Newsletter

July 19, 2021 – August 18, 2021

Loire, Mâcon, and the Rhine: Serious Summer Whites

With farmers markets in full swing and bluefish and striped bass running along the shore, there’s plenty of fresh and delicious food available in summer in New England. Finally, our catch of European whites has landed to go with the bounty. Check inside for two fascinating new Greek whites as well.

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Vinnie is Finally Back
2020 Touraine ‘Le Grand St. Vincent’ (Les Vignerons des Coteaux Romanais)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Les Vignerons des Coteaux Romanais Touraine Le Grand St. VincentWe apologize for the delay in the annual arrival of one of our best value Sauvignon Blancs, but Le Grand St. Vincent from the Touraine is finally back. The 2020 is a very solid vintage from the cave-coopérative in St. Romain sur Cher in the heart of the Loire Valley. It’s aromatic, crisp, and dry. Perfect for a cool summer salad.

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Whole Lotta Alphonse
2020 Sancerre ‘La Moussière’ (Alphonse Mellot)
Sale Price $29.99 – $305.90 case of twelve
Alphonse Mellot Sancerre La MoussièreThis 2020 Sauvignon Blanc is produced by the 18th and 19th consecutive Alphonse Mellots at their property in Sancerre. They describe La Moussière as being the cornerstone of the property, and it is the limestone in their vineyard that provides the base. The viticulture is organic and biodynamic, while vinification is half in stainless steel and half in cask. The result is a Sancerre with a ripe, round body and a pleasing creaminess on the palate. Have this wine with a simple steamed lobster and grilled corn.

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Burgaud Beaujolais Blanc
2019 Beaujolais Villages Blanc (Jean-Marc Burgaud)
Sale Price $15.99 – $163.10 case of twelve
Jean-Marc Burgaud Beaujolais Villages BlancFor many years Jean-Marc Burgaud was a one-grape guy. His Gamay-based Beaujolais Rouges are always superb and affordable. But back in 2011 he must have become tired of going to the corner Wine Cask when he wanted a bottle of white wine, so he planted some Chardonnay. Today those vines are producing a zesty, dry, minerally white that is perfect for a sautéed sole with snap peas and new potatoes.

Pouilly Solutré
2020 Mâcon Solutré Pouilly (Domaine de la Chapelle)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
Domaine de la Chapelle Mâcon Solutré PouillyWhile Domaine de la Chapelle makes several terrific Pouilly-Fuissés, this is our favorite wine from them. Year after year, their tiny parcel of Mâcon Solutré Pouilly delivers a deep, minerally, full-bodied Chardonnay that rivals their more expensive cuvées. While it sees no new oak, the 2020 is buttery and rich with golden pear fruit and a long, lush finish. Give this a go with grilled striped bass and a fruity salsa.

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Silvaner
2019 Silvaner ‘Old Vines’ (Dr. Heyden)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Dr Heyden Silvaner Old VinesThere are just a few places where Silvaner really shines. In Germany’s Franconia region it is planted in Würzburg’s best vineyards. It’s also at home in France’s Alsace region (most notably at Domaine Weinbach) and in Italy’s Alto Adige (particularly in the Valle Isarco). But the absolute best value in Silvaner comes from Dr. Heyden in Germany’s Rheinhessen. Here it achieves good weight along with crisp, persistent apricot flavors and a fine streak of herbs and minerals. Great with a fish chowder showered with fresh herbs.

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Vom Kalk
2019 Riesling Kabinett Trocken ‘Vom Kalk’ (Schneider)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
Schneider Riesling Kabinett Trocken Vom Kalk One reason Riesling is such a magnificent grape is that it excels in many different soils. It does prefer a cooler climate, but whether it is growing in limestone or in various types of slate it produces wines of terroir and distinction. Right now, we have the terrific 2019 Vom Kalk from Georg Albrecht Schneider in the Rheinhessen. This is a polished jewel of pristine apple fruit plus a cool underwater stream of minerality. Have this with crab cakes and a spicy curry aioli.

