Nebbiolo calls Freisa Daddy
2021 Langhe Freisa (Giacomo Borgogno)
Sale Price $35.99 – $367.10 case of twelve
Wine grapes mutate frequently, and now that DNA testing is available it’s fascinating to learn how some grape varieties may have come into existence. In the case of Freisa it has been revealed that this old Piedmontese grape variety is a parent of Nebbiolo and also shares a close genetic relationship with Viognier. Freisa is not exactly a rare grape variety; it is used to make sparkling wine, included in blends all over Piedmont, and it contributes to Vermouth production. But just a few producers persist in making a still, dry Freisa and Borgogno is one of the finest. Their 2021 is an exciting dry red. It is highlighted by its wild red fruit fragrance along with crisp acidity and gripping tannins. It is fitting that one of Piedmont’s oldest wineries, dating to 1761, persists with one of its oldest varieties. Try this with stuffed pasta and soft, runny cheeses.

Purple Passion
2023 Dolcetto d’Alba ‘Dei Grassi’ (Elio Grasso)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
While we can never get enough of Dolcetto in gen1eral, we can never get enough, literally, of Elio Grasso’s Dolcetto. We assert (with no evidence) that we buy more of this wine than any other store in the state, and yet we still frequently find ourselves out of stock. After a long absence, it is back in the 2023 vintage, and we hope there is enough to last. You wouldn’t expect that a humble Dolcetto would be that difficult to acquire, but that is a testament to the quality of the wine. Grasso uses no oak during fermentation or maturation of their Dolcetto, wanting to focus on the purity of the fruit. The 2023 is an aromatic and vibrant medium-bodied red, with flavors of black cherry, plums, spices, and violets. The focused acidity, fine tannins, and hint of earthy bitterness on the dry finish make this a natural for food. We’ll be enjoying it with a hearty vegetable lasagna filled with tomatoes, eggplant, zucchini, and mushrooms.

Screamin’ Pinot
2022 Sonoma Pinot Noir (Banshee)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
This is Banshee’s most important Pinot Noir and they treat it that way. The grapes come from excellent Sonoma sites such as Petaluma Gap, Los Carneros, and Russian River. This 2022 has a mellow oak flavor along with ripe cherry and raspberry fruit. A fine red for a roast chicken and couscous.

Nîmes Syrah
2021 Costières de Nîmes ‘Terre d’Argence’
(Château Mourgues du Grès)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
For at least a decade, we have featured the reliably delicious rosé of the Rhône producer, Mourgues du Grès. This past spring we were able to taste some of their reds that had yet to arrive to market. Our favorite was their 2021 Terre d’Argence, which we gladly pre-ordered. The wait is finally over with this Syrah-Grenache blend arriving in time for our transition into fall. No sulfur was used during production of this certified biodynamic red except for minimal amounts during bottling. After an hour’s worth of breathing, the Terre d’Argence reveals aromas of violet and olive leaf that lead into flavors of marionberry, herbs, and cocoa. There’s an almost imperceptible current of smoke and leather as well. It’s a red that can be aged up to eight years or enjoyed now with grilled lamb loin rubbed with rosemary and garlic.

Poulsard
2022 Arbois Poulsard ‘Vieilles Vignes’ (Domaine Rolet)
Sale Price $27.99 – $285.50 case of twelve
We’ve always appreciated the wines of Domaine Rolet, but their prices—though typical for Jura wines—prevented us from offering them next to more famous producers. So when we found out that their current distributor was parting ways with the organic domaine and had inventory to move, we jumped at their new closeout prices (hence last month’s feature of their Chardonnay). Unfortunately, that means that we have a very limited supply of their Poulsard which we expect to sell out. While wines made from the Poulsard grape are known for their delicate and floral aromas, this particular one’s nose has an earthy funk that belies its rich cherry and pomegranate fruit. A slight prickle and pleasant pith-like bitterness act as a counterpoint to its lush fruit. Definitely give this light red a slight chill to bring out its charm.

Palacios' Priorat
2022 Priorat ‘Camins del Priorat’ (Alvaro Palacios)
Sale Price $27.99 – $285.50 case of twelve
Located two hours south of Barcelona, the region of Priorat is known for its big and concentrated reds. The producers who excel are the ones who can find balance within Priorat’s intensity. One such producer is Alvaro Palacios, who was instrumental in establishing the region on the international wine map. The Camins del Priorat is his best-priced wine and it showcases how finesse can coexist with power. The 2022 is a silky blend of Garnacha (aka Grenache), Samsó (aka Carignan), Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah which, due to its seamless tannins, is ready to drink upon opening. It is full of black plum preserves and notes of licorice and savory herbs. A grilled stuffed portobello or a rib eye make for a lovely match to this dark, juicy red.