Newsletter
December 15, 2023 – January 17, 2024
All the best
Able Barolo
2019 Barolo ‘Albe’ (Vajra)
Regular Price $41.99 –
Sale Price $33.99 NET
Vajra is our number one source for red Piedmontese wines. They make one of our favorite Dolcettos, and also Albe, our most affordable and drinkable Barolo. The 2019 nails the distinct “roses and earth” aromatics of the Nebbiolo grape, while having the depth and structure of classic Barolo. Great for a braised brisket with polenta.
Seafaring Saint-Julien
2019 Saint-Julien (Amiral de Beychevelle)
Regular Price $49.99 –
Sale Price $39.99 NET
Amiral de Beychevelle is the second label of the Cru Classé Saint-Julien Château Beychevelle. In 2019 they produced a saturated, dark red with deep fruit, ripe tannins, and admirable structure. A great bottle to open now with a rib roast.
Le Buster Shot
2022 Sancerre ‘Les Monts Damnés/Cuvée Buster’ (Thomas-Labaille)
Regular Price $44.99 –
Sale Price $35.99 NET
Thomas–Labaille’s Sancerre from the imposingly steep Monts Damnés vineyard in the village of Chavignol is always a treat. In a very good year the proprietor will bottle a single vineyard, old vine selection labeled Cuvée Buster and we buy as much as we can. The 2022 is a ripe, rounded Sauvignon Blanc with pear fruit and an earthy undertow of minerality.
Le Mesnil
NV Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs (Le Mesnil)
Regular Price $49.99 –
Sale Price $39.99 NET
The village of Le Mesnil is a Grand Cru site for Champagne made from Chardonnay. Producers like Krug, Salon, and Delamotte make examples with triple-digit prices. Then there is the Cave Cooperative that ensures that this great village has a Grand Cru for the masses. The current release is a bit fuller and richer but retains its racy Blanc de Blancs character. Terrific with smoked fish.
Doubly Drouhin
2020 Puligny-Montrachet Ier Cru ‘Folatières’ (Drouhin)
Regular Price $159.99 –
Sale Price $124.99 NET
2017 Beaune Rouge Ier Cru ‘Grèves’ (Drouhin)
Regular Price $124.99 –
Sale Price $99.99 NET
Drouhin operates both as a négociant and a vineyard owner. Their Puligny Premier Cru Folatières comes mostly from grapes purchased from the legendary Paul Pernot and it is nearly as good as Pernot’s own rendition. The 2020 is a gorgeous white with a deep earthy flavor along with gentle oak and subtle fruit.
Drouhin’s Beaunes are some of the best reds in their portfolio. Clos des Mouches is their signature Beaune, but right behind it is their lovely Premier Cru Grèves. The 2017 is a mature red with incredible depth of fruit and a long minerally finish. A wine of tremendous finesse.
Les Olivets du Sabon
2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape ‘Les Olivets’ (Roger Sabon)
Regular Price $44.99 –
Sale Price $35.99 NET
The Sabon family name is legend in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. We just tasted the newly arrived 2021 Les Olivets and found it delicious. It has a lively herbal aroma, fresh fig fruit, and finishes with olives, minerals, and more herbs. Great for a roasted leg of lamb.
Illahe
2022 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir (Illahe)
Regular Price $31.99 –
Sale Price $24.99 NET
Illahe’s small lot Pinot Noir is excellent in the 2022 vintage. They adhere to strict vineyard principles such as using horses instead of tractors, hand picking the grapes, and employing native yeast fermentation. The result is an earthy and graceful Pinot Noir that is a fine match with salmon.
He’s a Rebholz
2021 Pfalz Weisser Burgunder (Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz)
Regular Price $29.99 –
Sale Price $23.99 NET
Rebholz' wines are unlike those of many other German producers. Words like ethereal, pure, light, and refined are used to describe them. While we’ll gladly drink anything they make, it’s their Weisser Burgunder (Pinot Blanc) that we always return to. The 2021 is a racy beauty with its mouthwatering fruit and endless finish.
Listed prices are honored through January 17th, 2024. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 48, No. 1
The Muga Train
2019 Rioja Crianza ‘El Andén de la Estación’ (Muga)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
The first wineries of Rioja were located near the train station in Haro. These producers were busy shipping their wines to France, where phylloxera had laid waste to the vineyards. Muga’s new Crianza refers to this important part of Rioja history. This 2019 Crianza has a lovely spicy plum aroma along with generous oak and a complex, dry finish. Another excellent traditional Rioja from Muga.
Serious Chianti
2020 Chianti Classico ‘Lamole’ (I Fabbri/Susanna Grassi)
Sale Price $23.99 – $244.70 case of twelve
In Ian D’Agata’s impressive book Italy’s Native Wine Grape Terroirs, he emphatically states that “Chianti Classico is where you’ll find some of Italy’s greatest red wines.”
A favorite producer of his (and ours) is Susanna Grassi of I Fabbri. Her 100% Sangiovese from the Lamole vineyard in the township of Greve is given his highest rating. We concur. The 2020 is a beautiful expression of high-elevation organic Sangiovese from a great site made with minimal intervention. Aromas of violets, cherry, and tea leaves lead to a vibrant palate of spiced fruits and a detailed dry finish.
Primitivo Profile
2021 Primitivo ‘Pilùna’ (Castello Monaci)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Is it Zinfandel or is it Primitivo? How about Tribidrag? DNA profiling has now established that Zinfandel/Primitivo was growing in Croatian vineyards in the 1500s before its journey to Italy and then California. Nonetheless, you’re now much more likely to find good, full-bodied red from Puglia or Sonoma. This month we have Castello Monaci’s delicious Pilùna. The 2021 is dark and fruity with a peppery spice. Great for pizza and BBQ.
