Newsletter
February 15, 2018 – March 14, 2018
Douro
2015 Douro (Vale do Bomfim)
Sale Price $9.99 – $101.90 case of twelve
Valravn
2015 Sonoma County Zinfandel ‘Old Vine’ (Valravn)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Gabrielle
2015 Côtes du Rhône ‘Gabrielle’ (Domaine les Grands Bois)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
This ever reliable producer has another winner with the 2015 Gabrielle. The 60/40 blend of Grenache and Syrah is full-bodied and peppery, with a pleasant rosemary and olive finish. Fine for a lamb roast with lots of garlic and roasted potatoes.
Ramitello
2013 Molise Rosso ‘Ramitello’ (Di Majo Norante)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Olga and Bernard
2015 Chinon ‘Les Barnabés’ (Domaine Olga Raffault)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
2015 Chinon ‘Domaine’ (Domaine Bernard Baudry)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
As you may already know we think that Loire Valley Cabernet Franc is not only a terrific wine, but also an incredible value. These Chinons from two great family Domaines come from the excellent 2015 vintage. Both drink superbly upon opening and have great food-matching capabilities. We usually stock the ‘Les Picasses’ from Olga Raffault, but scarcity and demand have driven the price up, so this month we leapt at the younger, more supple ‘Les Barnabés.’ 
The Cabernet Franc in this cuvée is grown in a sandy, gravelly soil. This gives it lovely floral immediacy along with red fruits and soft tannins. The Baudry ‘Domaine’ is a mix of riverside gravel and hillside vineyards that produce a more structured, earthy dry red that still has charming fruit and ripe, supple tannins. Both of these wines are delightful with a roast salmon dish with a tossed goat cheese salad.
Listed prices are honored through March 14th, 2018. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 42, No. 3
Try as we might, it has proved impossible to convince everyone that not all Riesling is sweet. But we continue to insist that even those that are not totally dry should not be dismissed outright. The Paterberg Kabinett from Schneider is a classic Rheinhessen Riesling. Even at the Kabinett level this wine has body and depth unheard of at this price. Glistening pear and apple fruit are accented with lovely crispness. The result is a wine that is perfect for spicy noodles and spring rolls. 
The Pfalz Kabinett from Eugen Müller is all about the minerality of the basalt soil. This has amazing aromatic purity along with lean and long mineral flavors and just enough crunchy fruit. Perfect for a delicate sautéed sole or a flash-seared tuna with green beans. Immich-Batterieberg is an estate in the Saar mostly devoted to dry Riesling. They cultivate some of the oldest vines in the region. The Escheberg is a blend of their best Crus, and priced much more reasonably.
In 2015 they captured the essence of the steep, old, slate-laden vineyards of the Saar with this intense, gorgeous wine. This is a dry Riesling with power and complexity in all its many facets. For a perfect match have this with sushi and sashimi.
Who knew that rosé would become as popular as it has? Well, it helps that the wine is now almost always dry and usually a great value. The Monastrell grape makes excellent rosé in Spain as well as France. In France it’s called Mourvèdre, the main grape in Bandol. In the Spanish province of Murcia it produces a full flavored, deep, and peppery rosé with enough sap and strength for hearty winter dishes. Try the Castaño Rosé with a rich tomato-based fish stew or with a dish of lentils and rice.
We never imagined that we would have as many types of vermouth on our shelf as we do today. The old mainstays persist, but many mothballed brands have been resurrected. Apparently all those art deco posters that hang in Italian cafés display what were once real brands! An innovative chef and a classic distiller are responsible for the Bèrto Vermouths from Piedmont. Their goal was to create an old-style Piedmontese vermouth that could stand on its own as an aperitif. These are both on the sweet side, but have a lovely complexity of herbs and spices. The golden-hued Aperitiv is made with a base of Trebbiano and Moscato infused with as many as 16 different herbs and spices. 
We detect a fair amount of bitter orange, cardamom, and angelica, but there is much more going on. Based on the floral Freisa grape, the Ross, while sweet, has a fine line of bitterness similar to a Barolo Chinato. Our guess is that gentian, clove, and rhubarb are primary components. The producer suggests serving these on the rocks with an orange peel, but we’re certain they can be used creatively in cocktails as well. 
We fear that wines like this Gavi will eventually disappear in the US market. While we are happy to sell this white for its absurdly low price, we wonder how long small family growers like the Massones can continue. That said, please enjoy the herbal, crisp, and dry 2016. It will be a fantastic match with an asparagus risotto..
One of the newest cheeses from Cricket Creek Farm in Williamstown, MA, Sophelise is a product of their commitment to creating high quality cheeses that uniquely reflect the rich environment of their Berkshire farmland. A gooey washed rind cheese, its unique pungency is the result of being washed with bourbon from nearby Berkshire Mountain Distillers. It is simultaneously yeasty, earthy, sweet, meaty, and creamy, making Sophelise a cheese that invites contemplation and conversation.
Spring Brook Farm in Reading, Vermont has a small line of cheeses made using raw Jersey cow’s milk from their own herd and from nearby dairy farms. Ashbrook is inspired by the French Morbier, down to the line of vegetable ash that runs through the center of the cheese. A semi-firm washed rind cheese aged 3-4 months, it is an excellent fusion of earthy sweetness and mild funk. Though absolutely worth buying on its own (delicious) merits, all sales support the farm’s admirable ‘Farms for City Kids’ foundation, a program that gives young students from nearby cities a hands-on education while encouraging an appreciation for agriculture, science, and sustainability.
Little Hosmer is a new cheese from another favorite New England producer, Jasper Hill Creamery in Greensboro Bend, Vermont. Though very approachable, this brie-style cheese is not boring. As with any good bloomy rind cheese, the earthiness and complex vegetal flavors of the rind are balanced by the rich creaminess of the paste. Sold in mini 4 oz wheels, this makes a perfect snack for two (or one!)
Blue Ledge farm is a family-owned goat dairy in the Southern Champlain Valley of Vermont. They began making cheese in 2002, and have been committed to the health and happiness of their animals and the sustainability of their farming practices. Riley’s 2x4, a mixed raw cow and goat’s milk cheese aged over 4 months, has a smooth texture that becomes slightly crumbly as the cheese ages. The earthy flavor is delicate and only mildly tangy, making this a versatile cheese for pairing with any lighter wine, beer, or cider.
2016 Rueda (Naia) 
2016 Nero d’Avola (Cusumano) 