Newsletter

June 15, 2020 – July 14, 2020

Pinot Noir and Proximity

Once centered in Burgundy, Pinot Noir has proven successful in many other locations, but one might argue that the Burgundian notion of bottling wines from a single vineyard has become as influential as the grape itself. Indeed, other grapes with Pinot Noir-like qualities, planted in specific sites, are now making wines with wonderful aromas, pretty fruit and real structure.

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Willamette Pinot Noir
2017 Willamette Pinot Noir (Ken Wright Cellars)
Sale Price $21.99 – $224.30 case of twelve
Ken Wright Cellars Willamette Pinot Noir Ken Wright’s most highly regarded wines are his numerous single vineyard Pinot Noirs, which showcase with stunning clarity the differences that site and soil can have on the grape when the quality is high and the winemaking is decidedly hands off. But his much more affordable Willamette Valley cuvée, blended from a number of select vineyard sites within the Willamette Valley AVA, is as fine a representative of its place as any. Deep yet graceful, the elegant fruit is blanketed in foresty spice, the signature of Oregon Pinot.

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Corvina’s Time
Ca’ La Bionda Valpolicella Classico Superiore Casal Vegri 2017 Valpolicella Classico Superiore ‘Casal Vegri’ (Ca’ La Bionda)
Sale Price $21.99 – $224.30 case of twelve
We wonder what would have happened in Valpolicella if the Corvina grape variety had not been subjected to the drying process that leads to Ripasso and Amarone wines. Those deep, dark, strong wines have their obvious appeal, but when a single vineyard Casal Vegri from Ca’ La Bionda is opened we lose interest in its dried-grape cousins. The 2017 has such gorgeous floral aromas and subtle berry fruit that we love to imagine it with a roasted sea bass stuffed with fennel. For us this compares to a Premier Cru Burgundy from the Côte de Beaune.

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Côte de Nuits
2016 Bourgogne Pinot Noir (Mongeard-Mugneret)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
Mongeard-Mugneret Bourgogne Pinot NoirThe 2016 Bourgogne Rouge from Mongeard-Mugneret gives a terrific snapshot of the vintage and a look into the Côte de Nuits style of the producer. This Pinot Noir has a fine stony aroma, ample fruit and an earthy mushroom finish. Real Burgundy for a fair price.

Bird Song Bourgueil
2017 Bourgueil ‘Cuvée Beauvais’ (Domaine de la Chanteleuserie)
Sale Price $17.99 –– $183.50 case of twelve
Domaine de la Chanteleuserie Bourgueil Cuvée BeauvaisIn the Loire Valley they take Cabernet Franc, a Bordeaux grape, and give it a Burgundian treatment. Instead of just extracting more tannins, skilled pro­ducers like Chanteleuserie create a balance of fruit and structure. While yields have been down in recent vintages, the wines have been qualitatively successful. Beauvais is a renowned vineyard in Bourgueil, and the 2017 is a superb value. This has charm in spades, with its ripe fruit and dry, peppery finish.

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Pinot Pfalz
2017 Pinot Noir (Koehler-Ruprecht)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of four
Koehler-Ruprecht Pinot NoirThe Pfalz district is like Burgundy in Germany. Koehler-Ruprecht makes some excellent Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc here, but the real surprise is their Pinot Noir. The 2017 is a lively, juicy plum and berry fruited wine with a crisp, dry finish. A slight chill will enhance its attributes.

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An Island in Tuscany
2016 Chianti Classico (Isole e Olena)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
Isole e Olena Chianti ClassicoPerhaps it’s a stretch to call Isole e Olena’s Chianti Classico a single vineyard wine, but a few years back proprietor Paolo de Marchi did have his property fenced in to prevent the devastation being caused by wild boars and deer. He also spent $110,000 dollars on laurel and evergreen shrubs to disguise the fence, preserving the Tuscan landscape. Long one of our favorite Tuscan producers, Isole has made a fabulous 2016 Chianti Classico. This is a full-flavored Sangiovese with bright cherry fruit and hints of bay leaf and thyme.

Listed prices are honored through July 14th, 2020. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 44, No. 7

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The Big Pink Wave
The rise in popularity in rosé continues. Every winemaking country now churns out the pink stuff. And almost all of it is now dry.

Armas de Guerra Bierzo Rosado Mencia

Bierzo
2019 Bierzo Rosado (Armas de Guerra)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
From northwest Spain, Armas de Guerra makes this peppery, dry rosado from the Mencia grape. A nice wine for a seafood and rice dish.

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Parés Baltà Penedès Ros de Pacs

Ros de Pacs
2019 Penedès ‘Ros de Pacs’ (Parés Baltà)
Sale Price $12.99 – $132.50 case of twelve
The Catalan folks at Parés Baltà are all-in on organics. Their Ros de Pacs is packed with dry, earthy flavor. Made with Garnatxa, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, it may be lighter in color this year, but it still has pink power. Great for tacos.

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Those Fun Loving Cisterciens
2019 Cistercien Rosé (Gobelsburg)
Sale Price $15.99 – $163.10 case of twelve
Gobelsburg Cistercien RoséThe history of the Schlosskellerei Gobelsburg dates back to 1171, so the Cisterciens have had plenty of time to practice making rosé. This delicious, zesty and plummy blend of Zweigelt and Pinot Noir is a lovely match for a beet salad and a cheese board.

Organic Argentine Rosé
Domaine Bousquet Rosé2020 Rosé (Domaine Bousquet)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
The South Americans are now crashing the rosé party. Domaine Bousquet’s 2020 (yes, 2020) is a full-flavored blend of organic Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s peachy and fresh. Bring on the empanadas.

