Newsletter
April 19, 2021 – May 16, 2021
Rosé, Roter, Orange
We dare to say that Spring has sprung. Here are the vinous equivalents of croci, daffodils, lilacs, and asparagus. Fresh and beautiful rosés from France, a rare Roter from Austria, and a rusty-hued orange wine from Slovenia.
Houchart
2020 Côtes de Provence Rosé (Domaine Houchart)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
This has been our best-selling Provençal rosé for more than a decade. Its classic pink color leads to plenty of peach fruit and a mouth-filling, dry finish. Great with broiled salmon and spicy lentils.
A Full Tavel
2020 Tavel ‘Roc Épine’ (Domaine Lafond)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Tavel, the rosé-only appellation, is known for its big, chewy, dry wines. Domaine Lafond, an organic and biodynamic producer, makes a dense yet succulent Tavel. The 2020 has bright cherry aromas and a peppery, crisp, and dry palate. Pair with a pork roast with rosemary and garlic.
Roter not Grüner
2019 Roter Veltliner ‘Ried Berg Eisenhut’ (Soellner)
Sale Price $27.99 – $285.50 case of twelve
Weingut Soellner is a biodynamic winery in Austria’s Wagram region that has a reputation as one of Austria’s best producers of Roter Veltliner. Their 2019 Ried Berg Eisenhut is a fantastic dry white with pear and almond flavors that is both opulent and subtle at the same time. This wine was fermented and aged in stoneware vessels (Steinzeugtank) and handled minimally from vineyard to bottle. Try this rich and delicious white with shellfish and asparagus risotto.
A Slovenian Orange
2018 Goriška Brda (Krasno)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
In simple terms, an orange wine is a wine made from white grapes which are macerated on the skins until a good amount of color and phenolics are extracted. This results in an orange-hued wine with a bit more weight and tannin on the palate. Friuli in Italy and its neighbor Slovenia have long led the way in production. This month we have a lively, aromatic, dry wine from Slovenia. Krasno is a blend of Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia, and Sauvignonasse. A terrific wine to match with shrimp scampi.
Moulin Gassac
2020 Pays d’Hérault Rosé (Moulin de Gassac)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Moulin de Gassac makes delicious values in the Languedoc. Their 2020 rosé is an earthy, dry blend of Carignan and Syrah. With its light berry fruit it will match well with spicy noodles.
François Chidaine
2020 Touraine Rosé (François Chidaine)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
As usual, François Chidaine has packed about as much flavor as one can expect in his Touraine wines. The 2020 rosé is an unusual blend of Grolleau, Pinot Noir, and Gamay. It’s full on the palate and long on the finish. Try this with spicy Sichuan.
Listed prices are honored through May 14th, 2021. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 45, No. 5
Roman Red
2017 Cesanese di Olevano Romano ‘Collepazzo’ (Riccardi-Reale)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
If there is a signature red wine from Lazio and its capital, Rome, it’s Cesanese. This floral and spicy red grape is at its best in the Olevano Romano region, and Riccardi-Reale is an acclaimed producer. Their organic and biodynamic 2017 is gorgeously aromatic and deep in fruit and peppery spice. Have this with a creamy pasta with artichokes and shaved pecorino.
Montefalco
2018 Montefalco Rosso (Di Filippo)
Sale Price $15.99 – $163.10 case of twelve
We almost passed on this charming red due to its limited quantity, but it was just too good to keep to ourselves. This organic, unoaked Rosso is a blend of Sangiovese, Barbera, and Sagrantino, a grape unique to the region of Umbria. Fresh, savory, and full of ripe black plums, this versatile wine is at home with lentils and rice, but is also a worthy upgrade from your usual $10 pizza wine.
Trentino Grigio
2019 Pinot Grigio (La Vis)
Sale Price $10.99 – $112.10 case of twelve
Without even looking, we found a new delicious and affordable organic Pinot Grigio. Grown at elevation in Trentino, the La Vis is crisp, dry, and packed with crunchy orchard fruit. Great with a pork chop with apples and mustard.
