Newsletter
August 15, 2020 – September 21, 2020
Un-Cool Grapes
We all deserve a little more summer to explore some foods and wines that we may have missed for having been locked up. Here are some un-cool grapes and/or wines that are local heroes where they are produced yet need better recognition abroad. They are so un-cool that they are, of course, super cool.
Godello
2019 Valdeorras ‘Louro’ (Rafael Palacios)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
From their headquarters in Rioja, the Palacios family has dispatched their sons to various regions of Spain to make superlative wines. First it was Alvaro, who helped jumpstart the revolution in Priorat. Next, Alvaro and Ricardo started an estate in Bierzo. Then Rafael landed in nearby Valdeorras, where he created a great estate of his own by buying small plots of old vines. Louro is made from the Godello grape, grown in the mountainous interior of Galicia. The 2019 has soaring aromatics and great minerality, resulting in a flinty white with hints of green apple and fennel. This is a terrific white for flavorful fish such as striped bass and swordfish, and we feel it deserves recognition as one of the best white wines of Spain.
Sylvaner
2017 Sylvaner (Domaine Weinbach)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Sylvaner is literally losing ground. Once the most planted grape in Germany, it is now merely the third. In Alsace, growers might as well put ‘old vines’ on every label of Sylvaner because very few are planting new vines. Still, it’s safe from extinction thanks to some amazing examples from Franken in Germany and this one from Alsace in France. The Faller family of Domaine Weinbach cultivate their Sylvaner in the Clos des Capucins, the original vineyard from the days that the estate was a monastery. The 2017 is a beguiling example of the grape— though reticent at first, it bursts on the palate with lip-smacking flavor and a crisp, lively, dry finish. An added bonus, the estate has been organic and biodynamic for many years. Try this with a pork roast with cabbage.
Cortese
2019 Gavi (Tenuta San Pietro)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
Gavi is located in Southeastern Piedmont, just a steep, curvy road from the seaport of Genoa in Liguria. In fact, it was in the fish restaurants of Genoa that Gavi first gained renown. Today, it is appreciated for its versatility and its easy-going, fresh and fruity flavor. The 2019 from San Pietro has ripe, fleshy peach and apricot fruit. Made from organic grapes (and certified as vegan) this wine is ripe and ready for pasta tossed with mushrooms and garlic scapes.
Jacquère – Snow in August
2019 Abymes (Domaine Labbé)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
Variously described as tasting like a cool mountain stream and melting snow, white wines from the Savoie’s Abymes appellation are delightfully refreshing and low (11%) in alcohol. Made from the Jacquère grape, the 2019 from Domaine Labbé has cool, crisp apple flavor and is perfect for simple fish dishes or plates full of cheese, charcuterie and fresh fruit.
Pinot Bianco
2018 Pinot Bianco ‘Schulthauser’ (St. Michael-Eppan)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
In his book “Barolo to Valpolicella: The Wines of Northern Italy,” Nicolas Belfrage quotes St. Michael-Eppan’s cellar master Hans Terzer back in 1999 saying “I believe in Pinot Bianco – it’s our reality. It’s the market that doesn’t believe.” Well, Hans, we’re believers too. We continue to sell a lot of Pinot Grigio, and a fair amount of it is the very good version from St. Michael-Eppan. But forgive us: the Pinot Bianco is so much better. And the Schulthauser, for just a few dollars more than their basic offering, is simply an amazing wine that sells at an astonishingly fair price. Though this is a cooperative winery of more than 300 growers, Schulthauser comes from a small band of dedicated growers in a 12 hectare area at around 500 meters. The juice is fermented in stainless steel and then 20% is aged in large French oak, giving the final wine a nuttiness and creaminess within a fine, fruity and complex mouthfeel. A fabulous choice for a seafood risotto.
Sauvignon-Semillon
2017 Bordeaux Blanc (Château Argadens)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
We suppose neither Sauvignon nor Semillon qualify as un-cool grapes, but put together as a Bordeaux Blanc, they become a not-very-much-in-demand wine. Yet this example from an excellent 2017 vintage represents a delicious bargain that we couldn’t leave out. Château Argadens is owned by the Sichel family, a prominent Bordeaux owner and negociant. The blend here is 65% Sauvignon augmented in body by the opulent Semillon. Perfect with roasted haddock on a bed of braised greens.
Listed prices are honored through September 21st, 2020. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 44, No. 9
Chat Fou
2018 Côtes du Rhône ‘Chat Fou’ (Eric Texier)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Eric Texier is a serious vigneron when it comes to his Syrah from the Northern Rhône hill of Brézème, but with this cuvée he recognizes the need for an easy-going, playful, summery red. Chat Fou is mostly Grenache, lifted and lightened by the addition of 10% of the white grapes Clairette and Roussanne. It is advised to chill this slightly, and we further recommend serving with grilled corn, fresh tomatoes and spicy greens al fresco.
Tip Top Rosé
2019 Chinon (Bernard Baudry)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Unless there’s an 11th hour entry, we have a winner: Bernard Baudry’s 2019 Chinon is the rosé of the year. This delicious Cabernet Franc rosé zigs and zags across the palate with muskmelon aromas, zesty red fruits and peppery spice. This is out of this world. Enjoy with salmon and salsa.
Selección Especial Ardanza
2010 Rioja Reserva ‘Viña Ardanza’ (La Rioja Alta)
Sale Price $39.99 – $407.90 case of twelve
Viña Ardanza by La Rioja Alta was introduced in 1942. Since then, only four vintages have been designated (by their own decree) as Especial. Given how extraordinary the 2001 was and the 2010 is, we trust their judgment. The other vintages were 1964 and 1973, which are probably amazing still. Even more amazing is that a ten year old wine is a current release yet also relatively good value. Without being heavy, the 2010 is gorgeously floral and savory. It rested three years in oak and several more in bottle before being deemed ready for release. It’s great to have a fully mature red wine to just grab off the shelf, but it’s also one that you can put away for those anniversary and birth years for the future.
