Newsletter
July 15, 2014 – August 14, 2014
The Big Chillers
Rheinhessen Riesling
2012 Oppenheimer Kreuz Riesling Kabinett (Dr. Heyden)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Great values keep coming from the Rheinhessen estate of Dr. Heyden.
Last month we featured his ultra-dry Sylvaner and this month we have his classic Riesling Kabinett. Apple and pear fruit merge with crisp, bright minerals to create a perfectly balanced, delightfully fruity white. The body of this Riesling impresses with its soft and luxuriously weighted flavors.
Verdicchio Rules The Adriatic
2013 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi (Conti di Buscareto)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
The white grapes of Italy are so numerous and widespread they aren’t ranked in a hierarchy like the red grapes (Nebbiolo, Sangiovese, Aglianico…). But if we were to draw up such a list for white grapes, Verdicchio would be near the top. Produced mainly in the Adriatic region of Le Marche, Verdicchio has a floral, aromatic beginning, a juicy, rich middle, and an excellent crisp, dry finish. The 2013 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi from Conti di Buscareto is a great value and perfect for a grilled slab of striped bass.
Rocks of Vergisson
2012 Mâcon-Vergisson ‘Les Rochers’ (Domaine Guerrin & Fils)
Sale Price $21.99 – $224.30 case of twelve
The 2012 vintage in the Mâcon is of great quality, but small quantity. You know what that means for prices. Of the three very good wines from Domaine Guerrin we tasted, this Mâcon-Vergisson was our favorite. It’s a full-flavored dry French Chardonnay with aromas of honey and wheat along with a terrific stony dry finish.
Gorgo Veneto
2013 Pinot Grigio (Gorgo)
Sale Price $9.99 – $101.90 case of twelve
We’re not always crazy about Pinot Grigio, but when a solid good value crosses our palate we can’t ignore it. This 2013 from Gorgo is a crisp, lively Pinot Grigio with character and focus. It balances light peachy fruit and zesty dryness with firm texture and a clean, cool finish.
The Grüner with the Pop Top
2013 Grüner Veltliner (Hofer)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Year in, year out the big green liter bottle of Grüner Veltliner from Hofer is a big seller. Why? We think it’s because the wine is plain and simple generous fun. The 2013 follows suit. It has a faint spritz to go along with its flinty and minty flavor
Lambrusco Naturale
2013 Lambrusco dell’Emilia (Vigneto Saetti)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Lambrusco has made an impressive comeback, mostly because when they are unadulterated, the wines can be so darned delicious. The people of Emilia-Romagna have an enviable array of local food to choose from: terrific salumi, wonderful eggy fresh pasta, incredible Parmigiano-Reggiano. If there is any complaint about the food of the region it might be that it’s a tad heavy. That is precisely where Lambrusco comes in. This naturally fizzy dry red is the cool refreshing antidote to fat-laden foods. Vigneto Saetti makes their Lambrusco as naturally as possible, without pesticides in the vineyard and without sulphur dioxide in the winery. Our shipment of this ultra-Organic wine was disgorged on April 28th, 2014, making it about as fresh as you could get if you were dining in Modena, but here you should try it with our deli’s mortadella or your homemade pulled pork.
Listed prices are honored through August 14th, 2014. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 38, No. 8
Two from the Touraine
2013 Touraine Sauvignon ‘No. 2’ (Clos Roche Blanche)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
2013 Touraine Rouge ‘Cuvée Pif’ (Clos Roche Blanche)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
For a time we sold a good quantity of the Sauvignon from Clos Roche Blanche. We were also fortunate to visit this wonderful property and meet Catherine Roussel and Didier Barrouillet. At the time Catherine inherited the property, wines from Touraine could barely pay the bills, but with Didier’s inspiration they converted to organics and found new clients. It also helped that the wines are great. We now sell much less of their wine because they sold a good chunk of their vineyards to a neighbor and to their Japanese importer. A series of small harvests ensued and their wines became scarce. Now they may not be the great bargains they once were, but these two wines show what the Clos Roche Blanche is fully capable of. The Sauvignon does not mimic Sancerre nor does it even approach anything from New Zealand. They harvest the grapes at optimum ripeness and let it ferment naturally. The 2013 has a full ripe nose of wildflowers and minerals, and a rich, almost full body with a suggestion of ripe pears and a finish unlike any other Sauvignon Blanc. Named after their delightful dog, Cuvée Pif is a gorgeous Loire Valley red, a blend of Cabernet Franc and Côt, light in weight but not in flavor.
