with maquis, a wild shrub and herb mixture that flavors the wonderful cheese and charcuterie made on the island. Domaine Comte Abbatucci is a biodynamic producer whose low yielding vines produce Faustine, easily the most intense Vermentinu we have had in the store. It’s got weight and texture to go along with herbal and citrus blossom flavors, and the amazing finish just glides along. Have this with a grilled striped bass sprinkled with herbs.
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Les Monts Damnés
2018 Sancerre ‘Les Monts Damnés’ (Thomas-Labaille)
Sale Price $29.99 – $305.90 case of twelve
We understand that $30 is a lot for a bottle of white wine, but this producer could successfully charge even more for it. The village of Chavignol lies at the base of Les Monts Damnés which is arguably the best vineyard in Sancerre. Given the steep slope, southern exposure and excellent drainage, superb wines come from this vineyard nearly every year. Plus, this wine is a rarity—a Sauvignon Blanc that will improve with age. 2018 was a very good year, giving a lovely combination of a full mouthfeel, concentrated citrus flavors and a crisp, lively finish.
Syrahvissante
2016 Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes ‘Syrahvissante’ (Louis Cheze)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
A relative newcomer in the Northern Rhône, Louis Cheze started out in 1978 with just 1 hectare of vineyards in Saint-Joseph. He’s had much success along the way to owning 30 hectares in a number of appellations, but he still prefers to let his wines speak for themselves. Young vines planted in shallow granite soil give this medium-bodied, supple and peppery Syrah. Have it with a host of outdoor fare, from barbecue to grilled sausages with mushrooms.
Chardonnay Piedmont-style
2018 Piemonte Chardonnay ‘Crevoglio’ (Borgo Maragliano)
Sale Price $9.99 – $101.90 of twelve
Because there are a fascinating amount of native grapes, a lot of the time our Italian section is a Chardonnay-free zone. But every couple of vintages Crevoglio catches us by surprise. Borgo Maragliano in Loazzolo, Piedmont makes this lively and fun Chardonnay. While technically dry, it does not lack in fruit— melon, peach and fig flood the palate. It also has good depth and sneaky length. And what a great bargain it is.
Wines of the Month — June 15, 2020 through July 14, 2020
2018 Côtes de Gascogne Blanc (Domaine de Millet)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
With their rosé and now their white, Domaine de Millet is one of our best-value French wineries. This equal parts blend of Colombard and Ugni Blanc is aromatic, crisp and dry.
2019 Chenin Blanc ‘Petit’ (Ken Forrester)
Sale Price $7.99 – $86.29 case of twelve
In our opinion South Africa’s best white wine is Chenin Blanc. And Ken Forrester makes the best bargain. Light, zesty and dry.
2018 Vin de Pays de Vaucluse ‘Grenache’ (André Brunel)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
André Brunel’s Vin de Pays Grenache is always a pleaser. The 2018 gushes with bright red fruit and enough tannin to maintain its dry finish.
2019 Pinot Grigio (Cabert)
Sale Price $7.99 – $86.29 case of twelve
The 2019 Cabert is what most people want in a Pinot Grigio— fresh and lively with good, clean fruit. And, of course, a bargain price.