Newsletter
June 15, 2019 – July 14, 2019
Cool, Powerful Whites
Often consumers want something dry, white, and innocuous, but it is good to be reminded that there are white wine producers who aim to craft richer, more powerful wines with true character. These six are hearty whites with real palate presence.
Rock Solid Sancerre
2018 Sancerre (Paul Cherrier)
Sale Price $27.99 – $285.50 case of twelve
Sancerre is an admittedly easy wine to sell. After all, it’s Sauvignon Blanc. But we strive to have a reasonably priced, really good go-to Sancerre and then a few producers with better vineyard sites that yield richer wines. In the last couple of vintages Paul Cherrier has managed to be both, while also being organic and biodynamic.His entry-level Sancerre comes from a limestone-heavy vineyard near the village of Verdigny which in 2018 delivered a full-bodied, richly fruited, totally dry Sancerre with length and depth. A superb white for crab cakes and an aged goat cheese.
Vendômois
2018 Coteaux du Vendômois ‘V.V.’ (Patrice Colin)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
The Coteaux du Vendômois is among the northernmost of the Loire Valley appellations, mostly known for light, distinct reds and rosés made from Pineau d’Aunis. However, the region also makes a small amount of white wine from Chenin Blanc. Typically these can’t compete with other Loire Chenin Blancs, such as those from the more well known and well regarded appellations of Anjou, Saumur, or Vouvray. But in the hands of Patrice Colin, organic 60- to 90-year-old vines produce a rich and dry white with character. The candied apple fruit is backed by honey and spice, and the cool, flinty finish assures that this is Loire Valley Chenin at a great value.
Vidiano – It’s about Thyme
2018 Dafnios Vidiano (Domaine Douloufakis)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
The last 20 years in wine has been a veritable archeological dig. We are so fortunate to be able to taste wines made from grapes that were close to extinction, but now are able to produce a commercially viable crop. How about Assyrtiko from Santorini? Or Vidiano from Crete? Given some care and attention these grapes are now producing wonderfully original wines. The 2018 Vidiano from Douloufakis is a striking, chiseled beauty with a round, mouth-filling palate, earthy intensity, and the haunting flavor of wild thyme. Try this with a salad made with the new Feta from our cheese department and some of our new shipment of Halloumi, the grilling cheese from Cyprus.
Not So Simple Bordeaux
2017 Bordeaux Blanc (Château Ducasse)
Sale Price $12.99 – $132.50 case of twelve
Hervé Dubourdieu is a master in the production of white Bordeaux. Most are familiar with his benchmark Graves, Graville-Lacoste. For a few vintages now we have also been enjoying his Ducasse, a less expensive white labeled as a simple Bordeaux. The Bordeaux region has been having a run of good vintages for red wine, but 2017 is the vintage to buy in white. This has the creamy, textured body of Semillon, a good dose of lively, crisp Sauvignon Blanc, and a dollop of aromatic Muscadelle. A great wine for a roast cod dinner, asparagus, and new potatoes.
Back From the Dead – Monopole Clasico
2015 Rioja Blanco ‘Monopole Clasico’ (CVNE)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
For more than 50 years, one of Spain’s favorite white wines was Monopole made by CVNE (known as Coonay). This wine was barrel aged and, with permission from the Rioja DO, included a measure of Manzanilla sherry. Eventually it fell out of fashion and was replaced by a stainless steel-fermented wine, also called Monopole, which still exists. When an old customer asked about the old Monopole the folks at CVNE searched their wine ‘cemetery’ and found a lone bottle of the 1979. They opened it, found it to be alive and delicious, and decided on the spot to make the wine again, albeit in small quantities. To do so they called Ezequiel Garcia, their winemaker from the 40s to the 70s. Nicknamed ‘El Brujo’ (the wizard) and now in his eighties, he agreed to do it. The 2014 was the first re-release, now labeled Monopole Clasico. Sadly Ezequiel has passed away, but his wine is still with us and the 2015 is superb. This deep, dry white is smoky, salty, and peppery. Have this with a seafood paella, garlic shrimp, and big chunk of Manchego. A toast to El Brujo. Long live the Wizard.
