Newsletter

September 17, 2021 – October 17, 2021

It’s Italia Time

We hope that the harvest season treats you with abundance. This month it’s Italy’s time to shine. Here are 5 reds and 1 white for tomatoes, fish, pasta, guanciale, eggplant, and beans. Dig in.

redline

Cantine Valpane Barbera del Monferrato Rosso PietroBarbera
2017 Barbera del Monferrato ‘Rosso Pietro’ (Cantine Valpane)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
Barbera is a juicy red wine that reminds us of a perfectly ripe tomato grown in a sun-drenched field. Valpane’s 2017 is ready for the red sauce.

redline

Fattoria La Rivolta Beneventano Falanghina I Vigneti di BrumaFalanghina
2020 Beneventano Falanghina ‘I Vigneti di Bruma’ (Fattoria La Rivolta)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Falanghina is a white wine from Campania that is delightful with fish and clams. The 2020 from La Rivolta is as fresh and clean as you want your fish to be, along with crunchy fruit and a lean, minerally finish. A complete seafood wine.

redline

Spicy Speziale
2020 Verduno Pelaverga (Fratelli Alessandria)
Sale Price $21.99 – $224.30 case of twelve
Fratelli Alessandria Verduno PelavergaRescued from extinction by growers in the village of Verduno, Pelaverga has established itself as a light, spicy grape of real culinary interest. The Alessandria family makes a luminous version with lively raspberry fruit and delightful flecks of red chili flavor. Perfect for ravioli stuffed with porcini mushrooms.

Hail Cesanese
2017 Olevano Romano Cesanese ‘Collepazzo’ (Riccardi/Reale)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Riccardi-Reale Olevano Romano Cesanese CollepazzoThe not-so-dirty little secret to Roman cuisine is guanciale, a salted pork cheek. This delicious fatty piece of meat adds uncommon depth to pasta and beans, and the red Cesanese from Riccardi/Reale is a juicy foil to these hearty dishes. Its cherry fruit and smooth tannins will also make it suitable for a filet of seared salmon.

redline

Il Frappato
2018 Vittoria Frappato ‘Il Frappato’ (Valle dell’Acate)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Valle dellAcate Vittoria Frappato Il FrappatoSicilian wines have come a long way in a very short time. Fortunately, they are affordable and absolutely food friendly. While the farmers markets are still open, get some eggplant and make a pasta sauce alla Norma to serve with dell’Acate’s Frappato. This medium-weight red has a fine balance of fruit and tannin to stand up to a spicy vegetarian pasta dish.

redline

Poggio al Sole Toscana Rosso TritticoTuscan Trio
2017 Toscana Rosso ‘Trittico’ (Poggio al Sole)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Tuscans are famous bean eaters. The 2017 red blend from Poggio al Sole, with its mint-infused cherry fruit, will be a great match for borlotti beans in an onion, garlic, and bay leaf broth.

Listed prices are honored through October 17th, 2021. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 45, No. 10

redline

Autumnal Rosé
2020 Chinon Rosé (Couly-Dutheil)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Couly-Dutheil Chinon RoseWith producers like Baudry, Raffault, and Couly-Dutheil, our Loire Valley selection is blessed with Chinon. Our favorite Chinon rosé is the deep and dark version from Couly-Dutheil. Their 2020 features a nose full of crushed aromatic violets, a palate drenched with berry fruit, and a long, slithering, dry finish. Don’t serve it too cold because this is a sensational rosé that drinks like a light red. Have this with spicy noodles in a mushroom broth.

redline

The Ladies of Larrivaux
2018 Haut-Médoc (Château Larrivaux)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
Chateau Larrivaux Haut-MedocLarrivaux has become one of our favorite Bordeaux. The quality keeps rising and for now the prices remain reasonable. This 2018 is gorgeous. The nose is so good that you should indulge it for a while before taking a sip. The palate is soaked by dark fruit and ripe, tactile tannins, and the finish is long and zesty. Try this lively young Haut-Médoc with a lamb curry.

redline

Trocken
2015 Kaseler Dominikanerberg Riesling Auslese Trocken (C. von Nell-Breuning)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
C von Nell-Breuning Kaseler Dominikanerberg Riesling Auslese TrockenKaseler Dominikanerberg is a single vineyard site that has been in the Nell-Breuning family for eleven generations. It sits high above the Ruwer River, which is a tributary of the Mosel and has the same steep slopes. The blue slate soil gives this bone-dry Riesling a nice mineral backbone, while the late-harvest fruit offers plenty of ripe pear notes. The oily mouthfeel and mouthwatering acidity make it the perfect refreshment for brats and warm German potato salad with lots of crunchy bacon.

Kate’s Pinot
2017 Oregon Pinot Noir (Kate Arnold)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Kate Arnold Oregon Pinot NoirDespite Oregon’s production being dwarfed by California’s, producers there have provided some of the best values in Pinot Noir. This month we have the 2017 from Kate Arnold, a lovely cherry-scented red with spice and length. A great wine with seared salmon on a bed of lentils and spinach. 

redline

Hare Hare
2020 Lemesos Xynisteri (Tsiakkas)
Sale Price $15.99 – $163.10 case of twelve
Tsiakkas Lemesos XynisteriIt’s not too often we come across wine from Cyprus, so it’s even more exciting to find one that is this delicious and offered at a fair price. Made with the native white grape Xynisteri, this is a true Mediterranean island wine. The 2020 Tsiakkas is bright and zesty, with generous grapefruit, peach, and floral aromas and a dry, herbal finish. Wonderfully refreshing when paired with seared squid with garlic, lemon, and parsley.

