Newsletter

August 18, 2023 – September 18, 2023

Six Italian Whites

This month we stumbled into an Italian white wine festival. We have 6 terrific varietal white wines from six different regions. These are all un-oaked with multi-faceted aromas and flavors. All are ready for feasts of fresh fish and vegetables to round out the summer.

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Casa alle Vacche Vernaccia di San GimignanoTuscany
2022 Vernaccia di San Gimignano (Casa alle Vacche)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
The historic Vernaccia di San Gimignano has thrived for centuries. A helpful quote from Michelangelo never hurts. Casa alle Vacche’s Ciappi family makes delicious, modestly priced wines in a former stable.Their 2022 is a full-flavored, lip-smacking dry white which will pair well with calamari and clams.

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Balestri Valda Soave ClassicoVeneto
2022 Soave Classico (Balestri Valda)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
This small family property augments their wine production with bee keeping and honey making. Their 2022 Soave seems to be an underground operation with its deep, dark, volcanic mineral flavor. This intense dry Garganega is perfect for a mushroom risotto.

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Sicilia
2021 Grillo (Feudo Montoni)
Sale Price $21.99 – $224.30 case of twelve
Feudo Montoni GrilloLast year Feudo Montoni was a big hit with their Grillo, Nero d’Avola, and rosé made with Nerello Mascalese. Now the Grillo is back, and it remains an excellent dry organic Sicilian white. It has citrus aromas and an almost salty mineral flavor on the palate. The finish is lengthy and fresh. A great wine for a summer salad with tomatoes, feta, and tuna.

Le Marche
Crespaia Bianchello del Metauro2022 Bianchello del Metauro (Crespaia)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
The Crespaia winery is on a hill facing the Adriatic Sea in the northern section of Le Marche. The Bianchello grape features a lovely direct lemon flavor along with honeysuckle aromas. Have this fresh dry white with grilled fish.

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Piedmont
2022 Langhe Arneis (Voghera)
Sale Price $15.99 – $163.10 case of twelve
Voghera Langhe ArneisArneis in Piemontese dialect means ‘rascal’ indicating how difficult this grape is to grow. But the finished wine is worth the extra work. This 2022 from Voghera is full-bodied with gorgeous fennel and apple fruit plus a long, dry finish. A lovely white with pasta and a fresh tomato sauce.

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Friuli
2021 Collio Friulano (Cormòns)
Sale Price $16.99 – $173.30 case of twelve
Cormòns Collio FriulanoLet’s try to unravel the confusing naming of the Friulano grape variety. Long called Tocai Friulano in northeast Italy, Hungarian producers of Tokaji petitioned the European authorities to have its name altered. Then further studies revealed that this grape is actually Sauvignonasse, an old variety originally from (but no longer found in) Bordeaux. So now, it’s Friulano and its home base is Friuli. Cormòns makes a terrific one with fresh mint aromas and flavors of fresh hay and peaches. A fine match with grilled swordfish.

Listed prices are honored through September 18th, 2023. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 47, No. 9

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Tavel Grand Cru Rosé
2022 Tavel ‘Cuvée des Lys’ (Château de Manissy)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Château de Manissy Tavel Cuvée des LysAlong with Bandol, Tavel is the most famous rosé of France. While the price for certain Bandol rosés has risen sharply, most Tavel remains reasonable. This year our favorite Tavel comes from Château de Manissy. For more than a century the Château was run by an order of monks. Within the last 20 years the Château has been run by Florian André, who converted to organic viticulture and modernized the cellars. He still makes a ‘Tête de Cuvée’ that ages for a year in old barrels in the style the monks preferred, but the 2022 ‘Cuvée des Lys’ featured here is a darkly colored, fresh, lively Tavel. Have this beautiful rosé with a layered vegetable gratin and a mound of goat cheese.

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Le Grand St. Vincent
2022 Touraine Sauvignon ‘Le Grand St. Vincent’ (Les Vignerons des Coteaux Romanais)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
Les Vignerons des Coteaux Romanais Touraine Sauvignon Le Grand St. VincentOne of our favorite Loire Valley Sauvignon Blancs is in fine form in the 2022 vintage. Le Grand St. Vincent has a rich, ripe concentration of orchard fruits and cool minerality, and is a great choice to serve alongside roast cod and new potatoes.

Beira Interior
2021 Beira Interior Reserva ‘Quartz’ (Beyra)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Beyra Beira Interior Reserva QuartzThe Beira Interior is a mountainous region of central Portugal that borders Spain to the east. Here winemaker Rui Roboredo Madeira of Beyra has returned to his roots using the native Fonte Cal and Síria varieties. In 2021 he added Verdelho and Godello grapes to the mix, producing a richer, more aromatic white. The soils are mostly granitic with veins of quartz, giving a flinty dry finish. Give this Reserva a try with fish cakes and potato salad.

