Newsletter
February 15, 2021 – March 17, 2021
Brighter Reds Ahead
Reach deep into the pantry, find all those good things you canned last fall, and serve alongside these bright and lively reds. Of course, we love a good French Gamay (x3). And from Spain, both a pure Tempranillo from Rioja and a feel-good story from Castilla y León in a forgotten grape, the Prieto Picudo. Plus, the always beautiful Rosso from Dora Forsoni in Montepulciano.
Jean-Marc
2019 Beaujolais-Villages ‘Les Vignes de Lantignié’ (Jean-Marc Burgaud)
Sale Price $15.99 – $163.10 case of twelve
Jean-Marc Burgaud’s entry level Beaujolais-Villages is a sturdy, richly fruited red that is always ready for a roast chicken and greens. The 2019 is polished and plummy with a long, ripe finish.
Jean-Paul
2019 Beaujolais ‘L’Ancien’ (Jean-Paul Brun)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
It took guts to do what Jean-Paul Brun has done. Located in the lower third of the Beaujolais region, where there isn’t even a village allowed to be called Beaujolais-Villages, he forged ahead making “basic” Beaujolais by the Burgundian method with fruit from his oldest vines. This means he crushes his grapes before fermentation, rather than keeping the whole berries intact to allow fermentation to begin in the interior of the grape. This is more laborious, but results in a more structured wine with depth and an earthy minerality. The 2019 is a dream vintage for this wine. It’s very quiet on the nose, with gentle yet lovely aromas. The palate is all berries and herbs, followed by a great finish of minerals and cool tannins.
Sérol
2019 Côte Roannaise ‘Eclat de Granite’ (Domaine Sérol)
Sale Price $15.99 – $163.10 case of twelve
The small appellation of Côte Roannaise is technically in the Loire Valley, but is closer to Beaujolais than it is to Sancerre. The granite vineyards at Sérol yield a densely fruity yet structured version of Gamay. The 2019 achieves a beautiful balance of fruit and earth. Great with a cheese and potato gratin.
Tempranillo
2019 Rioja (Bodegas D. Mateos)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
La Mateo is a very enjoyable example of a fresh and lively Rioja Tempranillo. Culled from a forty-year-old vineyard, the 2019 is packed with ripe blackberry fruit and supple tannins. Have this with braised lamb or a dish of beans and mushrooms.
Prieto Picudo
2018 Castilla y León (Mary Taylor/Pedro González Mittelbrunn)
Sale Price $9.99 – $101.90 case of twelve
It’s been almost two decades since we last had a wine made from the grape Prieto Picudo; it is that rare in our market. We’re pleased that its return comes from Mary Taylor, who imports wine from small-scale producers making wines that speak specifically of their region. She has partnered with Pedro Mittelbrunn, a man on a mission to introduce the indigenous grapes of Spain’s León region to the world. Accordingly, he is currently the only producer of certified organic Prieto Picudo. This one is unoaked, berry-laden and wonderfully aromatic. Its dry, spicy finish matches up with a lamb vindaloo and its freshness easily complements a hearty chickpea stew.
Montepulciano
2018 Rosso di Montepulciano (Poderi Sanguineto I e II)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
As far as Tuscan reds go, this is always a great value. In the denominazione of Montepulciano the particular clone of Sangiovese is called Prugnolo Gentile, for its plum-shaped clusters. At Sanguineto it is blended with Canaiolo and Mammolo to make a lively red that is so perfectly balanced that you could serve it with either a fish soup or a roast boar.
Listed prices are honored through March 17th, 2021. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 45, No. 3
Vernaccia of Tuscany
2019 Vernaccia di San Gimignano (Tenuta Le Calcinaie)
Sale Price $15.99 – $163.10 case of twelve
Vernaccia di San Gimignano is a white wine that makes an impression. It is packed with lip-stinging flavors of herbs and nuts with juicy acidity. Among several good examples on our shelf, the 2019 Le Calcinaie stands out as a great value. It’s organically grown, with a fresh, lively, herbal nose and good weighted fruit on the palate. It finishes with a rush of bitter almonds. Have this terrific Tuscan with a seared swordfish along with some nutty farro and spicy arugula.
Cairanne Blanc
2019 Cairanne ‘L’Estévenas’ (Domaine Alary)
Sale Price $21.99 – $224.30 case of twelve
When our salesperson dropped off a sample bottle, we left it on the desk thinking we already had some on the shelf, under the mistaken assumption that Alary only made red wine. When we realized it was white and got around to chilling and tasting it, we were more than intrigued. While there is not a ‘typical’ white Rhône wine, this one is superbly full-bodied yet crisp. A blend of Clairette and Roussanne, it carries a full palate of tropical fruit, peach, and melon along with a long, lingering finish. Give this a try with a big bowl of Pho with herbs and lemongrass.
Roi de Romo
2018 Cour-Cheverny (François Cazin/Le Petit Chambord)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
In our opinion François Cazin is the Roi de Romorantin. His Cour-Cheverny, whether dry or sweet, are always a delight. In the 2018 vintage his dry cuvée is a scorcher with bold fruit flavors, great inner mouth presence, and a penetratingly rich and smooth finish. This has enough weight to go with a roasted pork dish stuffed with dried fruit.
