Newsletter
May 17, 2024 – June 14, 2024
Brilliant Spring Whites
What better season to enjoy full-flavored dry whites than spring? Grab those bunches of farmer’s market asparagus, radishes, and the first greens of the year, check out the fish market, and have a healthy feast.
Vernaccia
2022 Vernaccia di San Gimignano
‘Tradizionale’ (Montenidoli)
Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve
Montenidoli is the name that has lasted and most resonates with Vernaccia di San Gimignano. Proprietress Elisabetta Fagiuoli is the force behind Montenidoli, an incredible Tuscan property that is more forest than it is vineyard. This all-organic winery makes Vernaccia that is dense with apricot and almond flavor. The 2022 Tradizionale is deeply colored and impressively rich. Great with grilled swordfish and a side of fiddleheads.
Gavi
2022 Gavi (Tenuta San Pietro)
Sale Price $15.99 – $163.10 case of twelve
Gavi is made in the southeast corner of Piedmont. For a time the area was under the control of the city-state of Genoa in Liguria, and it was in Genoa’s seafood restaurants that Gavi first became popular. The 2022 from Tenuta San Pietro is made with organically grown grapes. Its pear-like fruit and chalky minerality are perfect with linguine and clams with a shower of fresh herbs.
Ribeiro Has Risen
2022 Ribeiro Blanco (Coto de Gomariz)
Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve
Ribeiro, in Galicia, was Spain’s first internationally renowned wine region. Romans began by terracing the hills. Monks improved the winemaking and wine was traded profitably with England into the 16th century. Then the sinking of the Armada significantly reduced trade and Ribeiro’s fortunes turned sour. The 19th century’s bout of phylloxera nearly killed it as a wine region. It wasn’t until the 1980s, when producers replanted the hillsides with native grapes, that a market reemerged. Gomariz’s incredible flagship white is a savory blend of Treixadura, Godello, Albariño, and Loureira. A fine match with a lobster roll or crab cakes.
Volcanic Chardonnay
2022 Puy de Dôme ‘Lava’ (Volcans d’Auvergne)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
The Desprat family winery is located in central France’s Auvergne region, and is surrounded by a UNESCO World Heritage site due to its location in a chain of 80 extinct volcanos (Puys). Hence why they call their bone dry, un-oaked Chardonnay ‘Lava’. This fresh and earthy 2022 is our current best value in French Chardonnay. Ideal with a sautéed flounder and new potatoes.
Provençal Mountain White
2022 Ventoux Blanc (Domaine de Fondrèche)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
The wines of Fondrèche impress us with their balance and savory qualities. The rosé from last month’s newsletter is light, pale, and refreshing. This month’s white is packed with fascinating herbal and mineral flavors. The cool climate on the slopes of Mont Ventoux is responsible for the freshness of the Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Roussanne, and Rolle grapes. This inspired blend will pair well with a dish of new turnips and radishes along with their peppery greens.
Cazin’s Cheverny
2022 Cheverny (Le Petit Chambord)
Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve
The appellations of Cheverny and Cour-Cheverny may encompass the same area, but they are vastly different wines. Cour-Cheverny is restricted to just a few communes and can only use the rare Romorantin variety. Cheverny proper produces a crisp and aromatic blend of mostly Sauvignon Blanc combined with a dollop of Chardonnay. François Cazin excels at both. His Cour-Cheverny is deep and full (we recently tasted his 2021 and it’s excellent again). His fantastic value 2022 Cheverny is a distinctly Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc given a bit more body from the Chardonnay. Lovely with beets and goat cheese.
Listed prices are honored through June 14th, 2024. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 48, No. 6
The Granite State
2022 Morgon ‘Corcelette’ (Jean-Marc Burgaud)
Sale Price $21.99 – $224.30 case of twelve
Welcome back, Jean-Marc Burgaud, with another delicious Morgon. This time we have a 2022 from a sector of Morgon called Corcelette. This vineyard is laden with a decomposed pink granite soil, which gives the Gamay grapes silky tannins and juicy blueberry fruit. This gorgeous, crushable Cru is perfect for a grilled skirt steak with a spicy salsa.
Ardanza is Ready
2016 Rioja Reserva ‘Viña Ardanza’ (La Rioja Alta)
Sale Price $44.99 – $458.90 case of twelve
La Rioja Alta is one of the most traditional wineries of Rioja, and Viña Ardanza is one of their greatest ready-to-drink reds. What makes Ardanza different from their other Reservas is that they use 20% Garnacha to go along with the Tempranillo. It spends 36 months in barrel and then additional time aging in bottle, resulting in a wine that is smooth and drinkable upon release but can also age for another decade. The 2016 vintage is a great one in Rioja and this bottle is well worth the freight. Great with grilled lamb.
Biologico Classico
2022 Valpolicella Classico (Ca’ La Bionda)
Sale Price $15.99 – $163.10 case of twelve
Valpolicella producers have a lot of positives in their portfolios. They can use their grapes to make a fresh, everyday red. Then they have the option for a slightly more structured and rich Superiore. Next there is the juiced-up Ripasso, made by macerating dried grapes left over from Amarone production in fresh wine. Then Amarone itself. They even occasionally make a sweet red from dried grapes called Recioto. It takes a lot of skill to master all of these, but Ca’ La Bionda has done it while retaining its artisanal spirit. This month we have their freshest wine, a 2022 Classico made from organic grapes. Its bright berry fruit is beautifully balanced with juicy acidity. This is a chillable red that is lovely with fish.
Choice Rosés
The pink parade continues with these three delightful and different rosés.