Listed prices are honored through August 18th, 2021. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 45, No. 8

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Rosé Recap
Rumors of a rosé shortage are probably false, but we’re stocking up anyway. Here are three new rosés and a notice that the Houchart Côtes de Provence has been restocked.

Carrel Savoie RoséJongieux
2020 Savoie Rosé (Carrel)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
The wines of Savoie are earning newfound respect. Carrel is the producer behind last month’s Jacquère, and now this month’s refreshing, strawberry-scented Gamay rosé. Perfect for a filet of poached salmon on a bed of peppery greens.

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Varois
Routas Coteaux Varois en Provence2020 Coteaux Varois en Provence (Routas)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Routas’ Coteaux Varois is a delicate, pale, and dry Provençal rosé. Try this with a salade niçoise followed by fresh goat cheese.

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Domaine Houchart Côtes de ProvencePure Provence
2020 Côtes de Provence (Domaine Houchart)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Houchart is our most popular Provençal rosé. Its peachy fruit and rich body are an easygoing delight. We just received our last half pallet for the year.

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Azul y Garanza NavarraA Liter of Garnacha
2020 Navarra (Azul y Garanza)
Sale Price $14.99 per Liter – $152.90 case of twelve
Navarra is the Spanish region most associated with rosé made from Garnacha. Azul y Garanza’s 2020 is a full Liter made from organic grapes. Serve this with grilled artichokes and rosy slices of jamón serrano.

Parés Baltà Cava BrutOrganic Cava
Cava Brut (Parés Baltà)
Sale Price $11.99 – $129.50 case of twelve
On steamy, hot days, we can’t think of anything better to cool down with than cold bubbles, like this dry Spanish sparkler. Aged a year in bottle, this organic blend of Parellada, Macabeo, and Xarel-lo is fragrant with green apples, lemon peel, and yellow plums. At this sale price, this refreshingly effervescent Cava is also perfect for mimosas and other cocktails. 

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Loire Valley Originals
2020 R20 (O. Lemasson)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
2020 Poivre et Sel (O. Lemasson)
Sale Price $29.99 – $305.90 case of twelve
O Lemasson R20Sadly, these are a few of the last wines that Olivier Lemasson produced before his death. His innovative vision of Loire Valley wines will be missed, but hopefully his estate will regroup and continue. His wines, made from under-appreciated Loire Valley grapes, were clearly and passionately in the natural category. These two reds are low in ABV and do not contain added sulfites. O Lemasson Poivre et SelThe R20 is a zesty blend of 50% Grolleau along with Cabernet Franc, Côt, and Gamay. This is gorgeously fruity with a pleasingly funky, barnyardy finish. Poivre et Sel is a tribute to the peppery Pineau d’Aunis grape variety. Both of these wonderfully original wines should be served slightly chilled and don’t demand food, but would be best enjoyed outside.

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Averaen Pinot Noir

Willamette Pinot Noir
2019 Pinot Noir (Averaen)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Averaen’s 2019 is exquisitely balanced between subtle berry fruit, foresty spice, and a minerally finish. Achieving this at this price point makes it a fantastic value in Willamette Valley Pinot Noir.


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Monemvasia
2019 Laconia Kydonitsa (Monemvasia Winery)
2019 Laconia Monemvasia (Monemvasia Winery)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
Monemvasia Winery Laconia KydonitsaLocated in Laconia on the southern tip of Greece’s Peloponnese, the Monemvasia Winery shares its name with the Monemvasia grape and also with the medieval town and its island, which is featured on the Monemvasia’s label. The organic winery has made it their mission to rescue obscure native grapes from extinction, two of which we are offering this month.Monemvasia Winery Laconia Monemvasia Both dry whites are unoaked, wildly aromatic, and beautifully textured. The Kydonitsa is full of white flowers, pineapple, and quince (fitting, as its name is a diminutive of ‘kydoni,’ the word for quince). The Monemvasia is also floral, but with a fleshier body and pear fruit. Follow the advice of their wonderful labels and enjoy with grilled fish and ‘‘butter-scented risotto with asparagus and crispy prosciutto.”

