Newsletter
January 14, 2015 – February 14, 2015
Tinto, Rosso, Negre
Having just endured the first cold stretch of winter, our thoughts turn to deep, soulful reds to serve with long-braised dishes along with root vegetables. Perhaps winter is not so bad after all.
Catalan
2013 Montsant ‘Mas Picosa’ (Capcanes)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
2013 Conca de Barberà (Cara Nord)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
In Catalonia red wine is proudly called ‘vi negre.’ These two hearty Mediterranean reds are made from Garnatxa, Syrah, and, in the case of the Cara Nord, some Garrut – which may or may not be Mourvèdre/Monastrell. Mas Picosa comes from Montsant and is a full flavored, ripe mix of berry fruit and spicy tannins.
Have the Mas Picosa with a pimento-laced dish of chicken and rice along with some bitter greens.
Cara Nord means ‘north face.’ A ‘conca’ is a crater-shaped valley that provides shelter from winds and frost. At 800 meters facing north this feature allows thorough ripening. The 2013 is dark and strong with peppery spice, ripe, gripping tannins, and emerging young fruit. Have this deep, delicious red with some ribs and rice and beans.
Piedmonte
2011 Barbera d’Alba ‘Due Gelsi’ (Guidobono)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
2010 Langhe Freisa ‘Toetto’ (Mascarello)
Sale Price $21.99 – $224.30 case of twelve
This is our second visit from the ‘Due Gelsi,’ Guidobono’s bigger, richer Barbera d’Alba. The 2011 is showing ripe raspberry fruit, a touch of mint, and a hint of oak. Have this with a braised brisket and a pile of polenta.
The Freisa from Giuseppe Mascarello is a masterpiece. The Toetto vineyard is located at the top of their famous Monprivato Barolo vineyard. The vineyard was acquired in
1987 and planted entirely to Freisa in 1989. Freisa being an old Piedmontese variety and an actual parent to Nebbiolo, this is akin to a mini-Barolo from a bygone time. Mascarello treats it as such by aging the wine for fifteen months in medium-sized used Slovenian oak barrels. This results in a wine of fine-grained tannins, floral and tangy berry fruit, and a hint of pleasant bitterness on the finish. The medium weight of this gorgeous red leads us to consider it a fine wine to match with a seared rare salmon dish served on a bed of lentils.
Old and Older Rioja
2007 Rioja Reserva ‘Viña Alberdi’ (La Rioja Alta)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
2005 Rioja Reserva ‘Ardanza’ (La Rioja Alta)
Sale Price $31.99 – $326.30 case of twelve
La Rioja Alta continues to go from strength to strength. The 2007 Alberdi is their young Reserva. It is 100%
Tempranillo aged for two years in barrel and then kept at the winery until deemed ready for release. This vintage is smooth, retaining some primary fruit flavors that merge into the barrel-enhanced earthy dry character. The tannins remain in
the background, but keep the wine focused. Have this with a paella with chicken and clams.
Even though it’s two years older, the 2005 Ardanza acts like a younger wine than the 2007 Alberdi. A mix of Tempranillo (80%) and Garnacha, the wine spends 3 years in barrel. It was bottled in July of 2009 and released for sale in 2014. This sleepy wine takes a little time to open up, but when it does it is a blast of cherry fruit, ripe tannins, and a hint of barrel-fermented soy. Try this with a lamb stew and some gigande beans swimming in garlicky broth.
Listed prices are honored through January 14th, 2015. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 39, No. 2
A Village in the Rhone
2012 Côtes du Rhône Villages ‘Cairanne’ (Domaine Alary)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
If the village of Cairanne got a promotion from village status to full appellation it would be well deserved. We only hope it doesn’t happen because while the Alary Cairanne is not the least expensive Côtes du Rhône, it is one of the best
values. The 2012 is rock solid and worth every euro-cent. This is fruity, earthy, spicy, and overflows with olives and herbal flavors. Terrific with a long-roasted leg of lamb.
Terres de Pierres
2013 Mâcon-Villages ‘Terres de Pierres’ (Verget)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Challenging weather reduced yields all over Burgundy in the last three vintages, so prices have been rising. The good news is that the quality has been above average. The 2013 Mâcon-Villages ‘Terres de Pierres’ is loaded with crisp dry extract and precise apple and pear fruit. Roast a chicken, prepare a mustardy vinaigrette, toss a salad, enjoy.