redline

Roussanne of the Alps
2018 Chignin Bergeron ‘La Coulée de Proserpine’ (Berthollier)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
Berthollier Chignin Bergeron La Coulee de ProserpineThe Roussanne grape has two homes in France: one in the Southern Rhône Valley and one in the mountains of Savoie. Really, a rather nice existence. In the Rhône it’s usually part of a blend, but in the Savoie it shines on its own as Chignin Bergeron. The most striking feature of the 2018 from Berthollier is its rich, honeyed mouthfeel. It also has a lovely floral aroma and charming peachy fruit. This will make a fine match with a spicy Thai green curry and spring rolls.


redline

Charm School
2019 Chiroubles ‘La Grosse Pierre’ (Domaine de la Grosse Pierre)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
Domaine de la Grosse Pierre Chiroubles La Grosse PierreChiroubles is one of the most charming Crus of Beaujolais. Somehow the combination of minerality and fruitiness leads to aromatic delight, and the 2019 La Grosse Pierre is packed with all of that. There’s a smokiness to the raspberry fruit, and the earthy, dry finish is poised and cool. Great with a spicy couscous.

Straight outta’ Quincy
2020 Quincy ‘Beaucharme’ (Domaine Sylvain Bailly)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Domaine Sylvain Bailly Quincy BeaucharmeQuincy is a teardrop-sized appellation on the banks of the Cher River southwest of Sancerre. Domaine Sylvain Bailly produces some Sancerre but also makes this precocious Sauvignon Blanc in Quincy. The 2020 is lively and aromatic with apricot and lemon fruit. It finishes very dry and will be a delight with all manner of fish and shellfish.


Specialty Foods

redline

La Casera Castel-J $22.99 per lb 
(Reg. Price $24.99)

La Casera cheeseThough cheeses from La Casera have been staples at the Wine Cask for years, it has not been easy to find information (in English, at least) about this new one. What we do know is that it is modeled after Castelmagno, a traditional cheese from the Piedmont. Made with pasteurized cow’s milk and molded into a large drum shape, Castel-J’s most notable feature is its dry and crumbly texture. Though the rind can look very rustic (and it’s not uncommon for blue veins to form in cracks in the wheel), the cheese is highly approachable, pleasant, and flavorful. We’ve taken to describing this table cheese as simply ‘crushable.’ It would do well on a spread with fruit, nuts, and honey.

Agour Ossau-Iraty ‘Manech’ $22.99 per lb  
(Reg. Price $24.99)

Like all PDO cheeses, production of Ossau-Iraty is controlled by strict legal requirements in order to protect its identity and integrity. In this case, the milk (which must be raw) can only come from three breeds of sheep native to France’s Basque country. Though Agour makes a number of versions, we have recently been favoring this one, made with 100% Black-faced Manech milk. Of the three breeds, the Black-faced Manech has been losing appeal among producers since it produces smaller volumes of milk. These are true Alpine sheep (with a rugged appearance to match), and this cheese is Agour’s attempt to protect and preserve the breed through highlighting the milk’s quality and character. True to the style, this has a semi-firm texture and is slightly sweet and earthy but also rich and fatty. Amongst the different Ossau-Iraty cheeses we’ve tried, this one stands out with its intensity, richness, and persistent finish. This is not a beginner’s Ossau-Iraty, but we think it’s worth it.


redline

Larchmont Charcuterie
Pork Saucisson $22.99 per lb (Regular Price $24.99)

Founded in 2008 by French chef Daniel Teboul, Larchmont Charcuterie brings a taste of the French Alps to Westchester County, New York. Saucisson is a coarsely ground and fermented sausage and is a cornerstone of French charcuterie. The soft texture and gently spiced, buttery flavor of saucisson make for a lovely addition to a charcuterie board, but it’s equally appropriate as a quick snack in the park.

 
Bresaola $32.99 per lb (Regular Price $34.99)

Larchmont’s beef bresaola packs a bold, meaty flavor, but is perfectly balanced with sweetness, earthiness, and smokey aromas. Bresaola is traditionally a lean-cut beef top round that is salted and air-dried, and originates in the Lombardy region of the Italian Alps. Larchmont’s bresaola is smoked and has a beautiful, rustic flavor that will pair well with nutty alpine cheeses like Comté or Beaufort.

redline

Wines of the Month — September 17, 2021 through October 17, 2021

Gorgo Pinot Grigio delle Venezie

2020 Pinot Grigio delle Venezie (Gorgo)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
Our second drop of 2020 Gorgo Pinot Grigio has arrived just in time for fall. This is an absolute charmer with its subtle fruit and crisp, dry finish.

redline

 Tilia Malbec-Syrah

2020 Malbec-Syrah (Tilia)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
Tilia’s Malbec-Syrah blend always works for us. It’s not too heavy, but it’s substantial enough for a spicy rice and bean dish.

Tintero Piemonte Rosso2019 Piemonte Rosso (Tintero)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
This is a mellow, fruity blend of the good grapes of Piedmont. Ripe and ready for ravioli, lasagna, polenta, and mushrooms.

redline

Mantlerhof Gruner Veltliner

2020 Grüner Veltliner (Mantlerhof)
Sale Price $9.99 per Liter – $107.89 case of twelve
Big wow! A great deal on Grüner in a liter. Mantlerhof. Schnitzelhof. Any way you spell it, this is a delicious deal.


redline

Click here for a printable version of the current newsletter