Newsletter

December 10, 2016 – January 14, 2017

Great Bottles Make Great Gifts

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Siro Pacenti‘Pelagrilli’ Brunello di MontalcinoBrunello
2011 Brunello di Montalcino ‘Pelagrilli’ (Siro Pacenti)
Regular Price $49.99 – Sale Price $39.99 NET
The wines of Siro Pacenti define elegance in Brunello di Montalcino. The entry-level Pelagrilli from the forward 2011 vintage has wonderful floral aromas, flavors of smoke, truffles, and plums, along with some delicate tannins in the long, lively finish. If you want a step up from the Pelagrilli, we also have their 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva PS.

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Barolo
2010 Barolo Riserva ‘Bussia Vigna Mondoca’ (Oddero)
Regular Price $99.99 – Sale Price $79.99 NET
Oddero Bussia Vigna Mondoca Barolo RiservaThe 2010 vintage in Barolo was amazingly good. This may be the pinnacle of what is available to us. The Odderos made just 150 cases of the 2010 Bussia Vigna Mondoca. This parcel is like a Grand Cru within an already formidable Cru. Our tasting note reads, ‘an amazing mix of aromas, flowers, earth, berries, finish builds and lasts…’.

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Château La Bridaine Saint JulienSaint Julien
2014 Saint Julien (Château La Bridaine)
Regular Price $34.99 – Sale Price $27.99 NET
There’s more Bordeaux on the inside pages, but this Saint Julien has the real depth and breed of a fine Medoc. Its plummy aromas lead to the dry, earthy flavors we like about fine French Cabernet.

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Ribolla Spumante Brut Nature ‘RBL’ (i Clivi)
Regular Price $28.99 – Sale Price $19.99 NET
i Clivi ‘RBL’ Ribolla Spumante Brut NatureWe are always intrigued by sparkling wine made from indigenous varieties, so if a wine is an effervescent pleasure to drink and tastes as if it can only come from one place on earth, then we are hooked. The RBL checks off all the boxes plus one more: organic. Composed of Ribolla Gialla (hence its name) from Friuli near the Slovenian border, the RBL is a lovely sparkler with a fine, savory, slightly saline finish that makes it the perfect aperitif. Subtle scents of beeswax and fresh white blossoms lead to a mouthful of bright citrus and apricot fruit with a trace of chalk. At almost ten dollars less than its normal price, now is the time to taste this Ribolla Gialla and its corner of Northeastern Italy.

Paul Pernot
2015 Beaune ‘Clos du Dessus des Marconnets’ (Domaine Paul Pernot)
Regular Price $44.99 – Sale Price $35.99 NET
2015 Bourgogne Blanc (Domaine Paul Pernot)
Regular Price $29.99 – Sale Price $23.99 NET
Domaine Paul Pernot Bourgogne BlancDomaine Paul Pernot is mainly known for their outstanding white Puligny-Montrachet, but their rare red wines are excellent as well. This red Beaune comes from a vineyard that they solely own. The 2015 Clos du Dessus des Marconnets combines ripe berry fruit with a quarry full of crushed rocks and foresty aromas. It may be on the rustic side, but it is perfect for a long-braised beef stew with mushrooms. The 2015 Bourgogne Blanc comes from vines in Puligny near the border with Meursault. In this vintage you get a real treat, an excellent white Burgundy at a great price.

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All-Loire Cabernet Franc
2014 Chinon ‘Les Grézeaux’ (Domaine Bernard Baudry)
Regular Price $27.99 – Sale Price $21.99 NET
Domaine Bernard Baudry ‘Les Grézeaux’ ChinonWe tasted this wine with Mathieu Baudry back in February 2015 and it has haunted us ever since. Les Grézeaux is not Baudry’s most powerful Chinon, but it is perfectly balanced. The vineyard is a mix of gravel and granite with vines between 50 and 60 years old, giving the wine some forward fruit plus ample tannic depth. And with Cabernet Franc there is the wonderful aroma of spicy berries and bloody game. A great vintage for this wine.

