Newsletter

September 19, 2023 – October 17, 2023

Tutto Rosso

After last month’s successful group of Italian whites we have a delicious variety of Tuscan, Piedmont, and Sicilian reds to promote. Give these a try with the bounty of beans and squashes of the harvest season.

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Poderi Sanguineto I e II Vino Nobile di MontepulcianoVino Nobile
2019 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (Poderi Sanguineto I e II)
Sale Price $34.99 – $356.90 case of twelve
This deep, dark traditional Vino Nobile is entering its ready to drink phase, and at a fortunate ten dollar reduction in price. The 2019 Sanguineto flagship Vino Nobile is a blend of 80% Sangiovese plus 20% Canaiolo and Mammolo. Aged two years in barrel, this has achieved a smooth, rich flavor that is perfect along with a plate of prosciutto and a steaming hot bowl of borlotto beans drizzled with Tuscan olive oil.

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Caparzo Rosso di MontalcinoRosso di Montalcino
2019 Rosso di Montalcino (Caparzo)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
To be honest, we previously marketed this wine too early. We initially found it concentrated and tannic (maybe too tannic). After a year in our cellar it is a much better wine. The aromatics fully open with cherry and cedar, and while the tannins are still present, they are in balance with the long and dry finish. A delight with skirt-steak tacos and a spicy salsa.

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Roero, The Other Side of the River
2015 Roero ‘Monfriggio’ (Chiesa Carlo)
Sale Price $23.99 – $244.70 case of twelve
Chiesa Carlo Roero MonfriggioThe Tanaro river divides Roero from Barolo, but there is also fine Nebbiolo made in the Roero. Case in point is Chiesa Carlo, who annually makes by hand 375 cases of their Monfriggio. This pure Nebbiolo ages for two years in barrel and the 2015 is now a mature beauty. The gorgeous aromatics include rose petals and plums, with a ripe, dry, tannic finish. Great with braised beef stew and carrots.

Montecucco
Castello ColleMassari Montecucco Rigoleto2020 Montecucco ‘Rigoleto’ (Castello ColleMassari)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Though overshadowed by its more famous neighbor to the northeast, Montalcino, Montecucco has seen increasing interest since receiving DOC status in 1998. This organic blend of 70% Sangiovese, 15% Ciliegiolo, and 15% Montepulciano is a lively and approachable Tuscan red, with flavors of cherry and dried herbs and a spicy finish. The round and supple body is framed by a gentle grip of tannins, making a fantastic partner for a hearty bowl of pasta with a mushroom ragù.

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The Spicy Special
2022 Verduno Pelaverga ‘Speziale’ (Fratelli Alessandria)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
Fratelli Alessandria Verduno Pelaverga SpezialeThe Pelaverga Piccolo grape has achieved cult status in hipster wine circles. This grape, embraced and resurrected by Barolo growers in the village of Verduno, is nothing like the tannic and age-worthy Nebbiolo. Instead it is light and fresh, charming and seductive. With a slight chill it has floral aromas along with spicy raspberry fruit. A fine light red for a seared salmon with spinach and lentils.

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Terre Siciliane
2021 Terre Siciliane ‘Jakì’ (Valdibella)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
Valdibella Terre Siciliane JakìValdibella is a Sicilian cooperative comprised of 6 families. They grow grapes, olives, and almonds. Their Jakì is a hearty blend of organically grown Nero d’Avola and Cabernet Sauvignon. No sulfur is used at any time during the winemaking and bottling. Excellent with pasta and a spicy eggplant sauce.

