Newsletter
September 15, 2019 – October 14, 2019
Le Capitaine
2018 Vouvray ‘Les Aumones’ (Domaine Le Capitaine)
Sale Price $12.99 – $132.50 case of twelve
Les Aumones is a Vouvray we have carried for decades. We will always remember the warm hospitality and the older vintages offered by Madame and Monsieur Villain. Today the estate is operated by Alain Le Capitaine, who more than capably continues to make this delicious demi-sec Vouvray. The 2018 might be his best version of this cuvée. This off-dry Chenin Blanc with its honey-laced pear fruit and soft chalky earthiness is a Vouvray-only experience.
Saint Vincent
2018 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine ‘Saint Vincent’ (Delhommeau)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
The Delhommeau clan has seriously upped their game with the 2018 Saint Vincent. This 2018 Muscadet is ripe with orchard fruits and deep with fine mineral flavors. Muscadet of this quality is ideal for cod and haddock sprinkled with herbs and served with a simply dressed salad.
Sauvignon Gold
2018 Sancerre (Domaine Raimbault-Pineau)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Whether Sauvignon Blanc originated in Sancerre or not, this Loire Valley village is the primal homeland of this deliciously popular grape. Its worldwide popularity ensures a decent price for all who grow it, but there is still value to be had when standards remain high. Our latest find is the ripe but evenly balanced 2018 from Raimbault-Pineau. It was awarded a gold medal at the Concours Mondiale du Sauvignon.
Pineau D’Aunis
2018 Coteaux du Loir ‘Cuvée du Rosier’ (Pascal Janvier)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Like last month’s white Jasnières, this red Coteaux du Loir from Janvier has benefitted from the excellent conditions of the 2018 harvest with an extra dose of concentration. The Loir (no ‘e’) is a tributary of the Loire. With its raspberry and black pepper flavors, the ancient red grape Pineau d’Aunis invokes feasts of roasted game birds. It will also match the delicious contemporary combination of roasted beets, chèvre, and arugula.
Chinon
2018 Chinon ‘Les Lisons’ (Château de la Bonnelière)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Romo Man
2015 Cour-Cheverny ‘Cuvée Renaissance’ (François Cazin)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
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Listed prices are honored through October 14th, 2019. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 43, No. 10
Viognier, once an expensive rarity, has now become an affordable delight. Trignon’s 2018 is a full-bodied, richly aromatic white that has the ability to match well with spicy cuisines. Wonderful aromas of peaches and lime leaf lead to a weighted palate of intense yet crisp and dry flavors.
The last three vintages of Janasse’s Terre d’Argile have all been excellent. We always marvel at the attention to detail that this branch of the Sabon family put into this Côtes du Rhône Villages. Aside from the absolute deliciousness of the wine, they bottle it in heavy glass, use an expensive long cork, and sell it in a wooden box. This is their not-so-subtle way of advertising the vineyard as the equal of many producers of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The blend features a healthy dose of Mourvedre (30%), giving it more structure and spice.
Way back in 1997 Robert Parker gave Domaine du Cayron five stars, making it one of only three properties in the Gigondas appellation to receive his highest rating. A lot has changed in Gigondas since then. Prices have shot up and many producers now make single-vineyard special cuvées to justify these prices. But not at Domaine du Cayron. For over 175 years the Faraud family has made this one wine. It is a dark, lusty red with plenty of rustic charm. The 2015 vintage probably tastes just like the 1978 vintage (both were great years). Parker concludes his profile of the Domaine by stating that “Properly served and matched up with the right culinary offering, they are memorable wines that can take one on a pleasant trip to the nineteenth century.” We interpret this as a suggestion to open the bottle a couple of hours before serving with a fine cut of beef or lamb. That is, if you don’t have a source for venison or boar.
The Sang des Cailloux always lives up to its poetic name. The 2015 does taste like the blood of stones from this biodynamic estate in Vacqueyras. Grenache dominates, with its plummy fruit accented by herbs of the garrigue and a stony, dry finish. If you feel anemic and want a deep, dark Southern Rhone experience here is your transfusion.
Chile’s Valle del Itata is a rediscovered area to the south of the main growing areas. The 2018 Terra Pura Pinot Noir has a depth of fruit and a cool, dry finish. It represents extremely good value in Pinot Noir.
2016 Ribera del Duero (Emilio Moro) 
The Sanguineto estate is not a monoculture wine property like many in Tuscany. Here the land also produces wheat and olives. The wine produced is an ultra-traditional blend of Prugnolo Gentile, Canaiolo Nera, and Mammolo. There is no new oak, only natural yeast fermentation and very little if any sulfur. This way of winemaking has been passed down from generation to generation with little deviation. The 2016 starts with lively cherry fruit and spicy tannins. After some breathing time the wine unfolds with waves of richness, ripeness, and a full, long finish. This is a delicious red that a bit of patience will reward.
To the north of the famous village of Pomerol lies the value appellation of Lalande-de-Pomerol. Here one gets an earlier drinking window and much of the incredible quality of the Merlot grape grown in this part of Bordeaux. Chateau Beaulieu’s 2016 is a gorgeous dry red with fresh raspberry and plum fruit and an earthy truffle-scented finish. The soft tannins and ripe flavors will match well with a dish of sautéed mushrooms and a seared tenderloin.
Cowgirl Creamery was founded in the 90s by two friends with extensive experience in San Francisco’s restaurant industry. When Sue Conley and Peggy Smith paired up to launch a specialty food distribution business, they found themselves renting a space north of San Francisco that included a cheesemaking room, so, naturally, they started making cheese. Years later they have a national presence and an established reputation for their award-winning cheeses. As they continue to innovate, one of their newest products is Hop Along, a semi-firm cheese made from organic cow’s milk. Washed in cider and aged for 45 days, the texture is smooth and pliant. With a bright, grassy aroma and rich flavors of sweet cream and honey, it’s a perfect fall cheese to pair with cider or beer.
Last month we featured Mystic’s new blue cheese, Bowhead Blue. This month we have another new offering from them: Finback. Comparisons to English classics like Lancashire or Caerphilly are apt for this cow’s milk cheese, which has aged for around 3 months. The texture is dense and extremely crumbly, and the flavor is clean and tart with an underlying brown butter sweetness. And as with the Bowhead Blue, a salty finish evokes the creamery’s seaside location. Try this drizzled with honey. 
Granted AOP status in 1980, Ossau-Iraty is a traditional sheep’s milk cheese from the Basque region of France. Though AOP regulations govern key facets of production (such as specifying that milk must come only from Manech and Basco-Béarnaise breeds of sheep), there are slight variations depending on the region and producer. Onetik is a smaller producer of traditional Basque cheeses, located in the town of Macaye at the foot of the Pyrenees. Theirs is aged 6 months and is an exemplary Ossau-Iraty, balanced and complex. Flavors of sweet cream, caramel, and hazelnuts mingle in the alluringly smooth and creamy paste of this semi-firm cheese. 
2017 Chianti Montalbano (Pierazzuoli) 
2016 Côtes du Rhône ‘Elégance’ (La Bouvade) 
2018 Rueda (Marqués de Cáceres) 