Newsletter
September 22, 2020 – October 21, 2020
Straight Beaujolais
2019 Beaujolais (Domaine Dupeuble Père et Fils)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
The amazingly good straight Beaujolais from Dupeuble has been so good for so long it is sometimes referred to as importer Kermit Lynch’s house Gamay. It’s lovely to watch this purple wine being poured into a glass. Its vibrant, aromatic fruit is very nose-friendly. On the palate, it is surprisingly layered— multiple fruits are backed by subtle, spicy tannins. Chill slightly and serve with a cheesy potato gratin and a salad.
Côte-de-Brouilly
2018 Côte-de-Brouilly (Nicole Chanrion)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 of twelve
Chinon
2015 Chinon ‘Cuvée Terroir’ (Charles Joguet)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Cuvée Terroir is the entry-level bistro wine from the team at Charles Joguet. Mssr. Joguet retired several years ago, but the Domaine is running as well as ever. This 2015 is a wonderful mature Chinon made with grapes from precocious vineyard sites blended with press wine from their more prestigious vineyards. Press wine is what winemakers keep in reserve after fermentation in case more tannin is needed in the various vats; here it adds structure and depth to support the fruit. This is a great wine to have with a roast chicken and sautéed mushrooms.
Grézeaux
2018 Chinon ‘Les Grézeaux’ (Bernard Baudry)
Sale Price $29.99 – $305.90 case of twelve
We like everything that Baudry produces, but this is one wine that enthralls us enough to buy it in quantity every good vintage. The 60 year old Les Grézeaux vineyard produces a Chinon that is fresh and beautiful in its youth, mellow and smooth in the mid-term, and earthy and profound at 15 to 20 years of age. For its price, this wine delivers a lot.
Saumur-Champigny
2018 Saumur-Champigny ‘Les Terrages’ (Clotilde Legrand)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Fleurie
2019 Fleurie (Clos de la Roilette)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
Listed prices are honored through October 21st, 2020. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 44, No. 10
Due to tariffs and changes in currency we expect prices on French wines to keep rising, so we locked in this good deal on Cherrier Sancerre when we had the chance. The 2018 is a deliciously ripe Sauvignon Blanc grown in the clay and limestone soils of Verdigny. This village is just one hillside over from our favorite Sancerre village of Chavignol, and this wine matches those in its richness and balance. Have this with sautéed sole, steamed potatoes, and some fine Bucheron cheese. 
Whenever we promote a Menetou Blanc we mention that it is an affordable alternative to Sancerre, its near neighbor. What we now realize is that Menetou Rosé is likewise an incredibly affordable alternative to Sancerre Rosé. The Morogues is an organic, dark (for rose) Pinot Noir with a full mouthfeel, pleasant berry fruit, and a gripping, dry finish. This has a lovely autumnal feel and will go well with a layered vegetable gratin. 
The time-warp winery Lopez de Heredia is having its moment. Having been discovered by sommeliers across the country, their legendary Riojas are becoming scarce and, ineluctably, more expensive. Our supply of the 2007 Tondonia Reserva was purchased to be able to sell at $49.99. The 2008 vintage will sell for $59.99. This wine is so good—with its spice box nose, floral palate, and long, elegant, and fresh finish—that we almost hate to sell it. Please don’t ask about the white Riojas from Lopez. They are even better and we really hate to sell those. 
The 2019 Marengo Dolcetto is riveting from start to finish. Its lurid purple color leads to succulent, plummy fruit, while gentle tannins keep this ripe wine in earthy, dry form. We’ve said it many times: Dolcetto is a great wine for a mushroom risotto, or any other dish showcasing mushrooms. 
Tuscan reds never go out of style, especially at this easy price. The Trittico is mostly Sangiovese from Chianti Classico with a touch of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s got loads of the classic cherry fruit of Sangiovese, with enough earthy tannins to delightfully counter the savory fat of a cast-iron seared steak. 
The 2018 Bourgogne Blanc from Defaix Frères is a cool northern Burgundian Chardonnay with a resemblance to Chablis. This is wonderfully balanced between stony minerals and limey fruit. Light, crisp and refreshing, it is a perfect white for roasted haddock on a bed of root vegetables. 
NY
Ford Farm Dairy sources this cave-aged Farmhouse cheddar from Ashley Chase Estate in Dorset. All of the cheesemaking occurs by hand, including the labor-intensive cheddaring process. Wheels are then matured approximately 200 feet underground in the famous Wookey Hole Caves, which offer the ideal temperature and humidity conditions for ripening the cheese. By the end of aging, the texture is firm, with complex aromas balanced between sweet and earthy. The flavor is quite robust and well-rounded. Try pairing it with a Bordeaux or Cabernet Sauvignon.
Cabot’s Clothbound is an approachable natural rind bandaged cheddar, with a nutty aroma and crumbly texture. Selected wheels from Cabot’s dairies are sent to the Cellars at Jasper Hill for aging, where they spend ten to thirteen months before release, with plenty of care and attention to ensure the flavor profiles develop just right. This cheese carries a deep, savory flavor, with a pleasant tang on the finish. Pair this with some Chestnut Honey, and a dry cider or hoppy ale.
This is Shelburne Farms’ best-known and best-selling cheddar, and deservedly so. It is a great representative of “Vermont Cheddar”— perfectly balanced between acidity and sweetness, it is versatile and great for snacking. Its flavor profile will especially suit the fall and winter days ahead. Along with your favorite dry cider, try with a slice of pâté, which will compliment the acidity in the cheese.
