Newsletter

February 15, 2019 – March 14, 2019

Sanguis Jovas, San Giovanni, Sangiovese

Sangiovese is the most planted grapevine in Italy, so it stands to reason that it goes by many names. In Tuscany the discussion is largely about clonal selection and what other grapes are permissible. This results in a fascinating variety of Sangioveses produced not too far away from one another.

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Montepulciano, the Village
2015 Cune Rioja2017 Rosso di Montepulciano (Dei)
Sale Price $15.99 – $163.10 case of twelve
Producers in the Tuscan hilltop village of Montepulciano call their Sangiovese Prugnolo Gentile. The top wine, Vino Nobile, is substantial and tannic. The younger version, Rosso, is a fresh, ready-to-drink red. The 2017 from Dei is a charmer, with a perfect balance of plum and cherry fruit and crisp, lively tannins.

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Montefalco
2015 Montefalco Rosso (Perticaia)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
Baudry Chinon Les GrangesHere we have strayed over the Tuscan border into Umbria, where Sangiovese is blended with Sagrantino, a dark and brooding local grape. Perticaia’s 2015 is powerfully ripe and round, with bold black cherry fruit and peppery spice. The Sangiovese gives it an upfront fruit quality while the aggressively tannic Sagrantino gives a structured, dry finish. Have this with a roast leg of lamb.

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Montalcino
2015 Rosso di Montalcino (Sesta di Sopra)
Sale Price $27.99 – $285.50 case of twelve
Baudry Chinon Les GrangesMontalcino is the crowned monarch of Tuscany. Brunello (the wine and also the local name of the Sangiovese grape) really needs time to age and evolve to become its absolute best. Fortunately, there is the younger, much more ready-to-drink Rosso di Montalcino, which in a vintage like 2015 has many of the dark, rich qualities of Brunello without the price. Sesta di Sopra is a garage-sized operation of impeccable quality. The 2015 Rosso is a potent merger of Sangiovese Grosso with lovely oak barrels to produce a filigree of earthiness and finely grained tannins.

Organic Sangiovese
2017 Chianti ‘Biskero’ (Salcheto)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Château Romfort Côtes de BourgNamed after the stream flowing by its property and the willow trees (‘salco’ in old Tuscan dialect) surrounding it, Salcheto is committed to the health of the environment beyond just biodynamically grown grapes. The winery has won awards for sustainability in energy, water use, and biodiversity, even going so far as to become the first winery to use a bottle with a certified carbon footprint. Based in Montepulciano, Salcheto makes both a Rosso and a Chianti (Montepulciano is in the DOCG zone of Chianti Colli Senesi). While both are similar Sangiovese-dominant blends, the Chianti is sourced from older vines and barrel-aged for four months, while the Rosso sees only stainless steel. Time in oak has created a silky, balanced red with seamless fruit, herbs, and gentle tannins, all at the lowest price for a biodynamic wine that we’ve ever seen. Superb with either a roast pork loin or a late night pizza. As with many biodynamic wines, not every bottle will always taste the same as the next one. But that’s what makes these wines vibrant and unique.

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Carmignano
2015 Carmignano ‘Santa Cristina in Pilli’ (Ambra)
Sale Price $16.99 – $173.30 case of twelve
Domaine de la Janasse Côtes du Rhône Villages Terre d’Argile’ Carmignano is one of oldest appellations in the world. A decree by Duke Cosimo de Medici in 1716 laid out the vineyard area of Carmignano and today it covers much the same area as was defined then. The Duke also dispatched his people to France to collect different vines, which is how Uva Francesca (Cabernet Sauvignon) was allowed into the blend. Located to the west of Florence on a balcony of hills, Carmignano produces sturdier, more structured Sangiovese wines than those found in Chianti. Ambra’s 2015 is particularly impressive. The finished blend of Sangiovese (75%), Canaiolo (10%), and Cabernet (10%) has subtle fruit, an earthy dryness, and gorgeous finishing tannins.