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All-American Cabernet Sauvignon
2013 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (Arrowood)
Regular Price $34.99– Sale Price $27.99 NET
Arrowood Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon The 2013 vintage in Northern California delivered in a very big way. Cabernet Sauvignon especially produced a harmony of intense fruit, savory tannins, and gorgeous structure. Arrowood’s 2013 from Knights Valley in Sonoma is a beautifully balanced, full-bodied Cabernet with wave upon wave of dark fruit and ample oak. Have this with a nicely marbled ribeye.

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Cantine Buglioni ‘Il Bugiardo’ Valpolicella RipassoBuglioni Bugiardo
2012 Valpolicella Ripasso ‘Il Bugiardo’ (Cantine Buglioni)
Regular Price $24.99– Sale Price $19.99 NET
Il Bugiardo means ‘the liar,’ by which we imagine Cantine Buglioni means to imply that it can fool tasters into thinking this wine is an Amarone. It is in truth a fantastic Ripasso, with a paradoxical dried fruit aroma and a dry, nicely structured finish.

Listed prices are honored through January 14th, 2017. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 41, No. 1

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Godello
2015 Valdeorras ‘Louro’ (Rafael Palacios)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Rafael Palacios ‘Louro’ ValdeorrasThe coastal Albariño grape may have put Galician white wine on the fine wine map, but the Godello grape grown on steep granitic hillsides in Valdeorras is steadily surpassing it. Rafael Palacios is making some of the best dry white wines in Spain. You may be acquainted with his Bolo label, which is a lively, minerally, Chablis-like white that sings for $14.99. His next wine, Louro, is more like a Meursault with its richness and roundness and its underground river of minerals. The 2015 is an amazingly balanced white for the finest seafood you can source.

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Grüner Terraces
2015 Grüner Veltliner Federspiel ‘Terrassen’ (Domäne Wachau)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Domäne Wachau ‘Terrassen’ Grüner Veltliner FederspielThere are several producers in the Wachau Valley of the Danube in Austria that make world-class white wine and charge accordingly. Fortunately there is also the Domäne Wachau. This cooperative winery with prime vineyard holdings can release a wine that shows what the Wachau can produce, but at a more reasonable price. Their Federspiel is a medium-bodied dry white with above average qualities. The 2015 vintage has lifted this normally very good Grüner to abnormally excellent status. This is a spicy, herbal, minerally white wine with a sharp focus and a primal, truly glorious intensity.

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Champagne of Choice
Brut Réserve Champagne (Jean Vesselle)
Sale Price $37.99 – $410.30 case of twelve
Brut ‘Oeil de Perdrix’ Champagne (Jean Vesselle)
Sale Price $37.99 – $410.30 case of twelve
Jean Vesselle Brut Réserve ChampagneWhen we first visited Jean Vesselle demand for their Champagne was so great that they had no wine to sell. The tasting and tour was informative and featured the first and only time we saw a day care center and lunch room in a Champagne producer’s facilities. This is truly a family operation producing high-level Champagne from their own vineyards in the charmingly named village of Bouzy. Jean Vesselle Brut ‘Oeil de Perdrix’ ChampagnWhen demand eased we leapt on these wines because we love the super Brut style of their Pinot Noir-based bubblies and the superb value of their wines. These recently disgorged bottlings are pure and lovely. The Brut Reserve is amazing with fine, persistent bubbles and delicate red-berry flavor. The Oeil de Perdrix is a pale dry Rosé that is long and lingering with unmistakable breed.

Blaye
2014 Blaye – Côtes de Bordeaux (Château Haut-Vrillant)
Sale Price $9.99 – $101.90 case of twelve
Château Haut-Vrillant Blaye – Côtes de BordeauxBordeaux’ heroic production ensures that there is always value from one of the highest-profile wine regions. The Côtes de Blaye is a good place to look for reasonably priced, sturdy dry reds. Haut-Vrillant is smooth with Merlot fruit and dry with good tannic structure. A fine red to serve with a tranche of pàté de campagne or, if you have the time, with your favorite meatloaf.