2023 Savoie Rosé ‘Jardin d’Altitude’ (Domaine Carrel & Senger)
Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case of twelve
This is the same winery that we have promoted many times before, when they were known as Domaine Eugène Carrel. With the latest vintage a new co-owner is credited, but the real change in this rosé is that it is even juicier and more energetic. This Gamay/Mondeuse blend has a charming mélange of berry fruit and spring flowers. A great chiller with alpine cheese and spicy charcuterie.
2023 Rioja Rosado (Muga)
Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve
Rioja stalwart Muga has once again produced a delicious rosado. Their 2023 is a dry, gastronomic Garnacha with a good measure of fruit and tannin. Wonderful with multitudes of paella.
2023 Bandol Rosé (Dupuy de Lôme)
Sale Price $23.99 – $244.70 case of twelve
Dupuy de Lôme’s Bandol rosé is Provence personified. Scents of pine, rosemary, and lavender lead to mouth-filling peachy fruit and a cool, dry finish. Great with grilled fish.
Sale Dates
Announcing our second
Quarterly Sale of the Year
The sale begins Friday May 24th and runs through Sunday June 2nd.
Details: 10% off six bottles; 20% off twelve bottles.
Wines of the Month (back page),
fortified wines (Port, Sherry, Vermouth, etc.)
and sparkling wines may be included
for a 10% discount.
Blue tagged (NET) wines and
jug wines (1.5L and 3L) are excluded.
Amaro Amore
Amaro? We’ve got Amaro. More than we can list. These are a few favorites. Italian, of course.
Cocchi Dopo Teatro (Cocchi)
Sale Price $21.99 per 500ml
Cocchi’s Dopo Teatro is a Vermouth Amaro that refers to the late-evening after-theater culture of Torino. The base is a Vermouth di Torino with added bitter elements that include chiretta flowers and a local gentian. Serve chilled. It is also excellent with spicy chocolate.
Amaro dell’Etna
Sale Price $29.99 per 750ml
Sale Price $3.99 per 100ml
Twenty-six herbs and aromatic plants plus orange peels and rhubarb enliven this Sicilian Amaro. It’s a Mediterranean
volcano in a glass. The 100ml size is as cute as heck and perfect to smuggle into the Symphony.
Amaro Nonino Quintessentia
Sale Price $54.99 per 750ml
Nonino’s Amaro is legend. This is the Quintessentia. An impressively balanced mysterious Friulian distillate with kaleidoscopic flavors and myriad cocktail uses. It’s also good on its own with a single ice cube.
Specialty Foods
Raclette and Summer Cookouts Should be a Thing
Raclette de Savoie – Sale Price $15 per lb.
(Regular Price $20)
Schmidhauser – France
Entelbucher – Sale Price $18 per lb.
(Regular Price $24)
Gourmino – Switzerland
Black Truffle Raclette – Sale Price $24 per lb.
(Regular Price $32)
Jumi – Switzerland
Raclette has a long and cherished history as a cozy meal in both the alpine ski resorts of France and Switzerland as well as in the warmth of the home kitchen during cold winter evenings. While the thought of breaking with seasonal traditions may seem gauche to some (with a level of severity somewhere between using a dessert spoon for consommé and wearing houndstooth to the opera), this, dear reader, is America. It is almost expected that we will take the traditions of others and trample all over them in our own idiosyncratic manner. Before listing some of our favorite summertime uses for raclette, it is prudent to establish a basic understanding of what raclette is and how it is typically served.
Raclette is a traditional alpine cheese with a high moisture content, making it perfect for melting. The name raclette comes from the French racler (‘to scrape’), as a half wheel is traditionally heated on a specialized grill and the melted portion scraped directly onto a plate piled with accompaniments. In simple terms, it is basically taking a plate of anything that would be improved with a pile of melted cheese on it, and adding said cheese in quantities that would feel appropriate for the Iowa State Fair. With all that being said, here are our suggestions for summer serving.
Grilled Potato: Take a Russet potato (or any potato with a sufficiently thick and flavorful skin), rub with olive oil, and wrap in foil. Arrange a few around the outer edge of the grill and cook till soft, roughly an hour. This can also be done in advance. Carefully cut the baked potato into quarters, leaving the skin connected at the bottom. Place on the grill, skin-side down, with a healthy slice of raclette on top. Cover the grill until the cheese melts and the skin is crunchy. Remove and garnish with a sausage and grilled onions.
Black Truffle Burgers: The Black Truffle Raclette by Swiss producer Jumi lends itself particularly well to burgers. Start with 80% lean ground beef and add a dash of olive oil to the mix. This will seep out during grilling and cause a little flare up under your burger, giving a nice char without overcooking the center. Add a slice of the truffle raclette immediately after flipping to make sure it melts properly. Serve with a peppery green like arugula and a thin schmear of mayonnaise on the bun. It is best to keep your toppings simple and let the cheese do the work.
We want to hear from you about your summer raclette adventures! Tag us on Instagram @thewineandcheesecask
Wines of the Month — May 17, 2024 through June 14, 2024
2021 Western Cape Old Vine Cinsault (Tiger Horse)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
This South African red is savory and chillable, with spicy fruit and mellow tannins. Great for a roast chicken and salad.
2023 Pays d’Hérault Rosé (Moulin de Gassac)
Sale Price $8.99 – $97.09 case of twelve
Gassac once again delivers a beautifully balanced dry southern French rosé. A great warm weather match for cheese and charcuterie.
2023 Pays d’Oc Viognier/Sauvignon Blanc (Le Petit Balthazar)
Sale Price $7.99 – $86.29 case of twelve
Winemaker Pierrick Harang continues to offer incredible value. Petit Balthazar is a fresh and lively blend of
Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier.
2022 Côtes-du-Rhône (Les Carteresses)
Sale Price $10.99 – $118.69 case of twelve
This impressive Côtes-du-Rhône is full-flavored and
peppery. Try this with grilled sausages.
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