Newsletter
September 15, 2017 – October 14, 2017
Collaborative Côtes du Rhône
2015 Côtes du Rhône ‘Les Cranilles’ (Les Vins de Vienne)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Les Vins de Vienne is a collaboration between the three Northern Rhone producers Cuilleron, Villard, and Gaillard. Their efforts yield wines that are much lower priced than their own vineyard offerings yet have a richness and finesse. The 2015 Les Cranilles is a spicy, dense Côtes du Rhône with ripe, plummy fruit and peppery tannins. This is mostly Grenache, but the Syrah makes its presence known.
Cru Régnié
2016 Régnié ‘Les Vallières’ (Jean-Marc Burgaud)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
When Régnié attained Cru status some wondered whether a new Cru was needed. Twenty years on the answer is yes, to judge by this wine from Jean-Marc Burgaud. His Les Vallières is Gamay with real weight and ripe, spicy tannins. It has a minty aroma and decidedly raspberry fruit. While not as structured as his Morgon, in 2016 it has more gravitas than his Beaujolais Villages. Have this with a spicy chicken curry.
Sanguineto is Back
2015 Rosso di Montepulciano (Podere Sanguineto)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Valpolicella by the Lake
2016 Valpolicella Classico (Ca’ La Bionda)
Sale Price $12.99 – $132.50 case of twelve
We love the freshness of good young Valpolicella. One can compare it to Beaujolais, but there is an airy lightness to the wines that radiates charm while not lacking in flavor,. The 2016 Classico from Ca’ la Bionda shimmers with gorgeous red fruits and follows up with a crisp and lively finish. Try this with a broiled salmon.
Classed Growth Bordeaux
2012 Haut-Médoc, 5ème Cru Classé (Château Cantemerle)
Sale Price $41.99 - $428.30 case of twelve
When we offered this fifth-growth Bordeaux almost two years ago, the reception was better than expected. Yet it wasn’t too much of a surprise, as Château Cantemerle has always delivered early-drinking pleasure at one of the best prices for a classed growth. So when we learned that the supply of the 2012 vintage was running out, we had to snatch up the last of it. We revisited it to see how it was drinking and found the wine had attained even more depth. The tannins are smoother than ever and meld seamlessly into this Cabernet-dominated blend. Raspberry and black cherry are still present along with graphite and thyme. But a slight smokiness is now emerging from the background, adding to the intrigue of how this Bordeaux will continue to develop in the next couple of years. It’s a wine that will transition gracefully from a main course of a roast to an after-dinner Stilton.
Organic Abruzzese
2015 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (Valle Reale)
Sale Price $12.99 – $132.50 case of twelve
Listed prices are honored through October 14th, 2017. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 41, No. 10
We almost hesitate to advertise the wines of R. Lopez de Heredia because they are becoming scarce and expensive due to increased demand. But when offered a small allotment of their most ‘commercial’ red, the Viña Tondonia Reserva, we obligingly pass it along. Tondonia ferments in the winery’s original oak vats, which are now about 140 years old. It then is transferred to smaller oak barrels for at least six years. After a few more years resting in bottle at the winery the 2005 is mature and ready to drink. It’s a classic Rioja blend of Tempranillo (75%), Garnacho – the ‘o’ is not a typo – (15%), and some Graciano and Mazuelo. This is earthy and old-fashioned, with aromas of smoke and beef. Upon first opening, it’s rough and tannic, but in an hour or two it becomes smooth as some ripe red fruit emerges. Have this with roast lamb.
So this spicy, lightly tannic blend of Garnatxa, Syrah, and Cabernet has the strength to match up with strong grilled foods. Try it out with a lamb burger and feta cheese. The Viña Real Rosado is a very pale wine. We call it a reverse Rosado because it is made with 15% red Tempranillo and 85% white Viura. This has a crisp, fresh, peachy nose and a long, lean, completely dry finish. Have this with shellfish.
Thankfully the Schneider family in the Rheinhessen continue their Riesling bottlings from two different soil types. To us this is a compelling argument for the concept of terroir – as exemplified by the Riesling grape variety. The ‘Kalk’ is limestone and was harvested at Kabinett-level ripeness and fermented dry or trocken. This is not a light, fruity Riesling. It does start out lean and angular, but with good weight on the palate and a crisp, elegant, minerally finish. 
We think this will match well with a simple sautéed sole or crab cakes. The Rotliegenden is a red soil which absorbs more heat, and this wine was harvested at Spätlese-level ripeness and also fermented dry. Here, we have a riper, rounder, more tropically fruity Riesling, with a subtle, earthy finish. We suggest trying this with spicier foods. All in all, two terrific value, dry Rieslings from a great vintage
It’s not often we come across a California Chardonnay in this price bracket that impresses us. The 2016 Stillman Street, primarily from a vineyard in the Alexander Valley, managed to do just that. A biscuit- and brioche-laced nose derives from the wild yeast fermentation. The rainy winter in 2016 was a welcome relief in northern California after several drought-ridden years, and that’s reflected in a lovely freshness combined with apricot, pear, and citric waves, and a mildly spicy finish. This is an easygoing end of summer white that will pair beautifully with a simple Caesar salad.
Chällerhocker—which translates to “sitting in the cellar”— is a raw cow’s milk cheese made by the famed Swiss Appenzeller producer Walter Rass. It is washed in brine before being aged for at least 12 months. The deep flavor of this smooth and dense alpine cheese evokes roasted nuts and caramel, with a salty and creamy finish. Recommended pairing: Founders Porter, $10.69+deposit (6 pack, 12 oz bottles). 
This spectacular American cheddar is actually a collaboration: it is made by the Flory family in Missouri and aged at Milton Creamery in Iowa. “Truckle” refers to the large cylindrical drum shape, a common format for English cheddars. The raw-milk cheese is wrapped in cloth and allowed to dry out for 10 days before being coated in lard and aged for 12 months. Dry and crumbly, with a rich and grassy flavor. Recommended pairing: Smuttynose Old Brown Dog Brown Ale, $10.69+deposit (6 pack, 12 oz bottles). 
2016 Pinot Noir ‘Bicicleta’ (Cono Sur)
This Burgundian classic returns to form in 2015 with broad, rich and dry Chardonnay flavor. A fine white for cod and haddock, potatoes and parsley.
2016 Orvieto Classico ‘Vignarco’ (Palazzone)