Newsletter
January 15, 2021 – February 14, 2021
Red, Tinto, Rosso, Rouge, and Schulthauser
Winter is all about warm and delicious aromas and flavors emanating from the kitchen. Here are several delicious and affordable reds (and one white) to go with the hearty fare of the season.
Shiraz
2018 Shiraz (Woop Woop)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Even though Australian wine never really went away, we feel that it will return to its previous glory as a value leader. The 2018 Woop Woop Shiraz is decadently rich, yet fresh and spicy, and will match well with a spicy Thai beef salad.
Bobal
2018 Utiel-Requena ‘Pasión de Bobal’ (Bodega Sierra Norte)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Spain’s province of Valencia is nicknamed ‘La Huerta’ because it is such a productive agricultural region. The most planted red grape is Bobal, and the best Bobal comes from the region of Utiel-Requena. Here, the higher elevation gives a cooler micro-climate and a longer growing season. Bodega Sierra Norte’s Pasión de Bobal is an excellent introduction to the grape. This has delicious cherry fruit along with a stony dryness. Have with a Valencian rice dish with artichokes and tomato.
Carmignano
2016 Carmignano ‘Santa Cristina in Pilli’ (Ambra)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Carmignano is a small Tuscan denominazione that has long been allowed to add a little Cabernet Sauvignon into the mix of Sangiovese and Canaiolo, well before the term “Super Tuscan” entered the wine lexicon. Ambra’s 2016 is brick colored and delightfully fruity and savory. It certainly is a Super food-friendly Tuscan. Try with ribollita, bean soups, or a simple pork roast stuffed with rosemary.
Dolcetto
2018 Dolcetto d’Alba (Guido Porro)
Sale Price $17.99 per bottle – $183.50 case of twelve
We’re always on the lookout for a delightful new Dolcetto, and Guido Porro has provided one. This 2018 has gorgeous dark cherry fruit, graceful tannins, and a gripping, dry finish. A terrific wine for a beef, barley, and mushroom stew.
Vins de Vienne
2017 Côtes du Rhône ‘Les Cranilles’ (Vins de Vienne) Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Les Cranilles comes from Grenache, Syrah, and Carignan harvested in the southwest corner of the Côtes du Rhône appellation. It is darkly fruited, with lots of ripe plum flavor along with nicely gripping tannins and a mouth coating finish. This is a fine red for a lamb curry along with spicy roasted eggplant.
Schulthauser
2019 Pinot Bianco ‘Schulthauser’ (St. Michael-Eppan)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
St. Michael-Eppan makes our favorite Alto Adige Pinot Bianco, which for us is the signature white of the region. It may seem odd, but we feel that while the regular St. Michael-Eppan Pinot Bianco is a great value at $12.99, the Schulthauser is an even better value at $17.99. The aromas and flavors start out subtle but build to a long, rich, fully dry finish. Our cheese department is promoting fondue this month, and this mountain Pinot Bianco is our choice to go with all that delicious melted cheese and its savory accoutrements.
Listed prices are honored through February 14th, 2021. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 45, No. 2
The Ladies of Larrivaux
2015 Haut-Médoc (Château Larrivaux)
Sale Price $27.99 -- $285.50 case of twelve
Since 1580 ownership and management of Château Larrivaux has been in the hands of women. On an estate of 75 hectares, 19 are devoted to vineyards, while the rest consists of fields, quarries, and forest. To protect the microsystem, no insecticides are used, so the fields flourish with insects, the quarries teem with bats, and the forest thrives with flora and fauna, all to the benefit of the vines. In the 2015 vintage, owner and winemaker Bérangère Tesseron made a complete and delicious red Bordeaux with 41% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Petit Verdot. This is a smooth, rich, and elegant blend that is just beginning to mature. A great wine to have with a winter salad of spicy greens and goat cheese.
