Newsletter

February 15, 2016 – March 14, 2016

Grenache Happy

The winter months are a good time to get Grenache Happy. The mostly Mediterranean areas that grow Grenache provide wine that warms the palate and and everything else down to the bones. These wines are not all pure Grenache, but they show the grape’s versatility from region to region and producer to producer.

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De Nimes
2013 Costières de Nimes ‘Les Cimels’ (Château d’Or et de Gueules)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
‘Les Cimels’ Château d’Or et de Gueules Costières de NimesIn the case of Les Cimels we have Grenache used to lend seasoning and depth to an earthy, spicy wine that is mostly Syrah. This producer in Nimes uses some fresh Carignan to give a jolt of fruit, along with the deep, dark Grenache to make an aromatic and hearty mix that will be an excellent match with a long-braised lamb shank with couscous.

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Caladoc
2013 Vin de Pays de Vaucluse ‘La Brusquembille’ (Domaine Pique-Basse)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
‘La Brusquembille’ Vin de Pays de Vaucluse Domaine Pique-Basse While no Grenache is found in this biodynamic blend of Syrah, Merlot, and Caladoc this wine from Domaine Pique-Basse is included thanks to the Caladoc, a recent variety created from the crossing of Grenache and Malbec. One can easily detect the Grenache lineage of this full-bodied blend in its ripe aromatics and deep color. With Syrah adding savory, smoky, and spicy elements, this is perfect for a skirt steak with tapenade.

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Cairanne
2012 Côtes du Rhône Villages Cairanne (Domaine Roche)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Côtes du Rhône Villages Cairanne Domaine RocheCairanne will no longer be just a Côtes du Rhône Villages. As of the 2014 vintage it will be a stand-alone appellation like Vacqueyras and Gigondas. And with this promotion prices will rise. The 2012 from Domaine Roche (70% Grenache and 30% Syrah) is a pleasingly peppery, food-friendly red that is ready to pair with a spicy pork loin and long-simmered gigante beans.

Vacqueyras
2011 Vacqueyras ‘Les 2 Monardes’ (Domaine de la Monardière)
Sale Price $23.99 – $244.70 case of twelve
‘Les 2 Monardes’ Vacqueyras Domaine de la MonardièreHaving graduated from a Côtes du Rhône Villages
designation itself back in 1990, Vacqueyras can welcome Cairanne into the club. ‘Les 2 Monardes,’ also composed of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah, from vines that average 40 years of age, is wonderfully delicate for a Vacqueyras. Earthy and spicy, with violets, olives, and berries in the nose, this is a very pretty wine that will complement lamb cutlets (no surprise here) or even a seared duck breast.

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Priorat
Buil & Giné Priorat ‘G’ 2013 Priorat ‘G’ (Buil & Giné)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
We have now crossed over into Spain where Grenache is called Garnacha, and is more widely planted than in France. Buil & Giné’s entry-level Priorat is a super-serious blend of Cariñena and Garnacha grown on slate soils. Full and rich, with fresh cherry and raspberry fruit in stately procession towards a dry mineral finish.

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Who’s Your Daddy?
2013 Châteauneuf-du-Pape ‘Réserve’ (Roger Sabon)
Sale Price $37.99 – $387.50 case of twelve
Roger Sabon Châteauneuf-du-Pape ‘Réserve’The most generous and complex of the Grenache growing areas is Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The 2013 Réserve from Roger Sabon uses some Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Cinsault, but the base is the powerfully rich Grenache grown in the red clay and stony soils of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This is a packed, powerful, yet smooth wine that will be a fine match with a rack of lamb and a gratin.

Listed prices are honored through March 14th, 2016. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 40, No. 3

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Vernaccia
2014 Vernaccia di San Gimignano ‘Tradizionale’
(Montenidoli)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Montenidoli Vernaccia di San Gimignano ‘Tradizionale’ The Gambero Rosso 2014 edition of Italian Wines began its essay on the Montenidoli estate by writing that “This is not only a sensational San Gimignano estate but also a benchmark for the whole of Italy, thanks to its history, style, and deep-rooted, radical convictions which rise far above standardization.” Yes, it is a sensational estate, guided by the amazing Elisabetta Fagiuoli. In the winery a Greek statue of Achilles stands fierce to watch over the barrels. The vineyards, while located in the heart of Tuscany, feel like they are part of a large forest. Natural and organic seem normal here. The wines are land-rooted with only very subtle fruit flavor. And this all proves true with the 2014 ‘Tradizionale’ Vernaccia di San Gimignano. Sure it is made of grapes, but it tastes as much of the stony earth, the herbal fields, and the surrounding forest. A compelling dry white for fresh fish poached in a mixture of tomato, olive oil and herbs.

