Newsletter
March 15, 2021 – April 18, 2021
Back in Stock
When a featured wine comes back in stock after we’ve said that it has sold out, we have mixed feelings. We’re sorry that we misled you, but glad that you can have a favorite wine again. Sometimes more has been discovered in a forgotten corner of the wholesaler’s warehouse, or a new shipment has recently arrived by boat, or we were simply waiting for a better deal so we could offer it again at a bargain price. Hopefully, we’ll never have to use the tariff excuse again.
Marengo Dolcetto
2019 Dolcetto d’Alba (Mario Marengo)
Sale Price $15.99 – $163.10 case of twelve
For growers in Piedmont, Dolcetto has long been a delicious insurance policy. It ripens a full four weeks before Nebbiolo and can be planted in cooler, higher elevation locations where Barbera will not ripen. In the winery, it does not require oak aging of any kind, so it can go from stainless steel vat to bottle without taking up space (and time). Marengo’s Dolcetto is perpetually on the verge of selling out since they only make around 300 cases a year, so we’re always surprised when we can get more. This is delicious and perfect with pasta, rice, and mushrooms.
Alberdi Rioja
2015 Rioja Reserva ‘Viña Alberdi’ (La Rioja Alta)
Sale Price $21.99 – $224.30 case of twelve
We have been telling customers that the 2015 Alberdi was long gone and that we were waiting for the new vintage. To our surprise, when we were finally able to order more it was again the 2015. That’s not a bad thing, because this vintage is only getting better. The oak and Tempranillo fruit continue to integrate, and by the time we run out again, it will be really delicious.
Catena Malbec
2018 Malbec (Catena)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Luckily, the ‘one month on, one month off’ deal for Catena Malbec is back on at the wholesaler. This allows us to feature this great bottle of Argentinean wine for $19.99. The 2018 is rich and polished, not too oaky, and has a fine, dry finish.
Cooper Mountain Pinot
2017 Pinot Noir (Cooper Mountain)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
We knew the wholesaler had more of this in the warehouse, but opted to wait a couple of months in order to get the ‘best’ deal right before the new vintage was going to be released. This market inefficiency leads us back to the $17.99 bargain price for the lovely organic and biodynamic 2017 Cooper Mountain Pinot Noir. We are warned that the 2018 will be more expensive. We’ll see about that.
Grillo from De Bartoli
2018 Grillo ‘Vignaverde’ (De Bartoli)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
We were sad when this difficult-to-acquire Sicilian white sold out the first time. But now the organically-grown Grillo from De Bartoli is back in stock and even less expensive than before. This light and lively white is perfect for seafood and shellfish.
Vajra Rosso
2019 Langhe Rosso (G.D. Vajra)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
As soon as the new vintage of our most popular Northern Italian red landed in port, we jumped at the chance to stock up. Two months is just too long to be without this customer and staff favorite. The grapes Nebbiolo, Barbera, Dolcetto, Freisa, Albarossa, and Pinot Noir combine to give the quintessential aromas and flavors of Piedmont. The 2019 is juicier and more fruit-focused than the previous vintage that we offered, but the balancing grip of its finish provides the perfect foil for the decadence of artisanal salumi and aged cheeses.
Listed prices are honored through April 18th, 2021. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 45, No. 4
Langhe Nebbiolo
2019 Langhe Nebbiolo ‘Villa Gentiana’ (Silvio Giamello)
Sale Price $21.99 – $224.30 case of twelve
The Giamello family scrapes together a living despite making less than 1,000 cases per year. It certainly helps that most of their vines are in Barbaresco. The grapes for this Langhe Nebbiolo are technically qualified to be made into Barbaresco, but are separated out based on the location in the vineyard, age of vines, aging potential, and taste. What they then bottle is a charming young Nebbiolo with a gorgeous rose petal perfume, mulberry fruit, ripe tannins, and an earthy, dry finish. We’re sure that this wine soaks up a lot of pasta at the Giamello table.
