Newsletter

April 18, 2022 – May 14, 2022

Spring Pairings

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Cheverny and Muscadet
It’s no secret that we love our Loire Valley whites. Their bracing and crisp flavors are what we crave coming out of winter. For many reasons, notably climate-related damaged harvests, we are seeing less availability and higher prices. So when we find new wines we like at pre-pandemic prices, we can’t resist buying as much as possible. The following two come from families that have been making wines for five generations.
2019 Cheverny Blanc (Domaine Sauger)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Fattoria Le Pupille Morellino di ScansanoLocated between Tours and Orléans, the Cheverny appellation is best known for its Sauvignon Blanc dominant blends. In the case of the Sauger, the grape constitutes 80% of the blend with Chardonnay rounding out the rest. The result is a creamy, textured white fragrant with lemons and gooseberries. It has a touch of flint and a lovely finish of citrus pith, with enough body to hold up to weisswurst and sauerkraut.

Andrea Felici Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore2020 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine
‘Les Princes’ (Domaine Ménard-Gaborit)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
To the far west of Cheverny, where the Loire River meets the Atlantic Ocean, lies the appellation of Muscadet Sèvre et Maine. Here the Menard family grows organic Melon de Bourgogne, the grape behind everyone’s favorite oyster wine. This Muscadet smells of apples and wet stone. Its lime and salt flavors make it a natural match with fish tacos, though it’s also a great choice for steamed mussels.

Crete and Achaia
The beauty of the many wine regions of Greece is their multitude of native grape varieties. Last fall, we came across two delicious, organic reds that showcase their unique regions. One’s versatility makes it fitting for all seasons and foods, while the other’s lightness is perfect for this time of year.
2018 Crete PGI ‘Melissokipos’ (Domaine Paterianakis)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Luigi Maffini Cilento Aglianico KleosThis blend of equal parts Kotsifali and Mandilari comes from the Paterianakis family in Melesses, a village south of Crete’s capital city Heraklion. Scents of cinnamon, tomato leaf, and cedar frame this medium-bodied, savory red. We don’t have any other red that tastes quite like this one and we’re proud to offer it at an inviting price. As one of our house reds, we’ve found it complements all kinds of fare, from vegetarian meze and dishes with red sauces to roast chicken and lamb chops.

Agnanum Falanghina Campania2020 Achaia PGI ‘Amphora Daphne Noir’ (Koukos)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Native to the area surrounding Patras, Greece’s third largest city in the northern Peloponnese, the grape Mavrodaphne has historically been vinified sweet. However, the Koukos family chose to create a dry, amphora-aged version. The result is a delightful light red that bursts with aromas and flavors of macerated strawberries and savory herbs. Once you taste the wine, you’ll see why we delayed offering it until now as it tastes like a beautiful spring day. Enjoy with seared scallops or head-on shrimp, and finish with the sheep cheese in the Specialty Foods section.

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Rhône South, Rhône North
Grenache is the key component in the Southern Rhône, while recent great vintages in the Northern Rhône have propelled Syrah to new heights.
2018 Côtes du Rhône ‘Cuvée Romaine’ (Domaine La Garrigue)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Susanna Grassi-I Fabbri Chianti Classico LamoleDomaine La Garrigue has long been one of our best sellers, though the price has slowly crept up and recently went over $20. Fortunately, the price corrected and we can now offer this full-bodied, gutsy 2018 for $17.99. This is a classic Southern Rhône red with aromas and flavors of plums, herbs, and olives. Not a bad choice with a grilled leg of lamb.

 
2018 Syrah ‘Les Hauts du Monteillet’ (Stéphane Montez)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
Oddero Barbera dAlba SuperioreThe Montez family estate sits on a lofty bend above the Rhône River. Winemakers since the 17th century, today their legacy is in their renowned bottles of Condrieu and Côte-Rôtie. More appealing for immediate drinking is their pure Syrah ‘Les Hauts du Monteillet.’ After a few highly recommended hours of aeration, the 2018 has an intense mouthful of ripe blackberry fruit, lavender, mint and granite. This brawny red will be a fine match with a braised pork shoulder.