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Chianti Riserva
2005 Chianti Classico Riserva (Castello di Monastero)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Castello di Monastero Chianti Classico RiservaChianti is not usually thought of as an age-
worthy wine, but this mature Chianti Classico Riserva proves otherwise. Small doses of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot give the 2005 Castelo di Monastero some Super-Tuscan attributes such as its deep, berry fruit and gorgeous spicy tannins. Try this with a fruit-stuffed pork loin or a full-blown, kale heavy ribollita.

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Goose Generations
2014 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ‘G3’ (Goose Ridge Vineyards)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
The folks at Goose Ridge Vineyards are third-generation grape growers who have now started to bottle wine from their own vineyards. The 2014 ‘G3’is a terrific value in an earthbound, gently fruity, delicately tannic Washington State Cabernet Sauvignon. Plum and blackberry fruit lead to a long, elegant finish.

Next Vintage Up
2010 Puisseguin Saint-Emilion (Château Côtes de Saint Clair)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Château Côtes de Saint Clair Puisseguin Saint-EmilionThe 2009 of this was a big success. And while 2010 is also an excellent vintage, the two are very different. 2009 was a warm year and the Côtes de Saint Clair was packed with deep, dark, ripe fruit. The 2010 vintage has ripe fruit, but also a more firm tannic structure. Bordeaux winemakers call a vintage like 2010 ‘classique’ and wouldn’t mind if it happened every year. The 2010 Côtes de Saint Clair takes a bit of time to open up, but when it does it shows a more complex earthiness than the ripe and ready (and straightforwardly delicious) 2009. Try this at first with a bit of bread and cheese and proceed from there. For some this wine might need a year or two to show its true potential. Right now it’s a classic young Saint-Emilion.

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Primitivo
2013 Salento Primitivo ‘Terramare’ (Feudi di Guagnano)
Sale Price $9.99 – $101.90 of twelve
Primitivo equals Zinfandel, but Feudi di Guagnano ain’t in California. Their Primitivo is dry, earthy, aromatic – and amazing with a dish of broccoli rabe, orecchietti, and spicy sausage. This wine is more subtle and crisp than most Primitivo/Zinfandel and a great value.

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Enlightenment Brings on the Funk
Enlightenment Ales American Farmhouse Ale ‘Transcendence’American Farmhouse Ale ‘Transcendence’ (Enlightenment Ales)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
Beer and Ale styles keep on changing, but if you see Farmhouse Ale on the label expect an earthy, richly flavored ale. The no.6 Transcendence from our local heroes at Enlightenment is a gorgeously complex ale with the right balance of yeasty richness and farmhouse funk to make a Belgian chicken and leek stew a supreme delight. Also a natural match with this month’s aged Gouda.


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Three Profound Austrians

Our great appreciation of dry Austrian whites runs counter to our rational ordering abilities, so it stands to (un-) reason that we purchased a little too much of these wines and we promise never to do it again. Until the next time. We hesitate to call these close-outs because they are some of our absolute favorite white wines.

2014 Roter Veltliner ‘Fels am Wagram’
(Wimmer Czerny)

Wimmer Czerny Roter Veltliner ‘Fels am Wagram’ Sale Price $15.99 – $163.10 case of twelve
This biodynamic rare white Roter Veltiner from the land of Steiner himself captivated us with its spicy aroma and crisp dry finish. Perfect for curries and lentils.

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Prager Hinter der Burg Grüner Veltliner Federspiel2014 Hinter der Burg Grüner Veltliner Federspiel (Prager)
Sale Price $29.99 – $305.90 of twelve
Prager wines never disappoint, as this superb single vineyard ‘Hinter der Burg’ attests. This is as dry as can be yet expresses delicate apricot fruit, hints of wild herbs, and a stony, peppery finish. Great with simple fresh fish.

