Newsletter

July 15, 2019 – August 14, 2019

Fish Whites and BBQ Reds

Summers around here abound with great seafood. Pristine, flavorful striped bass and bluefish are fantastic grilled or broiled with all kinds of wine. Those who are exclusively into red wine can light the grill and enjoy ribs and chops all summer long. These six bargains are great choices to take with you to the sea shore, the mountains, or your neighbor’s back porch.

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Falanghina
2018 Irpinia Falanghina (Terredora di Paolo)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Paul Cherrier SancerreIn Campania, the Italian province that encompasses Naples, they value the freshest of ingredients, perhaps even more so than the rest of Italy. Be it fish, mozzarella, tomatoes, or basil, the materia prima is all important. This is how we feel about Falanghina. The 2018 Terradora di Paolo is a fresh, direct, and exciting Falanghina that is perfect for a simple fish dish and a fava bean salad.

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Alte Reben Silvaner
Patrice Colin Coteaux du Vendômois Vieilles Vignes 2017 Silvaner (Dr. Heyden)
Sale Price $9.99 – $101.90 case of twelve
Frank Heyden’s old Silvaner vines always deliver a great value dry white. The combined aromas of apples and minerals are enticing enough, but the crisp bracing dryness in the finish make this a complete and lovely white. Great with a steaming pot of fresh mussels and a side of green beans.

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Classic Gascogne
Domaine Douloufakis Dafnios Vidiano2018 Côtes de Gascogne ‘Classic’ (Domaine Tariquet)
Sale Price $9.99 – $101.90 case of twelve
The Grassa family was one of the first to recognize the potential of making dry white wines in the Armagnac country of Gascony. The 2018 ‘Classic’ is as lively as a snap pea and as flavorful as a meadow full of herbs and flowers. Have this refreshing, low ABV white (10.5%) with steamed clams, crab cakes, and fresh corn for maximum enjoyment.

Rosso Misto
Château Ducasse Bordeaux Blanc 2016 Vino Rosso (Paolo Scavino)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
It completely impresses us that the Scavinos are at the top of the Barolo world yet they make such a delicious entry-level red blend of Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, and Barbera. The 2016 is a fresh, berry-scented red with a cool herbal finish. This will match well with fish or chicken off the grill.

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Tempranillo
2016 Ribera del Duero ‘Roble’ (Creta)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
Rioja Blanco Monopole Clasico CVNE Prices for Ribera del Duero have gone through the roof, but with Creta there is still a source for hearty Tempranillo at a good price. The 2016 is culled from very old vines and yields a dense, full-flavored red that is perfect for smoky ribs and thick steaks off the grill.

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Corbières
Clemens Busch Mosel Riesling trocken2017 Corbières ‘Valensol’ (Domaine La Bouysse)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Domaine La Bouysse takes its name from the mountain that forms the backdrop to the vineyard and winery, which itself corresponds to the Occitan word for ‘rough scrub.’ The dry and scrubby terrain of Corbières aptly produces rustic and hearty Mediterranean reds. Equal parts Carignan and Mourvèdre give this richly fruited and herbal scented wine plenty of spice and just a little tannic grip, making it a good choice for the barbecue.

 

Listed prices are honored through August 14th, 2019. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 43, No. 8

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The Four Rosés of Summer

Terre des Olivettes
Michel Troisgros and Stéphane Sérol Côte Roannaise Les Blondins2018 Pays d’Oc Rosé (Terre des Olivettes)
Sale Price $7.99 – $81.50 case of twelve
Statistics now show that more rosé is consumed in France than white wine. Our guess is that foreign tourists and French vacationers in Provence and Languedoc account for most of this. And we suspect that a lot of the rosé in question is like this cheap and charming, dry Terre des Olivettes, which conjures up a long lunch at a picnic table in an olive grove. With just a touch of apricot fruit and a crisp, dry finish, it’s a pleasant match with some charcuterie, cheese, and fruit.

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Nuns and Pebbles
2018 Costières de Nîmes ‘Galets Rosés’ (Château Mourgues du Grès)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Justin Girardin Bourgogne RougeThe Château Mourgues du Grès is a former Ursuline convent where the Mourgues (nuns) toiled amongst the Grès (pebbles) in the rocky vineyard. This area outside Nimes is one of the sunniest places in France, and the Galets Rosés is a thoroughly dependable, darker than average rosé. This cuvée relies more on the Syrah grape, and so it yields a peppery wine more akin to a light red. Terrific with grilled lamb skewers.

Loire
2018 Val de Loire Rosé (J. Mourat)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Domaine Saladin Côtes du Rhône PaulAt the southwestern edge of the Loire Valley J. Mourat makes a variety of wines in the little-seen Fiefs Vendéens appellation. Their entry level Collection series offers this deep, full-flavored, dry rosé made from Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Negrette, and Gamay. Have this lovely summer refresher with a teriyaki salmon and some braised cabbage.

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The Battle of the Bandols
2018 Bandol Rosé (Domaine Dupuy de Lôme)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
El Porvenir de Cafayate Tannat AmautaDupuy de Lôme may sound like a geological feature, but the Domaine is named after Stanislas Charles Henry Dupuy de Lôme, a maritime engineer who designed and built steel clad cruisers and the first operational submarine, which went on to become the inspiration for Jules Verne’s Nautilus in Twenty Thousand Leagues under the Sea. His daughter first bought the Bandol property, and today it is a modern winery planted within sight of the sea in Bandol. The current generation farms organically and makes one of our favorite French rosés. The 2018 is an earthy, peachy delight with fine weight and dimension. This is a rosé meant for food, and a hearty Provençal fish stew immediately comes to mind. But it would also be a decadent delight with lobster. Magnums also available.