Listed prices are honored through May 14th, 2022. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 46, No. 5

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Semillón Chenin
2021 Semillón-Chenin ‘White Clay’ (Catena)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Val di Suga Rosso di MontalcinoMalbec clearly dominates the Argentine wine market, so we were pleasantly surprised by this new white blend from Catena. We were even more surprised to find out that it wasn’t new at all. Catena describes their Semillón-Chenin as Argentina’s century-old traditional white wine. The 2021 has a delightful peach aroma and a crisp, minerally finish. Have this with a platter of asparagus.

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Montinore
2018 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir (Montinore Estate)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Le Piane Vino Rosso MaggiorinaThis long-time favorite Oregon Pinot Noir has returned with a ripe, full 2018. The Montinore Estate ‘Red Cap’ starts with ripe berry fruit, and leads to earth and loam flavors and a dry, structured finish. Just right for a seared duck breast and wild rice.

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Superb Aged Vouvray
1964 Vouvray Demi Sec (François et Julien Pinon)
Sale Price $199.99 NET
Le Piane Vino Rosso MaggiorinaOf Pinon, Jacqueline Friedrich writes in her book The Wines of France: “Flavorful organic Vouvrays with a pure sense of place, handcrafted by an intelligent vintner.” The place is the Vallée de Cousse in the northern part of the Vouvray appellation. The vintner she’s referring to is François Pinon, a well-respected gentleman farmer who died last year. He is succeeded by his son Julien, and this wine was made by his grandfather Claude. This exquisite rarity was stored at the estate until late last year, when each bottle was inspected, cleaned, and recorked by Julien. They are in as good a condition as one can expect for a 58-year-old wine. The bottle we opened was amazing from the start. The nose had that intriguing scent of wet wool of old Chenin Blanc, but the palate was pure silk. Flavors deliriously toggled between fruit, herbs, chalk, and minerals. What did we serve it with? Chinese food, of course. We only have a few bottles, so one bottle per customer, please.

Fine Aged Cabernet Franc
2008 Chinon ‘Les Picasses’ (Olga Raffault)
Sale Price $49.99 – 509.90 case of twelve
Von Hövel Riesling KabinettThe folks at Olga Raffault never release their top-of-the-line single vineyard ‘Les Picasses’ until it’s at least 5 or 6 years old. The wine comes to the market drinkable but not yet at its best. Occasionally they release some older wines and then you can really see the difference that a few more years can make for this remarkable wine. The 2008 is gorgeously aromatic, and the palate remains fresh, incredibly smooth, and buttressed by invisible tannins. The finish has incredible length. There’s a lot to discover in this mature, beautiful red. We suggest serving simply with some paté and cheese.

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Barolo Oddero
2017 Barolo (Oddero)
Sale Price $44.99 – $458.90 case of twelve
Monte dallOra Vino Nato DisobbedienteThis Barolo from Oddero is a wonderful early drinker, but will certainly age and improve for a decade. The 2017 vintage in Piedmont was a warm one, and the Nebbiolos have more fruit than usual with buried (but substantial) tannins. It opens with the classic Barolo aromas of tar and roses, but then the berry fruit and herbs roll in. It closes with cherry fruit and fine-grained tannins. Great with pappardelle and wild mushrooms.

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Royal Seyssel
2015 Seyssel ‘Royal’ (Lambert)
Sale Price $27.99 – $302.29 case of twelve
Monte dallOra Vino Nato DisobbedienteThe Royal Seyssel is back and it’s the same great 2015 vintage as before. Seyssel is a French village along the Rhône river south of Geneva, Switzerland. The Lambert family was an originator in the heyday that was Seyssel a hundred years ago. They sold to a company that went bankrupt, and then an heir resurrected the label and once again makes this delicious sparkling wine to the original specifications. The 2015 vintage ‘Royal’ is a blend of Molette and Altesse, two local grape varieties. This has a crisp, delicate floral aroma and lively melon and apple fruit. This will be great with smoked fish and sushi.


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Carrel
2021 Savoie Rosé (Domaine Eugène Carrel)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Nielson Pinot NoirThe Savoie continues to be a source of immensely refreshing and affordable wines of all colors. Eugène Carrel’s 2021 rosé is a blend of 80% Gamay and 20% Mondeuse. It’s packed with bright strawberry rhubarb fruit, and has an easy, dry finish. Have with a creamy chèvre (check the Specialty Foods section for our recommended cheese pairing) or with a springtime sugar snap salad with goat cheese and mint.