Deux Bourguignons
2019 Coteaux Bourguignons ‘Les Deux Complices’ (Jean-Baptiste Duperray)
Sale Price $12.99 – $132.50 case of twelve
Coteaux Bourguignons is a recent appellation that allows producers to blend Gamay and Pinot Noir to create an affordable Burgundy. The 2019 Les Deux Complices from Duperray achieves this in a structured, earthy, dry, old-style way. This is the kind of red meant to go with a seared salmon, or with roast chicken and a platter of potatoes.
Vajra Nebbiolo
2019 Langhe Nebbiolo (G.D. Vajra)
Sale Price $21.99 – $224.30 case of twelve
2017 Barolo ‘Albe’ (G.D. Vajra)
Sale Price $41.99 – $428.30 case of twelve
The wines of G.D. Vajra will always have a place on our shelves. They are well-priced wines of nuance rather than power, and are immediately identifiable by their beautiful labels. They were the first winery in the region to become certified organic, in 1971.
The 2019 Langhe Nebbiolo is weightier and darker fruited than the Rosso we featured last month. It has a lovely finish of spice and mint, and enough textural grip to make this a fantastic deal if you want a wine to put away for a few years. For now, a decant will help soften the tannins and open up the aromas. Enjoy with a hearty mushroom risotto.
We’ve always loved Vajra’s Albe Barolo for its immediate approachability and accessible price. The 2017 is aromatically expressive and has a seductive, smooth texture. Like the Langhe Nebbiolo, lingering tannins prove that it’s built to last. At this price, we suggest buying two: one to enjoy now (after a long decant) with a finely marbled ribeye, and another to lay down for five years or so. Save a little to have with a truffle cheese for dessert.
Carmel Cab
2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Carmel Road)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
This California Cabernet is our new value leader. Its dark, fruity richness is balanced by measured oak and firm tannins. This is ideal for burgers off the grill.
Cloudline Pinot Noir
2019 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir (Cloudline)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
The Oregon wine scene got a jolt of confidence when the Burgundian producer Drouhin decided to invest there. Drouhin’s most recent label is Cloudline, a ready to drink Pinot Noir with weighted fruit and a cool, dry finish. The 2019 is full and fresh, perfect for a spring pasta with mushrooms and asparagus.
Royal Seyssel
2015 Seyssel ‘Royal’ (Lambert)
Sale Price $27.99 – $302.29 case of twelve
This terrific sparkling wine has been out of the market for years, but thanks to a New York Times article and an ardent customer, we eventually got it back in stock. Seyssel is a French village on the Rhône river, south of Geneva, Switzerland. The Royal Seyssel label was renowned during the heyday of Seyssel wines a century ago, but they sold to a company that went bankrupt and the winery was shuttered. An heir resurrected the label and now makes this delicious wine to the original specifications. The 2015 vintage Royal is a blend of Molette and Altesse, two local grape varieties. It has a delicate floral aroma and lively melon and apple fruit. This will be great with smoked fish and sushi.
Magnums of Muscadet
2017 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine ‘Clisson’ (Domaine de la Pépière)
Sale Price $39.99 per 1.5L – $203.95 case of six
We’ve been hoarding these magnums of Muscadet since last year, as we didn’t think it would be responsible to encourage gatherings. But now we suggest that you prepare a pile of shellfish, gather on the beach, and drink this fantastic 2017 Clisson.
Zenith Pinot Noir
2017 Eola-Amity Hills Pinot Noir ‘Zenith Vineyard’ (St. Innocent)
Sale Price $29.99 – $305.90 case of twelve
St. Innocent Pinot Noir is where a great producer and value collide. The 2017 Zenith Vineyard is a beautifully made expression of ripe, polished fruit with earthy dryness and a gentle framing of oak. This young Pinot Noir is a good match for seared duck breast and a fruity salsa.