Treats from Brittany
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Château Arnauton Fronsac 2016 Cidre ‘Nerios’ (Johanna Cecillon)
Sale Price $19.99 – $215.90 case of twelve
2017 Poiré ‘Belenos’ (Johanna Cecillon)
Sale Price $24.99 – $269.90 case of twelve
Cidre and Poiré are beverages taken very seriously in Brittany and Normandy. At a tasting earlier this year we experienced the delicious, organic, sulfite-free fruit wines from

Merayo Bierzo MenciaJohanna Cecillon. Her orchards are planted with dozens of different ancient heirloom varieties. The Poiré is subtle yet persistent, with dry pear fruit laced with minerals. The Cidre is made from bittersweet apples and carries a ripe, full body and spicy tannins. Have these fantastic natural cidres with ripe cheeses or a roasted fish with a splash of Cidre.


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Dr. Frank Heyden’s Not Shy, Dry Style
2018 Oppenheimer Riesling Kabinett (Dr. Heyden)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Crios Malbec RoséWe missed Frank Heyden’s visit to Boston this year, but this Riesling speaks for him. All his wines pack a lot of unexpected flavor and body, but this so-called ‘dry style’ Kabinett is a screamer. The nose is pure Riesling, with apples and pears, while the palate has weight and the flavor of peach nectar, plus a mostly dry, beautifully long finish. Great for hot, spicy, sweet, and salty Thai-inspired foods.

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Vinho Verde
2017 Vinho Verde (Muralhas de Monção)
Sale Price $7.99 – $81.50 case of twelve
2017 Vinho Verde (Mica)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Figuière Le Saint André RoséThe height of summer is the best time to enjoy Portugal’s refreshing Vinho Verdes. These two versions reflect a new trend of more concentrated, less spritzy Vinho Verdes. The Muralhas de Monção is a pure varietal Alvarinho with lovely flavors of apples, almond, and ginger. Have this with a bucket of mussels and steamers.

Muga Rioja Rosé

Mica is an organic Vinho Verde with a peachy aroma, distinct minerality, and a slightly sweet, lip-smacking finish. These in concert make Mica a delicious match with spicy foods like a cod with shishito peppers and garlic lemon sauce.

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Specialty Foods

As the summer heat descends and the schedule of outdoor activities is seemingly endless, here are four cheeses you’ll want in your picnic basket or on the table at your barbecue.

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Mozzarella di Bufala Campana $5.69 per pc
(Regular Price $6.29)
Maplebrook Farm Burrata cheeseOur perennial summer favorite returns. Not only is the buffalo-milk version of mozzarella from Southern Italy at its best in the summer months due to the seasonal quality of the milk, it is the perfect match for ripe farmer’s market tomatoes and the abundance of basil you probably have growing on your porch. Add a baguette and a drizzle of olive oil for a simple yet luscious meal.

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Four Fat Fowl St. Stephen $25.99 per lb 
(Regular price $28.99)

Maplebrook Farm Burrata cheeseAmerican triple creams are coming into their own, and those from the northeast may even have the edge over their French counterparts given that they don’t have to undergo a long journey where they risk becoming overripe and unpleasantly bitter. Four Fat Fowl Creamery in Stephentown, NY (just past Pittsfield, MA) use their own rich Jersey cow milk with added Jersey cream to make this award-winning, buttery delight. The paste is all silky cream, while the bloomy rind adds a touch of earthy complexity. Superb with a sparkling wine, berries, and a drizzle of honey.

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Artikaas 18 month Gouda $12.99 per lb 
(Regular price $14.99)

The most popular style of Gouda in the Netherlands is also the most versatile. At 18 months, the texture is the best of both worlds – creamy and pliant with enough moisture to melt on a burger, while the crystallized amino acids that add a tantalizing crunch are just starting to appear. A year and a half of careful aging is plenty of time for a deep, complex, nutty flavor to develop.

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Seal Cove Farm Chèvre with Blueberry $6.49 per pc(Regular price $8.49)
 Mt Vikos Halloumi cheeseThe bright, citric tanginess of goat cheese is a natural complement to the sweetness and tartness of berries. Seal Cove Farm in Lamoine, ME includes plenty of Maine blueberries in this variation of their classic chèvre. The texture is light and fluffy, and the high quality of the goat milk from their own herd brings a clean, creamy flavor that sings in harmony with the ripe fruit. Perfect simply spread on a baguette.


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Wines of the Month — July 15, 2019 through August 14, 2019

2018 Touraine Sauvignon ‘Le Grand St-Vincent’ (Les Vignerons des Coteaux Romanais)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
Cantina Santa Maria La Palma Vermentino di Sardegna Aragosta Our best value Touraine Sauvignon is back. The 2018 vintage was kind to “Le Grand St-Vincent.” It is abundant and concentrated, with rich fruit and its usual dry finish. Great for salads and chèvre.

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2015 Saint-Chinian ‘Terrasse de Schiste’ (Mas de Soleiller)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
The Dampt family now makes wine in both Burgundy and Languedoc. This 2015 Saint-Chinian is a hearty, earthy, dry red with ripe, round tannins. A great wine for burgers, sausages, and grilled eggplant.


Domaine de Millet Côtes de Gascogne Rosé

2018 Pays d’Hérault (Les Hérétiques)
Sale Price $7.99 – $86.29 case of twelve
The 2018 Les Hérétiques is a lovely strawberry- and blueberry-scented Carignan from the Languedoc. Serve this fresh red slightly chilled with a tomato salad and grilled lamb chops.

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2016 Pinot Grigio (Guerrieri Rizzardi)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
This family estate makes an extremely dry Pinot Grigio with more weight and flavor than we expect for the price. Fine with rice and pasta.