Newsletter

May 15, 2018 – June 14, 2018

The Pink Eurail Pass

Right now we are jamming as much rosé into the store as we can. A drought in the 2017 vintage in the South of France may lead to shortages, so we are looking elsewhere in Europe for interesting and delicious dry rosés.

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Moulin de Gassac
2017 Pays d’Hérault ‘Guilhem’ (Moulin de Gassac)
Sale Price $9.99 – $101.90 case of twelve
Moulin de Gassac Pays d’Hérault GuilhemThe fabulous estate of Mas de Daumas Gassac has a wine for every occasion. Guilhem is their value line. Last month we featured the red as a wine-of-the-month. This month we have their equally terrific rosé. Made from Syrah and Carignan vines between 25 and 50 years old, this is a crisp, dry wine with loads of earthy, herbal flavor. Great for grilled skirt steak tacos.

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L’Estoile
Domaine De L’Estoile Mediterranée Little Star 2017 Mediterranée ‘Little Star’ (Dom. De L’Estoile)
Sale Price $9.99 – $101.90 case of twelve
Here we have a new wine that falls into a favorite category of ours: the pale dry rosé de Provence. This is crisp and minerally with a bare suggestion of peach and strawberry fruit. Perfect for a seared tuna salad nicoise.

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Rosado Real
2017 Rioja Rosado (Viña Real)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
Viña Real Rioja RosadoNow that the Rioja producer Viña Real has its own new winery, they have seriously upped their game. We are pleased that they have resurrected their rosado. It offers a different perspective on pink wine. This is a white, 85% Viura-based wine infused with Tempranillo. The result is a fresh, completely dry rosado that is ideal for a seafood and artichoke paella.

Rado of Slovenia
Rado Goriska Brda2017 Goriska Brda (Rado)
Sale Price $12.99 – $132.50 case of twelve
After last year’s breakout success Rado returns with a more focused, juicier wine. Their 2017, made from the Refosco grape, delivers a gorgeous, plummy fruit with peppery spice. Have this with spicy lamb skewers and fresh fava beans.

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Le Fraghe 
2017 Bardolino Chiaretto ‘Rodon’ (Le Fraghe)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve case of twelve
Le Fraghe Bardolino Chiaretto Rodon Bardolino is rarely considered a serious wine, but everything Matilde Poggi makes deserves our attention. Her Chiaretto, made from organically grown Corvina and Rondinella grapes, has wonderful depth and intensity. We love the lilac aromas mixed in with muddled strawberries, and the wine’s crisp, lively finish. Great with an asparagus risotto.

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Cistercien
2017 Cistercien Rosé (Gobelsburg)
Sale Price $15.99 – $163.10 case of twelve
Gobelsburg Cistercien RoséAustria’s Gobelsburg is also an unexpected source for great rosé. Their Cistercien is a blend of Zweigelt, Saint Laurent, and Pinot Noir. These grapes come from their coolest-temperature vineyards and retain superb aromatics and pinpoint balance. Another delightful wine that calls for the freshest asparagus while it lasts.


Listed prices are honored through May 14th, 2018. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 42, No. 6

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Partridge of the Year
Les Bêtes Curieuses Muscadet La Perdrix de l’Année2017 Muscadet ‘La Perdrix de l’Année’ (Les Bêtes Curieuses)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
This playful, curious beast is our latest find in the Pays Nantais district for Muscadet. This is a classic minerally, dry Muscadet grown in granitic soils. It’s fresh, fun and organic. Made for seafood.

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Grapes and Nuts
2015 Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba ‘Sori Santa Lucia’ (Il Palazzotto)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Il Palazzotto Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba Sori Santa LuciaThe village of Diano is a high-elevation island of Dolcetto rising above the Alba region. Its production is dwarfed 6 to 1 by the Dolcetto d’Alba denominazione, but its prices are not that much higher. In order to scrape by, the Olivera family of Il Palazzotto grow 6 hectares of hazelnuts to augment their 5 hectares of vines. We would pay twice as much for this wine if they included a small bag of hazelnuts because we have never had better hazelnuts than those from Piedmont. The 2015 is drinking beautifully now. Its mellow, plummy fruit is flecked with mint and anise. The finish is firm with perfectly ripe tannins. 2015 has been our all-time favorite vintage for Dolcetto and this one is superb.

