Newsletter
June 20, 2021 – July 18, 2021
European Summer Rosé Vacation
While Provence does make many outstanding rosés, it does not have a monopoly. Several Loire Valley producers make lovely rosés from Cabernet Franc. We’re big fans of Muga’s Rioja rosado. And Sicily’s Feudo Montoni has made our favorite new rosé from Nerello Mascalese.
Tavel-Land
2020 Tavel (Château de Trinquevedel)
Sale Price $21.99 – $224.30 case of twelve
Tavel is a village in the south of France, devoted to producing only rosé. This places the stony vineyards of Tavel in Grand Cru
territory. Like many southern French rosés the recipe at Trinquevedel starts with a healthy portion of Grenache (60%), then adds measured doses of Clairette, Syrah, and Cinsault along with a splash of Bourboulenc. The 2020 is an absolutely gorgeous rosé that drinks like a spicy light red. Perfect for spicy stuffed squid.
Muga
2020 Rioja (Muga)
Sale Price $15.99 – $163.10 case of twelve
The Muga rosado always pleases, but the 2020 might be the best vintage yet. This Garnacha/Viura blend is lively with plummy fruit and a riveting, minerally finish. Great with a seafood paella.
L-D-B
2020 Bourgueil (Lamé Delisle Boucard)
Sale Price $12.99 – $132.50 case of twelve
Lamé Delisle Boucard’s wines are fantastic bargains. Their 2020 rosé is a pale-colored, gently-pressed, bone-dry Cabernet Franc. This is a wine made for summer seafood eaten à l’extérieur.
Mourgues du Grès
2020 Costières de Nîmes (Château Mourgues du Grès)
Sale Price $12.99 – $132.50 case of twelve
To the west of Tavel lie the vineyards of Costières de Nîmes. The vineyards at Mourgues du Grès also have the large, heat-retaining galets roulés found in Tavel and Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The blend of Grenache (50%),
Syrah (40%), and Mourvèdre creates a full-bodied style of rosé with a dry, peppery finish. Have this with pulled pork.
Olivettes
2020 Pays d’Oc (Terre des Olivettes)
Sale Price $8.99 – $91.70 case of twelve
Terre des Olivettes is a delightful and affordable rosé made from Cinsault, Grenache, Syrah, and Carignan. Sourced from the Languedoc, it is easily one of our best values in Southern French rosé. This easygoing, dry wine is crisp and peppery, and would be perfect for a picnic lunch of grilled chicken and potato salad.
Feudo Montoni
2020 Rose di Adele (Feudo Montoni)
Sale Price $21.99 – $224.30 case of twelve
Feudo Montoni has become one of our favorite Italian wineries. We have awarded them the Wine Cask Triple Crown, now that we have featured their red Nero d’Avola, their white Grillo, and their Rose di Adele. This deep, dry Nerello Mascalese is packed with all kinds of herbal and floral Mediterranean flavors. Have this with a seafood stew and stuffed zucchini flowers.
Listed prices are honored through July 18th, 2021. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 45, No. 7
Blanc Savoie
2020 Vin de Savoie ‘Jongieux’ (Eugène Carrel et Fils)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
We’ve been fans of Eugène Carrel’s wines for some time, but only recently rediscovered the immense value to be found in their Jongieux Blanc. The appellation of Jongieux is named for a village in France’s mountainous Savoie region, but the vineyards cover enough area to make it the region’s largest Cru. Though they can produce red and rosé from a few different varieties, Jongieux Blanc is made exclusively from the native grape Jacquère. These wines are reliably as brisk as an alpine stream (the great Hugh Johnson describes them like “drinking bottled mountain air”). The nose and palate are bursting with ripe orchard fruit but the finish is stony, cool, and crisp. At 11.5%, this is the ideal wine for a lunchtime picnic of salads and cheeses.