Greco
2018 Sannio Greco ‘Janare’ (La Guardiense)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
North of Naples lies the appellation of Sannio, where the farm co-op La Guardiense found inspiration to start a project to celebrate native grape varieties, including Greco. This is one of those white wines that refuses to show its charm straight out of the fridge. Once warmed up, however, the Janare rewards your patience with fragrances of white blossoms, lemon curd, and honey. Without a touch of oak, it has a wonderful creaminess that is weighed down by stone fruit and minerals. A life-affirming choice with fried clams from nearby Courthouse Seafood, or with a broiled branzino with rosemary and lemon.
Puisseguin St. Émilion
2015 Puisseguin Saint-Émilion (Château La Croix Guillotin)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Puisseguin is clearly not a name dreamed up by marketing folk, but this village’s name (meaning “the hill with the powerful wine”) is a stroke of early Celtic genius. The hill is the highest elevation in the St. Émilion district, and the 2015 vintage has yielded many a powerful wine. La Croix Guillotin is a smooth, rich Merlot and Cabernet Franc blend with polished plum and black currant fruit. A fine red for a burger and blue cheese.
A Grenache-Free Côtes du Rhône
2018 Côtes du Rhône ‘La Bouveau’ (Saint-Damien)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
A couple of months ago we praised the fine Gigondas from Saint-Damien. This month we have a very good but very different wine. There probably isn’t a Gigondas made without Grenache, but there are Grenache-free Côtes du Rhône. La Bouveau is mostly Syrah with small additions of Cinsault and Viognier. The Syrah brings rich black olive and berry fruit along with noticeable tannins, while the Cinsault and Viognier lend elegance and perfume. Have this with roast lamb stuffed with tapenade.
Another Legrand Saumur-Champigny
2018 Saumur-Champigny ‘Les Lizières’ (Clotilde Legrand)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Clotilde Legrand’s Cabernet Francs from Saumur-Champigny are our new Loire red favorites. The Les Lizières cuvée is a little lighter than the Les Terrages that we featured earlier, but they are both delicious. This one is more perfumed, with smoky blackberry fruit. Try this light and lively red with fish.
J.J. Prüm
2018 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett
(Joh. Jos. Prüm)
Sale Price $39.99 – $407.90 case of twelve
When we have the opportunity to buy the last few cases of a Riesling from one of the top vineyards in the Mosel made by one of the region’s finest producers, we take it. Prüm’s wines are known to be extremely long lived, to the point that they can sometimes be impenetrable in their youth and often need many years of aging to reveal their charm. Not so here; this Kabinett from the ripe and generous 2018 vintage is more than approachable now, but will still age with ease. The ripe orchard fruits and breezy floral aromas are complemented by deep minerality from the blue slate soils. On the palate, it’s light but vivid, with the slight sweetness finely managed by the acidity.
Ready to Drink Savigny
2017 Savigny-lès-Beaune ‘Vieilles Vignes’ (Guillemot) Sale Price $44.99 – $458.90 case of twelve
Our favorite wine from Guillemot is their Savigny-lès-Beaune Ier Cru Serpentières, but when we tasted this less expensive 2017 Vieilles Vignes, we bought a bunch. This wine has the classic Guillemot ‘earth and mineral’ nose. On the palate it is lighter and less structured, but this makes it much more open than the Serpentières. It will be interesting to see how this ages, but it’s nice to have a ready to drink Burgundy with the great pedigree of Guillemot.
Mythic Scharzhofberger
2018 Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett (Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Scharzhofberg is one of Germany’s mythic vineyards. Located in the Saar, the site is a steep, south-facing slope of pure slate. In this cool corner of the Mosel, Riesling takes its time to ripen, creating wines of incredible depth and ageability. Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt is making some of the best dry-style Scharzhofbergers. This 2018 Kabinett is mouth filling, full flavored, and a bit drier than most. Gorgeous apple and pear fruit plus compelling minerality are some of its many charms. Give this a go with sushi and noodles.