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Workhorse of the Médoc
2015 Médoc (Château Cailloux de By)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Château Cailloux de By MédocIn the coming months we will have more wine from the excellent 2015 Bordeaux vintage to offer, but for now we have the always excellent Médoc from Cailloux de By. This equal-parts blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot has all the deep-rooted flavors we love about the Médoc. It has dark blackberry fruit from the Cabernet, soft plummy fruit from the Merlot, and an undertow of minerals and tannins in the finish. This is beautifully structured Bordeaux, born and bred for roast lamb and blue-veined cheeses.

Sangiovese Sings
Even though Tuscany is not that big a region, it does produce a fascinating array of wines based on one red grape with several names – most widely known as Sangiovese. Here we have three from the 2015 vintage. Each excellent in its own way, from a superb producer, ready to enjoy, and fascinatingly different.

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Elevated Sangiovese
2015 Chianti Classico (Volpaia)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Volpaia Chianti ClassicoVolpaia is located in the high-elevation Radda district of the Chianti Classico zone. Even in the hottest vintages this Chianti retains freshness with its classic cherry fruit and cedar aromas. The 2015, made from organic grapes, is given a soft smooth infusion of 10% Merlot. Have this wonderful Chianti with a pork roast and roasted rosemary potatoes.

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According to the Stars
2015 Monteleccio (Sesti)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Sesti Monteleccio It stands to reason that the Sesti winery, founded by a Venetian astronomer, is organically farmed ‘according to the stars – from the writings of a Greek philosopher of 2000 years ago.’ Powerful Rosso and Brunello emerge from the Castello di Argiano, but their young Monteleccio is an earthly indulgence. Here in the 2015 vintage the Brunello clone of Sangiovese delivers an effortlessly balanced elegance of supreme purity.

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Armed for Boar
2015 Rosso di Montepulciano (Sanguineto I e II)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Sanguineto I e II Rosso di MontepulcianoIn the Tuscan town of Montepulciano the Sangiovese grape is called Prugnolo Gentile, and in the hands of boar hunter Dora Forsini it delivers a formidable red wine experience. Upon its first arrival we were able to offer this wine for $17.99 and it flew out of the store. Based on a new (not so good) exchange rate, the latest shipment is still well worth $19.99. Fantastic with a pappardelle, whether boar, lamb, or rabbit.

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Rheingau Trocken
2016 Johannisberger Vogelsang Riesling Trocken (Goldatzel)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Goldatzel Johannisberger Vogelsang Riesling Trocken If we were asked to choose a single hill on which to dream away a perfect afternoon, it would probably be among the steep slopes of the Mosel or Rhine alongside a bottle of Riesling. Thanks to young Johannes Gross, who has brought an influx of energy and sustainability to the family estate in the Rheingau, we’d be supremely happy if it was this hill and this bottle. The 2016 Johannisberger Vogelsang is a decidedly dry Riesling. Juicy lime and a dash of salinity lead into a long finish. A dream all by itself, but excellent with spicy shrimp tacos.

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Original Chenin
2017 Stellenbosch Chenin Blanc (Raats)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Raats Stellenbosch Chenin BlancAfter France, the oldest Chenin Blanc vines are in South Africa. The Raats family ‘Original’ delivers an intense and pure Chenin Blanc experience for an astonishingly reasonable price. The 2017 is richly concentrated with apricot fruit and lovely linden-blossom aromas. A wonderful wine for grilled salmon.

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Gentil on my Mind
2016 Gentil (Hugel)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Hugel Gentil We met Etienne Hugel back in 1989 at a lavish dinner celebrating the Hugel’s 350th anniversary. At the time we joked that we might see each other again at the 400th, being the two youngest at the dinner. Unfortunately, this will not be the case because Etienne left this world a few vintages ago at a too young age. Luckily we ran into each other at industry events in the intervening years. With its generations of experience the Hugel winery will always be in good hands. This is evident in their everyday Gentil blend. The 2016 with its delicious mélange of 6 great Alsatian grape varieties has wonderful aromatics, crisp dryness, and a smooth, rich body. Salut to all the Hugels.

