Our annual run for Riesling yielded great value wines once again. Heyden, Schneider, Bollig-Lehnert, and Binz display the spectrum of German Riesling from bone-dry to fruity/zesty to honeyed/crisp to richly sweet to decadently dessert-like.
Kalk und Rotliegenden
2014 Riesling Vom Kalk Trocken (Georg Albrecht Schneider)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
2014 Riesling Vom Rotliegenden Trocken (Georg Albrecht Schneider)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve Like the 2013s we featured last year from Schneider, these 2014s express the delicious difference in dry Riesling when it’s grown on limestone and red clay soils. This time the 2014 Kalk has more intensity of earthy, minerally dryness, while the Rotliegenden shows a softer, broader palate of pleasing stone fruits with a spicy finish. Thanks again to the Schneiders for bringing great value and a delicious lesson in terroir. These dry Rieslings are terrific wines for pairing with spicy foods and shellfish.
Beerenauslese
2015 Nackenheimer Engelsberg Riesling Beerenauslese (Binz)
Sale Price $19.99 per 375 ml – $203.90 case of twelve Here we have a great value in dessert wine. It helps that 2015 is turning into a great vintage in
Germany and wines like
Beerenauslese rarely come to
market. This is lusciously sweet, with tropical fruit and a long,
expansive finish of rich fig and pear fruit.Have this with a strawberry and rhubarb tart.
Golden Mosel
2014 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese
(Bollig-Lehnert)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve The Goldtröpfchen may not be the Mosel’s best vineyard, but it may be its most consistently excellent vineyard. The terrific steep south southeast exposure achieves ripe fruit and minerality year after year. The Gold in Goldtröpfchen is apt in that this 2014 Spätlese from Bollig-Lehnert tastes like a ripe peach with a drizzle of honey laced with gold filament. Do not discount this semi-sweet wine as a food companion. Try it with spicy curries of all description.
Heyden Seek
2015 Oppenheimer Riesling Kabinett (Dr. Heyden)
Sale Price $9.99 – $101.90 case of twelve This Rheinhessen Riesling
is a textbook Kabinett with crisp apple fruit and zesty minerality. A semi-dry white, it will be a fine match with summer salads and corn.
Glorious Auslese
2011 Niersteiner Hipping Riesling Auslese (Georg Albrecht Schneider)
Sale Price $15.99 – $163.10 case of twelve Last fall we featured this wine in a half-bottle size. We wish we could offer that format again, but now only the full bottle size is available. It’s still an incredibly delicious Auslese with ripe. complex fruit and a stunning long finish.
Listed prices are honored through July 14th, 2016. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 40, No. 7
Nimes, Corsica, and Provence
2015 Costières de Nîmes Rosé ‘Les Galets Rosés’ (Château Mourgues du Grès)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve A long-time favorite and great value, Les Galets Rosés is a cool, crisp rosé with a stony dryness centering its subtle, peachy fruit.
2015 Corse Rosé (Domaine Petroni)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve From the stunningly beautiful island of Corsica comes this wonderfully herbal and dry rosé made from Niellucciu, Sciaccarellu, and Grenache.
2015 Bandol Rosé (Domaine Dupuy de Lôme)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve Our favorite organic Bandol Rosé is also our least expensive. Dupuy de Lôme has a strict dry intensity from beginning to end, making it perfect for a grilled whole fish stuffed with fennel.
2015 Côtes de Provence Rosé (Château Pradeaux)
Sale Price $21.99 – $224.30 case of twelve Pradeaux is a Bandol producer who also makes a peachy, zesty Côtes de Provence Rosé. This is forward and full in flavor with a long, intense, completely dry finish. Perfect for grilled tuna and tapenade.
Lirac Rouge
2013 Lirac Rouge (Roger Sabon)
Sale Price $15.99 – $163.10 case of twelve Lirac is where Châteauneuf-du-Pape vignerons now go to buy less expensive vineyards. Roger Sabon’s 2013 Lirac is a dark, full Rhone blend with lively floral aromas and herbal spice. Great for lamb on the grill and a smoky ratatouille.
Menetou-Salon
2014 Menetou-Salon ‘Les Bornés’ (Domaine Henry Pellé)
Sale Price $14.99 - $152.90 case of twelve Observant readers will recognize this domaine, as we offered their rosé last month to great reception. Well, it was this white from Menetou-Salon that first enchanted us with Domaine Henry Pellé. At its original price, it was a revelation, with flavors of minerals and lemon set in a creamy texture with a hint of intriguing flint. Its long saline finish cries out for oysters. At this new price, it’s our best Sauvignon Blanc steal.
