Newsletter
February 18, 2022 – March 17, 2022
Justin Bourgogne
2020 Bourgogne Rouge (Justin Girardin)
Sale Price $21.99 – $224.30 case of twelve
Justin Girardin’s Bourgogne Rouge has become our best-selling French Pinot Noir. The 2019 was superb and the 2020 may turn out to be even better, while the price for this honest Burgundy remains reasonable. Starting with its rose petal color followed by lovely aromas of strawberry and raspberry, it finishes with spicy tannins and an earthy dryness. This is a classic wine for a dark, winey stew.
Pierre Juliénas
2019 Juliénas ‘Les Capitans’ (Pierre Dupond)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Of all the ten Crus of Beaujolais, it has been said that Juliénas has the highest overall quality. Unfortunately, it being one of the smaller crus, we often lack one in our selection. This month we rectify this with Pierre Dupond’s 2019 Les Capitans, from a single stony parcel of Gamay. This is no flash-fermented fruity Beaujolais. It was partially de-stemmed and given a long maceration, extracting deep, dark flavors of black pepper and licorice. Have this superb old school cru with a roast chicken and a side of braised escarole.
S-G-M
2020 Costières de Nîmes Rouge (Château L’Ermite d’Auzan)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Between the Rhône River and the old Roman city of Nîmes lies the underrated appellation of Costières de Nîmes. This district can make equally good whites, reds, and rosés which are wonderful and affordable. This month we have a rich red blend from L’Ermite d’Auzan, which leads with 40% Syrah rounded out by equal parts Grenache and Mourvèdre. Have this bold, sunny red with a steaming dish of cassoulet.
Jean-Marc Chablis
2020 Chablis ‘Sainte Claire’ (Jean-Marc Brocard)
Sale Price $21.99 – $224.30 case of twelve
The Brocard family is a big producer of Chablis, but their wines are true to form and are some of the best values from this famous region. The Sainte Claire vineyard is a field of Kimmeridgian limestone, which gives this wine its crystal clear minerality. The 2020 is a lively, crisp, classic French Chardonnay. A fabulous match with scallops and cod.
The Big Melt
2020 Abymes (Domaine Labbé)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
Check out our cheese department this month for its fondue recommendation. Of course, we have a fine white to get you started. The 2020 Abymes from Labbé is as refreshing as melting snow outside an alpine chalet. The Jacquère grape is pleasingly light in body, but persistently long in flavor. It would also be fine with a simple pan-fried trout showered with parsley.
Sec by Sud-Ouest
2020 Jurançon Sec (Domaine Bordenave)
Sale Price $15.99 – $163.10 case of twelve
Tucked in the foothills of the French Pyrenees, the Jurançon wine region has been famous for its sweet white wines since the 14th century. In the last century, however, the appetite for dry white wines increased and so wines such as this one from Domaine Bordenave were created and denoted by ‘Sec’ in the appellation name. One of the most striking characteristics of this Gros Manseng-dominant blend of indigenous grapes is its lush golden color, brought on from brief skin contact. This is an unoaked, spicy white that benefits from warming up in the glass, allowing it to reveal aromas of apple pie, apricot, and orange peel. Brisk acidity keeps its honey and caramel notes from tasting sweet and its textured body from feeling heavy. This is a charmingly unique wine from a region underrepresented in our market. And it’s just as lovely with shrimp dishes as it is with a chicken poblano soup.
Listed prices are honored through March 17th, 2022. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 46, No. 3
Brunello di Montalcino is now one of the most renowned and expensive wines in Italy. Luckily, most producers also make an earlier-released Rosso so you can give the expensive model a test run. Val di Suga owns some of the best vineyards in Montalcino yet produces a Rosso that is much less expensive than their Brunello. The 2019 is a lovely spin around Montalcino, with sandalwood aromas, cherry fruit, and gripping tannins. Allow this to open up for an hour and you’ll have a deep, aromatic red that is perfect for a rib eye steak.
Le Piane is an estate in Northern Piedmont that is resurrecting the vineyards of Boca, a long-established outpost for Nebbiolo. Their Maggiorina bottling is named for a trellising system that dates to the Romans. In this system, 3 vines are developed upwards to create a goblet for even ripening. Nebbiolo is the predominant grape, but Vespolina has always provided a spark of character to the wines of the region. The 2020 is a fresh red with berry fruit, lively crispness, and a real finish. This medium weight red is perfect for a grilled salmon along with lentils and spinach.
The Saar is one of the coolest and windiest regions in Germany, conditions which allow this tributary of the Mosel to consistently produce delicate and elegant Riesling. Von Hövel, an organic family-run estate now in the hands of the 7th generation, offers this classic Riesling Kabinett with precise and vivid aromas of lime, green apple, wet rocks, and petrol. The modest sweetness enhances the body and expressiveness of the fruit, but is washed away by a rush of racy acidity, which provides crunchy structure and leads to a crisp, saline finish. A fine match for spicy Thai curry dishes. 
Monte dall’Ora is a biodynamic Valpolicella and Amarone producer who also makes this gulpable, outside the lines red in a liter bottle. The story goes that they first made this wine for home consumption from the lesser grapes of their estate. Then they had an abundant harvest so started selling it locally, and from there it blossomed. The current edition, a blend of Corvinone and Molinara, has pine-scented fruit and is like a berry-gathering trip in a forest. It should be slightly chilled for maximum appreciation. 
The Whole Shebang! ‘Fourteenth Cuvée’ (Bedrock Wine Co.)
2020 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (La Botte dell’Abate)
2020 Vino Rosso (Tintero)
2020 Rioja Tempranillo (Milenrama)
The Colli Tortonesi is located in easternmost Piedmont near the border with Lombardy. Here the Cortese grape makes a crisp, rounded dry white. The 2020 La Colombera will be excellent with a scampi or a risotto with shellfish.
Brunel’s wines range from this humble yet delicious country red all the way up to Châteauneuf-du-Pape. They all have the Grenache grape in common, and this 2019 has generous red fruit and a cool, herbal finish. Terrific with a hearty gumbo.