The First Sale #2 of 2018 begins
Friday May 25th and runs through Sunday June 3rd.
Details: 10% off six bottles; 20% off twelve bottles. Wines of the Month (back page), fortified wines (Port, Sherry, Vermouth, etc.) and sparkling wines may be included for a 10% discount. Blue tagged (NET) wines and jug wines (1.5L and 3L) are excluded.

Specialty Foods

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Bell and Goose Cheese Co. Flora Hayward $26.99 per lb 
(Regular Price $29.99)

Bell and Goose Cheese Company Flora Hayward cheeseBell and Goose is a woman-owned cheesemaking operation out of South Hampton, New Hampshire. Founder Anna Hayward Cantelmo has an extensive background in cheesemongering, dairying, and cheesemaking. Now dedicated solely to the latter, she sources her cow’s milk from local dairies, in an effort to “preserve our agricultural landscape.” Flora Hayward is their take on the alpine style, with each wheel aged for 8-12 months. This cheese artfully demonstrates the sweet/savory balance that makes alpine cheeses so appealing, with a New England twist.

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15 Fields Irish Cheddar $21.99 per lb 
(Regular Price $25.99)

15 Fields is a collaboration between Eamonn Lonergan of Knockanore Irish Farmhouse Cheese and Sheridans Cheesemongers, an Irish retailer and wholesale distributor. The cheese is named after the 15 pastures that comprise the Lonergan Family Farm in County Waterford. Fittingly, it is only produced from May to October when the cows are feeding on the pastures. Made with raw milk and vegetarian rennet, wheels are clothbound before being aged for 8-12 months. This traditional style cheddar is rich and buttery, with mild acidity and a dry, crumbly texture.

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Cypress Grove Bermuda Triangle $26.99 per lb 
(Regular Price $29.99)

Cypress Grove Bermuda Triangle cheeseCypress Grove, the Northern California producer that was at the forefront of the American artisan cheese renaissance, is most well-known for the inimitable Humboldt Fog. Yet they have a number of takes on the style of ripened goat’s milk cheeses, including the distinctive Bermuda Triangle. Like Humboldt Fog, this cheese is made with pasteurized goat’s milk and microbial rennet, and sports a downy white rind that blooms over a dusting of vegetable ash. What makes Bermuda Triangle truly unique is its shape — a triangular prism. While clearly a sibling to Humboldt Fog (the firm and chalky center tastes clean and tart, with a softer and creamier paste developing below the rind as the cheese ages), the triangular shape of each slice means more rind and therefore more bite!

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Gorgonzola Dolce DOP “Verde Crema” $11.99 per lb 
(Regular Price $13.99)

Gorgonzola Dolce is an extremely soft cow’s milk blue cheese from the northern Italian provinces of Piedmont and Lombardy. The application of “sweet” to the name of Gorgonzola differentiates it from its stronger and more piquant counterpart, Gorgonzola Piccante. There are about 60 dairies designated to make Gorgonzola Dolce according to DOP specifications, and this producer’s selection is one of the best we’ve found. This young, gentle blue contains a moderate amount of blue veining, which keep the flavors of the blue mold from dominating the subtleties of the rest of the cheese.



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Wines of the Month — May 15, 2018 through June 14, 2018

Manoir de la Firetière Chardonnay

2017 Chardonnay (Manoir de la Firetière)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
This 2017 Loire Valley Chardonnay is crisp and dry, ripe and round, with lively apple fruit. Perfect with oven-roasted cod.

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2017 Côtes de Gascogne Rosé (Domaine de Millet)
Sale Price $7.99 – $86.29 case of twelve
This is not only a terrific Rosé, it’s a near perfect wine-of-the-month: spicy and dry, with gorgeous raspberry and strawberry fruit, and its alcohol content is only 11.5%. Made from Egiodola (a Basque hybrid) and Syrah, it’s versatile and delicious and a tremendous value.


Domaine Bousquet Malbec

2017 Malbec (Domaine Bousquet)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
Bousquet is a French family making Argentine wine. Their organic line is delicious and affordable. The 2017 Malbec is beautiful, with blackberry fruit and cracked black pepper spice. Get out the grill.

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Grati Chianti2016 Chianti (Grati)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
The Grati family has made a thoroughly enjoyable organic Chianti in the 2016 vintage. Perfect for a plate of beans drizzled with Tuscan olive oil.