Newsletter
March 15, 2019 – April 14, 2019
From the Well
2016 Côtes du Rhône Blanc ‘Artesis’ (Ogier)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Bandol
2015 Bandol (Gros’ Noré)
Sale Price $39.99 – $407.90 case of twelve
In The Wines of France, Jacqueline Friedrich evocatively writes that “Alain Pascal makes full-bodied, dark reds that are smooth and balanced and seem to have swallowed the southern sun.” Alain, the son of a very impressively sized father named Honoré, named his estate Gros’ Noré in his honor. In Bandol the Mourvèdre grape takes center stage, and only a skilled grape grower can tame this tannic grape. The 2015 Gros’ Noré is deep and rich with amazing scents of olives and herbs suffused with dark fruits and tenderly ripe tannins. This is as big as its namesake, but will be a graceful match with a seared tuna steak served on a bed of chard.
Gigondas
2016 Gigondas (Domaine La Font de Notre Dame)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
Searching for something from the Rhone that is decidedly better than a simple Côtes du Rhône, but not as expensive as a Châteauneuf-du-Pape? Follow your nose to the terrific La Font de Notre Dame Gigondas. Even as prices of Gigondas have gone up, the Roux brothers keep their wine among the affordable. This big yet balanced Grenache-based red will be perfect for a flash-seared leg of lamb steak with rosemary, thyme, and roasted potatoes.
Back in Pink
2018 Côtes de Provence Rosé (Houchart)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
Cairanne
2016 Cairanne ‘Vieilles Vignes’ (Domaine Alary)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape ‘Cuvée Girard’ (Raymond Usseglio & Fils)
Sale Price $49.99 – $509.90 case of twelve
Listed prices are honored through April 14th, 2019. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 43, No. 4
As we approach peak season for the famed Valençay cheese, the ash-covered pyramid-shaped goat cheese from the Loire, we ask ourselves: what better time to introduce a new wine from Valençay? Mary Taylor is a negociant who curates wines from France and Portugal. Her red Loire offering is this blend of equal parts Gamay, Côt (Malbec), and Pinot Noir made by Sophie Siadou. With an enticing peppery spice aroma, delightful fresh raspberry and cherry fruit, and low alcohol (12.5%), this light red is the perfect candidate for a modest chill on warm sunny days. Served at any temperature though, it’s a fine choice for a picnic with cold leftover roast chicken and, of course, some fresh goat cheese.
Even though Chianti Classico is a unified region by virtue of its Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (the highest standard given to Italian wine), it is also split into nine different townships. For instance, Radda is the highest in elevation and Gaiole has a particularly stony tufa soil. Our latest Classico crush comes from Castelnuovo Berardenga, the southernmost zone. This township is a stone’s throw from Siena and a slingshot away from Montalcino. Lecci e Brocchi’s 2015 Chianti is a darkly fruited Sangiovese. It has fresh cherry fruit and dry, concentrated flavors of juniper and rosemary. The finish is spicy and long. This deep, substantial Chianti is perfect for a ragù of boar or a roast of lamb. 
As we have written before, Dolcetto is one of the most charming and versatile red wines. In Piedmont, there are not really any big brands. Most wines come from family wineries and production is modest. So, when we taste a good Dolcetto, we leap. Elio Grasso’s 2017 has the lovely purple color of Dolcetto, with juicy plum fruit and finely layered tannin. Perfect for a gratin of cauliflower and a side of wilted, tossed radicchio.
When an unseasonably cool night predictably hits this time of year, or a juicy cheeseburger is what’s for dinner, this is the deep dark red to cozy up with. The Monte da Caçada is a blend of Touriga Nacional, Alicante Bouschet, and Syrah from the Alentejo, a region that encompasses the southern third of Portugal and has been vital to the development of Portugal’s wine industry. Despite our market being flooded with Portuguese ‘value wines’ there are still well-made and balanced gems to be found such as this one. 
To some, Scharzhofberger is the greatest vineyard in the Mosel. Steep, loaded with slate, and perfectly exposed, this is a heavenly slice of Riesling. We sold this vintage before for $17.99, but the wholesaler ‘lost’ a pile in their warehouse and we grabbed more at this lower price. Von Kesselstatt’s 2015 is gorgeous, showing gentle early-maturing floral aromas and flinty flavors that sing. It’s all about slate, gorgeous slate, apples, perfect apples, and minerality, precious minerality. This is a dry-styled Kabinett that will stand up to spicy seafood and noodles.
The Loire valley family Domaine Luneau-Papin makes only single-vineyard Muscadet of superb quality. If they were a small producer in Chablis, we would be talking about their well known Premier Cru vineyards, steep prices, and small allocations. It is not a stretch to call their wines Burgundian – after all, the Muscadet grape is the Melon de Bourgogne. Their 2017 old vine Clos des Allées digs deep into the mica schist soil to extract a fascinating vein of mineralty, surprisingly springy weight, and a finish that lacks for nothing. Have this with a shellfish risotto or a simple broiled sole dish.
It’s always exciting to welcome a new wine to our shelves that is at once delicious and organic and at a great price. The Grechetto from Moretti Omero is one of those wines. It’s also a white wine from Umbria that’s not yet another Orvieto. It’s expansive, with ripe yellow plums, almonds, and a compelling bittersweet dry finish.
Located near Montefalco, Moretti Omero is a working organic farm recognized both for their wine and for olive oils. When Omero took over his family’s vineyards, he switched to organic viticulture, and in 1992 he received the second ever organic certification for a winery in Umbria. His daughter continues the practices he started of low intervention in the vineyards and in the cellar. The wine is best enjoyed after a 10 minute recovery from the chill of the fridge. As you wait for it to warm up, you can ponder the quote from The Odyssey on the label. (As Omero is the Italian equivalent of Homer, it’s a charming nod.) Then enjoy with seared scallops or even sushi.
Mauzac is the traditional grape of Limoux in the Languedoc region of France. Though Limoux is most famous for the sparkling Blanquette de Limoux (Blanquette being the local nickname for Mauzac), a recent visit to Château Rives-Blanques had us impressed with their still representation of the grape. Cooler than the rest of the Languedoc due to its elevation and the Atlantic influence from the west, Limoux’s whites are characteristically taut and fresh, with Mauzac in particular boasting zesty acidity. Rives-Blanques’ 100% Mauzac is bright and grassy, with tart quince and green apple flavors. A honeyed creaminess on the mid-palate gives way to a pleasantly tangy, salty, and slightly bitter finish with good persistence. Pair with stuffed clams. 
Limburger, the proverbial “stinky” cheese, has a semi-soft texture and a flavor that becomes more intense with age. Although delicious on its own, it is often garnished with mustard and raw onion.
Diva (produced by Arethusa Farm in Connecticut) has a bold and tangy flavor combined with a sweet and gooey interior.
Hailing from north-western France, Pont L’Eveque can trace its ancestry back to 1263 AD. This cheese is pungent and nutty, with subtle notes of grass. 
Muralhas de Monção is a fantastic value in varietal Alvarinho in the form of Vinho Verde. This decidedly dry and barely fizzy white delivers long, delicious flavor with its gingery apricot fruit. 