Mosel Trocken
2017 Riesling Trocken (Clemens Busch)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Dry Riesling may still sound like a contradiction, but believe us it is here to stay. Producers like Clemens Busch in the Mosel are dedicating their best vineyards to make rich, satisfying, slate-inflected dry wines from the steep river-hugging vineyards. This 2017 is only 10.5% alcohol, but it soaks the palate with salty minerals.
Listed prices are honored through July 14th, 2019. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 43, No. 7
3-star Roannaise
2017 Côte Roannaise ‘Les Blondins’ (Michel Troisgros & Stéphane Sérol)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Though technically part of the Loire Valley, the wines of Côte Roannaise have more in common with those of Beaujolais, less than 50 miles to the east, than with other Loire appellations. Wines here are made exclusively from Gamay that is grown on a similar granite soil, and tend to be lighter bodied, vibrant, and low in tannin. Domaine Serol is one of the top producers, and Les Blondins is the product of a decades-long collaboration with the Troisgros family, owners of a Michelin 3-star restaurant in Roanne. It’s refreshingly drinkable but not lacking in complexity, with pure red fruit supported by damp earth and a mineral undercurrent. Soft tannins round out the persistent finish. Excellent for roast chicken and rosemary smashed potatoes.
The Young Girardin
2017 Bourgogne Rouge (Justin Girardin)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Who knew that our recommended value Pinot Noir for two consecutive months would be from Burgundy? Young Justin Girardin continues the family tradition in the Côte de Beaune village of Santenay. His Bourgogne rouge comes from a flat parcel outside the Gravières vineyard, but the vines are fifty years old and deliver this sappy, rich wine. This 2017 has a beautiful balance of raspberry fruit, ripe tannin, and earthy dryness. This will match well with grilled salmon and lentils.
Right Bank Fronsac
2015 Fronsac (Château Arnauton)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
The village and appellation of Fronsac lies on the Dordogne River to the west of Pomerol. This is Merlot country, and in 2015 the right bank of Bordeaux produced some of the best wines of the vintage. Château Arnauton’s 2015 is a dark, full-bodied red with loads of plummy fruit and an ample, long finish. Great with a roast leg of lamb.
A Great Year for Paul
2016 Côtes du Rhône ‘Paul’ (Domaine Saladin)
Sale Price $21.99 – $224.30 case of twelve
Domaine Saladin has been in the hands of sisters Marie-Laurence and Elisabeth since 1993, but the family winemaking tradition dates back significantly further, to the purchase of a vineyard in 1422. The 18 hectares which the estate now owns have always been cultivated organically, and the sisters’ approach to winemaking is decidedly low-intervention and respectful of the rich family history. Paul is an homage to their uncle, who planted the estate’s oldest vineyard, from which the fruit for this cuvée is sourced. 90% Grenache and 10% Clairette, this lithe and expressive Côtes du Rhône, with its plump raspberry fruit and gentle spice, would be a perfect match for grilled vegetables.
Argentine Tannat
2018 Tannat ‘Amauta’ (El Porvenir de Cafayate)
Sale Price $12.99 – $132.50 case of twelve
Last month we featured the aromatic and savory white Torrontes from El Porvenir. This month we have their lovely red Tannat. This grape’s claim to fame is its tannins, but in the high-altitude vineyards of Salta the tannins are literally buried beneath the fruit. Here jammy blackberry fruit steals the show, but it remains juicy and crisp. Have this with your preferred burger and a spicy salsa.
Where’s Mencia?
2017 Bierzo (Merayo)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
When one Bierzo producer was asked his impression of the local Mencia grape, they said it was “somewhere between the Northern Rhone and Burgundy” – meaning it resembled both Syrah and Pinot Noir. This remark aptly captures the 2017 from Merayo. It’s dark and peppery like Syrah, but has the fine fruit quality of Pinot Noir. It’s also a great value. For a spicy pork stew with a side of garlic laced greens.