Los Rieslings
2018 Graacher Himmelreich Auslese (Joh. Jos. Prüm)
Sale Price $29.99 per 375ml – $305.90 case of twelve
2017 Brauneberger Kabinett (Fritz Haag)
Sale Price $21.99 – $224.30 case of twelve 2018
Oppenheimer Sackträger Old Vines GG (Dr. Heyden)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Riesling is an undeniably great grape variety that will always need explaining. It’s that great and that complex. Yes, some people will always think it’s always going to be sweet. Others believe those sweet Rieslings are among the best wines in the world. So in this offering we have reversed the explanation of Riesling’s range of ‘dry to sweet’ to ‘sweet to dry.’ JJ Prüm is acknowledged as one of the great wine estates, not just in the Mosel but in the entire wine world. Their wines age effortlessly for decades, providing thrilling wines for those with patience. 2018 was a great vintage for German wine and this half bottle of gloriously sweet Auslese will age magnificently.
Another well-known producer in the Mosel is Fritz Haag. Their entry level Brauneberger Kabinett is way beyond entry level in the rest of the wine world. Firstly, it comes from the great Juffer and Juffer-Sonnenuhr vineyards. Secondly, it’s medium-dry and weighs in at only 8.5%, while managing to be both delicate and intense. Thirdly, it’s insanely delicious. Here the great slate mineral flavors of the Mosel are in full bore.
Now we veer off from the Mosel to the Rheinhessen, where Frank Heyden is doing amazing work. This is Dr. Heyden’s first wine in the Großes Gewächs designation, signifying a producer’s best single-vineyard dry wines. This old vine Riesling is complex and dry with full body and flavor, and it has both intense fruit aroma and deep earthiness. Have this with a spicy curry to appreciate its weight and character.
Le Grand Touraine
2019 Touraine Sauvignon ‘Le Grand St. Vincent’ (Les Vignerons des Coteaux Romanais)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
It took a little longer than usual, but we did receive our annual pallet of ‘Le Grand St. Vincent’ Sauvignon Blanc. The 2019 edition of this Loire mainstay is as good as ever with its citrusy fruit and crisp, dry finish.
Cru Bourgeois Médoc
2016 Médoc Cru Bourgeois (Château Haut Queyran)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
No one denies the greatness of Bordeaux, but when bottles trade in the triple digits, we are content to park in one of our favorite campgrounds – the Cru Bourgeois. It may not have a view of the ocean, but there are always solid values to be found in this designation. The 2016 Haut Queyran delivers fine Merlot fruit and hearty Cabernet Sauvignon structure to make this an unmistakable and gripping Médoc. Superb with blue cheeses and beef.
Wine Cask Discount Policy
These are our EVERYDAY discounts:
15% off of a whole case.
10% off of a mixed case.
Wines of the Month (four on last page), sparkling and fortified wines (Port, Sherry and Vermouth) receive a maximum 10% discount.
Above discounts apply to all wines in the store except 1.5L and 3L sizes, and are reflected in the case prices listed in the newsletter.
Specialty Foods
Say Goodbye to Summer
It’s New England, and as summer winds down and fall fast
approaches, hints of the cooler days ahead are already in the air, though temperatures remain high. This month we are bringing in some fresh relief, and one surprisingly sharp bite for contrast.
Narragansett Burrata $9.99 / 8 oz each
(Regular Price $10.99)
– Pasteurized Cow –
This lovely, hand-stretched mozzarella from Providence, RI is filled with a creamy stracciatella (cream with fine strands of mozzarella). Enjoy it simply at room temperature with olive oil, a sprinkle of sea salt and red pepper flakes, and serve with the ripest tomatoes you can find. Or, elevate pasta night and place a ball in the center of hot linguini with sautéed vegetables.
Provolone Mandarone $30.99 per lb
(Regular Price $32.99)
– Pasteurized Cow –
Prepare yourself...one bite and you will be as hooked as we are! This one ranks in our top 10 cheese experiences and it is certainly memorable. This Provolone Mandarone (which translates to large tangerine, referring to the shape) is selected from artisan cheesemakers throughout Northern Italy. After 36 months of aging, the result is a wonderfully sharp, savory delight. Because it is so rich and intense, it is best eaten in small portions, paired with a full bodied red wine and fresh, hearty bread.
In House Caprese $9.99 per lb
(Regular Price $10.99)
– Pasteurized Cow –
Made with Maplebrook Farm Ciliegine, olive oil, marinated roasted tomatoes, fresh basil and sea salt. This bright salad will make a great addition to your next meal as a cool side dish, or a sandwich on a fresh baguette. We’re fond of bringing a tub along to socially-distanced picnics.
Wines of the Month — August 15, 2020 through September 21, 2020
2016 Ventoux ‘Les Boudalles’ (Brusset)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
The slopes of Mount Ventoux continue to produce great Rhône Valley reds. Brusset’s Les Boudalles is stuffed with Provençal fruit and sunshine.
2018 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico (Sartarelli)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
Verdicchio may be Italy’s most under-rated white. Sartarelli delivers a full-flavored, balanced white that is perfect for seafood and grilled vegetables.
2017 Naoussa (Vaeni)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
Naoussa in Northern Greece is home to the distinguished Xinomavro grape. The 2017 Vaeni is incredible value in a hearty, spicy, deep red wine. Fine with lamb and rice.
2018 Nero d’Avola (La Calla)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
La Calla has produced another great-value red from Sicily. This is fruity, earthy and rich in flavor. Great for pasta and eggplant.
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