Newsletter
May 18, 2022 – June 19, 2022
Bourgueil
2021 Bourgueil Rosé
(Lamé-Delisle-Boucard)
Sale Price $12.99 – $132.50 case of twelve
Nîmes
2021 Costières de Nîmes Rosé (Château Mourgues du Grès)
Sale Price $12.99 – $132.50 case of twelve
This has long been one of our favorite ‘darker’ rosés. Mourgues du Grès is polished, smooth, full-flavored, and dry. Have this with grilled swordfish and olives.
Provence
2021 Côtes de Provence Rosé (Sainte Croix)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
Pays d’Oc
2021 Pays d’Oc Rosé (Le Petit Balthazar)
Sale Price $8.99 – $91.70 case of twelve
Touraine
2021 Touraine Rosé (Les Vendanges de F. Chidaine)
Sale Price $15.99 – $163.10 case of twelve
Pays d’Hérault
2021 Pays d’Hérault Rosé (Moulin de Gassac)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Listed prices are honored through June 19th, 2022. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 46, No. 6
The last few years of French viticulture have been filled with tales of climate change-driven woe. 2021’s growing season was marked by frost and mildew, leading to the smallest harvest nationwide in decades. In the Loire, Sancerre was hit with record-breaking heat which was followed by prolonged frost, reducing yields by 50%. The grapes that producers were able to salvage, however, were of extremely high quality, resulting in Sauvignon Blancs with the low alcohol and vibrant acidity that were hallmarks of classic Sancerres of the past. Thus the sudden jump in prices of the 2021 vintage. At $24.99, the Dauny ‘Caillottes’ is at the value end of the price spectrum. Its price is all the more impressive considering that it is organic as those practices are costly to implement. This wine selling out is not a matter of ‘if’ but ‘how soon,’ especially given how good it is, which is no surprise as the Dauny family has been cultivating grapes for thirteen generations. The smell of stones after a rainfall hits the nose immediately and courses throughout its refreshing palate to a finish that deliciously lingers. As the wine warms up, lemony citrus fruit emerges. Named after the soil it comes from, which is characterized by large limestone pebbles (‘caillottes’), this wine is all about cool minerality. The usual seafood suspects will of course pair beautifully with this Sancerre, but it is also a delight with Italian Wedding Soup.
While Spain’s Ribera del Duero region has long been known as a source for powerful, high-quality (and often expensive) Tempranillo, it has now become a reliable go-to for value as well. Finca Torremilanos was founded in 1903, and acquired by the current proprietors, the Albéniz family, in the 70s. Now in the hands of the second and third generations, they achieved Demeter Biodynamic certification in 2015 (the first estate in the region to do so). This organic red is made with the estate’s youngest vines, with the blend comprised of 89% Tempranillo, 9% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2% Grenache. Ripe plum and blackberry fruit dominate the palate, with an easygoing but peppery finish. Bring this along to summer cookouts as it’s a natural with grilled meats. 
Aligoté may be having a moment. Despite long playing second-fiddle to Chardonnay in Burgundy (even being banned from being planted in certain areas, with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir given priority), many top producers love the grape and continue to make and bottle it. Domestically, Aligoté has become increasingly sought after in recent years as prices of Chardonnay-based Bourgogne Blanc continue to rise and as influential sommeliers recognize and tout its value and potential. Pernot’s Aligoté is delicious in its own right. The 2020 is densely concentrated with lemon zest and green apple fruit, and carries a thrilling mineral tension through the long finish. Serve with baked haddock and potatoes. 
One terrific bargain this month is this delicious Basque country cider. Iruin Astiazaran is a labor-intensive artisan cider house in Northern Spain. They use six indigenous apple varieties and ferment and age the cider in 12 giant chestnut barrels. The small size of their operation allows them to reintroduce the juice to the pulp during fermentation, adding tannin and complexity. This slightly fizzy, totally dry cider is a treat with seafood and shellfish. Give the bottle a shake to stir up the sediment and pour from on high to get it properly aerated. It’s part of the fun.
It’s no secret that we love a good Dolcetto. This Piedmontese specialty, with its dark berry fruit and supple tannins, is one of the most versatile food pairing reds. The village of Dogliani is such holy ground for Dolcetto that it has its own Denominazione; and for $19.99 you can get a bottle from Einaudi, one of the best producers. The 2020 is a polished, dry red with jammy blackberry fruit and dusty, dry tannins. This drinks like a dream with a mushroom risotto.
A string of warm, dry vintages has propelled the wines of Brunello di Montalcino into the spotlight. These wines usually take years to mature, but producers of Brunello have their ready-to-drink Rossos to offer consumers a generous glimpse into the glories of Brunello. Caparzo’s 2019 Rosso is a silky Sangiovese with plum and cherry fruit and a smooth finish. Try this with a roasted stuffed pork loin. 
2021 Pays d’Oc Viognier/Sauvignon Blanc (Le Petit Balthazar)