Newsletter
July 19, 2023 – August 14, 2023
Bold Whites for Big Summer Flavors
Hopefully everyone is taking their vacations seriously this year, staying cool and drinking interesting wine. These are our best selections for bluefish, striped bass, lobster, and corn, corn, corn.
Côtes d’Auxerre
2022 Bourgogne Blanc ‘Côtes d’Auxerre’ (Domaine Sorin Coquard)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Here's our 'find' of the year in white Burgundy. Sorin Coquard's Côtes d'Auxerre is Chablis-like with a bracing and crisp texture and flinty aromas. Its melon and peach fruit carry the long dry finish. Lovely with scallops.
Good Old Graves
2020 Graves Blanc (Château Les Clauzots)
Sale Price $15.99 – $163.10 case of twelve
The historic district of Graves is being absorbed by the city of Bordeaux itself. Fortunately, there are still some estates making charming white and red Graves. The Atlantic climate is evident in this classic dry white. The Sauvignon Blanc provides zesty fruit while the Sémillon gives heft. The result is a dry white with direct citrus fruit and a full-on minerally dry finish. Enjoy with roasted haddock and new potatoes.
Sainte-Agnès
2021 Languedoc Blanc ‘Cuvée Sainte-Agnès’ (Ermitage du Pic Saint Loup)
Sale Price $23.99 – $244.70 case of twelve
In our opinion this wine should have its own appellation. It’s a magnificent fully malolactic oak-aged mix of the great white grapes of the south of France. The meaty Roussanne (50%) takes center stage while Grenache Gris and Blanc, Marsanne, and Clairette contribute subtle yet complex filler. Delightful with a simple lobster dinner and fresh corn.
A Parade of White Rhône
2022 Côtes du Rhône Blanc ‘Grande Réserve’ (Château Beauchene)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
Beauchene’s Rhône Blanc is a peachy mix of full-flavored Rhône grapes, resulting in a textured and lively white for a roast chicken and ratatouille.
Alto Cool
2021 Alto Adige Weissburgunder (J. Hofstätter)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Northern Italy’s Alto Adige is a vertical garden of grapes. Each grape variety grown there thrives at a different elevation. We just wish that the Weissburgunder/Pinot Bianco finds more growing room. We have featured this before, but it remains such a bargain that we offer it again. The 2021 J. Hofstätter Pinot Bianco has crunchy orchard fruit and a cool minerally finish. A great wine with risotto.
Sonoma Coast
2018 Sonoma Coast Chardonnay (Patz & Hall)
Sale Price $29.99 – $305.90 case of twelve
A gracious offer from one of our distributors allows us to reduce the price by 10 dollars for this generous Sonoma Coast Chardonnay. The 2018 Patz & Hall is buttery and rich with ample oak and a smooth, long, mouth-filling finish. Pairs wonderfully with crab cakes.
Listed prices are honored through August 14th, 2023. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 47, No. 8
The Pink and the Blue Danube
We all know of the great white wines produced in Austria, but the reds have shown incredible improvement. Interesting grapes like Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch are leading the way.
2022 Rosé (Landhaus Mayer)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Landhaus Mayer is a leading Viennese wine maker, but the grapes for their delicious Zweigelt rosé come from lower Austria. The fresh strawberry aromas and crisp dryness make this delicious for a cool dinner of salad, cheese, and charcuterie.
2019 Burgenland ‘zb*’ (Gesellmann)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
The Burgenland in eastern Austria has a fine climate for red grapes. Gesellmann’s zb* is a deep, dark blend of Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch, and Pinot Noir. Herbs, cherries, and plums dominate the palate alongside a gently tannic finish. A fine red for BBQ and grilled meats.
2021 Blaufränkisch ‘Heideboden’ (Paul Achs)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
Paul Achs’ Blaufränkisch reminds us of French red Burgundy. The Heideboden is charming with its splendid raspberry aromas and earthy forest floor flavors. It’s also organic, biodynamic, and vegan friendly. Give it a slight chill and it will match well with a poached salmon and potato salad.
Northern Spanish Rosés
We’ve given plenty of attention to French rosés over the last few newsletters, but these fine Spanish rosados are equally deserving of a place at the table, especially as the summer heat bears down and the best summer foods are on offer.
2022 Rioja Rosado (Muga)
Sale Price $15.99 – $163.10 case of twelve
Over the years Muga has consistently produced a good value and flavorful Rioja rosado. The 2022 may be their most refined vintage to date, yet the price has barely budged. Made from Garnacha and Viura, this has white cranberry, peach, and rose petal aromas with a concentrated palate and a fresh, zesty, dry finish. Serve with a hearty seafood paella and a mixed green salad.