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Gris Marin Sable de CamargueGris Marin
2019 Sable de Camargue (Gris Marin)
Sale Price $9.99 – $101.90 case of twelve
Gris Marin may be the perfect ten dollar rosé. Made from grapes grown in the sandy soil of the Camargue, this pale, dry rosé is perfect for light summer fare.

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Picture Perfect Provence
2019 Les Baux de Provence Rosé (Mas de Gourgonnier) Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Mas de Gourgonnier Les Baux de Provence RoséThe Mas de Gourgonnier label presents a very pretty picture: a vineyard, cypress trees and a Provençal house nestled beneath the hills. It makes us want to dive into the scenery. With the 2019 this is again one of our favorite rosés. Dry with nice texture, this would be great with a seafood stew.


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Cru Communale Muscadet
2015 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine ‘Château-Thébaud’ (Domaine de la Pépière)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet Sèvre et Maine ‘Château-ThébaudWe were mildly shocked to learn that Marc Ollivier had retired. Our Muscadet epiphany was Marc’s single-vineyard old vine Clos des Briords. With his children uninterested in viticulture, Marc forged a plan to keep the Domaine alive: he hired and eventually made partners two talented young vignerons. In recent years the Muscadet authorities have designated some vineyard areas as Cru Communale, a higher grade of Muscadet. The Cru of Château-Thébaud shares the same fissured granite soil as Briords. The wine is given extended lees contact (30 months in the case of the 2015) which makes a richer, creamier style of Muscadet that still maintains its fine minerality. This is a gastronomic style of Muscadet that would be great with crab or lobster. Happy retirement to Marc; the future of La Pépière sounds, looks and tastes great.

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Corsican Vermentinu
2017 Vin de France ‘Cuvée Faustine’ (Domaine Comte Abbatucci)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
Domaine Comte  Abbatucci  Vin de France Cuvée FaustineCorsica is an island of intense aromas and dramatic beauty. The land is mostly mountainous and covered with maquis, a wild shrub and herb mixture that flavors the wonderful cheese and charcuterie made on the island. Domaine Comte Abbatucci is a biodynamic producer whose low yielding vines produce Faustine, easily the most intense Vermentinu we have had in the store. It’s got weight and texture to go along with herbal and citrus blossom flavors, and the amazing finish just glides along. Have this with a grilled striped bass sprinkled with herbs.

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Les Monts Damnés
2018 Sancerre ‘Les Monts Damnés’ (Thomas-Labaille)
Sale Price $29.99 – $305.90 case of twelve
Thomas-Labaille Sancerre Les Monts DamnésWe understand that $30 is a lot for a bottle of white wine, but this producer could successfully charge even more for it. The village of Chavignol lies at the base of Les Monts Damnés which is arguably the best vineyard in Sancerre. Given the steep slope, southern exposure and excellent drainage, superb wines come from this vineyard nearly every year. Plus, this wine is a rarity—a Sauvignon Blanc that will improve with age. 2018 was a very good year, giving a lovely combination of a full mouthfeel, concentrated citrus flavors and a crisp, lively finish.

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Syrahvissante
2016 Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes ‘Syrahvissante’ (Louis Cheze)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Louis Cheze Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes SyrahvissanteA relative newcomer in the Northern Rhône, Louis Cheze started out in 1978 with just 1 hectare of vineyards in Saint-Joseph. He’s had much success along the way to owning 30 hectares in a number of appellations, but he still prefers to let his wines speak for themselves. Young vines planted in shallow granite soil give this medium-bodied, supple and peppery Syrah. Have it with a host of outdoor fare, from barbecue to grilled sausages with mushrooms.

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Chardonnay Piedmont-style
2018 Piemonte Chardonnay ‘Crevoglio’ (Borgo Maragliano)
Sale Price $9.99 – $101.90 of twelve
Borgo Maragliano Piemonte Chardonnay CrevoglioBecause there are a fascinating amount of native grapes, a lot of the time our Italian section is a Chardonnay-free zone. But every couple of vintages Crevoglio catches us by surprise. Borgo Maragliano in Loazzolo, Piedmont makes this lively and fun Chardonnay. While technically dry, it does not lack in fruit— melon, peach and fig flood the palate. It also has good depth and sneaky length. And what a great bargain it is.


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Wines of the Month — June 15, 2020 through July 14, 2020

Domaine de Millet Côtes de Gascogne Blanc

2018 Côtes de Gascogne Blanc (Domaine de Millet)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
With their rosé and now their white, Domaine de Millet is one of our best-value French wineries. This equal parts blend of Colombard and Ugni Blanc is aromatic, crisp and dry.

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Ken Forrester Chenin Blanc Petit

2019 Chenin Blanc ‘Petit’ (Ken Forrester)
Sale Price $7.99 – $86.29 case of twelve
In our opinion South Africa’s best white wine is Chenin Blanc. And Ken Forrester makes the best bargain. Light, zesty and dry.

André Brunel Vin de Pays de Vaucluse Grenache

2018 Vin de Pays de Vaucluse ‘Grenache’ (André Brunel)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
André Brunel’s Vin de Pays Grenache is always a pleaser. The 2018 gushes with bright red fruit and enough tannin to maintain its dry finish.

redlineCabert Pinot Grigio

2019 Pinot Grigio (Cabert)
Sale Price $7.99 – $86.29 case of twelve
The 2019 Cabert is what most people want in a Pinot Grigio— fresh and lively with good, clean fruit. And, of course, a bargain price.