Aligoté
2019 Bourgogne Aligoté (Paul Pernot et ses Fils)
Sale Price $27.99 – $285.50 case of twelve
When asked what has changed at his Domaine in the last thirty years, the 80+ year old Paul Pernot replies simply “Rien.” This is a Puligny-Montrachet producer steeped in tradition. We’ve loved the wines over many years, but like all wines in Burgundy prices keep going up. But after years of asking, we were finally able to buy their more affordable Aligoté. It’s not Puligny, but the 2019 is a ripe, full white that still retains the fine streak of acidity and minerality that we adore from Aligoté. A great Burgundy to drink with seafood and shellfish.
Barolo
2016 Barolo (Cascina Ballarin)
Sale Price $29.99 – $305.90 case of twelve
The Viberti family has not entirely lost their sharecropper roots in Piedmont, when they grew fruit, nuts, and grains amidst the vines to scrape together a living. Today they produce a delicious and affordable Barolo from their prime Nebbiolo vines in La Morra, Monforte d’Alba, and Novello. The 2016 vintage spent 26 months in barrels and another 12 in bottle to create an immediately pleasurable dry red with lovely flavors of cherries, cacao, and toasted hazelnuts. It’s wonderful right out of the bottle, but even better when left to breathe for a couple of hours.
Gigondas
2018 Gigondas ‘Vieilles Vignes’ (Saint Damien)
Sale Price $33.99 – $346.70 case of twelve
With producers like Saint Cosme and Saint Damien, Gigondas has broken away from its identity as a poor man’s Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Plus, a good Gigondas is almost always ready to drink from the get-go. That is just one of many things to recommend from the 2018 Saint Damien Vieilles Vignes, made from vines that are older than 40 years. The Grenache (80%) and Mourvèdre are fermented in tanks and then aged for a year in large barrels. The dark, powerful wine is packed with fully ripe fruit, savory herbs, and scents of olive and licorice. This is big yet balanced, and ready to drink with a hearty lamb stew followed by blue-veined cheese. If you want the crème de la crème from 2018 Saint Damien, we also have a couple of cases of their older vine Gigondas cuvée ‘La Louisiane’ priced at $39.99.
Santa Barb Chard
2017 Santa Barbara Chardonnay ‘Los Alamos’ (Au Bon Climat)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Given their contribution to Santa Barbara County viticulture, Au Bon Climat has every right to slap a ‘Historic Vineyard Collection’ tag onto this bottle of terrific Chardonnay. The 2017 Los Alamos Vineyard Chardonnay delivers a lively, balanced palate. It begins with tropical fruit aromas, then delivers a rich, buttery texture and finishes cool and crisp. Great with crab cakes and a spicy aioli.
Vouvray
2019 Vouvray ‘Les Aumones’ (Domaine Le Capitaine)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
We tend to promote this wine in every good vintage because it is affordable and entirely true to its roots: Chenin Blanc vines burrowed into the chalky soil of Vouvray. While the 2018 was a full-on Demi-Sec with a lovely soft sweetness, the 2019 is a little drier, with just a touch of peachy sweetness along with the telltale Vouvray earthiness. In any case, expect this great value to exceed expectations, and if you buy a case every bottle will be better than the last. If you accidentally cellar it for five or more years you will be even more greatly rewarded. Right now, it’s terrific with an herb encrusted roasted salmon with a fruit salsa. Or give it a go with fondue.
Get Fortified
2006 Colheita Porto (Barros)
Sale Price $29.99 – $161.95 case of six
While it would be great to have a cellar full of Vintage Port, a more practical approach would be to pay attention to the availability of Colheita Tawny Ports. A Colheita Port is a wine from a single vintage that is aged in barrel for at least seven years. When released to the market these wines are ready to drink, and surprisingly affordable given their age and expenditure in producing them. We’d lost track of Barros, a Colheita specialist, but recently rediscovered their 2006. Bottled in 2015, this is as smooth as Port gets; its refined dried fruit and roasted nut flavors last long but do not overpower. Great with an aged Cheddar.
Vermut Negre
Vermut Negre (Casa Mariol)
Sale Price $27.99 – per Liter
Don’t believe for a moment that we have been sitting on the sidelines of the Vermouth revolution. We raised a fist and a glass when Casa Mariol’s Vermut Negre returned to our shelves after a too-long hiatus. This Catalan specialty is based on white Macabeu wine, then infused with green walnuts and wild herbs and spices. The delightful, etched-on glass label gives schematic details showing how to mix and serve, but within this Liter bottle, there are many more delicious discoveries to be made. Salut!
