Newsletter
January 15, 2014 – February 14, 2014
Monferrato Rosso
2012 Monferrato Rosso (Tenuta La Pergola)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
Superb importer Kermit Lynch has bravely crossed the border from Provence into Piedmont to mine some fine Italian wines. This 2012 Monferrato Rosso may be his best value red. We certainly appreciated its wonderful freshness and lovely aromatic spice. According to Lynch’s own newsletter the blend is a mix of Barbera from Monferrato and Barbera from Asti along with some Freisa and Bonarda. These contribute energy, deep fruit, perfume, and tannin.
Langhe Rosso
2011 Langhe Rosso (Vajra)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
Beautiful Barbaresco
2009 Barbaresco ‘Vicenziana’ (Silvio Giamello)
Sale Price $39.99 – $407.90 case of twelve
This is another Kermit Lynch selection and it is a beauty. The entire annual production of the Giamello family amounts to 850 cases. Fortunately most of it is from 40- to 50-year-old Nebbiolo vines in Barbaresco. Their farming practices are purely traditional, natural, and chemical-free. After a temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel, the wine is transferred into large old Slovenian oak botti for two to three years. The aromas are a lesson in Nebbiolo from Barbaresco – red fruits, dried rose petals, and a subtle earthiness. The palate is a graceful combination of gentle fruits and ripe tannins. The finish, long and pure, generously returns the aromatics.
In the Shadow of Monte Bianco
2009 Carema ‘Etichetta Blanca’ (Ferrando)
Sale Price $54.99 – $560.90 case of twelve
While the Carema zone is located in Piedmont its climate more closely resembles that of the Val d’Aosta. In a south-facing amphitheater in the shadow of Monte Bianco the Ferrando family trains their Nebbiolo on granite pillars to maximize sun in the high altitude. The soils are dominated by slate and this gives a deep minerality to the wine. To the eye this wine looks light, but there is a tensile strength of tannin and acidity that gives it decades of life. For those who adore Barolo and Barbaresco this provides another gorgeous facet to the jewel that is Nebbiolo.
The Sunny Side of the Alps
2012 Alto Adige Pinot Nero ‘Meczan’ (J. Hofstätter)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Bordering Austria, Alto Adige is Italy’s northernmost growing area and it is certainly better known for Pinot Grigio than it is for Pinot Nero. Hofstätter’s Pinot Noir will silence any critic who does not believe that world class Pinot Noir can be made in Italy. The 2012 has wonderful wild berry fruit aroma, graceful tannins, and an elegant, pure Pinot Noir finish.
Lagrein
2012 Alto Adige Lagrein (Colterenzio)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Another great red surprise from Alto Adige is the mysteriously well-connected Lagrein. Recent DNA parentage analysis reveals that Lagrein is a natural cross involving Teroldego, a sibling of Marzemino, a nephew/niece of the parent of Syrah, a grandchild of Pinot, and a cousin of Syrah. And you thought that your family reunions were complicated. All that aside, the 2012 Lagrein is a spicy, fruity alpine red with good, gripping flavor.
Listed prices are honored through February 14th, 2014. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 38, No. 2
California Cabernet Sauvignon is reliably good and often great. Finding delightful Cabernet that is neither simply good nor ridiculously priced can be a difficult proposal. This month the amiably named Picket Fence made the job easy. Sourced from the Alexander Valley, this is a well-balanced, deeply fruited Cabernet with judicious oak and fine-grained tannins.
When we last traveled to Cahors the producer we visited was genuinely pleased by the success of Argentine Malbec, hoping it would shine a light back on the original home of the grape. Now some Cahors producers put Malbec on the label, but the dark, brooding intensity of these wines gives them a truly Gallic charm. Domaine la Bérangeraie’s Cuvée Maurin is a roaring fire of a wine, full in body, rich in weight, and warm in finish. This is a clear suggestion to serve with rich dark stews or a seared duck breast.
GREK
It takes a lot of effort to challenge Guigal for supremacy in the Rhone Valley, but Saint Cosme has become comparably adept with both Northern and Southern Rhone wines. Being based in Gigondas they have an abiding love for Grenache, so it is curious that they produce a pure Syrah Côtes du Rhône. The 2012 is packed with bright raspberry fruit accented by Syrah’s fabulous smoky and meaty flavor. Try this beauty with lamb chops.
Château Pesquié has risen above its station and into the upper echelon of Southern Rhone producers. Their wines from the southern slope of Mont Ventoux are distinctly Provençal,with generous plum fruit, herbal bouquets, and scents of olives and warm stones. The 2012 will match well with a rich cassoulet.
Since 1380 there have been Boulays making wine in and around Sancerre. We wonder what those first couple of vintages tasted like and which importer brought them in? All kidding aside, this is one of the great historic producers in Chavignol. If they like basketball as much as the Cotats we can only imagine the skirmishes in the paint between Gérard Boulay and Francois Cotat in the local league. This 2012 is still on the young side but with time it will blossom into a honey and beeswax beauty with minerals spread throughout. Have this with spicy crab cakes and a garlic and lemon aioli.
2011 Salento Primitivo (Terremare)
Even though it’s been many years since the Le Capitaine brothers took over production of ‘Les Aumones,’ we will always fondly remember their predecessors, Madame and Monsieur Villain, for their graceful hospitality and the pleasure of tasting older bottles of their Demi-Sec Vouvray. Fortunately the new producers have continued with the house style and the reasonable prices. The 2012 is a faultless, slightly sweet Chenin Blanc with Vouvray’s distinctive chalky flavor. This is a classic with fish chowder.
2012 Rosso Piceno (Saladini Pilastri) 
2012 Vin de Pays d’Orange (Secret de Campane)
2012 Côtes de Gascogne ‘Cuvée Marine’ (Haut Marin)
2012 Alentejano (Montaria)