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2013 Wösendorfer Kollmütz Weissburgunder ‘Smaragd’ (Rudi Pichler)
Sale Price $49.99 – $509.90 of twelve
Rudi Pichler Wösendorfer Kollmütz Weissburgunder ‘Smaragd’Smaragd is the highest designation for Wachau wines that are harvested late and fermented totally dry. Rudi Pichler makes a bunch of Rieslings and Grüners, but only one phenomenal Weissburgunder The Kollmütz vineyard in Wösendorf has a southerly exposure and deep chalky soils that are perfect for Pinot Blanc. Yes, Pinot Blanc, and it’s amazing.

Sale Dates

The First Quarterly Sale of the Year begins
Friday February 26th and runs through
Sunday March 6th.
Details: 10% off six bottles; 20% off twelve bottles.
Wines of the Month (back page), fortified wines (Port, Sherry, Vermouth, etc.) and sparkling wines may be included for a 10% discount. Blue tagged (NET) wines and jug wines (1.5L and 3L) are excluded.

Specialty Foods

Bijou $8.99 per lb.
(Regular price $9.99)

Vermont Creamery Bijou cheeseBijou (French for “jewel”) is a small format French-style crottin made with pasteurized goat’s milk from family farms at Vermont Creamery. The curd coagulates overnight, drains into cheese cloth and is hand shaped into little crottins, then dried and ripened for one week. Geotrichum rind with sweet and yeasty flavors, the cheese gains some sharpness with age. Ideal on a toasted baguette and served with a heaping salad.

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Caña de Oveja $13.99 per lb.
(Regular price $16.99)

Caña de Oveja cheeseA soft-ripened cheese made with pasteurized sheep’s milk by Lorenzo Abellen in Murcia, Spain. The distinct log shape and bloomy white rind make it is easy to mistake for Caña de Cabra, Abellen’s goat’s milk variety. Aged 21 days, it ripens from the outside in, so the cheese closest to the rind will be gooey with a crumbly center. Creamy and buttery, it acquires tanginess with age.

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L’Amuse Gouda $22.99 per lb.
(Regular price $25.99)

This deep amber colored two-year gouda is made with pasteurized cow’s milk, hand selected, and ripened by cheesemonger Betty Kooster at her L’amuse cheese shop in Santpoort-Noord. Unlike most Dutch Goudas, which are matured in cooler temperatures, L’amuse is aged at a mild temperature, allowing for fuller flavors to develop. A melt-in-your-mouth velvety texture with well distributed protein crystals. Aromas of roasted hazelnut and caramel, with meat and cellar notes. Nutty, caramel and salty flavors and a complex and lingering finish. We are very excited to offer this new-to-us Gouda, one of the best we’ve had!

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Fromager d'Affinois Campagnier cheeseFromager D’Affinois
Campagnier $12.99 per lb.
(Regular price $15.99)

Fromager D’Affinois’ slightly more punchy sister, this French pasteurized cow’s milk double-creme is washed in annatto, which yields a bright orange rind and a subtle fruitiness in the flavor.


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Wines of the Month — February 15, 2016 through March 14, 2016

Domaine Bousquet Tupungato Malbec 2015 Tupungato Malbec (Domaine Bousquet)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
This unoaked Malbec defies the category with its zesty minerality and exquisite balance. The nose is floral, the fruit is cherry, and the finish is crisp and dry. And it’s organic.

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2014 Carmenère Reserva (Montgras)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
Montgras Carmenère ReservaRed fruits and dusty cocoa are the primary flavors of this full-bodied Chilean Carmenère. It also features soft, ripe tannins, and subtle herb flavor. A great red for Wednesday’s meatloaf and mashed potatoes.


Di Filippo Grechetto 2014 Grechetto (Di Filippo)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
This is a turning into a Wine Cask favorite white. Di Filippo’s Umbrian Grechetto is a honey-scented, crisp dry white that is perfect for seared fish or roast chicken. It too is organic.

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Terra Grande Alentejano Reserva2013 Alentejano Reserva (Terra Grande)
Sale Price $7.99 – $86.29 case of twelve
Once again Portuguese reds rule the value roost. The 2013 Terra Grande is a spicy, earthy mix with intensity of fruit and a crisp finish.