 

Listed prices are honored through March 14th, 2019. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 43, No. 3

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Refreshingly Fresh Valpolicella
2017 Valpolicella (Ca’ La Bionda)
Sale Price $13.99 – $142.70 case of twelve
Stéphane Aviron Julienas Vieilles VignesThe runaway success of Amarone has left Valpolicella producers in a quandary. Do they run with the pack and dry a majority of their grapes for the bigger styles? Or do they continue to pursue quality in the pleasingly food-oriented style of brisk, young, ‘fresh’ grape Valpolicella? At Ca’ la Bionda they reserve only their absolute best bunches of grapes from a single vineyard for Amarone. They also make a spectacular single-vineyard “Casal Vegri” Valpolicella Classico Superiore from fresh grapes that could easily be coaxed into Amarone. Which makes their commitment to making an excellent basic Valpolicella even more commendable. Their 2017 Valpolicella is a great food-friendly bargain. Flavors of ripe cherry fruit and almond mingle with herbal aromas of sage and bay leaf to make this an absolutely delicious delight.

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To the Castle
2017 Kamptal Grüner Veltliner (Gobelsburg)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Clos de la Roilette FleurieThe Schlosskellerei Gobelsburg dates back to 1171. The castle is owned by a monastery but was leased in 1996 to Michael Moosbrugger and Willi Bründlmayer. These two talented industry veterans jumpstarted quality in an impressively swift fashion. Their 2017 is a zesty, crisp white with assertive mint and ginger flavors aligned with a dry, minerally finish. This great value will pair well with curried vegetable dishes and fresh broiled fish.

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Green Peppers in Galicia
2017 Albariño (Boal de Arousa)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Stéphane Usseglio VentouxThe Boal de Arousa winery is located in the Galician town of Padron. All over Spain a favorite tapa is a dish of blistered green peppers which originated in Padron. We’re sure that many a plate of Padron peppers was washed down with many a glass of Albariño in Padron before the peppers – and the wine – took Spain by gastronomic storm. This 2017 Albariño is an immediate aromatic wonder with notes of fresh melon and toasted cumin. The palate follows with lean and zesty crispness. Perfect for scallops and a certain peppery side dish.

Recougne remains Recougne
Charly Thevenet Régnié Grain & Granit2015 Bordeaux Supérieur (Château Recougne)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
Château Recougne is as reliable a red Bordeaux Supérieur as you’ll get. And the price has always been equally reliable. The 2015 vintage in Bordeaux has been excellent across all appellations. So the only thing that we can report about this vintage of Recougne is that it might be a little bigger and richer than some others, but it is still packed with good old-fashioned Bordeaux density with a classic dry finish. You could lose a few bottles of this (or a case) in your cellar and it will only improve.

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Take a Left at the Pine Tree
2017 Langhe Nebbiolo (Cantina del Pino)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Damien Coquelet Chiroubles Vieilles VignesCantina del Pino is one of the top Barbaresco producers, yet their prices remain modest. This can only be attributed to Renato Vacca, a sage interpreter of Nebbiolo. His wines are guileless yet complex. A case in point is his 2017 Langhe Nebbiolo. The aromas are pure Nebbiolo, with rose petal, raspberry, and cinnamon. Then the palate amplifies these flavors with deep intensity out of an almost imperceptible body. The fine tannins weave a silky red cloth from such lovely lightness.

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Jurançon Sec
2017 Jurançon Sec (Clos Lapeyre)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Damien Coquelet Chiroubles Vieilles VignesA recent trip to Southwest France revealed this gem. Nestled at the foot of the Pyrenees, the Jurançon appellation makes only white wines, both sweet and dry, from a small variety of local grapes. Clos Lapeyre’s organic dry Jurançon (100% Gros Manseng) benefits from cool nights and a relatively late harvest to deliver a brisk and taut white with aromatic intensity and concentrated citrus and tropical fruit flavors. Bracing acidity and a long mineral finish add to the allure. Serve with seared haddock and roasted potatoes.


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Graves de Vayres
2017 Graves de Vayres (Château Fage)
Sale Price $10.99 – $112.10 case of twelve
Marengo Dolcetto d’AlbaThe Graves de Vayres is not an appendage of the better known appellation of Graves proper. It is a postage-stamp-sized appellation located on the south bank of the Dordogne River facing St. Emilion and Pomerol. Château Fage’s 2017 is a fleshy and ripe blend of Semillon (60%) and Sauvignon that delivers a textured, earthy dry white with citrussy fruit. Perfect for sole and salmon. 