Listed prices are honored through October 17th, 2023. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 47, No. 10

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Peppery Gamay
2021 Vin de France Gamay ‘La Part du Colibri’ (Domaine Le Fay d’Homme/Vincent Caillé)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Domaine Le Fay d’Homme-Vincent Caillé Vin de France Gamay La Part du ColibriAlthough the region around the city of Nantes is considered Muscadet country, there are still vineyards dedicated to red grapes. Vincent Caillé is a fifth-generation Muscadet producer and champion of natural wine practices who also makes charming red wines. We were lucky to grab the last cases of his Gamay at a closeout price. This biodynamic light red (clocking in at only 12%) has a delightful contrast between its dark aromas of vetiver and black pepper and its bright flavors of cranberry and red plum, followed by a spicy finish. Depending on the weather, either have this with a slight chill or as is with an impromptu meal of salamis and hard cheeses.

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Soalheiro
2022 Vinho Verde Alvarinho (Soalheiro)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Soalheiro Vinho Verde AlvarinhoThe fine wine world is waking up to the quality of Portuguese Alvarinho. The Soalheiro winery was one of the first to bottle Alvarinho as a single varietal. Their vines, located in the sub region of Monção e Melgaço along the Minho river, take advantage of the granitic terroir with warm days and cool nights. The 2022 is fresh and lively with peachy fruit and a long minerally finish. Great for sushi.

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Les Granges
2021 Chinon ‘Les Granges’ (Bernard Baudry)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Bernard Baudry Chinon Les GrangesThe Baudrys make some of the best Chinon, plus they make Les Granges, one of the best values in the appellation. As the vines age it appears that this bottling, as charming as it is, has become better and more refined. The 2021 is ripe and rich in plum and raspberry fruit. A fine match with a pork roast and rosemary potatoes.

Côte de Brouilly
2021 Côte de Brouilly (Nicole et Romain Chanrion)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Nicole et Romain Chanrion Côte de BrouillyMont Brouilly is an extinct volcano in the south of Beaujolais. The base surrounding the mountain is Brouilly, the largest Cru of Beaujolais. On the slopes is the Côte de Brouilly, significantly smaller and one of the best Crus. Our favorite is the Domaine de la Voûte des Crozes, the home of the vigneronne Nicole Chanrion. It is baffling to us that she can support her family by making just 2,500 cases of wine per year, but we are grateful because this is a Beaujolais that we love to drink. The dominating feature in her vineyards is the presence of volcanic blue schist. This contributes to the structure and earthiness of the wine. It also possesses wonderful strawberry fruit with a dusting of herbs and spices. A bottle of this along with a roast chicken is heavenly.

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When Lulu met Lucien
2020 Bandol Rouge (Domaine Tempier)
Sale Price $49.99 – $509.90 case of twelve
Domaine Tempier Bandol RougeWhen Lulu Tempier married Lucien Peyraud in 1936 the Bandol appellation took a leap forward. Her family owned Domaine Tempier, and Lucien began advocating for the traditional Bandol grape, Mourvèdre, to become a majority component of the region’s red wines. Along the way they raised seven children, and this gregarious Provençal clan brought an ex-patriot food writer, an American importer, and a trailblazing west coast chef into their world view. Richard Olney wrote a terrific book about Lulu’s cooking, Kermit Lynch imported the wines, and Alice Waters’ Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California markedly improved the American restaurant industry. Usually, we just get a few cases of the rosé and red per year, but much to our surprise we got some extra 2020 Bandol Rouge at a slightly better price. This is an amazing wine, with ripe dense fruit, peppery spice, and sun-soaked Mediterranean herb and olive flavors. Great for a grilled leg of lamb with garlic and rosemary.

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Paltrinieri Bianco dell’Emilia

Frizzante Secco
Bianco dell’Emilia (Paltrinieri)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.90 case of twelve
Paltrinieri’s Bianco is a light, easy-going, fizzy dry white made from Trebbiano and Lambrusco Sorbara. This is a great aperitif, and a less sweet alternative to the ubiquitous spritz. Cin cin.

