Newsletter
August 15, 2018 – September 14, 2018
Our Favorita Vermentino
2017 Langhe Favorita (Guidobono)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
While Piedmont is celebrated for its bold red wines, the whites of the region are much improved and usually bargain priced. Consider this dry Favorita (aka Vermentino) from the good folks at Guidobono. From its straw-yellow color emerges a full flavored, textured white with peachy fruit and a long, layered finish. Try this wine with grilled swordfish nestled on a bed of pesto-tossed tomatoes.
Cloudy Coolness
2017 Vino Bianco Non Filtrato (Angelo Negro)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
By coincidence we happen to have a second white wine from Piedmont this month. This time the featured grape is Arneis from the Roero, a district across the Tanaro river from Alba. It’s fitting that the wine is from the Angelo Negro estate, as its owner Giovanni Negro produced the first dry Roero Arneis back in 1971. Made from organic grapes, his Vino Bianco is aged for six months on lees, then bottled unfiltered and unclarified, creating its strikingly cloudy lemonade look. Less sulfur than usual is used at bottling to retain freshness. Grapefruit, preserved lemon, and thyme swirl delectably among the suspended lees. Salvage what's left of the summer with a chilled bottle and a salad of late season vegetables.
The Pale Red Lake
2017 Kalterersee (Colterenzio)
Sale Price $12.99 – $132.50 case of twelve case of twelve
The Kalterersee (in German) or Lago di Caldaro (in Italian) is a body of water in the Südtirol-Alto Adige region in the north of Italy. It is also a denominazione for the Schiava grape variety. We have become smitten by this wine’s thoroughly charming contrariness. It is a pale red wine meant to be drunk as soon as yesterday. It has no tannin to shed and little acidity to preserve it, but its red-berried fruit and almond-like bitterness make it perfect for a simple summer meal of poached fish with a tomato and cucumber salad.
Vernaccia Nera
2015 Serrapetrona ‘Pepato’ (Fontezoppa)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Much like Piedmont being renowned for its reds, Marche is usually noted for its white wines made from the Verdicchio grape. But we are fond of its reds as well. A newcomer red for us is Fontezoppa’s Pepato made from Vernaccia Nera (aka Grenache) from Serrapetrona, which is located inland along the base of the Apennine mountains. As its name suggests, this is a peppery light red that doesn’t take itself too seriously. Plum fruit and dried flowers round out the spiciness. This is a casual, friendly wine that begs for an equally casual Cacio e Pepe.
Pignoletto a la Modenese
2017 Pignoletto Frizzante (Fattoria Moretto)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Fattoria Moretto makes seriously fun wines just south of Modena in Emilia-Romagna. Italian wine aficionado Burton Anderson calls this region the “Bubble Belt” because what’s in your glass is likely to be frizzante. We first fell for their Lambrusco, which has more complexity and structure than we had ever experienced in a frothy red wine. We enjoyed it so much that we had to try their fizzy white Pignoletto. This has all the credentials of serious wine. The Altariva family’s half-hectare Pignoletto vineyard is 30 years old and is farmed organically. The grapes are hand-harvested, the fermentation is by natural yeasts. The yearly production averages just 250 cases. And like their Lambrusco, this wine is absolutely delicious. It’s about as fresh tasting as any wine can be. Gorgeous apple fruit with flecks of mint and minerals poke through the delirious frothiness. This is perfect for a simple broiled sole with spinach and new potatoes.
Chiaretto
2017 Bardolino Chiaretto (Gorgo)
Sale Price $9.99 – $101.90 case of twelve
Listed prices are honored through September 14th, 2018. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 42, No. 9
There is hardly better value in Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc than the version from this cooperative winery. Le Grand St. Vincent is a concentrated, crisp, and dry white. The zesty citrus nose leads to a rich, ripe, round, and thoroughly dry finish. This is always lovely with fresh fish and a tomato and goat cheese salad.