Specialty Foods
Without Further Adieu…
Gruyère Surchoix $21.99 per lb
(Reg. Price $23.99) raw cow’s milk
Gruyère Belfaux Réserve $18.99 per lb
(Reg. Price $19.99) raw cow’s milk
Rahmtaler $17.99 per lb
(Reg. Price $18.99)
raw cow’s milk
Vacherin Fribourgeois $24.99 per lb
(Reg. Price $25.99) raw cow’s milk
Chällerhocker $24.99 per lb
(Reg. Price $25.99) thermized cow’s milk
This winter has been especially hard on our connections and on traditions typically enjoyed in the presence of friends and family. Thankfully, fondue is a wonderfully decadent and comforting meal, with roots in tradition and an emphasis on the act of sharing the meal with your household. Preparation is simple and, adapted to the times, the whole process can be enjoyed virtually with those you can’t spend time with in person. Fondue is even a perfectly acceptable dinner for one (no judgements at the Wine Cask, whether you choose to scale the recipe down or not). To that end, we are offering an incredible selection of Swiss melting cheeses that are all perfectly suited to a classic fondue.
Gruyère Surchoix, made by Michael Spycher, is beautifully nutty and rich, and holds the distinction of being the only cheese and producer to twice win Gold at the World Cheese Awards (2008 and 2020). Gruyère Belfaux Réserve has been our go-to Gruyère for years.
It is reliably tasty and always a great value. Next we have Rahmtaler, for which affineur Gourmino has adopted the motto “Take Emmentaler back!” Made with whole-milk as opposed to the traditional skim, this complex and flavorful Emmentaler thoroughly shames its mass-produced cousins. Vacherin Fribourgeois is a semi-firm alpine cheese from Fribourg, Switzerland. This versatile melting cheese is equally suited for raclette, but we like adding a bit to fondue for some extra pungency. Last is Chällerhocker, a standout cheese from the Swiss Canton of St. Gallen. Washed with brine and spices and aged for a minimum of 12 months, this cheese will add extra nutty and spicy flavor to your fondue blend!
Here is our staff favorite fondue recipe.
Enjoy!
• 1 sliver of garlic
• 2 tbsp butter
• 2 tbsp flour (sub 1 tbsp cornstarch for gluten-free)
• 2 cups dry, unoaked white wine
• 1.5 oz kirsch
• 1.5 lb grated alpine cheese (use any combination of the
aforementioned cheeses or choose your own)
• Salt, pepper, nutmeg to taste
Rub the inside of the pot with the garlic. Melt butter in the pan and blend in flour, then add wine. If using cornstarch, mix with wine first, then add to butter. Add kirsch. Slowly add cheese, stirring continuously. Once combined, continue to stir and cook until the alcohol has evaporated. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Serve with toast, cured meats and sausages, vegetables (roasted, steamed or pickled), fruit, cookies… anything, really. Get creative!
Wines of the Month — January 15, 2021 through February 14, 2021
2019 Cabernet Sauvignon (Domaine Bousquet)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
The Bousquets are a French family producing organic wine in Mendoza, Argentina. Their 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon is ripe, rich, and packed with dark berry fruit.
2019 Tempranillo (Venta Morales)
Sale Price $7.99 – $86.29 case of twelve
Made from grapes harvested in Castilla y Leon, Venta Morales is a superb bargain in Tempranillo. Its pepper-laced fruit makes it an ideal partner with a lamb stew and beans.
2019 Vinho Verde (Muralhas de Monção)
Sale Price $7.99 – $86.29 case of twelve
The twin towns of Monção e Melgaço are recognized as a superior place to grow grapes for Northern Portugal’s Vinho Verde. This fresh and lively dry white is made from Alvarinho and Trajadura. Its crisp melon and ginger flavors are perfect for seafood.
2018 Luberon Rouge ‘Terre de Safres’ (Domaine Le Novi)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
Grenache, Syrah, and Cinsault comprise this delicious Provençale red. It’s earthy and herbal, with a hint of black olive flavors.