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Leipold’s Liter
2021 Franken Silvaner Kabinett Trocken (Leipold)
Sale Price $21.99 per Liter – $224.30 case of twelve
Leipold Franken Silvaner Kabinett TrockenWe love our liter bottles. They promise juicy refreshment as a joyous partner to good food and good times. With this German Silvaner, however, the liter bottle format belies how serious of a wine it is. No surprise, as it’s the entry wine from Peter Leipold, a young winemaker with a growing following, located in Franken, a region where Silvaner attains its highest expression. This dry white has honeysuckle blossom and crunchy orchard fruits hanging on a scaffolding of saline minerality. Upon opening, its subtle spritz makes it even more suitable for all sorts of fried foods, from schnitzel to fries to tempura.

Bongran
2018 Viré-Clessé ‘Cuvée E. J. Thevenet’ (Domaine de la Bongran)
Sale Price $39.99 – $407.90 case of twelve
Domaine de la Bongran Viré-Clessé Cuvée E J ThevenetThe Thevenet family in the Viré-Clessé appellation makes some of the most distinctive Chardonnay in Burgundy. They have long made late harvest whites that combine a mild sweetness with gorgeous minerality. In addition, the wines age magnificently. We have secured the last few cases of their intense 2018 vintage at a (slightly) sweet price. Have this with a roasted sea bass on a bed of sautéed onions.

Specialty Foods

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A Small Good

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Rockport, ME

A small good; Cured Meats with a Sense of Place; Made in Rockport, Maine

This month we are pleased to feature a local charcuterie producer who we have been working with since their inception in 2018. A Small Good was founded by Oliver and Kelly Perkins. Their attention to detail starts on the farm, where they work closely with local producers to ensure that the animals are pasture raised, never mistreated, and never exposed to antibiotics or hormones. ASG’s fine cured meats are brined in hard cider, fermented with wild yeasts and koji (a mold typically used to make soy sauce and sake), and then aged on the Atlantic coast to create a distinct sense of terroir rarely accomplished by American producers. We have a selection of their small format salamis, but the most interesting items are sliced fresh at the deli counter.

Culatello - $32 per half pound
Pork shoulder cured in a natural casing with a bold flavor.

Lonza - $22 per half pound
Pork tenderloin rubbed with fennel and Calabrian chilis.

Coppa - $22 per half pound
Pork shoulder aged with black pepper.

Wagyu Bresaola - $28 per half pound
Beef round with Lambrusco and Appalachian Spicebush, an indigenous aromatic herb.

Hard Cider Salami - $19 per half pound
Pork salami with hard cider from Whaleback Farm.

Finocchiona Salami - $19 per half pound
Pork salami with fennel seed.

Basque-ish Chorizo - $19 per half pound
Pork and beef salami with Spanish peppers.

Spicebush Salami - $19 per half pound
Pork and beef with Appalachian Spicebush.


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Wines of the Month — September 19, 2023 through October 17, 2023

Broadbent Dão Branco

2020 Dão Branco (Broadbent)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
Broadbent wisely plunders Portugal’s Sogrape winery to find its white Dão and red Douro wines. This dry white is full of character with apricot fruit and peppery spice. Great with cod and clams.

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Coutada Velha Vinho Regional Alentejano

2020 Vinho Regional Alentejano (Coutada Velha)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
This bold red blend is a multi-cultural mix of Aragonez, Trincadeira, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Its earthy dryness and spicy tannins will match well with a spicy bean chili.

Domaine de Millet Côtes de Gascogne Blanc

2021 Côtes de Gascogne Blanc (Domaine de Millet)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09
case of twelve
Millet’s blend of Colombard and Ugni Blanc is crisp and lively with citrus fruit. Try this with spicy noodles.

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Tenuta La Pergola Monferrato Rosso

2021 Monferrato Rosso (Tenuta La Pergola)
Sale Price $10.99 – $118.69 case of twelve
If you’re looking for Nebbiolo in this Piedmont red you won’t find it. Instead you get a delicious blend of Barbera, Dolcetto, Freisa, Bonarda, and Croatina. Great for red-sauced pasta dishes.

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