One of our most satisfying moments in the wine industry was our visit to the beautiful caves of Lamé Delisle Boucard. They were extremely generous with their impressive library of back vintages. Our personal favorite was the 1964. We still find it difficult to believe that the ‘Prestige,’ their top-end wine, sells for just $12.99 and is capable of aging for 50 years. So here we are again with another great wine from Lamé Deslisle Boucard. The 2014 ‘Prestige’ is solid gold. A veritable gold medal winner from the Concours General Agriculture fair in Paris – a feat they have achieved many times. How do they do it? Family-owned vineyards since the late 1800s. Conscientious work in the vineyards and cellar. Cabernet Franc. Bravo.
Our best value in Pinot Noir once again comes from Frank Heyden. The 2016 is a worthy successor to his exquisite 2015. Ripe fruit, good structure, and a dry, steady finish make this a beauty with grilled salmon or roast chicken.
The top of Domaine Chignard’s 60-year-old Les Moriers vineyard is in Fleurie; when it reaches the bottom it is in Moulin-á-Vent. Hence this wine, as importer Kermit Lynch explains, has ‘the explosive aromas of Fleurie on the chassis of Moulin-á-Vent.’ We wish we could go back and buy more 2014 Beaujolais because of the deep forest loam flavors from this vintage. This wine has it in spades.
Chiroubles is best known for its charming floral aromas and light-bodied wines. Yet in 2015 Damien Coquelet’s old-vine cuvée has a boatload of ripe berry fruit, spicy tannins, and a deep, minerally finish. This is an excellent wine to pair with a good old fashioned grilled porterhouse. 
Rarely do we put a wine on sale when it is more expensive than in the previous vintage, but when the producers themselves state that it is the best vintage they have ever made we take notice. The 2016 Scavino Langhe Nebbiolo is from grapes harvested very late in the season from east-facing vineyards in the Barolo zone. The fermentation and aging is shorter than Barolo, and the wine displays fresh fruit and bright, soft tannins. This ready-to-drink Nebbiolo is a perfect match for ravioli with porcini mushrooms.
We’re taking a deep dive into Greek wine, and these wines from Douloufakis make a great entry point for the wines of Crete. Vidiano is a rare white variety that has been given new plantings by this estate. The 2017 is a full-flavored dry white with lively lime and apricot fruit. Like the Assyrtiko from Santorini, Vidiano retains its freshness amidst admirable concentration. A great white for all kinds of seafood and summer salads. While Vidiano is a rare white variety undergoing revival, the Liatiko is prolific, being the most planted grape on Crete.
There are both sweet and dry Liatiko wines, but rest assured this 2016 is a dry red with spicy, floral aromas. Its light color is deceptive, as it is complex, with good structure and a fine, ripe, tannic finish. Of course it makes us think of grilled lamb, basted with a lemon and thyme broth. In terms of flavor and historical interest these wines are fantastic bargains.
Usually by this time of the summer we are sold out of Muga’s Rosado, but this year we waited to feature it. The 2017 is a beauty. This is spicy and dry, with a rich round finish. A treat with fish tacos and grilled corn. 
Though buffalo milk is most commonly associated with fresh mozzarella di bufala, aged buffalo cheeses are gaining in popularity in the US. Higher in fat and protein than cow’s milk, buffalo milk has a complexity that really shines through aging. With its bright and tangy flavor, Grossetano is an excellent example of what buffalo milk cheese can be. Notably, La Maremmana (which is located in the coastal area of southern Tuscany called Maremma) is committed to running the farm using only renewable energy— they even built a biogas plant on-site to help achieve this commendable goal.
Though Arethusa Farm in Litchfield, CT has operated as a dairy since 2001 (raising numerous award-winning show cows), they didn’t start making cheese until 2011. In the past few years, they have refined their cheesemaking to produce a diverse array of consistently delicious products. With a delicate, snowy-white rind and a sweetness underlying rich buttery notes, this camembert will do well in a picnic basket and paired with fresh fruit.
After a visit to Cricket Creek Farm in Williamstown, MA, it is clear that they are committed to their mission to “produce nourishing food that honors our animals, respects the land, and feeds our community.” They also make really delicious cheese – and their best is Maggie’s Reserve, a raw cow’s milk cheese aged for 12-18 months. The dense and fudgy paste is studded with tyrosine crystals, and the flavor and texture simultaneously evoke caramel and the prickling acidity of pineapple.
2016 Cino Rosso (Cascina Ballarin) 
2017 Chenin Blanc ‘Petit’ (Ken Forrester)