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Monplaisir
2019 Bordeaux Supérieur (Cru Monplaisir)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Cru Monplaisir Bordeaux SupérieurProduced from two parcels abutting the boundary with Margaux, this 2019 Bordeaux Supérieur delivers far greater depth and complexity than its label would suggest. With one vineyard sitting below Ch. d’Issan and the other below Ch. Margaux, Cru Monplaisir produces a dark, fragrant blend of Merlot (75%), Cabernet Sauvignon (20%), and Cabernet Franc. With its ripe tannins and plummy fruit, it will be a fine match with grilled lamb.

Specialty Foods

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Two from Tulip Tree Creamery
Trillium $11.99 per 8 oz. pc  (Reg. Price $14.99)
Foxglove $11.99 per 8 oz. pc   (Reg. Price $14.99)

Tulip Tree Creamery Trillium cheeseHailing from Indianapolis, Tulip Tree Creamery has been making delicious and award-winning cheeses since 2014. The critically acclaimed Trillium is a luscious and earthy triple cream that is as indulgent as it is complex. The sweet, buttery interior is perfectly balanced by the bloomy rind, which carries rich notes of mushrooms and spring grasses. Tulip Tree Creamery Foxglove cheese Foxglove, Trillium’s washed-rind counterpart, packs a big, bold taste in a small package. The delightfully funky (and pungent!) exterior, combined with the rich double cream body, provides a beautiful bite for the slightly more adventurous cheese enthusiast.

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Devodier 30-mo ‘Ancient Cellars’ Prosciutto di Parma $32.99 per lb  (Reg. Price $36.99)
The Devodier family has been producing the finest quality prosciutto in Parma for over 200 years. This prosciutto has been carefully aged for at least 30 months in the oldest part of their aging facility, which they playfully describe as a “tiny dungeon.” The long aging yields a ham that is distinctly sweet with notes of butterscotch and fresh tree nuts. The flavor is subtle and delicate without sacrificing complexity. While most prosciuttos are pressed flat before aging, here the leg is left in its natural shape, helping it maintain a soft, melt-in-your-mouth texture that will definitely make it the star of your charcuterie board.

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Red Table Meat Co. Salami François $32.99 per lb   (Reg. Price $34.99)
Red Table Meat Company Salami FrançoisRed Table Meat is nestled squarely in pork country, Minneapolis. Growing up in a rural farming community himself, Salumist Mike Phillips understands the value of working closely with local farmers to produce delicious and humanely raised cured meats. Their Salami François is named after Mike Phillips’ mentor, François Vecchio, and is a rich, Genoa-style salami that is low in salt but high in flavor. This soft and buttery salami is great for snacking and can be enjoyed either thinly sliced or rough-cut.

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Wines of the Month — July 19, 2021 through August 18, 2021

Château de Rivereau Côtes de Bourg2016 Côtes de Bourg (Château de Rivereau)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
The 2016 Château de Rivereau is a mature, smooth, earthy, and dry Bordeaux value. Have this with salad, a slab of pâté, cornichons, mustard, and a favorite cheese.

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Moulin de Gassac Pays dHérault Blanc Guilhem

2019 Pays d’Hérault Blanc ‘Guilhem’ (Moulin de Gassac)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
The Guilhem lineup from Moulin de Gassac are all great values, including this month’s dry white blend of Vermentino, Sauvignon, and Terret. Its peachy fruit and crisp dryness will pair well with spicy noodles and crab cakes.

Naia Rueda2019 Rueda (Naia)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
The Verdejo grape of Rueda is Spain’s near equivalent to Sauvignon Blanc. Naia is well-balanced, citrusy, and minerally, and a fine match for a vegetable paella.

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Rocca di Castagnoli Chianti

2018 Chianti (Rocca di Castagnoli)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
This hearty, organic Chianti is mostly Sangiovese augmented by 10% Ciliegiolo. Its dark cherry fruit is matched by spicy tannins and an earthy dryness. Terrific with all types of pasta or with bean dishes.


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