July Without Rosé – No Way
Crios
2018 Malbec Rosé (Crios)
Sale Price $9.99 – $101.90 case of twelve
Rosé de Malbec from Crios is once again a charming strawberry-scented, midweight rosé with a twisting, dry finish. Great with a spinach and goat cheese salad.
The Pink Méditerranée
2018 Le Saint André Rosé (Figuière)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Le Saint André Rosé is a fresh and snappy, terrific-value Mediterranean blend. The very sunny blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cabernet, and Cinsault is light and dry and perfect for green beans tossed with walnut oil and almonds.
Muga Rioja Rosé
2018 Rioja Rosé (Muga)
Sale Price $16.99 – $173.30 case of twelve
Muga has long been one of our favorite “more serious” rosés. By virtue of its use of barrel fermentation it yields a deeper fruit, richer body, and a long finish. This is a great match with grilled lamb chops and a salad of fava beans.
Pineau Rosée
2018 Touraine Rosé ‘La Rosée’ (Jean Francois Mérieau)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Pineau d’Aunis is an old Loire Valley grape given new life by renewed interest in rosé. Jean Francois Mérieau’s La Rosée has gorgeous cherry fruit, a hint of peppery spice, and a dry, slightly bitter, radish-like finish. Try with an oily fish like bluefish or mackerel.
Specialty Foods
Maplebrook Farm Burrata $9.99 per pc
(Regular Price $10.99)
Burrata is a fresh cow’s milk cheese that is perfect for summer picnics and barbecues. A variety of mozzarella, the curds are stretched, formed into a pocket, and sealed with fresh cream inside. Burrata makes an excellent addition to a salad or can be served simply with fresh tomato, olive oil, and cracked black pepper.
Champlain Valley Queso Fresco
$6.99 per pc
(Regular price $7.99)
Champlain Valley Creamery produces certified organic cheeses in Middlebury, VT. Their Queso Fresco is soft and mild with just a hint of acidity. It shreds and melts well, making it perfect for wherever warm melted cheese is needed. This is an extremely versatile cheese; try it on anything from tacos to pizza.
Essex St Greek Feta $13.99 per lb
(Regular price $15.99)
This incredible Greek feta is made in the village of Agra on the western side of the island of Lesbos. The sheep that produce the cheese graze on the sunny, sea-sprayed hillside around the village, just as local shepherds have done for millennia. This feta melts in the mouth and (while maintaining a classic tangy, salty flavor) has a gentle sweetness with a note of citrus. Enjoy as a table cheese with fresh fruit and cucumbers.
Mt Vikos Halloumi $9.99 per pc
(Regular price $10.99)
Halloumi, a classic sheep’s milk cheese from the Island of Cyprus, does not melt when heated. This unusual characteristic makes it perfect for grilling or frying! Grilled Halloumi is a great way to mix up the menu at your next barbecue. Serve it on crostini with hummus, olive oil, and fresh mint.
Wines of the Month — June 15, 2019 through July 14, 2019
2018 Vermentino di Sardegna ‘Aragosta’ (Cantina Santa Maria La Palma)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
The new vintage of Aragosta is a pure and zesty delight. It’s so fresh it almost slaps you. This Sardinian value is perfect for a scampi or a chowder.
2015 Chianti Superiore (Castello di Monastero)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
2015 in Tuscany was as good as it gets. This Chianti Superiore is a dark and structured blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet, and Merlot. Great with stuff off the grill.
2018 Côtes de Gascogne Rosé (Domaine de Millet)
Sale Price $7.99 – $86.29 case of twelve
Millet’s Gascon Rosé employs Syrah and Egiodola to wonderful effect. Both grapes deliver a peppery kick to this lightly tannic rosé. Great with a bean stew and skirt steak tacos.
2018 Pays d’Oc Blanc (Le Petit Balthazar)
Sale Price $6.99 – $75.49 case of twelve
This equal-parts blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier is aromatic, crisp, and dry. Have this with Thai noodles, spring rolls, or a spicy tofu stir fry.