Newsletter
May 15, 2013 – June 14, 2013
Roséville
Last year we sold an astonishing amount of rosé, and this year we expect to sell more. Rosé is fresh and versatile, an extremely good value, and continues to improve in quality. It also has great potential to gain in complexity, as we learned on our visit to the Coteaux du Vendômois, where the fabulous Pineau d’Aunis grape is used to make white, gris, rosé, and red wines with wonderfully blurry lines of distinction.
Listed prices are honored through June14th. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 37, No. 6
Near Perfect 10s
A Great Bordeaux Vintage
Bordeaux will always be able to supply large quantities of hearty dry reds, but when two vintages of such high quality as 2009 and 2010 follow each other there is value to be found in the latter vintage. In our opinion the 2009s are dramatic and the 2010s are classic. These need not be aged, but they will improve over the next five years.
2010 Médoc Cru Bourgeois (Château Tour St. Bonnet)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
From a blend of equal parts Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon plus a 10% dollop of Petit Verdot the winemakers at Tour Saint Bonnet have produced an excellent, earthy, dry red with a leafy, woodsy feel to it. Perfect with a lovely slab of Roquefort or a steak. Half bottles available.
2010 Haut Médoc Cru Bourgeois (Château D’Aurilhac)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
Château D’Aurilhac has made a rich, full-bodied Haut Médoc with a sturdy dose of oak to complement its ripe, smoky fruit. This will drink well until 2020. Packed in a wooden crate; half bottles available.
2010 Haut Médoc Cru Bourgeois (Château Beaumont)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
Beaumont’s 2010 is an old school Bordeaux with pronounced tannins and an overall dry, earthy character. We admire it for its adherence to a traditional style of Cabernet Sauvignon-heavy Bordeaux. Half bottles available.
Bargain Cab Franc
2011 Bourgeuil ‘Lucien Lamé’ (Lamé Deslisle Boucard)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Lucien Lamé was a WW II prisoner from 1939 to 1945. Knowing this we were honored to have tasted the 1949 Bourgeuil and other old vintages in the family’s atmospheric cave. This is an amazing winery. On this visit we also tasted a different bottling that had great structure and a beautiful finish. The 2011 Lucien Lamé is a gorgeous Cabernet Franc and, as always, a great value. Start with the pink from the front page and follow with this lovely red; and if you want an older and even more wonderful red from Lamé Delisle Boucard buy some of the 2009 Cuvée Prestige and cellar it for a few years.
Gris et Blanc
2012 Coteaux du Vendômois ‘Gris’ (Patrice Colin)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
2012 Coteaux du Vendômois ‘Pierre à Feu’ (Patrice Colin)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Our tasting with Madame Colin yielded four worthy and affordable wines. But when we asked Madame the difference between her two rosés she informed us in no uncertain terms that they only make one rosé. The above wine, their gris, is not a rosé. It is a gris. The Gris Bodin on the front page is their rosé. Nonetheless they are both delicious. The Bodin is a single-vineyard wine made from eighty-year-old vines and has deeper color. The Gris is made from younger vines and is not macerated, meaning that it is made from the free-run juice of the Pineau d’Aunis, and hence is lighter and fresher. So it’s a peppery, almost-white-nearly-pink made from a light red grape with an interesting color. We get it now. Merci, Madame. The Pierre à Feu is less confusing. It is a white wine made from Chenin Blanc. This very dry wine is mineral-laden and stingingly crisp. This is a perfect match for a salmon dish covered with fine herbs.
Snakes in the Vineyard
2010 Savigny-lès-Beaune Premier Cru ‘Aux Serpentières’ (Domaine Pierre Guillemot)
Sale Price $44.99 – $458.90 case of twelve
This is one of the great wines of Savigny-lès-Beaune, both in producer and vineyard. Pierre Guillemot has made stunning wines for decades. Serpentières is one of the best Premier Crus in all of the Côte de Beaune. We adore it because when you look at the light scarlet color of this wine you are unprepared for the intensity of its flavor. In this nearly weightless wine there is minerality, tannic structure, and wonderful scents of violets. In his 1982 book on Burgundy, Anthony Hansen reports that “each year at harvest Pierre Guillemot swears at his old vines in Aux Serpentières, ‘You disgust me with your miserable yield. I’ll pull you up.’ Then he tastes the wine.”