2022 Getariako Txakolina Rosado (Txomin Etxaniz)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
The wines of Txakoli in Spain’s Basque country on the northern coast just may be the perfect summer wines. Though the zesty and minerally whites are deservedly popular, we also like the rosés for their refreshment and versatility with food. The 2022 Txomin Etxaniz is packed with white peach, watermelon, and rhubarb heightened with a refreshing dash of salinity. Pour from high to accentuate the slight spritz in this lively rosé, which makes a delightful apéritif alongside jamón, olives, and cheese.
God of Fire and Red Sauce
2021 Vino Rosso ‘Sabbia Vulcanica’ (Agnanum)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
The Agnanum winery in western Naples is nestled inside a volcanic crater. There are several other craters in the area; one of these, the Solfatara, is the mythological home to Vulcan, the Roman god of fire. Which is something the Napa Valley cannot claim. The old Piedirosso vines at Agnanum grow in sabbia vulcanica (volcanic sand). Though usually blended with Aglianico, Piedirosso can stand on its own as a ready to drink varietal. This 2021 is soft and fragrant with bright plummy fruit and an earthy, dry finish. Have this with peak of summer tomatoes and pasta.
Sangiovese Classico Organico
2019 Chianti Classico (Ormanni)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
The Ormanni estate has been in existence since the 13th century. The Brini family has been holding down the fort since 1818. Today they are producers of excellent organic Chianti Classico made purely from Sangiovese. The 2019 is a ripe cherry-fruited delight with crisp tannins and a long bright finish. An excellent match with summer’s bounty of tomatoes and zucchini.
Châteauneuf-du-Lirac
2020 Lirac ‘Charles Ier’ (Usseglio)
Sale Price $27.99 – $285.50 case of twelve
For a long time Châteauneuf-du-Pape was our favorite Southern Rhône red. Then it became too expensive and, frankly, too heavy. We began to look to other appellations to replace it, and have found that Cairanne and Lirac do the job well. Usseglio continues to make excellent age-worthy Châteauneuf, but it is their Charles Ier Lirac that we want to drink. The 2020, made from organic old vine Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre, is deep and dark but retains fresh fruit and herbal flavors. Perfect with grilled lamb chops.
Specialty Foods
Maxorata PDO — $22.99 per lb
Queso Majorero – Fuerteventura, Canary Islands
Spain’s Canary Islands are an archipelago located off the coast of northwestern Africa. Maxorata PDO is produced from the milk of the Majorero breed of goats which are unique to these volcanic islands. The cheese is creamy and tangy with a lightly grassy flavor. With its mild flavor and well-balanced acidity, this versatile and easy-eating cheese is perfect for snacking solo or entertaining.
Ameribella — $29.99 per lb
Jacobs and Brichford – Connersville, IN
Ameribella is a raw-milk, washed-rind cheese inspired by cheeses of northern Italy (such as Taleggio) and which features a striking golden and buttery paste. The incredible color and zesty, complex flavors are the result of the grasses and wildflowers on which their single herd of cows graze. This is the first batch of the 2023 milking season!
L’Etivaz AOP Alpage, aged 12 months — $24.99 per lb (Regular Price $29.99)
Gourmino Cooperative – Switzerland
In 1932 a small group of Gruyère makers broke off from the herd. Disaffected by modernization efforts pushed by ‘Big Gruyère’ these cheesemakers doubled down on traditional production methods. Each batch of fresh summer milk is hand-stirred in copper kettles over a wood fire before being pressed and aged at an altitude of over 2000 meters. Sure, Gruyère is great, but L’Etivaz is for lovers.
Foxglove (8 oz piece) — $14.99 each
Tulip Tree – Indianapolis, IN
Hailing from Indianapolis, Tulip Tree Creamery has been making delicious and award-winning cheeses since 2014. Foxglove is a beer-washed soft cheese. The delightfully funky (and pungent!) exterior combined with the rich double cream body provides a beautiful bite for the slightly more adventurous cheese enthusiast.
Wines of the Month — July 19, 2023 through August 14, 2023
2021 Orvieto Classico ‘Vignarco’ (Palazzone)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89
case of twelve
Palazzone’s introduction level Orvieto Vignarco is a delightful apricot-scented, full-flavored dry white. Gorgeous with scampi and summery salads.
2022 Pays d’Hérault Rosé (Moulin de Gassac)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
This southern French rosé is a summer refresher with berry fruit and a cool, dry finish. Have with poached salmon.
2021 Côtes de Gascogne Blanc (Bergeyre Labadie)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
White Gascogne blends are snappy and floral. Bergeyre Labadie’s is a lively blend of Colombard and Sauvignon Blanc, with grapefruit and herbs mixing in with a crisp, dry finish.
2017 Madiran (Château Peyros)
Sale Price $11.99 – $129.49 case of twelve
Madiran is a terrific and underrated French red. We’ve featured Peyros’ 2017 before. It’s still delicious and perfect for grilled foods.