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The Byron Nielson Classic
2016 Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir (Nielson)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Bollig-Lehnert Trittenheim RieslingThe Byron winery was an early enthusiast of Pinot Noir in Santa Barbara County. Today the Nielson Winery honors both Byron and Uriel J. Nielson, who planted the original Pinot Noir vineyard in Santa Barbara in 1964. The 2016 version is a richly fruited, judiciously oaked Pinot Noir with a gripping dry finish. Have this with a chicken and chick pea stew. 

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Beau Blanc
2017 Beaujolais Blanc (Terres Dorées)
Sale Price $15.99 – $163.10 case of twelve
Château de Lascaux Languedoc RougeJean-Paul Brun’s first Beaujolais wasn’t a red. It was this, his terrific Chardonnay grown in the limestone of the Bas-Beaujolais. This incredible vineyard is now 80 years old, and in 2017 it produced an impressively weighty, yet fresh, unoaked dry white. Have with crab cakes and a spicy aioli. 

First Quarterly Wine Sale of 2019
Friday, February 22nd to
Sunday, March 3rd
Details: 10% off six bottles; 20% off twelve bottles. Wines of the Month (back page), fortified wines (Port, Sherry, Vermouth, etc.) and sparkling wines may be included for a 10% discount. Blue tagged (NET) wines and jug wines (1.5L and 3L) are excluded.

Specialty Foods
Melt Away the Winter

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Fontina Valle d’Aosta (DOP) $14.99 per lb
(Regular Price $16.99)

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Emmentaler $11.99 per lb
(Regular Price $13.99)

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Spring Brook Farm Reading Raclette $15.99 per lb    (Regular Price $16.99)

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Schnebelhorn $20.99 per lb
(Regular Price $22.99)

Bollig-Lehnert Trittenheim RieslingThe winter is the best time of the year to reflect upon and celebrate good food, warmth, friends, and family. In honor of the best parts of the colder months we are offering a selection of melting cheeses that are as well suited to a classic fondue as they are to a contemporary grilled cheese. Fontina Valle d’Aosta offers a bold, beefy flavor that will certainly stand out for the more adventurous palate. Spring Brook Farm’s Reading Raclette (aged 3 months) offers complex and rustic flavors that are a Vermont take on this European classic. Schnebelhorn is a wonderfully nutty Alpine cheese. It hails from St. Gallen, Switzerland and will add a bit of bite to your fondue or your cheese board. Emmentaler is surely one of the most popular European melting cheeses. A relatively mild flavor and creamy texture make this a perfect cheese to balance with stronger flavors while providing stringy, gooey goodness to all of your melted cheese dishes.

Fondue is an excellent winter dish for friends, family, or even dinner for one. Here is our staff favorite fondue recipe. Enjoy!

Rub the inside of the pot with the garlic. Melt butter in the pan and blend in flour, then add wine. If using cornstarch, mix with wine first, then add to butter. Add kirsch. Slowly add cheese, stirring continuously. Once combined, cook until the alcohol has evaporated. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Serve with toast, salami, vegetables (roasted, steamed or pickled), fruit, cookies. . . anything, really. Get creative!


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Wines of the Month — February 15, 2019 through March 14, 2019

Talamonti Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Moda

2017 Pé Tinto (Esporão)
Sale Price $4.99 – $53.89 case of twelve
Yes, it’s good. Yes, you can drink it. Yes, Pé Tinto is back. Seriously, the 2017 is a rock solid, simple, and good Portuguese red.

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2016 Bordeaux Rouge (Le Clairiot)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
Le Clairiot delivers a firm, dry red with an earthy backbone. An authentic ready-to-drink Bordeaux with good intensity.


Echo Sauvignon Blanc

2016 Douro Tinto ‘Vale do Bomfim’ (Dow)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
Dow’s Ports are now top notch and their dry red Douros keep getting better and better. It helps when a vintage like 2016 in Portugal comes around. Big and bright, deep and polished, this is a fine value.

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2017 Gavi ‘Masera’ (Stefano Massone)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
This is a cool, crisp Gavi with surprising concentration. Peach and apricot fruit lead to a fine dry finish.