Hilly Siena
2011 Chianti Colli Senesi (Fontaleoni)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
We buy this in nearly every vintage and once again Fontaleoni has delivered a Chianti Colli Senesi that is worth every penny. The 2011 is redolent of cherries and cedar wood with a nice dry finish.
Sauvignon Val de Loire
2012 Val de Loire Sauvignon (Chidain)
Sale Price $12.99 – $132.50 case of twelve
If you think you want to be a grape grower and winemaker do not ask Francois Chidaine about his 2012 vintage. His production of Montlouis and Vouvray was almost entirely wiped out by the horrible weather in that section of the Loire. Fortunately he has some of his older vintages and some negociant wines to keep him afloat. The 2012 Sauvignon Blanc is a textbook crisp, dry Loire Valley white. It will be perfect with a salad with chèvre and walnuts.
Guido’s Big Brother – Loreto
2010 Nebbiolo d’Alba ‘Loreto’ (Guidobono)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
The Barbera d’Alba and Langhe Nebbiolo from Guidobono are so popular that we don’t need to promote them, but in case you have forgotten about them we have both for $11.99 per bottle. Meanwhile we are delighted to have this more serious Nebbiolo d’Alba to offer. For just a few dollars more Loreto is darker, richer, and more powerful. Dare we say that it is almost like a Barolo?
The Many Grapes of Orvieto
2012 Orvieto Classico ‘Terre Vineate’ (Palazzone)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Just by the color you can see that Palazzone’s Orvieto is very different from most other Umbrian whites. The 2012 Terre Vineate is a rich white with deep, long flavors. This estate wine eschews the productive Trebbiano grape, preferring instead more difficult but more intense low-yielding varieties. Grechetto is currently enjoying its star turn as a stand-alone Umbrian white. Here it is joined by Procanico, Verdello, Malvasia, and Drupeggio. This white is packed with many kinds of fruit and flower aromas and flavors.
Serpentine Fire
2010 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie ‘Butte de la Roche/Terre de Pierre’ (Pierre Luneau Papin)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
Amazingly there are wine lovers who don’t believe in the French notion of terroir – the intermingling of climate, geology, and grape variety. We believe that this wine should make converts. The Butte de la Roche vineyard is laden with the volcanic Serpentine rock. Serpentine occurs in sub-oceanic eruptions and it takes millions of years for it to reach the surface. It is also the state rock of California. So here we have a large chunk of it in the Sèvre et Maine on which is planted the Melon/Muscadet grape variety. The 2010 vintage is excellent and may well be the richest, densest, most intriguing Muscadet you will ever taste. This wine exemplifies terroir, of a rather unique kind, writ very large.
Sale Dates
Friday May 24th through Monday June 3rd
Please note that we are closed on
Memorial Day, May 27th.
Details: 10% off six bottles; 20% off twelve bottles. Wines of the Month (back page), fortified wines (Port, Sherry, Vermouth, etc.), and sparkling wines may be included for a 10% discount. Blue tagged (NET) and Jug wines (1.5L and 3L) are excluded.
Wines of the Month — May 15, 2013 through June 14, 2013
2012 Chenin Blanc + Viognier (Pine Ridge)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.90 case of twelve
Pine Ridge’s nifty blend of Chenin Blanc (80%) and Viognier is particularly juicy in the 2012 vintage. This will match well with spicy tropical and vegetarian fare.
2012 Rueda ‘Verdejo’ (Marqués de Irún)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
Rueda is the favored wine-by-the-glass in taverns all over Spain. The 2012 Marqués de Irún is a lively Verdejo with mint and fennel flavors accented by apple-like fruit. Great with crab and lobster.
2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Avalon)
Sale Price $7.99 – $86.29 case of twelve
Avalon has always made a great value Cabernet, but in the 2011 it is an exceptional value in a smooth, rich, dark red from California. Think ribs and spicy flank steak tacos.
2011 Sangiovese di Toscana (Fulignano)
Sale Price $7.99 – $86.29 case of twelve
This smoky, earthy Tuscan red is definitely old world with its dry finish and its subtle fruit. Pizza, pasta, burgers.