Nebbiolo From a Hill of Sand and Fossils
2019 Nebbiolo d’Alba ‘Vigna Valmaggiore’ (Marengo)
Sale Price $27.99 – $285.50 case of twelve
The Valmaggiore vineyard in Piedmont’s Roero district has attracted the attention of several of the best Barolo producers. Giacosa, Sandrone, and Marengo all own some vines in Valmaggiore. This vineyard is an extremely steep hill of sand and marine fossils. The sandy soils lead to a precocious style of Nebbiolo with gorgeous aromatics, lots of purple fruit, and ripe, round tannins. This is a Nebbiolo that drinks well young and goes well with delicate pasta dishes and ripe, runny cheeses.
Lagrein
2019 Lagrein (St. Michael-Eppan)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
The Alto Adige specialty grape Lagrein has the advantage of having lots of color and very little tannin, which harmonizes into a gamey, fruity red that is wonderful with a lot of different foods. The 2019 from St. Michael-Eppan is a dark mountain red with cherry fruit and a pleasing rusticity. Give this a slight chill and serve it with grilled salmon and a mountain of greens, or a picnic of cheese and charcuterie.
Eternal Time in Provence
2018 Côtes du Rhône ‘Réserve’ (Mont-Redon)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
“Every year since I first saw Les Grandes Garrigues, I have been back to admire it, enjoy its smell again and listen.” So begins Madeleine Kamman’s chapter on Provence in When French Women Cook. Her visits with Magaly at Mont-Redon vividly describe the life and cooking at a Southern Rhône winery. Luckily, Mont-Redon is still going strong and makes this deliciously affordable Côtes du Rhône. The 2018 is a classic blend of Grenache and Syrah. It has the heady scent of garrigue along with flavors of ripe berries and olives. A great red for stuffed tomatoes Provençal and pistou.
An un-Sur Lie Muscadet
2019 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine ‘Amphibolite’ (Jo Landron)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Jo Landron conceived of Amphibolite as a light and lively Muscadet, but the longer he makes it the more serious it becomes. Even though he bottled it early after it barely qualified as sur lie, the 2019 vintage has depth and length galore. It packs an orchard's worth of fruit along with striking dryness and gripping minerality. A great white for every component of a clam bake.
Brocard with a Vengeance
2019 Chablis ‘Sainte Claire’ (Jean-Marc Brocard)
Sale Price $21.99 – $224.30 case of twelve
The Brocard family has been a consistent producer of quality Chablis of all levels for decades, and was one of the first in the region to pursue organic viticulture. The south-facing vineyard of Sainte Claire offers a great example of unoaked Chardonnay grown on Chablis’ famous Kimmeridgian limestone soil, and at a fair price. The 2019’s gently aromatic nose offers hints of lemon and ripe orchard fruits. On the palate, the flavors glide with precision towards the succulent, stony, mineral-laden finish. Meant for simply prepared fish or shellfish.
Super-Natural Valpolicella
2017 Valpolicella Superiore ‘Camporenzo’ (Monte Dall’Ora)
Sale Price $29.99 – $305.90 case of twelve
We’re big fans of Valpolicella and have been trying to purchase the Monte Dall’Ora wines for a couple of years. Finally, we have a few cases of their single vineyard Camporenzo. This small family winery grows all their grapes biodynamically, harvests by hand, and treads this wine by foot once a day until the fermentation begins. The 2017 has wonderful aromas of flowers and fruits, with gentle tannins and an earthy finish. Try this with an artichoke lasagna.
Premier Cru Pinot Noir
2019 Givry Ier Cru ‘Champ Nalot’ (Parize)
Sale Price $29.99 – $305.90 case of twelve
While much has been written about Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, comparatively little has been about the Côte Chalonnaise. The little-known villages of Montagny, Mercurey, Rully, and Givry are sources of lovely Pinot Noir. The wines from Parize are not trophy wines, but the best wine in their cellar is the Premier Cru Champ Nalot. The 2019 has an exquisite balance of juicy ripe fruit, mellow tannins, and a light touch of oak. A lovely red for a simple roast chicken on a bed of watercress.