La Centenaire Chasselas
2019 Pouilly-sur-Loire ‘La Centenaire’ (Serge Dagueneau & Filles)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
When your wine gets name-checked in the hefty (1242 page) book Wine Grapes by Robinson, Harding, and Vouillamoz, you are in very select company. The Pouilly-sur-Loire made by the Dagueneau family is hailed as a wine of exceptional quality, grown in a sea of Sauvignon Blanc within the Pouilly-Fumé appellation. It certainly helps that the vineyard it comes from is lovingly tended and is more than 110 years old. The grape variety in Pouilly-sur-Loire is Chasselas, loved in Switzerland and ignored practically everywhere else except at the Dagueneaus'. The 2019 vintage is amongst the best we have tasted. It is peachy and floral, minerally and dry; it has weight but is not heavy. We suggest a fine dinner of roasted haddock to go along with this delicious bottle of wine history.
Gigondas
2017 Gigondas (Domaine du Cayron)
Sale Price $29.99 – $305.90 case of twelve
The Faraud family has for over 150 years made this wine only. Their Gigondas is admirably rich and rustic, with plenty of earthy and gamy flavors, and the 2017 is no exception. This is a big and brawny red that requires a roast spit of lamb along with some slow-cooked white beans and a ton of garlic and rosemary.
Dei Nobile
2017 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (Dei)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
Between the 2016 vintage (which we loved) and the 2017 vintage (which we also love) a strange thing happened: the price went down. The Massachusetts wholesaler now imports this wine directly, so we are happy to be able to deliver this delicious Tuscan red at a lower price. The 2017 is a superb vintage for this Vino Nobile. It’s a gutsy yet refined red with a touch of oak, a good palate soak of cherry fruit and cedar, plus a long, plush finish. Great for a Porterhouse-style Tuscan beef steak.
Two Tall Bottles of Dry Wine
Mosel Trocken
2018 Riesling Trocken (Clemens Busch)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
While there are plenty of wonderful off-dry Rieslings from the Mosel, Clemens Busch chooses to make dry Riesling on a variety of slate soils. The 2018 Trocken comes from a biodynamic vineyard of grey slate, and is full of crisp, earthy energy. This has crunchy orchard fruits and that fascinating hint of petrol that only dry Riesling can execute. This is a wine that can easily handle spicy cuisine but is also totally cool with shellfish. 
Pfalz Noir
2018 Pinot Noir (Koehler-Ruprecht)
Sale Price $21.99 – $224.30 case of twelve
Admittedly, Pinot Noir in a tall bottle looks a bit strange, but this one is an absolute winner. The 2017, which we gleefully promoted, placed #85 in the Wine Spectator Top 100. The 2018 is a bit darker and fuller but still weighs in at a reasonable 12.5% alcohol. We adore its cherry fruit and its earthy, dry flavors from the sand and limestone soil. A fine red for grilled salmon.
Specialty Foods
Rare Birds
Wrångebäck (Almnäs Bruk)
$29.99 per lb (Regular Price $30.99)
Rogue River Blue (Rogue Creamery)
$48.99 per lb (Regular Price $49.99)
Duck Breast Prosciutto (Smoking Goose)
$19.99 per quarter lb (Regular Price $24.99)
Lamb Prosciutto (Brooklyn Cured)
$14.99 per quarter lb (Regular Price $15.99)
In a store filled with specialty and hard-to-find gastronomic delights, it can be tough to spot those items that truly stand apart from the flock. This month we celebrate some of those rare birds of the Wine Cask, which push the boundaries of our expectations and make us think twice about flavor and provenance.
Sweden’s contributions to the world of cheese can seem obscure, especially compared to the titans of European cheese, but Wrångebäck (Sweden’s oldest cheese) has earned its place beside Gruyère, Comte, and all the other great mountain cheeses. This bold, nutty, and brothy alpine-style cheese is made with raw cow’s milk by Almnäs Bruk. The farm and monastery has roots dating back to 1225, and boasts a consistent cheesemaking tradition since the 1830s.
Rogue River Blue from Rogue Creamery in Oregon is perhaps the most internationally acclaimed American Original to sweep the cheese world in the last several years. Winner of the World Cheese Awards Gold Medal in 2019, this seasonally produced blue cheese has it all. Made with organic, pasteurized cow’s milk, the creamy texture mingles with a big blue-mold flavor, and is cut with a well-balanced tartness from the pear liqueur-soaked grape leaves that encompass the wheel. This cheese is entirely unparalleled.
For the first time in recent memory, this month we are featuring two new and delectable charcuterie items. The Duck Breast Prosciutto from Smoking Goose Meatery (hailing from the crossroads of America, Indiana!) is both rich and savory, with a mild gaminess that is quintessentially duck. Don’t let the price tag intimidate you; 30 thumb-sized slices weighs in at about seven dollars worth. Brooklyn Cured’s fine dining pedigree really shows in their Lamb Prosciutto. The tangy, cured, robust flavor with a hint of smoky paprika is the perfect complement to the tender texture of the lamb. Both are certain to stand out on your next charcuterie board.
Wines of the Month — February 15, 2021 through March 17, 2021
2020 Pinot Grigio (Gorgo)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
The Gorgo Pinot Grigio, made from organically grown grapes, is back in stock and it’s as fresh and lively as ever. Try the 2020 vintage with an asparagus risotto or a simple fish dish.
2018 Pays d’Oc Pinot Noir (Moulin de Gassac)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
The 2018 Moulin de Gassac Pinot Noir is grown right along the Mediterranean and yields fresh fruit and an earthy dryness. Have this with a chicken tagine with couscous.
2019 Shiraz Viognier (Yalumba)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
In the style of the Northern Rhône, Yalumba adds a dash of
the aromatic white grape Viognier to lift the flavors of their full-bodied Shiraz. Give this rich, plummy red a try with a spicy stir fry.
2017 Primitivo ‘Nèprica’ (Tormaresca)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
Rich and fruity yet spicy and dry, this Primitivo from Apulia is poised for hearty stews and spicy greens.