Newsletter
November 15, 2017 – December 10, 2017
Feasting on Value
Verdicchio
2016 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi (Santa Barbara)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Verdicchio is the great white grape of the Adriatic province of Le Marche. The 2016 from Santa Barbara features prominent lemon and thyme flavors along with a crisp, dry finish. Great for a fish soup.
Vernaccia
2016 Vernaccia di San Gimignano (Casa alle Vacche)
Sale Price $10.99 – $112.10 case of twelve
Vernaccia is Tuscany’s best white and Casa alle Vacche makes a wonderful and affordable version. This is crisp and dry, nutty and long.
Castore
2016 Lazio–IGT Bellone (Cincinnato)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
We welcome back two fascinating wines from the Cincinnato cooperative in Lazio. The ‘Castore’ is produced from the full-flavored native white grape Bellone, and it thrills with its almost salty minerals, dry structure, and citrusy finish.
Polluce
2016 Lazio–IGT Nero Buono di Cori (Cincinnato)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Polluce is the native red from Cincinnato, made from Nero Buono di Cori. This smoky, peppery red is perfect for a pasta cacio e pepe.
Spencer for Ale
Trappist Holiday Ale (Spencer)
Sale Price $10.99 – $59.35 case of twelve
Located in Spencer, MA, the jam-making Spencer monastery has branched out into the beer business. We like all their efforts, but are especially enamored of their dark, spicy holiday ale. This rich, elegant ale will grace the holiday table and match well with a cheese and fruit platter before or after.
Listed prices are honored through December 10th, 2017. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 41, No. 12
The Cab Francs
2015 Saumur-Champigny ‘Tuffe’ (Château du Hureau)
Sale Price $15.99 – $163.10 case of twelve
2015 Chinon ‘Les Grézeaux’ (Bernard Baudry)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
If we were ever referred to as the ‘Cave de la Loire’ we would be flattered. Our love of the white grapes Muscadet and Chenin Blanc are undeniable. But you must know by now that we are totally nuts for Cabernet Franc. And who could not be amazed in light of the knowledge that this grape is the more ancient parent of Cabernet Sauvignon? And that Saumur-Champigny, Bourgueil, and Chinon are world-class values whose producers make wines that drink well young and have an incredible capacity to age? This month we have the juxtaposition of the 2015 vintage and two great producers. Château du Hureau’s Tuffe is a total charmer with its bright cherry and raspberry fruit, spicy tannins, and earthy, mushroomy finish. It’s the perfect weight for a grilled salmon or a roast fowl. The Chinon Grézeaux from Baudry is only made in warm, dry years. This vineyard is a perfect mid-slope with varied soils. The ample exposure to sun and the excellent drainage make this a supple early drinker and an excellent ager – and we recommend aging. After a few years this will be a dream with its truffled fruit, graphite earthiness, and weightless finish. The 2015 is a fabulous Grézeaux.
Truly Super Tuscan
2015 Bolgheri ‘Il Bruciato’ (Tenuta Guado al Tasso)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
The Guado al Tasso estate was inherited by the Antinoris in the 1830s from the long established Gheradesca family. Included in the massive estate were numerous castles and hundreds of Genovese watchtowers overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea. The aristocrats of the region planted French grape varieties instead of Sangiovese and kept their wines mainly for themselves. When Sassicaia released their first vintage to rave reviews the Bolgheri revolution had begun. The 2015 Il Bruciato is a great introduction to the region of the Tuscan Coast. A full-bodied blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah fermented in stainless steel and aged in small barrels, the wine is a seamless mix of Italian sunshine, fine French grapes, expensive oak barrels, and elegant fruit. Try this beauty with a fine porterhouse steak and a side of garlic-laced spinach.
Grand Cru Champagne
Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne (Le Mesnil)
Sale Price $44.99 – $485.90 case of twelve
Don’t drink Chardonnay? Try this Blanc de Blancs from the Grand Cru certified village of Mesnil. Other producers use the grapes of this village to produce wines with triple-digit price tags. Here is a modest cooperative that produces exceptional Champagne. Crisp, dry, lean, and long, this is an exceptional aperitif yet great for an oyster stew.
Our Final Quarterly Wine Sale of the Year begins
Friday November 24th and runs through
Sunday December 3rd.
Details: 10% off six bottles; 20% off twelve bottles. Wines of the Month (back page), fortified wines (Port, Sherry, Vermouth, etc.) and sparkling wines may be included for a 10% discount. Blue tagged (NET) wines and jug wines (1.5L and 3L) are excluded.