Dramatic Greek White
2019 Apla (Oenops)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Though the wines from Greece’s islands demand most of the world’s attention, the northern region of Drama deserves an audience for its modern winemaking resurgence. Oenops makes this charming dry white from a blend of Malagousia, Assyrtiko, and Roditis. The floral, aromatic nose is followed by an intensely dry and zesty palate, with delicately layered flavors of white peach, grapefruit, and ginger. Fit for sushi.
Specialty Foods
Ricotta Salata di Capra $6.99 per lb.
(Regular Price $7.99)
Essex Feta $12.99 per lb.
(Regular Price $13.99)
Blue Ledge Farm Lake's Edge $25.99 per lb.
(Regular Price $26.99)
Maplebrook Farm Burrata $8.99 ea
(Regular Price $9.99)
In keeping with the season, this month we’re offering a few cheeses that are fit for spring, either due to their seasonal production or because they shine when tossed in a salad or eaten simply with fresh vegetables. Each of these cheeses evokes freshness even if they don’t quite qualify as fresh cheeses.
Brand new to us is Ricotta Salata di Capra. Like its softer cousin, Ricotta Salata is made with whey rather than curds. The whey is pressed, salted, and aged for at least 90 days; the resulting firm and salty cheese is perfect for grating or crumbling onto numerous foods. Though sheep’s milk is traditionally used, in this version the goat’s milk adds an even brighter, tangier, and more grassy character. Serve grated, crumbled, or thinly sliced on arugula salad, roasted asparagus, fresh tomatoes, prosciutto, flatbread, pizza, etc.
Our go-to for a few years now, Essex Feta is an authentic Greek feta made on the island of Lesbos and imported to the US by Essex St. Cheese. This pillowy feta melts in the mouth and, while maintaining the classic tangy and salty feta flavor, has a gentle sweetness with notes of citrus. Enjoy as a table cheese with fresh fruit, cucumber, or tomato.
Lake’s Edge is one of our favorite ash-ripened goat’s milk cheeses, produced by Blue Ledge Farm in Salisbury, Vermont. It is made with milk from their own herd of goats, and only produced from spring to late fall when the goats are naturally lactating and grazing in the pasture. The season’s first batch has just arrived, after a hiatus since December. In appearance, Lake’s Edge can be compared to the Californian classic, Humboldt Fog, but the flavor is distinct. Clean and bright with a milky sweetness, Lake’s Edge is an approachable but memorable cheese that we are thrilled to have back in stock after a long winter.
Maplebrook Farm’s Burrata is made with cow’s milk sourced from farms near their North Bennington, VT facility. Each ball of burrata consists of an outer shell of mozzarella filled with stracciatella (strands of mozzarella) mixed with cream, which oozes out when the ball is cut. Pair with tomatoes and basil for an elevated caprese, use as the centerpiece for a charcuterie plate, or just eat it straight on a baguette. Each tub contains 2- 4 oz. pieces.
Wines of the Month — April 19, 2021 through May 14, 2021
2018 Alentejano Reserva (Montaria)
Sale Price $7.99 – $86.29 case of twelve
Here’s another great value red from Portugal. The Montaria Reserva is a blend of Syrah, Trincadeira, and Aragonez that is aged for 7 months in oak. This is full and smooth with black and blueberry fruit.
2020 Côtes de Gascogne Rosé (Domaine de Millet)
Sale Price $7.99 – $86.29 case of twelve
Domaine de Millet’s 2020 rosé is a fantastic bargain. Once again it’s a 50/50 mix of Syrah and Egiodola (a spicy Basque cross).
2020 Côtes de Thau Blanc (Le Montalus)
Sale Price $6.99 – $75.49 case of twelve
Le Montalus is a 50/50 blend of Terret and Colombard. The 2020 is crisp, aromatic, and dry.
2018 Cannonau di Sardegna ‘Le Bombarde’ (Cantina Santa Maria La Palma)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
Cannonau is made from Grenache grown on the Italian island of Sardegna. The 2018 Bombarde is a deep and hearty dry red that is perfect for a lamb stew.