Our Dear Liter
2021 Navarra Rosé (Azul y Garanza)
Sale Price $14.99 per Liter – $152.90 of twelve
Montepulciano dAbruzzo La Botte dellAbateIt’s our goal to have a Liter-sized bottle in every newsletter. This month it’s a flavorful, organic Navarra rosé from Azul y Garanza. This beautiful jamón-colored wine has a palate-soaking dry finish, making it a fine match for an artichoke and rice paella. Or, try it with a plate of Jamón Serrano and some Manchego from our deli.


Specialty Foods

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Spring in our Step
Our favorite sign of spring is the return of fresh, seasonal goat and sheep’s milk cheeses. Unlike cows, goat and sheep herds give birth around the same time in winter and early spring. Responsible farmers let them rest from milking over the winter, and save the


earliest, highest quality milk for the kids and lambs.When they have enough excess, they can begin producing cheeses again, and fresh cheeses (which only require short aging) can be relesed soon after. Just in time for peak spring and the beginning of a bountiful food season.

With warmer days ahead, we’ve paired each of the cheeses with a wine from the newsletter which we think will make for a delightful and simple apéritif. Serve both cheeses with a crisp, neutral cracker (we recommend La Panzanella Original Crostini, $4.99, or Onesto Gluten Free Sea Salt Crackers, $7.99), or on a fresh, crusty Iggy’s baguette.

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Blue Ledge Farm Lake’s Edge
($31.99 per lb)

* pair with Eugène Carrel Rosé de Savoie
Lakes EdgeBlue Ledge Farm in Leicester, VT is deservedly proud of the health of their herd and the quality of the milk, which is highlighted here in their flagship cheese. This bright and tangy ash-ripened goat’s milk cheese is visually stunning and a textural delight: the chalky, crumbly core breaks down to a gooey edge, and a thin vein of vegetable ash bisects the center and coats the rind. The flavors are clean, creamy, and delicate, with just a touch of goat’s milk tang, though the mushroomy rind provides a little earthiness and bite. The fresh strawberry rhubarb flavors of the Eugène Carrel rosé complement the cheese nicely, and the brisk acidity washes away each rich and creamy bite.

Bellwether Farms Sheep Cheese with Strawberry Preserves ($5.99 per 3 oz piece)
* pair with Koukos Amphora Daphne Noir
Lakes EdgeThis Sonoma County creamery got the memo that fruit preserves are a fantastic pairing for a creamy, fresh cheese. Their herds have access to pasture all year, and produce a rich milk with a bright, clean flavor that shines in a simple, fresh cheese. While texturally like a fresh chèvre, a fresh sheep’s milk cheese is slightly richer and lacks the earthy goat’s milk flavor. We were drawn to this version, with a touch of sweet strawberry preserves mixed in. For the wine pairing, we found that the charming and delicate strawberry flavors of the Koukos Daphne Noir are enhanced by the complementary flavors in the cheese. Consider drizzling with balsamic reduction to deepen the flavors with an earthy and tangy component.


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Wines of the Month — April 18, 2022 through May 14, 2022

Gorgo Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie

2019 La Mancha Tempranillo (Campos Reales)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
Campos Reales has crafted a deliciously dry Tempranillo from La Mancha. The raspberry fruit and earthy tannins make this perfect for a lamb and bean stew.

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Ken Forrester Chenin Blanc Petit2020 Bordeaux Blanc (Château Haut-Rian)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
The 2020 Château Haut-Rian is a fresh and crisp blend of Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Try this white Bordeaux with fresh asparagus.

Chateau Bel Air Bordeaux Rouge2019 Savoie Rouge (Viallet)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
Maison Viallet has once again produced an excellent value Savoie. This time it’s the red blend of Gamay and Mondeuse. This fruity, peppery blend is just right for a roast chicken along with sautéed mushrooms.

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Domaine André Brunel Vin de Pays de Vaucluse

2021 Vin de France Rosé (Le Poussin Rose)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
Le Poussin Rose is our most popular rosé. This delicate, dry wine is an ideal match with a seafood stew or scampi.

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