Specialty Foods
“The Goats May Be Lazy, but These Ladies Aren’t…”
Lazy Lady Farm (Westfield, VT)
Rotating Selection $13.99 per piece (Reg. Price $14.99)
Nettle Meadow Farm (Warrensburg, NY)
Adiron-Jack $14.99 per piece (Reg. Price $17.99)
Kunik Mini $8.99 per piece (Reg. Price $9.99)
Sappy Ewe $14.99 per piece (Reg. Price $15.99)
Seal Cove Farm (Lamoine, ME)
Chevrotin $23.99 per lb (Reg. Price $27.99)
Fresh Chèvre $5.49 per piece (Reg. Price $6.49)
Blueberry Chèvre $5.49 per piece (Reg. Price $6.49)
Throughout its long history, cheesemaking has been a male-dominated industry, but thankfully this imbalance is beginning to shift. In honor of Women’s History Month we are showcasing some of our favorite local cheeses made by women. In a newsletter first, ALL cheeses from each of these three featured producers will be on sale until next month!
Lazy Lady Farm is known for their constant experimentation, making strictly seasonal cheeses in very small quantities, and using clever and often politically inspired cheese names such as Snow’d In and Barick Obama. Laini Fondiller (owner and head cheesemaker) has been raising goats and making cheese on her off-grid farm for over 20 years, and though she makes a few staples, we often only get 6 pieces of a new cheese at a time and then never see it again. The creativity and the unpredictability are the fun part, but you can expect a delicious soft-ripened, gooey cow or goat’s milk cheese (~6 oz.), with a unique twist. It’s obvious that the animals are the lazy ladies, not her.
The newest from Nettle Meadow Farm (co-owned and run by Lorraine Lambiase and Sheila Flanagan) is Adiron-Jack. Made with pasteurized Jersey cow’s milk, it is a small-format triple cream (~8 oz.) infused with New York Apple Jack Brandy. The bright, fruity flavor of the brandy provides a lovely contrast with the rich and gooey cream. It joins a long line of Wine Cask favorites such as Kunik Mini (~5 oz.), a goat’s milk cheese with added cow cream, and Sappy Ewe (~8 oz.), a firmer sheep and cow’s milk cheese coated in vegetable ash and maple reduction.
The story of Seal Cove Farm began in 1976 with Barbara Brooks (owner and head cheesemaker) and a single goat named Jill. The farm is now 125 goats strong, and has become one of our favorite local producers. Many of you may recognize their fresh chèvres (4.5 oz.), but their aged Chevrotin is truly something special. This firm goat’s milk cheese packs a big flavor; it is tangy, salty, and all-around unctuous. Crumble on top of sliced fresh tomato or an olive tapenade for a flavorful snack, or just eat it by the handful as we’ve taken to doing.
Wines of the Month — March 15, 2021 through April 18, 2021
2019 Côtes de Gascogne ‘Cuvée Océane’ (La Marina)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
Gascony is the land of Armagnac and great-value whites. The Menard family makes this delicious and bracingly dry white from Colombard, Sauvignon Blanc, and Ugni Blanc. As the names (Océane and Marina) imply, it’s meant for seafood, but is equally fine on its own.
2018 Russian River Pinot Noir (Castle Rock)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
This medium-weight Pinot Noir is wonderfully balanced between fruit, earth, and tannin. Great for grilled salmon, roast chicken, or a veggie burger.
2018 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo ‘Riparosso’ (Illuminati)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo might be the best-value red of all. Illuminati’s Riparosso is wonderful with all kinds of rich pastas, as well as any cuisine that involves spicy heat.
2020 Vin de France Rosé (Le Poussin Rose)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
Le Poussin Rose has become our best-selling rosé. Hailing from the sandy soils of the Camargue in the Rhône Delta, its crisp, peachy fruit is delicate and dry. Lovely with a shrimp scampi.