Bandol
2024 Bandol Rosé (Domaine Dupuy de Lôme)
Sale Price $26.99 – $275.30 case of twelve
This excellent Bandol estate is named after the maritime engineer Stanislas Charles Henry Dupuy de Lôme (1816-1885). Among his many achievements he designed the first truly operational submarine, the “Gymnote,” which inspired Jules Verne’s description of “Nautilus” in Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea. The wine estate began in 1903 when his daughter purchased the estate and vineyard. In 2006 the family refurbished the vineyard, keeping the old vines and converting to organics. They have been on a winning streak ever since, riding the wave of the rosé revolution. Their 2024 is a superb fresh rosé with Mourvèdre bringing deep fruit and peppery spice and with Grenache and Cinsault offering finesse. Have this with a grilled tuna.

Cantina Convento
2023 St. Magdalener Klassisch (Muri-Gries)
Sale Price $15.99 – $163.10 case of twelve
This lovely organic red comes from the Benedictine monastery of Muri-Gries, located outside of Bolzano in northern Italy. St. Magdalener Klassisch is a showcase region for Schiava, where at least 90% must be from the grape (only Lagrein and Pinot Noir are allowed to make up the balance). In this case, the Muri-Gries is 95% Schiava with a dash of Lagrein. Its brambly raspberry fruit is tempered by hints of bitter herbs and a meaty undercurrent, making it a charming partner for charcuterie. Better yet, chill a bottle for a half hour and serve with portobello mushroom schnitzel and a vinaigrette-based potato salad.

Mokoroa
2024 Getariako Txakolina (Mokoroa)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
With our previous selection of Txakolis all north of $20, we were pleased to recently discover this affordable new one from Mokoroa. This beachy white wine from Spain’s Basque region has been soaring in popularity in recent years, with good reason. From a relatively young family winery, Mokoroa’s 2024 ticks all the Txakoli boxes: it is fresh and zippy, has a light spritz, crisp fruit, peppery nuances, and a very dry salty finish. This makes a refreshing partner for a fried seafood platter.

Other Burgundies
2023 Bourgogne Aligoté (Domaine Marc Morey)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
Despite the fact that the acreage for Aligoté in France is the same as it was 50 years ago, interest from growers and drinkers has increased. We’ve narrowed it down to two reasons: one, the prices of most other Burgundies have shot up; two, a warmer climate has made the usually acidic Aligoté into a richer, fuller white. Marc Morey of Chassagne-Montrachet has long produced a good Aligoté, but the current winemaker, Sabine Mollard, has harnessed the extra sunshine to make a zesty, full-flavored white. It still has crisp acidity, but there is weight and texture as well. Excellent with crab cakes.

2023 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain (Domaine René Cacheux & Fils)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
Because the appellation of Bourgogne Passetoutgrain encompasses all of Burgundy and is a blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay (with a tiny percentage of white grapes also allowed), it’s never had the status of other Burgundy appellations. In a region rightfully obsessed with location and microclimate, the fact that the grapes could come from anywhere often resulted in an enjoyable but somewhat generic red. However, in the hands of a talented producer, a Passetoutgrain can be a serious and delicious value in Burgundy. Case in point is this 2023 from René Cacheux & Fils. Sourced from 55-year-old vines in their vineyards near Vosne-Romanée, this Passetoutgrain is a 60/40 blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay. Full of juicy cherries, red currants, and crushed leaves, this nicely concentrated red is this month’s clear pick for a roast chicken.

Deux Albion
2023 IGP Vaucluse Blanc ‘Les Deux Albion’ (Domaine de Saint Cosme)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Though the vast majority of their production is red wine (including venerated Rhône Crus such as Gigondas, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and Côte Rotie, as well as a few wonderful Côtes du Rhône) we’ve long had a soft spot for Saint Cosme’s white wine. So we jumped on a recent steep price reduction—seriously!—to feature the excellent 2023 Les Deux Albion Blanc. Organically grown Viognier, Picpoul, and Marsanne make up the bulk of this blend. The ripeness of the fruit is wonderfully balanced by herbs, bitter almonds, and crisp acidity, giving ample freshness. This will be excellent alongside a variety of dishes, from goat cheese to bouillabaisse to lobster.

