Newsletter
March 15, 2014 – April 14, 2014
White Vines
2012 Vin de Loire ‘Vignes Blanches’ (Domaine de la Fruitière)
Sale Price $9.99 – $101.90 case of twelve
Domaine de la Fruitière is mainly a Muscadet producer, but in the 2012 vintage we found their white blend to be an excellent value. The dry and zesty Vignes Blanches, a blend of 60% Melon de Bourgogne (a.k.a. Muscadet), 30% Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc, is perfect for fish cakes and baked beans.
Mâcon
2012 Mâcon-Villages (Joseph Drouhin)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Joseph Drouhin is one of the best growers and negociants in Burgundy. As a grower Drouhin has converted most of its vineyards to organic and as a negociant the firm encourages other growers to do the same. The Drouhin 2012 Mâcon-Villages is a focused dry white with deep, earthy flavor. The fruit is very subtle, but the flavors are energetic and persistent.
Sauvignon de Touraine
2012 Sauvignon de Touraine ‘L’arpent des Vaudons’ (J.F. Mérieaul)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc is one of our most popular white wines. These crisp whites flecked with citrus, flower blossoms, and minerals are standard food-friendly French classics. The Sauvignon from Mérieau is culled from 60-year-old vines and the intensity shows in its lifting aroma and long dry finish. Perfect with a sole meunière and small boiled potatoes and, while we’re at it, with a spinach salad with chèvre.
Pure and Romo
2012 Cheverny ‘Pure’ (Domaine des Huards)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
2010 Cour-Cheverny ‘Romo’ (Domaine des Huards)
Sale Price $15.99 – $163.10 case of twelve
We must have the best selection of Cheverny and Cour-Cheverny in the Commonwealth. Yet the two wines from conjoined appelations are very different. French wine law states that Cheverny Blanc must be a blend of Sauvignon Blanc (85%) and Chardonnay, so that’s what producers claim to have in their vineyards. The 2012 Cheverny ‘Pure’ is given a boost of richness from the Chardonnay, but largely features the racy Sauvignon.
On the other hand, Cour-Cheverny must be 100% Romorantin, a rare grape that became rare because it was difficult to ripen. Old vines and patience make Romorantin and Cour-Cheverny a thrilling wine. Growers must harvest late to get the proper balance of sugar and acid. Then good vintages take a few years to blossom after bottling, which is why we latched on to the last lot of the 2010 from Huards. It smells of flint and flower blossoms. The palate is honeyed yet dry, the finish crisp and earthy. Despite its minuscule plantations Romo is here to stay.
Loin de l’Oeil and Ondenc – Occitan Survivors
2012 Gaillac ‘Les Greilles’ (Causse Marines)
Sale Price $21.99 – $224.30 case of twelve
Not too long ago Gaillac, in France’s wild Southwest, was part of Occitania, where the inhabitants spoke Occitan, known also as the Langue d’Oc, which eventually gave way to French. Some words remain as do some ancient grape varieties. Causse Marines is a supporter of the lost grapes of the Pays d’Oc. They have the single largest plot of Ondenc which in this cuvée they blend with Loin de l’oeil (or Len de l’ell) to create a wonderfully intense dry white with spicy ginger and herb flavors. This wine is biodynamic, organic, and gorgeous.
Listed prices are honored through April 14th, 2014. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 38, No. 4
The 2012 Pierredon is an unfiltered Côtes du Rhône that is packed with hearty fruit and deep concentration. This is a super-rich, Grenache-based great value from the South of France.
The importer of this wine claims that one feature that makes it a ‘classic’ Gigondas is that in making the wine the grape bunches are not de-stemmed. Of course the classic blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre is also a great contributing factor. The age of the wine also helps, but leaving the stems on has added an entirely pleasing rusticity and makes a better balanced wine. This wine is in a great place right now for a nice grilled steak and a crisp salad.
Among all the big names in Tuscan wine Carmignano is a smug survivor with a long history. Dating back to 1716 and planted mainly to Sangiovese, the original vineyard area also included a grape introduced by the Medici, the ‘Uve Francesca.’ The French grape turns out to be Cabernet Sauvignon and pre-dated the Super Tuscan fascination with French grapes. Today the area of Carmignano is the same size as it was in the 1700s, making it one of Italy’s smallest DOCGs. The 2009 Montefortini from Ambra is earthy and elegant with a depth and breed unaltered by trendiness.
When proprietor Luc Perrin died we worried whether his familial Domaine would continue to produce the same style of graceful, accessible Châteauneuf-du-Pape. A few years have gone by, and we can report that his sister and nephew are maintaining and adding to the quality and still delivering one of the most fairly priced wines in a high-priced appellation. The 2011 is ripe and smooth with pretty red fruits spiked with wild herbs. It is full-bodied and graceful, brawny yet light on its feet. It drinks well now and will do so easily over the next five years.
The 2004 Imperial Gran Reserva was the Wine Spectator wine of the year for 2013 and we, lovers of Rioja, were embarrassed that we did not have it on our shelves. Instead it reminded us to re-try the great 2005 Imperial Reserva. Having done so we were reminded what a great value aged Riojas can be. This wine is a seamless mix of a great vintage, acute barrel ageing, stunning aromatics, and incredible smoothness in a bottle that could only come from Rioja.
2011 Jumilla (Juan Gil)
We have noticed fewer California wineries bottling varietal Merlots, but Bordeaux Châteaux keep putting impressive Merlot-heavy wines into the market at great prices. The most recent one is the 2009 from Château du Barry. This smooth rich red is loaded with charming cherry fruit and a hint of toasty oak. Tannins keep this full red wine balanced and dry.
The fine flavors of off-dry German Riesling have not been lost on us, but when we taste a thrilling dry version like this Ruwer Trocken from Kartäuserhof all of our taste buds sing with delight. Culled from a truly great site, the Karthäuserhofberg, this wine is a joyful collision of rocks and fruit in a way that only Riesling can deliver.
2013 Albariño (Raimat) 
2012 La Mancha (Pallas)
2012 Alentejano (Monte da Vaqueira)
2012 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (Valle Reale)