Newsletter
January 15, 2020 – February 14, 2020
Viré-Clessé
2018 Viré-Clessé ‘Les Pierres Blanches’ (André Bonhomme)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
We recently read that the US purchases 60% of the production of Pouilly-Fuissé. This surprised us because we have shifted our purchases to the relatively new super-Macon appellation of Viré-Clessé. The ‘Les Pierres Blanches’ from Bonhomme comes from a stony, high-elevation vineyard and gives the expected earthy, dry, minerally flavors of un-oaked Chardonnay. A light touch of apricot and peach fruit leads into the crisp, dry finish.
Santenay
2016 Santenay ‘Vieilles Vignes’ (Domaine Jouard)
Sale Price $23.99 – $244.70 case of twelve
Santenay has a reputation of being ‘sauvage’ or a bit wild, and this 2016 from Jouard lives up to it. This old-vine bottling is packed with spicy plum fruit and a bloody, gamy flavor. This is a throwback Burgundy that is perfect with a winter-strength Boeuf Bourgignon packed with lardons and mushrooms.
Chinon
2018 Chinon ‘Les Granges’ (Bernard Baudry)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Now retired, Bernard Baudry will always be the face of this Domaine, but with the deeper and more intense 2018 ‘Les Granges’ we get the impression that his son Mathieu has made his mark. This is as drinkable as past cuvées, but has a spicy, brambly fruit and an earthy flavor that is more terroir driven than previous versions. Drink this lively Cabernet Franc with a roasted salmon with mustard and leeks.
La Garrigue
2017 Côtes du Rhône ‘Cuvée Romaine’ (Domaine La Garrigue)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Those seeking Rhône values have long gravitated to this label. The La Garrigue is a stuffed and loaded blend of de-classified Vacqueyras that always belies its price. The 2017 is juicy and delicious and requires serving with bold foods. A North African curry with lamb sausages or a hearty Indian eggplant dish would match well.
Reuilly
2018 Reuilly (Dyckerhoff)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
This wine kept on disappearing from our shelves, so we put on our veteran retailer tin hat and asked the wholesaler how many cases they had left. Luckily they had just the right amount (or so we think) for a winter newsletter. With its fresh citrus and pear fruit and lingering, dry finish, this 2018 Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc is a delight. Grab some sushi and go.
Pouilly-Fumé
2017 Pouilly-Fumé ‘Vieilles Vignes’ (Régis Minet)
Sale Price $23.99 – $244.70 case of twelve
Just across the Loire River from Sancerre is the village of Pouilly-sur-Loire, home to a much smaller appellation that also makes a flinty, crisp Sauvignon Blanc. If anyone claims that they can tell the difference between Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé they are probably a producer who makes both. To our tastes an excellent Pouilly-Fumé carries a bit more body than a Sancerre and has very flinty mineral flavors that last long into the finish. Enter Régis Minet’s 2017, a polished, ripe and round, old-vine Sauvignon with a lean, long streak of delicious minerality. A fantastic wine for broiled haddock, new potatoes, and spinach.
Listed prices are honored through February 14th, 2020. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 44, No. 2
Our first offering of the Agnanum Falanghina was such a success that we went ahead and bought another dozen cases. The winery and vineyard are located to the west of Naples in the Campi Flegrei, an active volcanic zone. The vines range from 60 to 200 years in age, no chemicals are used in the vineyard, a minimum of sulfur is used at fermentation, and none at bottling. The result is a deliciously fresh white with gorgeous floral aromas and a salty tang to the finish. This is a wonderful wine for seafood and pasta. We also have a few cases of their red wine made from the Piedirosso grape. Great for pizza, it smells like basil and tomato grown in a volcanic crater.
The wines of Vietti are some of Piedmont’s finest across their entire range. Their Perbacco Nebbiolo comes from grapes grown only in the Barolo zone villages of Castiglione Falletto and Novello. The wine is aged for two years in barrel and another year in bottle before release. This 2016 drinks well now and will hold for another decade, developing nuance and length. A great red for a long-braised brisket.
Sicilian wines have improved immensely over the last twenty years. Now they are regarded as some of the best wines of Italy. We have been repeatedly charmed by Pietradolce’s Nerello Mascalese grown at altitude on the northern slopes of Mount Etna. The 2018 is etched with an earthy volcanic aroma, tactile tannins, and light but lingering red berry fruit. This is a graceful red wine that can be served with seared tuna in a spicy tomato sauce.
The Nahe is an underrated source for good German Riesling. The firm of Kruger-Rumpf excels with dry Riesling in a simple, refreshing style. This 2017 is snappy and fresh with crunchy orchard fruit and a fine dry finish. 
Acute observers have noticed that there is usually a Scavino Barolo on our shelves at any given moment. While tasting through their various 2016 Barolos, we came across this 2018 white blend that charmed us, especially given its sale price. Normally $17.99, this blend of Chardonnay (40%), Sauvignon Blanc (40%), and Viognier is a steal at $14.99. The Chardonnay gives the Sorriso its smooth texture, the Sauvignon Blanc its freshness, and the Viognier lends it lovely aromas of white flowers and apricots. No oak touches this white, yet the Sorriso has enough weight to make it a perfect winter white to have with a pork loin. It’s also versatile enough to have with a spicy ceviche at the start of a meal.
The estate of Pico Maccario is home to the largest single vineyard in Piedmont. Within its 70 hectares, 58 are planted to Barbera and each row is marked with a red rose bush, some 4,500 in all. This is truly the Villa della Rosa. Their wines are among the best values of the Asti zone. 2016 was an excellent year for Barbera and the quality of this bottling far exceeds its price. The charming raspberry fruit and peppery finish is perfect for easygoing everyday fare like meatloaf or a stew of lentils.
2018 Dolcetto d’Alba (Cantina del Pino) 
European rosé was once said to “not travel well,” which is a polite way to say that it tastes better there than here. Agreed. Today rosé comes from many different regions in many different hues and most drink very well even in winter in Somerville.
Muga’s Rosado is made much like their other wines, with some barrel age and deep structure. We leapt at a much better price when it was recently offered. Its persimmon color leads to a zesty wine with a dry, peppery finish. Great with a baked artichoke and red pepper rice. Same goes for the pleasantly crimson Passe-Rose from Mas Sainte Berthe. This is completely dry, with firm tannins and subtle fruit, making it a great wine to have with food. Try it with a fish stew.
2016 Côtes du Rhône (Mas Arnaud)