Crespaia
2024 Bianchello del Metauro (Crespaia)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
Bianchello del Metauro is a hyper-local grape variety from the northern Marche region of Adriatic Italy. Crespaia’s version is made from hand-picked organic grapes. The 2024 is fresh and floral with a crisp dry finish. This is terrific with a fish soup.

Grüner Leben
2022 Grüner Veltliner ‘Ausstich’ (Setzer)
Sale Price $15.99 – $163.10 case of twelve
Our new go-to Grüner for the summer is Setzer’s Ausstisch from the Austrian region of Weinviertel. The Setzer family estate has been in continuous operation there since 1705, though the early focus was more on livestock and produce. Over the centuries the family made the wise decision to put increasing focus on the vineyards and winemaking. Weinviertel is known for producing especially peppery Grüner Veltiner, which makes up half of the grape plantings in the region. Setzer’s lively 2022 is layered with fresh apple and pear fruit, an herbaceous streak, and plenty of peppery spice. A lovely choice for sea bass with braised fennel and new potatoes.

Spice Garden
2022 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling (Karl Erbes)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Travel down the Mosel and you’ll be struck by the steepness of the rocky slopes which tower over the river, and the seemingly impossible vineyards that cover them. It’s clear that tending the vines here is extremely difficult and labor-intensive, which makes the affordability of Karl Erbes’ single-vineyard Rieslings all the more impressive. Karl’s son Stefan now heads the family estate, which owns 5 hectares of own-rooted Riesling in famed vineyards such as Erdener Treppchen and Ürziger Würzgarten. The latter vineyard name translates to ‘spice garden’, alluding to the lush and spicy nature of the wines made here. Dripping with a heady mix of ripe fruit, ginger, and spice, this has balanced sweetness and a pleasing finish. Great with Szechuan shrimp.

Herbs & Flowers
While we don’t always have a theme for our features, this month’s selection came together quite naturally. Chance recently brought us two new delicious Alpine cheeses made with an added herbal/vegetal element. Feeling inspired, we gathered two other favorites which prominently feature native flora. In each case, the herbs, greens, or flowers are not added to make up for a lack of flavor in the cheese. Instead they enhance the elements of terroir which are already there thanks to the milk and microbiome, and make something entirely unique. So, dig in and explore what nature has to offer!

Cannalina $26 per lb
Koch Käse — Appenzell, Switzerland
It may seem like a gimmick, but this Swiss Alpine cheese made with hemp extract (derived from hemp leaves, flowers, and oil) is delicious and singular. The maker describes it as a “tribute to nature…inspired by the green world of plants,” and we think it works. The piquancy of the raw cow’s milk nicely meets the grassy and herbaceous flavors from the hemp, all carried by the perfect fudgy texture.

Entlebucher Bärlauchkäse $28 per lb Käsekellerei Beromünster — Luzern, Switzerland
Bärlauch (translates to ‘bear’s garlic’) is a form of wild garlic in the Allium family which is foraged in the spring in Eurasia, roughly analogous to North America’s ramps. The medium-firm, creamy paste is studded with the chopped green leaves, giving it a striking appearance as well as extra aromatics. Made with raw cow’s milk, there is just a touch of earthy funk to the cheese, but overall it has a relatively mild milky sweetness which carries the delicate, garlicky flavor, while the finish is lifted with a slight oniony bite. Though delicious as a snacking cheese, this would be a great candidate for melting and culinary uses such as in an omelette.

Alp Blossom $28 per lb
Hofkäserei Kraus — Bavaria, Germany
A long-time favorite among both customers and staff, this Alpine cheese is quite eyecatching thanks to its coating of dried flower petals, which are sourced from the alpine meadows where the cows graze in summer. Also made with unpasteurized milk, it is robust and flavorful. The current batch is perfectly balanced between the brothy and umami flavors typical of an alpine cheese and bright, fruity, and floral notes.

Fleur de Maquis $32 per lb
Ottavi — Corsica, France
Yes, we have already featured Fleur de Maquis this year, but this seemed like a worthy occasion to bring it back into the mix. Hailing from the Mediterranean island of Corsica, the name references the dense shrubland that covers the island. This one makes a nice contrast to the others featured here as it is made with sheep’s milk. The small semi-firm wheels are coated with herbs and spices including rosemary, fennel, juniper, and pepper. Thanks to the small size of the wheels, the herbs on the rind really penetrate and influence the flavor of the cheese. There is a mix of bright citrus and savory herbs with a slightly tangy finish.