Haut-Savoie
2014 Chignin-Bergeron ‘Les Cantates’ (Les Fils de René Quénard)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve Among our selection of Savoie whites, this Roussanne (or Bergeron in the local dialect) from the commune of Chignin stands out for its depth and richness. A beautiful golden color foretells a mouth-filling weight that is surprisingly elegant. Honeysuckle and woodsy spice fill the nose. This vintage of Domaine les Cantates has a bit more succulence than vintages past, but by no means is it overly ripe, thanks to its cool alpine origin. It’s a white for either fish or meat, grilled swordfish or roast chicken. For those who prefer more texture and weight in their white wines without sacrificing finesse, this is your wine.
Cab Franc
2014 Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame ‘Les Petites Roches’ (Cave de Saumur)
Sale Price $15.99 – $163.10 case of twelve We love Saumur Cabernet Franc for its versatility with an array of foods and its sheer deliciousness on its own. Le Puy-Notre-Dame gained appellation status in 2009 and is known for producing heftier, concentrated examples of the wine. The 2014 from the Cave de Saumur features briary red fruit, a nose reminiscent of licorice and tea, and a powerful, long finish. Try this with duck breast in a cherry sauce.
Les Bordeaux
2012 Castillon (Château Roche-Mezières)
Sale Price $9.99 – $101.90 case of twelve Comprised of 70% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc, Château La Roche Mezières exemplifies the splendid value Castillon is awash with. Prunes and plums lead this structured, aromatic wine with plenty of verve and tannin. Perfect with a myriad of steak preparations.
2012 Graves (Château Beauregard-Ducasse)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve Bordeaux typically has a reputation for needing a long time to become fully enjoyable. Well, here’s one to enjoy tonight. The 2012 Beauregard Ducasse smells like a stew of red fruits and tastes of black cherry. Firm, dry tannins support this mid-weight delight.
Montefalco Riserva
2010 Montefalco Riserva (Perticaia)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 of twelve Montefalco is Umbria’s capital of red wine, and the Umbrian grape that delivers the most flavor is Sagrantino. With only 250 acres of Sagrantino planted, it is doled out judiciously. There are single-vineyard bottlings of Sagrantino di Montefalco that need years to develop, but Perticaia has released a 2010 Montefalco Riserva that shows the spicy, tannic side of Sagrantino softened by Sangiovese. To us this drinks like a mature Montalcino wine at a much lower price. Its cherry fruit and deep earthy tannins make it perfect for a grilled duck breast along with some sautéed chicory.
Specialty Foods
Heublumen $21.99 per lb.
(Regular price $25.99) We know it may be a little unconventional to promote an alpine-style cheese in the warmer months, but this raw cow’s milk delicacy was created by Swiss cheesemaker Thomas Stadelman to celebrate hay season. Covered in fresh grass from surrounding pasture, this cheese is indeed grassy, but also mellow and creamy with the nuttiness one expects from a good Swiss cheese.
Porter $18.99 per lb.
(Regular price $20.99) From 5 Spoke Creamery in New York, this is the tangiest Tomme-style cheese we have ever tasted. Porter is a true farmstead cheese, made with the raw milk of grass-fed, closed-herd Holstein cows, and free of antibiotics and hormones. Lightly pressed, with a semi-hard paste, and aged 3-4 months, it resembles a Tomme de Savoie, but it’s uniquely different.
Fleur Verte $20.99 per lb.
(Regular price $23.99) Fleur Verte, which translates to ‘Green Flower,’ is a scalloped-edged wheel of fresh French goat cheese covered with herbs and pink peppercorns. This is the kind of cheese to enjoy on your porch with a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc and a nice breeze. It adds a touch of elegance and a pop of color to a cheese platte.
Bavaria Blue $13.99 per lb.
(Regular price $14.99) Pasteurized triple-cream with white and blue mold produced with the highest quality milk from the Bavarian Alps, Bavaria Blue is handmade without any
additives or preservatives. Rich and buttery with a complex blue flavor. You’ll love this if you’re a
fan of Cambozola.
Wines of the Month — June 15, 2016 through July 14, 2016
2015 Bordeaux Rouge (Château Barrail-Meyney)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve This early arrival from Bordeaux confirms the quality of the 2015 vintage with its ripe berry fruit and soft tannins.
2015 Silvaner (Dr. Heyden)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve This is one of our absolute favorite German values. The 2015 old-vine Silvaner from Dr. Heyden is crisp and dry with a sneaky intensity.
2015 Orvieto Classico ‘Vignarco’ (Palazzone)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve Orvieto is Umbria’s great value white. The 2015 Vignarco is an intense dry white with apricot fruit and a firm dry finish.
2015 Pinot Noir (Moulin de Gassac)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve Moulin de Gassac in the Pays d’Oc of the south of France has again made a lively, fresh, earthy, dry Pinot Noir. At 12%, this gentle wine with its subtle fruit and overall dryness will be a fine match with chicken or fish.