Jazzy Jasnières
2015 Jasnières ‘L’Eclos’ (Les Maisons Rouges)
Sale Price $21.99 – $224.30 case of twelve
Like Vouvray, its famous neighbor to the south, the Loire Valley appellation of Jasnières also specializes in wines made from the Chenin Blanc grape. In contrast, however, to the larger and more prolific Vouvray region, a bare trickle of Jasnières makes it across the Atlantic. Les Maisons Rouges is one of only four producers currently available in our market, and their biodynamic L’Eclos from the acclaimed 2015 vintage is a fantastic value. The wine carries aromas of early summer flowers that are most fragrant at night, along with delicate white peach and gingery spice. Jasnières’ characteristic brisk acidity ensures its ageablity; despite being six years old, this dry white wine still has many more years of development ahead. For now, take advantage of its exquisite precision by pairing it with a broiled trout in cream sauce with snap peas.
Specialty Foods
Pleasant Ridge Reserve $29.99 per lb
(Reg. Price $30.99)
The flagship cheese from Uplands Cheese Company in Wisconsin, Pleasant Ridge Reserve holds the distinction of being the most-awarded cheese in American history. This alpine-style cheese has won the American Cheese Society’s Best of Show three times, the only cheese with that honor. In keeping with the tradition of the alpine cheeses after which it’s modeled, it is only made in the summer months while the herd is grazing on pastures. The flavor is incredibly balanced—fruity, nutty, and grassy nuances are all tied together by umami richness—and it carries a long, lingering finish.
Almnäs Tegel $34.99 per lb
(Reg. Price $36.99)
We recently featured the Swedish cheese Wrångebäck, which we’ve known and loved for a few years now. Brand new to us is its sibling Tegel, another aged cow’s milk cheese from the producer Almnäs Bruk. Both the name (Tegel, meaning ‘tile’ or ‘brick’) and the square shape are references to the brick factory that used to exist on the property. Production of Tegel is similar to Gruyère, in that the curds are scalded (heated at high temperatures) during production. This unique step contributes rich, caramelized flavors. The paste is dense and fudgy, and the flavor has a bright fruitiness to complement the butterscotch notes.
Prospect Mountain $12.99 per piece
(Reg. Price $14.99)
Nettle Meadow Farm must be one of the most prolific American cheesemakers. The Warrensburg, NY dairy is continuously creating new styles and flavors of their award-winning cheeses, and the small-format Prospect Mountain is one of the newest. Like many of their offerings, it’s a soft cow’s milk cheese with a bloomy rind. The notable feature on each 7 ounce piece is the coating of herbs and flowers native to the Adirondacks, including blackberry leaf, dandelion leaf, heather, rose petals, red clover, sumac, and sarsaparilla root. This is a striking cheese with a definite sense of place.
Salva Cremasco $17.99 per lb
(Reg. Price $19.99)
Salva Cremasco is a raw cow’s milk cheese, originally developed in Lombardy over 150 years ago. The name comes from the phrase ‘salvare il latte’ as making cheese was a way for herdsman to save excess milk from the plentiful spring supply. The cheese is molded in a unique cube shape and aged for over 75 days, after which the wrinkled rind becomes beautifully mottled with white and yellow mold spores. The smooth ivory paste develops a dense and crumbly texture with age. Though it typically has a very mild and lactic flavor when young, this current batch is showing a little more maturity with its intensity and earthiness.
Wines of the Month — June 20, 2021 through July 18, 2021
2020 Pinot Grigio delle Venezie (Gorgo)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
The organic wines from Gorgo are absolutely delicious and great values. Their Pinot Grigio is packed with gentle fruit, good body, and a cool, dry finish. Great for summer salads.
2020 Bardolino Chiaretto (Gorgo)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
This is our most popular Italian rosé. Bardolino Chiaretto is as cool as the alpine water in Lake Garda. Its light strawberry fruit and peppery dryness are perfect for fish tacos.
2020 Vinho Verde (Muralhas de Monção)
Sale Price $7.99 – $86.29 case of twelve
Portuguese wines continue to be value leaders. The 2020 Muralhas has a light spritz, but behind it is a seriously flavorful and flinty dry white. Lovely with clams.
2018 Monica di Sardegna (Cantina Santa Maria la Palma)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
Santa Maria la Palma continues to produce flavorful, affordable wines. This month we have their Monica, a fruity, earthy red with soft tannic structure. Great with Middle Eastern foods.