Crémant de Bourgogne
NV Crémant de Bourgogne Brut (Dampt Frères)
Sale Price $19.99 – $215.89 case of twelve
Not all occasions call for Champagne, in fact sometimes a simpler sparkling wine can be a fine choice to carry through a multi-course dinner with varied dishes. Our choice this season is the Crémant de Bourgogne from Dampt. Their current release is a blend of Pinot Noir (80%) and Chardonnay, which make a toasty and dry bubbly with zesty lemon and strawberry fruit.
Pessac Rouge
2016 Pessac-Léognan (Domaine de la Grâce d’Ornon)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
Long before the Médoc was dredged and drained, wines from the historic Graves region were being shipped abroad. As the city of Bordeaux grew, the production of Graves shrank. Then in 1987 Graves was split into two. The northern part became Pessac-Léognan and claimed many superior properties including Haut-Brion and Domaine de Chevalier. There are several other fine Pessac-Léognan properties where value can be found. Here we have Domaine de la Grâce d’Ornon, the second label of Pontac-Monplaisir. Their 2016 is a smooth, mature, rich red with a classic earthy and dry finish.
Barbera Superiore
2020 Barbera d’Alba Superiore (Cantina del Pino)
Sale Price $22.99 – $234.50 case of twelve
Cantina del Pino is a cornerstone Barbaresco estate. Fortunately they also make delicious and affordable Dolcetto and Barbera. The house style is one of restraint and lightness. The 2020 Barbera Superiore is juicy and crisp with berry fruit and a lively dry finish. A great food-matching wine with braised stews and polenta.
Gastronomic Alsace
2021 Riesling (Pierre Sparr)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
There is little doubt that
Riesling is one of the greatest white wine grapes. And that Alsace, with all its great vineyards, is one of Riesling’s most neglected regions. Perhaps “French Riesling” just hasn’t made it into the overall wine lexicon. But a good price on a great wine is always a winner. Pierre Sparr’s 2021 dry Riesling is gorgeous with floral scents plus citrus and apple fruit, and is a fine gastronomic match with diverse spicy cuisines.
After Dinner Delight
10 Years Old White Port (Quinta de Santa Eufemia)
Sale Price $23.99 per 500 ml – $259.09 case of twelve
Even though we intend to find a red port to feature during this time of year, we somehow find ourselves gravitating back to the Carvalho family and their delicious white ports. Their 10-year possesses a charming combination of honey, flowers, candied nuts, and golden raisins. With a slight chill, it’s a perfect companion to fruit tarts, rich pâtés, and cheeses such as Comté. We also brought in a limited amount of their 20-year white Port which reveals the kaleidoscopic depth an extra decade of time can create. This is one to enjoy on its own.
Specialty Foods
Fond of Due 2
The storm has finally passed, and the full light of the moon illuminates the freshly fallen snow now shimmering like a blanket of cold diamonds draped gently over the features of neighboring houses. Flashing orange lights from the snowplows in the street fill the room with a strangely comforting glow. Your street, at least, has not been forgotten. You fluff the blanket high up the nape of your neck. You decide that shoveling can wait until morning, as you gently twirl a delicate strand of silky, melted cheese around a cube of toasted bread.
Okay… so we haven’t had any snow yet, but who cares? Fondue is always a good time. Stock up on your favorite alpine cheeses, shut the curtains, and get out the comfy clothes because winter is here!
Gruyère AOP by Michael Spycher $26 per lb
Gruyère 18 Month AOP $24 per lb
Whole Milk Emmentaler $24 per lb
Appenzeller 3 Month AOP $18 per lb
Schnebelhorn Double Crème $24 per lb
Here is our staff favorite fondue recipe.
Enjoy!
• 1 sliver of garlic
• 2 tbsp butter
• 2 tbsp flour (1 tbsp cornstarch for gluten-free)
• 2 cups dry, unoaked white wine
• 1.5+ lb grated alpine cheese
• Salt, pepper, nutmeg
• 1.5 oz kirsch
Rub the inside of the pot with the garlic.
Melt butter in the pan and blend in flour, then add wine. (If using cornstarch, mix with wine first, then add to butter.) Add kirsch. Slowly add cheese, stirring continuously. Once combined, cook until the alcohol has evaporated. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Serve with toast, salami, vegetables (roasted, steamed or pickled), fruit, cookies. . . anything, really.
Get creative!
Wines of the Month — December 15, 2023 through January 17, 2024
2022 Vin de Pays d’Hérault
(Les Hérétiques)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
This southern French blend of Carignan and Grenache is ripe and round with fresh plum and berry fruit.
2022 Mâcon-Villages ‘La Côte Blanche’
(Cave de Lugny)
Sale Price $10.99 – $118.69 case of twelve
The industrious winegrowers of the Cave de Lugny once again deliver a wonderful Mâcon value. Their 2022 unoaked Chardonnay is solidly concentrated and fully dry.
2021 Bordeaux Rouge (Château Grand Billard)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
This might be the last vintage of this wine to sell for under ten dollars. The 2021 is a straightforward earthy and dry Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blend.
2022 Rioja (Prana)
Sale Price $11.99 – $129.49 case of twelve
Prana is a young, fresh style of Rioja made from organically grown Tempranillo. Bright red fruits and an earthy, dry finish make this a versatile light red for seared salmon.