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Overlooked Irancy
2019 Irancy ‘La Grande Côte’ (Benoit Cantin)
Sale Price $39.99 – $407.90 case of twelve
Benoit Cantin Irancy La Grande CôteThe Burgundian village of Irancy is so obscure that some books about the wines of Burgundy do not mention it. Located in the north near Chablis, it is curiously only permitted to make red wine. The appellation permits inclusion of two other red grapes, César and Gamay, but Benoit Cantin only has Pinot Noir in his vineyards. In this northern outpost the vineyards need to face south for maximal sun exposure, but recent vintages have been much more solar, resulting in darker, fuller reds. Cantin’s single vineyard Grand Côte is lovely with a brilliant ruby color, scents of blood and game, along with velvet tannins. Enjoy this over the next five years.

Sale Dates
The Summer Quarterly Sale of the Year begins
Friday August 25th and runs through Monday September 4th

Details: 10% off six bottles; 20% off twelve bottles.
Wines of the Month (back page), fortified wines (Port, Sherry, Vermouth, etc.) and sparkling wines may be included for a 10% discount. Blue tagged (NET) wines and jug wines (1.5L and 3L) are excluded.

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Purple Passion
2022 Dolcetto d’Alba (Oddero)
Sale Price $17.99 –$183.50 case of twelve
Oddero Dolcetto dAlbaGrowers in Piedmont love Dolcetto. It ripens four weeks before Nebbiolo and is ready to drink the following spring. But because the Piedmontese themselves enjoy drinking Dolcetto, it is always well made and versatile. The 2022 from Oddero is a lovely example. Its purple color gives dense plummy fruit plus firm gripping tannins. A go-to wine for a meal of fresh pasta with mushrooms or roast chicken.

All Alberdi
2018 Rioja Reserva ‘Viña Alberdi’ (La Rioja Alta)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
La Rioja Alta Rioja Reserva Viña AlberdiThe 2018 vintage didn’t go as planned at La Rioja Alta. Early on it was determined that the vineyards that contributed to their upper level Reserva Ardanza and their Gran Reservas 890 and 904 would not be produced in 2018. Instead the winery made the bold move to bottle all their wine as Reserva Viña Alberdi. The result is one of their best Alberdis. It is super smooth with rich, dark fruit and refined tannins. A delight with grilled lamb chops.

Specialty Foods

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Adair — $32 per pound
Jacobs and Brichford – Connersville, Indiana

Jacobs and Brichford Adair cheese from Connersville, IndianaJacobs and Brichford has long been one of our favorite farmstead cheese producers and they have impressed us again with their newest offering, Adair. This soft-ripened cheese, made from 100% grass-fed raw milk, is reminiscent of the French classic Reblochon. It has a soft-textured, sweet finish, and a grassy aroma that evokes, for me, fond memories of the late midwestern summer.

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Briana — $28 per pound
Jacobs and Brichford – Connersville, Indiana

Briana draws inspiration from the cheeses of the Italian Alps, most notably Fontina Valle d’Aosta. This semi-firm cheese has a delicate and nuanced flavor at room temperature and explodes with rich, nutty aromas when gently melted over toast or roasted vegetables. Aged only 3 months, Briana allows the wonderful freshness of Jacobs and Brichford’s grass-fed milk to remain front and center.

Humble Cider Tomme — $28 per pound
Parish Hill Creamery – Putney, Vermont

The Humble Cider Tomme is a perfect example of Parish Hill’s commitment to traditional cheese-making methods and to the highest degree of quality and craftsmanship. It is supple on the palate, with notes of green apple and sourdough that are accentuated by the unmistakably savory flavor of the raw milk. A perfect cheese to welcome the autumn season along with a knife-cut salami and tear of rustic bread.

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West West Blue — $32 per pound
Parish Hill Creamery – Putney, Vermont

Parish Hill Creamery, Putney, VermontThis natural rind, blue mold cheese has satisfying musty and spicy aromas that cradle and comfort as though it were a warm cabin in a squall. It is creamy and full-bodied with a slightly tart finish that lifts the flavor and leaves you ready for more. With a drizzle of wildflower honey it is the perfect accompaniment to a selection of dried fruits and nuts, bold wine, and the sunset.


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Wines of the Month — August 18, 2023 through September 18, 2023

Tilia Malbec Syrah

2022 Malbec Syrah (Tilia)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89
case of twelve
This delightfully fruity Argentine blend has plummy fruit, soft tannins, and a spicy finish. Great with stuff off the grill.

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Château de la Selve Coteaux de lArdèche Petite Selve

2020 Coteaux de l’Ardèche ‘Petite Selve’ (Château de la Selve)
Sale Price $11.99 – $129.49 case of twelve
Petite Selve is a Rhône-like red blend from the Ardèche region of central France. This organic red is perfect for a big bowl of green beans with lots of garlic and charcuterie.

Cave du Vendômois Coteaux du Vendômois Blanc Le Cocagne2022 Coteaux du Vendômois Blanc ‘Le Cocagne’ (Cave du Vendômois)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
This Loire Valley white is a bone-dry Chenin Blanc with crisp minerally flavors. Perfect for fish, shellfish, and salads.

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Ciacci Piccolomini dAragona Toscana Rosso

2021 Toscana Rosso (Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona)
Sale Price $11.99 – $129.49 case of twelve
Ciacci’s entry level Tuscan Rosso is mostly Sangiovese with a little Syrah, Merlot, and Cabernet. Excellent with pasta and fresh tomato sauce.

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