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The Prosecco Effect
Prosecco (Valdo)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
Valdo ProseccoThe holidays can be stressful, and cooking and cleaning up can seem endless, and this is where Prosecco has its most positive effects. Valdo won’t chop the onions or dry the dishes, but it will be there for you (and your guests) as an affordable and dry sparkling value. As a spritz, for a Bellini, or on its own, this will help the holidays slide by with ease and pleasure.

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Alberdi
La Rioja Alta ‘Viña Alberdi’ Rioja Reserva2010 Rioja Reserva ‘Viña Alberdi’ (La Rioja Alta)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Even with advances in vineyard management vintages do matter. The 2010 vintage in Rioja was excellent and the Viña Alberdi delivers on its promise. This is a textbook Reserva with its spicy oak upbringing and its earth and dried berry flavors. Great for a lamb stew with chickpeas and garlicky spinach.

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Dr. Heyden’s Dry Style
2015 Oppenheimer Riesling Kabinett (Dr. Heyden)
Sale Price $9.99 – $101.90 case of twelve
Dr Heyden Oppenheimer Riesling KabinettIs German Riesling dry or sweet? When it comes to a Kabinett level wine, made from grapes that achieve sugar levels that can be fruity to some and sweet to others, the jury will always be out. So we appreciate that this Rheinhessen Riesling from Dr. Heyden advertises itself as ‘dry-style.’ It has Riesling’s signature fine fruity aroma, an ample middle palate of pear and apple fruit, and a crisp, almost dry finish. This delicious Riesling value has a perfectly poetic poise. It’s dry and not dry and lovely with spicy pad thai.

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Saint-Emilion
2012 Saint-Emilion Grand Cru (Chateau Piney)
Sale Price $21.99 – $224.30 case of twelve
Chateau Piney Saint-Emilion Grand CruThe lovely Bordeaux town of Saint-Emilion has many illustrious Chateaux, and many industrious ones as well. Chateau Piney is a member of the Union de Producteurs de Saint-Emilion, a group that shares costs to keep prices reasonable. We hope someday that wines from this group receive a medaille d’or from the Union de Producteurs de Steak-Frites for all the wine they have made available to bistros around the globe. The 2012 Piney is a real gem in the 2012 vintage, with plush plummy fruit, evenly measured ripe tannins, and an adequately long finish.

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Going Back in Time with Vintage Madeira from Blandy’s
The history of Madeira is linked to casks of wine shipped from the Portuguese island to the pre-independence colonies of the United States. This ageless wonder of a wine has made an admirable rebound and great wines of delicious and historical significance have returned to the market. Blandy’s has led the way with these grape-specific vintage wines.

1996 Malmsey ‘Colheita’
Sale Price $44.99 NET per 500ml
A Malmsey Colheita is a sweet Madeira aged for five years in wood and then bottled and aged further. This is a deep, dark ambrosial dessert wine.

1988 Malmsey
Sale Price $249.99 NET per 750ml
A longer-aged Malmsey has a full range of lush tropical fruit and a tangy orange-rind finish. An open bottle of this nearly 30-year-old wine will drink well indefinitely.

1979 Verdelho
Sale Price $179.99 NET per 750ml
Verdelho is the medium-dry style of Madeira that goes equally well with a mushroom soup or a sharp cheese.

1977 Terrantez
Sale Price $199.99 NET per 750ml
Terrantez is a rare grape now being resurrected. The ’77 is a Blandy’s legend, with razor-sharp acidity and an intense dry finish.

1975 Sercial
Sale Price $179.99 NET per 750ml
Sercial is the driest Madeira, grown from the highest elevations. With its intense dry bite this is like Fino Sherry amplified.