Provence Rosé
2013 Côtes de Provence Rosé (Château La Moutète)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70
La Moutète sets a great standard for affordable, delicious Rosé de Provence. The 2013 is dry and lovely with its pale color and barest hint of peach fruit. A great quaff after a day at the beach alongside a platter of curried mussels and some crusty bread.
Bon Beaujolais
2012 Beaujolais Villages (Stéphane Aviron)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Beaujolais has been enjoying a well-deserved renaissance as small growers and new-blood negociants craft their Gamay wines to add more depth and structure to the already charming fruit. The 2012 Beaujolais Villages from Stéphane Aviron has the lively cherry fruit of a fine Beaujolais, but it adds some ripe tannins and a crunchy dry finish.
Solid Gold Bordeaux
2010 Bordeaux Rouge (Château Grenet)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
For twelve dollars Château Grenet delivers a powerful and fresh Bordeaux experience. For its blackcurrant and cherry fruit, melting tannins, and soft gliding finish this wine earned a gold medal from the prestigious Paris agricultural fair.
Superiore Bardolino
2012 Bardolino Classico ‘Brol Grande’ (Le Fraghe)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Bardolino lies in the shadow of Valpolicella which lies in the shadow of its giant evil twin Amarone, but talent will always win the day and Matilde Poggi has produced a spicy and savory, graceful and powerful Bardolino Classico that truly stands out. The 2012 is the second vintage of her ‘Brol Grande,’ a blend of Corvina and Rondinella, and is likely to alter your perception of Bardolino. This is a fine red for a grilled salmon and a spicy fruit salsa.
Rosé of Syrah
2013 Syrah Rosé (Cave de Pomerols)
Sale Price $8.99 – $91.70 case of twelve
Pale dry rosé has taken over, but there is still some demand for a darker, fruitier rosé. The Syrah Rosé from the Cave de Pomerols fits the bill with its plummy fruit, soft body, and spicy finish. Once again a great value from the growers of Picpoul de Pinet and Le Montalus.
Frais pas Froid
2013 Ventoux (Domaine Durieu)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
We have made it through most of this newsletter without reminding you to chill your red wines in the warmer months, but this Provençal red is much better when slightly chilled. “Frais pas froid” or fresh not cold is how the French would advise you to serve the 2013 Ventoux from Domaine Durieu. This Grenache-based red is perfect for a long-smoked brisket or a steaming vat of ratatouille.
Freisa/Nebbiolo – Parent/Offspring
2012 Langhe Freisa ‘Chila’ (Principiano)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
The Nebbiolo grape is so old (first mentioned in 1266) that its parents are probably extinct, but another ancient grape, Freisa, is considered to be one of its likely progenitors. Freisa has survived because of its versatility. At various times, due to fashion, it has been sweet, dry, still, frizzante, and spumante, though not all at once. Despite being light in color it is high in acidity and tannins. These traits plus its wild red fruit fragrance and balancing bitterness add to the winemaker’s palette. Today most Freisa is still and dry. The 2012 from Principiano is made from a single plot of 25-year-old vines on the highest hill in Monforte d’Alba. We adore it for its spicy strawberry and raspberry fruit and the twists and turns of its complex components. Barolo it is not, but it is one heck of a Freisa. Have this with a tomato, fresh mozzarella, and basil salad
Choice Tuscan
2012 Rosso di Montepulciano (Poderi Sanguineto I e II)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
The boar-hunting Tuscan winemaker Dora Forsini is true to the roots of her family’s farm. When a new trend toward clonal selection of Sangiovese and modern techniques of fermentation arrived in Montepulciano, she ignored them. Honoring her forebears, she makes wines from untreated grapes that ferment slowly and naturally. An accident in the winery slowed her down last year, but she still refuses to compromise and the wines from Sanguineto remain completely authentic. The 2012 Rosso is striking for its gutsy tannins and wild berry fruit.