Beaune et Nuits
2015 Savigny Aux Serpentières Ier Cru (Domaine Pierre Guillemot)
Sale Price $47.99 – $460.70 case of twelve
We can’t resist this quotation from the Faber and Faber book Burgundy by Anthony Hanson (1982): “For years, at the time of vintage, Pierre Guillemot has sworn at his old vines in Aux Serpentières: ‘You disgust me with your miserable yield. I’ll pull you up.’ And then he tastes the wine they give.”
2015 Gevrey-Chambertin ‘Les Champs Remy’ (Closerie des Alisiers)
Sale Price $49.99 – $479.90 case of twelve
By Burgundian standards Gevrey-Chambertin is a large appellation, yet the good wines are hard to find. The 2015 Les Champs Remy is a fine example of a blood-red, iron-rich Gevrey-Chambertin that gives a lot now and will reward more later. Its wild berry fruit and ripe tannins carry the day.
Specialty Foods
Val D’Aosta Fontina DOP
$15.99 per lb.
(Regular price $16.99)
Though there are many versions, true Fontina is a raw cow’s milk alpine cheese made in the Aosta Valley in northwestern Italy. The best wheels are those available between November and February, as they are the ‘alpage’ variety, made with milk from cows that graze on lush mountain pastures at altitude during the summer months. Aged around 3 months, the cheese undergoes repeated washings to develop the rich, nutty, earthy, and grassy flavors typical of an alpine cheese, and the complex flavor profile only develops in intensity as the cheese ages. Fontina is an exceptional melting cheese to use in a fondue or gratin; alternatively, pair with fruit, honey, and a bold Nebbiolo-based red for an easy appetizer.
Montchevre Goat Brie $7.99 each
(Regular price $8.99)
As the leading goat cheese producer in the US after nearly 30 years in the business, Wisconsin’s Montchevre makes a variety of cheeses using fresh, local, and high quality goat’s milk. One of their newer specialty products is a creamy goat milk brie, attractively packaged in a decorative wooden box. This is a straightforward and delicious goat brie, with a bright, clean, and tangy flavor. The mild sweetness from the goat’s milk and a smooth velvety texture make this an enticing choice for holiday gatherings.
Central Formaggi Piccolo with Truffle
$18.99 per lb.
(Regular price $19.99)
Piccolo with Truffle is a young sheep’s milk cheese made by Central Formaggi on the Italian island of Sardinia. Aged only 15-20 days and infused with Black Summer Truffle shavings, it is a balanced semi-firm cheese with a creamy mouthfeel and a subtle earthiness. It is less sharp and intense than Moliterno al Tartufo, an aged pecorino with rich veins of black truffle paste, also produced by Central Formaggi. The truffle flavor complements the creaminess of the young cheese without overpowering it, leaving a relatively mild finish. Enjoy by the slice and paired with olives, nuts, or cured meats.
Champlain Valley Organic Triple Cream $24.99 per lb.
(Regular price $25.99)
Our focus this month is on cheeses for entertaining, and most would agree that triple creams are an essential component of the holiday cheese plate. Champlain Valley Creamery, based in Middlebury, VT, makes an organic triple cream which is as good as any French offering. Made from cultured whole milk with added cream, this decadent soft cheese features a rich and buttery flavor with an earthy bloomy rind. Sure to please cheese novices and connoisseurs alike, the 4 oz., individually wrapped crottins make for a quick and easy purchase. Simply pair with the sparkling wine of your choice!
Wines of the Month —November 15, 2017 through December 10, 2017
2015 Tempranillo (Flaco)
Sale Price $6.99 – $75.49 case of twelve
This value Spanish operation has again produced a classic, earthy, dry Tempranillo with spicy tannins.
2016 Ventoux Blanc ‘Granges des Dames’ (Les Vignerons du Mont Ventoux)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
The white Ventoux blend of Clairette and Grenache Blanc from Les Vignerons du Mont Ventoux is clean and crisp, floral and fruity.
2015 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (Masciarelli)
Sale Price $7.99 – $86.29 case of twelve
Masciarelli always delivers a best value Italian red. The 2015 Montepulciano is a big, bold, spicy red that holds its own with all manner of hearty, spicy foods.
2016 Ventoux Rouge ‘Les Boudalles’ (Domaine Brusset)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
This Gigondas producer also makes a savory, delicious red from Mont Ventoux. The Grenache fruit comes through, but a peppery dry finish makes it a thoroughly Rhone red.