1966 Bual
Sale Price $249.99 NET per 750ml
While not as sweet as Malmsey, Bual has incredible depth of sweetness and spice with a lovely toffee-like soft finish.
Sale Price $1000.00 NET for a case of six
(one bottle of each)

Specialty Foods

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Spring Brook Tarentaise cheeseTarentaise $21.99 per lb.
(Regular price $23.99)

A cheese rooted in the Alpine traditions of European cheese making yet greatly influenced by the terroir of Reading, Vermont. Made from farmstead raw Jersey cow’s milk with a natural washed rind and a semi hard paste, Tarentaise is aged at least 6 months. This time of year yields nutty flavors, which become bright and floral in the warmer months. Spring Brook Farm uses all of the profits from Tarentaise to support their “Farms for City Kids Foundation” which has been in operation since 1993 and brings children for week-long stays on the farm to take part in the care of the animals, make maple syrup, and aid in the aging of the cheeses.

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Winnimere $22.99 per piece 
(Regular price $23.99)

Winnimere cheeseA seasonal cheese from Jasper Hill Farm, made in the winter months with the rich raw milk of hay-fed Ayrshire cows, Winnimere is inspired by Jura Mountain classics such as Vacherin Mont d’Or and Försterkäse. Wrapped in strips of spruce cambium sourced from surrounding woodland and washed in a cultured salt brine, the cheese is then aged 60 days. The result is soft and spoonable, with flavors of bacon, sweet cream, and spruce. A must try for fans of Harbison!

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Fromager d’Affinois With Truffles
$17.99 per lb.  (Regular price $19.99)

A glorious cheese that melds the richness of double cream with earthy truffles. Nothing could be more seasonally appropriate. This double-cream is similar to Brie in appearance and flavor yet differs in production. Before the cheese is made the pasteurized cow’s milk undergoes a process called “ultrafiltration” which breaks down fat molecules and removes water, concentrating all other components. This results in an acceleration of the cheesemaking process, a more luscious texture, and higher protein and calcium content.

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Point Reyes Original Blue $16.99 per lb.
(Regular price $18.99)

Point Reyes Blue cheeseThe Point Reyes Dairy was purchased in 1959 by Bob and Dean Giacomini. By the mid-1990s the farm had grown to a herd of over 500 dairy cows and established a reputation for producing the highest quality milk. Their 720-acre farm could not sustain a dairy of that magnitude and so, with the help of their daughters, they reduced the size of the dairy and transitioned the business into an artisan farmstead cheesemaking facility. In 2000 they commenced cheesemaking with the Original Blue, a rindless raw cow’s milk cheese with a milky white paste and dense blue-green veining. It tastes of sweet farmstead milk with a peppery punch.


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Wines of the Month — December 10, 2016 through January 14, 2017

Quinta do Gradil ‘Ruelas’ Vinho Regional Lisboa 2014 Vinho Regional Lisboa ‘Ruelas’ (Quinta do Gradil)
Sale Price $7.99 – $86.29 case of twelve
Once again Portugal delivers great value wines. Ruelas is a blend of Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional, and Syrah. The result is a smooth and spicy red that is perfect for long-braised winter stews.

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Domaine Brusset ‘Laurent B.’ Côtes du Rhône2015 Côtes du Rhône ‘Laurent B.’ (Domaine Brusset)
Sale Price $9.99 – $107.89 case of twelve
A good Côtes du Rhône is always welcome in wintertime. The 2015 Laurent B. from Brusset has ripe berry fruit and a firm dry finish.


Umani Ronchi ‘Podere’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2015 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo ‘Podere’ (Umani Ronchi)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
Umani Ronchi’s 2015 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is a powerful, dense red that is ideal for spicy pasta dishes or a braised lamb with olives.

 

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Cassa Douro Branco2015 Douro Branco (Cassa)
Sale Price $7.99 – $86.29 case of twelve
Rabigato, Viosinho, and Codega do Larinho make up the blend of this aromatic full-bodied white from the Douro. Have this dry, intense white with a spicy fish stew or a roasted fowl.