Monterey Pinot Noir
2012 Pinot Noir ‘Kali Hart’ (Talbott)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
This Pinot Noir tastes like a much more expensive bottle. The Talbott family’s estate-grown fruit from Monterey enjoys a long growing season thanks to the cooling influence of the Pacific Ocean. The 2012 has generous fruit and the elegant addition of French oak. Perfect with grilled chicken and a large summer salad with goat cheese.
Specialty Foods
Servilleta $25.99 per lb.
(Regular price $27.99)
Semi-firm, creamy and piney, with a silky texture, this delicate, fresh-tasting pasteurized goat’s milk cheese has a rustic, pillow-shaped exterior with the imprint of the ‘napkin’ (servilleta in Spanish) used to give the cheese its characteristic shape. From Catalonia, produced by Betara in the villages of Olost and Perafita between Barcelona and the Pyrenees, it won the Gold Medal at the world cheese awards in 2010. Highly recommended.
Ciudad de Sansueña $19.99 per lb.
(Regular price $21.99)
Ciudad de Sansueña is a wonderful raw sheep’s milk cheese from Castilla y Leon, produced by Lacteas Zamoro in the village of Santibáñez de Vidriales near Zamora. Aged at least 11 month, it has a distinct and full flavor: nutty, fruity, lactic. Hand pressed and molded, fermented in the natural bacteria of the milk with no added preservatives or yeast.
Maxorata $20.99 per lb.
(Reg. price $22.99)
From the Canary Island of Fuerteventura, far out in the atlantic and closer to Morocco than Spain comes Maxorata, a pasteurized goat’s milk cheese rubbed with paprika. Hazelnut sweet, creamy yet firm in texture, Maxorata was the first Spanish cheese to receive the protected Designation of Orgin. The high quality milk of the Majorera goats whose island life and excellent genetics have helped them adapt to harsh surroundings and maintain excellent health makes this cheese exceptional.
Corpa Boquerones $28.99 per lb.
(Reg. price $29.99)
These authentic Cantabrian white anchovies, lightly pickled in vinegar and packed in sunflower oil, seasoned with garlic, parsley, and salt, are a natural source of omega-3 oils. Serve on a toasted baguette with parsley and oil to your liking and pair with white wine or beer.
Wines of the Month — July 14, 2014 through August 15, 2014
2012 Field Blend ‘Lot No. 7’ (Raymond)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
This is one of our favorite ripe, fruity California values. The field blend mixture of Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah, Petite Sirah, and Zinfandel delivers a harmonious whole. Great for burgers.
2013 Côtes de Gascogne ‘Les Quatre Cepages’ (Domaine de Pajot)
Sale Price $7.99 – $86.29 case of twelve
The Four Varieties from Domaine de Pajot are Colombard, Sauvignon Blanc, Ugni Blanc, and Gros Manseng. The 2013 is fragrant, crisp, and refreshing. Plus, all the grapes are organically grown.
2012 Macabeo/Chardonnay (Castaño)
Sale Price $7.99 – $86.29 case of twelve
This wine is a bold, well balanced blend of hefty Chardonnay and mellow Macabeo. Have this with a curried chicken salad or grilled swordfish with a salsa verde.
2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Wither Hills)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
Wither Hills’ Sauvignon Blanc is a graceful, quite dry New Zealand white. Perfect for a sautéed sole with new potatoes and mesclun greens.