Viura
2013 Rioja Blanco (Cortijo)
Sale Price $9.99 – $101.90 case of twelve
It seems to us that of late Rioja producers take their Viura vines more seriously. Even at the ten-dollar level this fresh white from Cortijo delivers a waxy texture, apricot fruit, and aromas of spring flowers. Great with a fish stew enlivened with parsnips.
A Cabin in the Woods
Smoked Imperial Brown Ale (White Birch Brewing)
Sale Price $6.99 per 22 oz bottle
Once again we were impressed with a Tavern Ale from White Birch Brewing of Hooksett, NH. This complex Smoked Imperial Brown Ale falls somewhere between a brown ale and a stout with a delicate smokiness that deliciously blurs the stylistic lines.
Specialty Foods
Der scharfe Maxx $21.99 per lb.
(Regular price $24.99)
A modern riff on Appenzeller from the Studer family of Thurgau, Switzerland, this cheese was born from the collapse of the Swiss Cheese Union, a government agency which subsidized the traditional cheese industry but did not encourage innovation. As the name suggests this cheese maximizes the best qualities of a mountain cheese: nutty and piquant yet creamy. Made with cow’s milk that has been Thermized, a gentler, lower-temperature process similar to Pasteurization.
Saint Géric $15.99 per lb.
(Regular price $17.99)
A slightly more adventurous French triple-crème with large
tubular blue veins, creamy and buttery, with a subtle punch.Try this if you love Saint Angel and you’re on the fence about blue cheese.
Agour Arpea $16.99 per lb.
(Regular price $18.99)
These petite washed-rind wheels of pasteurized sheep’s-milk cheese from the Basque region of France have a wonderful pudgy texture speckled with small holes, and a strong aroma reminiscent of French Munster.
Aged Mimolette $17.99 per lb.
(Regular price $19.99)
Once again available in the United States, Mimolette was created at the request of Louis XIV to replace the popular (but Dutch) Edam cheese. Aged over six months, it resembles a small boulder with a thick textured rind, the result of cheese mites which are intentionally introduced to add flavor by their action on the surface of the cheese. Made with pasteurized cow’s milk, the paste is a bright orange. The aged cheese has a flavor like hazelnuts.
Wines of the Month — January 15, 2015 through February 14, 2015
2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cousiño-Macul)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
Cousiño-Macul, long one of our favorite Chilean wineries, has produced a great value 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon. It combines ripe dark fruit and polished tannins into a seamlessly smooth red.
2013 Garnacha (Monte Oton)
Sale Price $7.99 – $86.29 case of twelve
Monte Oton’s 2013 Garnacha is a full bodied, intensely ripe, winter-strength red. Have this with a spicy chili.
2013 Gaillac Blanc (Grande Réserve des Bastides)
Sale Price $7.99 – $86.29 case of twelve
The great grapes of Gaillac deliver again. Loin de l’Oeil, Mauzac, and Sauvignon create a frisky dry white with a light natural spritz.
2013 Sangiovese Rubicone (Giovannini)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
This all-purpose Sangiovese succeeds with racy fruit and a crisp, dry finish.
Chandon de Briailles has excelled in the 2012 vintage. The Savigny village wine that we featured a few months back gushes with a purity of Pinot Noir fruit. Now we are on to the serious stuff. 
is a dark, ripe beauty with aromas of wood smoke, cherry fruit, and lean, lingering minerals. Gorgeous now, it can be cellared for another five years. Both the Pernand-Vergelesses are more tannic and closed compared to the Savignys. That said, they will deliver amazing results over the long term. 
Les Vergelesses is an earthy, dry delight with good gripping tannins. The Ile des Vergelesses is a mini Corton that is tightly wound with tannins and minerality today. This cuvée has a long proven track record for delivering authentic ageworthy Côte de Beaune.
2013 Rosso di Montepulciano (Dei)
2010 Médoc (Château Cailloux de By)
Bio Bio Valley Brut Sparkling Wine (Cono Sur)